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Thistle17

NRG Member
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About Thistle17

  • Birthday January 1

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  • Website URL
    modelshipwrightguildwny.org

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northeast USA
  • Interests
    Research, kit (bashing), scratch, half hull modeling of period naval and 1800-1900 work boats.

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  1. Hello Alan. I have just been contacted by a private owner in Dansville NY that has a model of the Conrad. He wants to give it away. I was looking for a source for the ship's plans. Do you recall how you got them or if you would give me the contact info for the present receipent?

    Regrds Joe Lorenzo

    1. acaron41120

      acaron41120

      The ship Joseph Conrad is one of the two you can actually go on at the Mystic Seaport Museum in Mystic, Connecticut. Their museum web site is: mysticseaport.org. Check their museum shop/store for any plans they have. I make regular visits to their site as my favorite ship there (Charles W. Morgan) is next to the Conrad.

       

      Hope this helps,

      Allen

       

    2. Thistle17

      Thistle17

      Thanks Alan. I did look in their archive and saw no listing for her. I guess a direct call may be my only recourse.

      Joe

    3. acaron41120

      acaron41120

      Okay. Let me know what you find out!

  2. Ron I haven't tuned in for some time. Life events have diverted me. Not surpirised to see your work progress with exceptional execution. You continue to amaze me with your ability to work with hand tools! Joe
  3. Pete I stumbled on your build and it was a lucky find. very nice work. I have wanted to build the 12 1/2 haven for some time. I would like to doit scratch. Do you know of any plans out there that do not cost a fortune like the Wooden boast plans? Thanks Joe (Thisthle17)

    BTW any more progress on your build?

  4. Paul I plan to follow your build progress. I acquired the Florida Shapie Fishing Schooner that is recorded on this site. Panel #33 is where I finished off about a year ago. Still some rigging to do and a case. I acquired it from the estate of a fellow modler who found it in n antique shop about 5 years ago. The model is scratch and is done equistely so I am challenged to achieve the quality it deserves. David Bennett of the NC Museum sent me some pictures of rigging of models in his collection you may wish to study. The rigging of these vcessels is relatively simple but there are some gaff hauls that I have yet to find a home for since there are no logical termination points but at the masts. Joe
  5. I attendd a session of the Modelswrights of Niagara yesterday and was made aware of this procedure. I am about to go through this procedure on my Byrnes saw which was upgraded with the wider table top. I shared the very problems you all relate and I have a drawer full of tortured blades due to the misalignment of the fence. As I think back this all became a problem when the table top was replaced. Of course I was not aware of this procedure. I will feedback my experience for others. Joe
  6. I am sorry somehow I did not look close enough at themachining method as I seemed to think it was a laser. So another comment is that I had some blow out on the fback side of the material from the router cutter. I had to add some "face material to that side for those that became "cheeks" of gun ports. It turned out that the .015 material thickness deficit became a non problem when compared to the drawings as I used .015 AYC. Joe
  7. Welcome to the group 'Archie"! I too took the route of fabricating my own bulkheads and "strong back". However I chose a CNC router route. It did not go well for a number of reasons. A couple of cautions. I did not have the witness marks for the gun ports added in. I hand scribed them using the drawings. Are your bulkheads laser cribed? Secondly the drawings depict 1/4" bulkheads. The material I used was .015 thinner. Where this showed up was in the transom area. Chuck has cleverly designed the transom assembly parts so when assembled yield a well registered framework. Check your work carefully and if you go to "Stuntflers" build you will see he had to build out the last bulkheads to align correctly as they were .015 shy as well. These are just cautions that I learned the hard way. Joe
  8. You are a brave and determined heart! I too gave up on my first build of Winchelsea after too many compromises. I started with my own frames, strongback etc and although relatively sucessful error started to creep in and things went slowly downhill from there. I am poised to start again but your restart is impressive. I will surely follow your journey! Joe
  9. Indeed Gleen virtually impossible to get all the char off given the thickness of the stock and the "dwell" time of the laser. I too had to call it a day before i went too far. Joe
  10. Glenn on Cheerful I ganged 4 canonn wheels of like diameter on a screw of prpoer diameter. Placed a nut on screw end to secure them. I placed the wheels so that the "fatter" diameter of two wheels faced each other. Then I carefully but ever so lightly turned/sanded them on my lathe. The key is to keep the pairings together once removed. Worked fairly well. Joe
  11. You set the bar quite high Glenn. And I must compliment your photography once again. It compliments your model work so well. Joe
  12. Your deliberate and informative sharing has become an invaluable reference for all of us. And I might add your willingness to share set backs as well as successes is apppreciated. I can't tell you the number of "do overs" I have experienced that have slowed progress and dampened enthusiansim. So when I observe your end result I am encouraged to press on. I get the same encouragement from Bob Emser (The Art of Boat Building) by oserving his methods of work. Don't know how to pay you any better a compliment! Joe
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