Thistle17

Got it! Indeed Leopard I should have done what you did. I guess what was throwing me off was what appears to be milling marks on the face of the large billet.
Joe

Paul the build is pretty staight forward because of the fine instructions. However read them very carefully as it is easy to misinterpret sometimes without going to and fro his build log, the drawings and his instructions. Some of his photos were taken at times a bit out of phase to when the instructions were written. For example I made the stern fashion pieces but did not paint them until after application because I forgot and was led astray by an accompanying photo (I did the wales correctly). So do excercise your own deliberate thinking.
 
Also I did not lay the deck planks from stern forward. I started at the bow because when i started the other way the runs were not long enogh to establish the needed symmetry as they were broken up by deck furniture.
 
When you get to the masts, yards and booms send me a PM and I can supply you with more info on how I did them. If you are a wood turner and have the equipment then my suggestions may not help.
 
Joe

Just tuned in to your build. I too am working on Cheerful. At this point I am working on all the sail parts masts, booms etc. I did not post my build as I wasn't sure how it was going to go. Some trial and error fixing of the planking until I slowed myself down and wasn't afraid to fit a plank a second time to get it right. Nonetheless she is a fun project full of subtle detail.
 
You are doing just fine!
Joe

You brought the model to life with your renditions of the figures. really nice work!
Joe

Forgive me Chuck, I have read and re-read your milling description and I am still wanting. In the first picture with the billet, is the grain running from L to R? If so then when you rip off a 1/4" sub-billet, say from that upper edge of the billet your "sub" billet has a clear face and the resulting planks are almost 1/4 sawn? Am I correct? And you can get the same results with cherry?
 
And in terms of bending is edge bending any more difficult?
 
Thanks.
 
Joe

I have never looked back having purchased this mill 2 years ago. Bill is so correct about the accessories especially the tilt table and the rotary table. Sherline has made these very utilitarian as some of the lathe accessories will work with the rotary table. I think it is a common lament that part capture on any mill, large or small is always problematical. This mill elevates my capabilities!
Joe

I have never looked back having purchased this mill 2 years ago. Bill is so correct about the accessories especially the tilt table and the rotary table. Sherline has made these very utilitarian as some of the lathe accessories will work with the rotary table. I think it is a common lament that part capture on any mill, large or small is always problematical. This mill elevates my capabilities!
Joe

After nearly 4 years of searching, I have finally received information on the identity of the model shown below. It was found in an antique shop in upstate NY by a member of the Modelshipwrights of Western New York much as it appears today. Sadly the member has died and I purchased it from his estate as it is a superbly built scratch model of faithful reproduction. I just could not let it fall by the wayside in the estate liquidation.
 
With the help of members of the Hampton Roads and New Jersey modelers group it was found in the National Watercraft Collection publication by Howard Chapelle. Plans (lines and deck layout) reside in the Smithsonian archives and I have requested a copy to support my restoration.
 
The pictures attached are from my cell phone and as I cannot call myself an amateur photographer they will have to do until I invest in better equipment. The pictures do not do justice to the quality of this model so I add further description.
 
The model is about 27 inches at the waterline with a breath of approximately 6 inches. Given the information in the National Watercraft Collection second edition it would be 1:24 scale as that seems to be the size of the full scale vessel or 55 feet (WL). She is constructed of boxwood.It appears to be fully ribbed internally. I might add that the model has some years of age as the wood has mellowed to a rich creamy  tan color. Everything about this model shouts it is the work of a master modeler. All planking, joinery, fittings, rigging and detail are flawlessly done. All deck fittings are scratch built from ferrous metal. All blocks and rigging treatment are of fine execution. The decking and planking is treated with simulated tree nails. The builder must have familiarized him or her self with construction details that can be found in Chapelle's e book, The Migrations of an American Boat Type, as they are so well reproduced in the model.
 
It needs some work, as in its travels some items are missing or in need of repair. These include some cabin and engine room hatches, the repair of the main well amid ship that has stared to come apart, rigging that needs repair or replacement and it sorely needs a new mounting and case.
 
I would like to document its restoration work for the sake of tje former modeler in hopes that someone out there may recognize her and possibly identify the person who built this fine model.
 
Work will begin when the Smithsonian plan shows up.
 
Joe

After licking my wounds on the terrible results of the ships wheel I have decided to make my own or at least try my hand at it. Using the one I made I took dimensions off the wheel and created a drawing suitable for replication. I did increase the diameter of the wheel a bit after sizing the one I made on the model. It was a tad smaller than what i would imagine. It will be checked out when the drawing finally arrives.
 
While I had the model out I managed to remove the hub of the missing wheel. I speculate the original modeler may have purchased one as the hub seemed at first glance to be a molded element. In addition it is an 8 spoked wheel rather than the 10 of the one I fabricated.
 
My appraoch to the fabrication attempt is as follows:
- Fabricate and glue 4 pieces of boxwood segments such that end grain will be minimized
- Laminate 3 overlapping layers with the outer 2 layers of thinner stock such that the glue joints are not aligned
- Mount this on my end mill and turn the outer diameter.
- Mount the turned element on my revolving table vertically to drill the 8 spoke holes
- Return the piece to its normal postion and mill the inner diameter but with tabs.
- The hub is somewhat problematical because of its dimuitive diameter and the need to drill 8 more aligned holes. That is going to take some thinking.
 
Now the spokes solution. I think I have found suitable 13mm belaying pins of the correct scale and length (Crafty Sailor) to use for the wheel spokes. We will see. I hope to have some fabrication photos along the way but will await the drawing to check my dimensions.
 
Do I have backup plan? Yes I do! Harbor Models has a wheel that appears to do the job if this fails.
 
Joe

Maybe I should rethink modeling and go back to bagging groceries as I did when I was a teenager! Just 2 months stem to stern David. You are driven.
Joe

Maybe I should rethink modeling and go back to bagging groceries as I did when I was a teenager! Just 2 months stem to stern David. You are driven.
Joe

Seventeen months later, where have i been! I am truly the last pony in this parade. Other projects and family life have just gotten in the way of any progress. I have just finished a major project for someone and now have to clear the decks of two and possibly three model projects (a restoration for someone, a restoration for myself and my Cheerful). But when I see the beauty of what you all are doing I feel a strong urge to "bring her down" and start the process. I need a plan or I will be logging a similar tale a year from now!

I have been ordering ahead even though I have yet to launch head first into this project as I am setting up an artist work area for my wife. We share a common work room and my wife has been patiently waiting for her area for far too long.
 
In any event I just received the full resin set of parts Syren offers. They are astounding in replication and detail. Although his supplier continues to work at improvements these are the best I have seen from any supplier to date.
 
Joe

A vice I will admit to is tools. I find myself asking "do I really need another tool" and often the answer is yes "I guess". Anyway for what it is worth I bought this Woodpeckers pocket square which is primarily intended to gauge the trueness of the business end of woodworking chisels. Obviously it is one of those tools one uses in the workshop less than often so it has wandered into my modeling tool chest. I have found it to be just the right size for a number of build applications. Here is another I found. I am installing the bulkheads from the middle out to stem and stern so it just requires the removal of the nearest neighbor to fit. The reliefs in each arm of the square allow me to use some of the clamps with lesser throat and it does wonders to square up the bulkhead while glue dries. Albeit a bit pricey it seems to do the job.
Joe

Thanks Chuck it feels good to be moving along albeit at a snail's pