Thistle17

It seems that it is in all our DNA to love ships! Welcome to this terrific and forum and re-entry into the world of modeling and research.

Joe

Victor welcome to the forum. Don't hide your work under a bushel. Get it out there!

Joe

Bryan:

As they used to say to me when I lived in Denton Texas (for a period of time) "Y'all gonna love it here!".

This was the wisest thing the NRG board did. There is so much rich and inspiring work within. Welcome to you!

Joe

Tom thanks for the heads up as I have not seen Keith's build. I will surely have a look see. I will be interested to hear your comments on the rig as ordered when it arrives.

Joe

Thank you all for the input to my last query. You all have been so helpful. I really appreciate all the advice!

Joe

I am wondering if any of the Micro Lux or Proxon accessories are compatible with the Sherline Mills. Its seems that some items like the hold downs and vise should fasten correctly but does anyone have experience with inter-changeability with some of the more sophisticated  accessories? My question is driven by cost alerts that others have offered in terms of accessories/attachments. Thanks.

Joe

For what it is worth, and if I recall correctly, when this occurred before it was due to the owner's full time work needs. In communications I gathered he was traveling (I think) for his company quite a bit. 

Cliff many thanks for your response. Unless something dramatic happens in the near future to sway me I have pretty much settled on the Sherline 5400 DRO machine. I will be purchasing one for the fall if all goes as planned. I ran across 2 sites that seem to offer free shipping and some dollars off on these machines. They are Blue Ridge Machines and Campus Discounts (I think). And yes I will have to go further with hold downs, vice, collets etc.

I was so impressed by the kids pictures! All too many of are young do not seem to have the interest in and willingness to learn these lifetime skills.

And again welcome to the forum!

Joe

Good info from you folk. I did find the brushes on-line for a decent price (under $25 including tax and shipping). I am going to try this route first and if that fails it will be a new motor or (at around $200) or send it back to Sherline. These brushes are rated at about 300 hours of run time. I have to believe that running at the highest speed of 10,000 RPM that might be a stretch claim. Anyone have any feedback on this?

Joe

Ron if you go to this web address you will see the Painting Tutorial.

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/26830

Joe

While going through the decision process I was offered the loan of an older Sherline Mill to try out. It is of vintage pre 1998 I think as it has the old motor style with internal brushes. When I fired it up I noticed it stuttered at low speeds. My guess is it needs new brushes and a commutator cleaning. Looking on the Sherline web site they give instructions how to do so. For a first time attempt at this, it doesn't come across as straight forward, needing a wheel puller and some minor hole drilling. I understand the newer motors have external brushes. So before I try it out I am going to give it a go.

There is always a "hill climb" before you get to the top!

Joe

Nice to have a new member and younger at that, that is always encouraging from a propagation of this splendid art form and pastime!

Assuming you have the basic skill base down and also the tools then you are likely to engage most model projects with confidence and likely good results. I would suggest that you consider the instruction set as a stating point. I am unfamiliar with Lumberyard plans and instructions. However I am familiar with Model Shipways and/or Syren instructions and plans. While I am not suggesting any source if you go on line and look at the PDF's for say the Model Ship Ways, Confederacy or look at Syren Ship Model company's Cutter Cheerful you will see what I consider the standard for instruction sets. Not strangely they are written by the same person, Chuck Passaro. Having said that, starting out anew it might be a good idea to look at Cheerful. It is a splendid model and  components (even the materials package) are available to you for the build. In addition this web site, under Scratch build has incredible logs of the process and they set a standard for good work.

Good and safe voyage Cliff.

Joe

As you may have picked up "humanizing" this project means so much to me. I just learned yesterday from a family member that my recently departed brother in-law and childhood buddy hurt his back for a life time of pain and limitation in Viet Nam. For you see he was a MASH unit surgeon assigned to one of the Special Forces encampments. His brother related that in pulling up a wounded solider from one of the water craft into a helicopter he over extended himself and ended up hurt for life. He was just out of school, in residency when he was pulled into service. I am told he saved many lives and limb. His name was Jim.

What are the chances it may have been a PBR? 

Pat as you observe ABS is a difficult material to adhere to. In terms of glue, I did find that the DAP Rapid Fuse, General Purpose worked well. I used it on the decking and even though the deck does flex the material has stayed put. I had to replace some decking due to thickness problems and the only thing that excavated the plank was a sharp chisel and carefully carving it out.This will be a static model so water, temperature swings and UV will not be problematical. I am curious about the rubberized CA though. Can you direct me to a manufacturer and identity?

In regard to painting, I am about to test paint the rudder so I will feedback the results.

So many voices, so much sage advice. Who could ask for more. I really value all your input. The 'voting" so far has the hands down favorite as  the Sherline, but Jim that Hardinge makes me drool. What a rare find!

To all, and once again, your comments and advice are so useful. It clarifies the "pivot point" for a model miller to be MONEY! The Sherline machine is the overwhelming choice of members for modeling projects. If I have other"marco"  applications maybe a larger bench top machine would be in order. I have never considered using the column to convert my Unimat to a milling device as I always discounted its capability. Given all comments and my needs I guess the wallet will have to open up more.

Your input is most welcome thank you. I will study these and others to come.

Joe

Over the years I have acquired a basic set of model making power tools. From way back when, I acquired a Unimat lathe and recently upgraded my saw and  thickness sander to Byrnes models. Big boy shop tools have helped fill in the gap for other operations.

I have been considering a vertical mill but I sense I am entering a "dark" area as I have little experience with them. The use would of course be for ship modeling but even a deliberate search yields a bewildering array of machines and pricing. I perceive my needs would be for milling brass, aluminum and of course hard woods. Variable speed of sufficient power, of course an appropriate X/Y table, an array of available accessories are the "must haves". The"nice to haves" list at this moment is small but I sense CNC adaptability might be in on that list. Price ceilings I would be around $1000.

In searching this site, and of course the web, I did come across some options but what I am looking for is a consensus or member recommendation of what manufacturer or direction to go. So any of you accomplished millers out there can you help me decide? 

I made a test sample of the bulkwarks and tried machining in the scuppers on my drill press. The results were less than pleasing so I have ordered a new Dremel and down spiral bit to mill them in. As I wait I decided to ready the hull for painting. The hull is not too bad in terms of finish but there was need to fill in the joint seams and the rudder receiver. I used Ever Coat Rage and sanded that down followed by Nitro Stan glazing compound in prep for wet sanding. I have searched the web for recommendations on the type of paint and one modeler's source speaks to Krylon works on ABS plastic. Needs more research.

Mind boggling! Thank you John!

You struck a cord with me, actually a number of chords. Keep doing what you are doing it is inspirational.

Joe

Chuck if you go to the web site for Model Railroader Hobbist Magazine and register you will be able to access a pretty amazing tutorial on painting. Its free for the download. Also the IPMS web site has some treatments on painting as well.

Joe

Standby Pat and as soon as we understand the process and route to document capture I believe Jim can relate that. Jim has a storied background in naval construction and was able to connect into resources not readily available to all. It was all done by the book, but it never hurts to have some "good old America know who" as well. 

I have been sitting on this news from Jim for a few days now. I felt it wasn't mine  to relate. Our original drawings were from Maryland and Silver (I think I have the source right) and they appear to be concept drawings. When looking at the photos folks have submitted we began to realize we needed more help.

This opens up a new vista for us to replicate this model for the museum. I am sure many of you would share in our excitement and gratitude to Jim for his dogged pursuit of authenticity. Jim is a recent new member of our group and his contributions are already felt. Thank you Jim!

Joe

I am fascinated by the model, its quality and execution. I do not know your background but you have an undeniable talent and you seem to be under no illusion or fear of failure. Just a beauty!

Joe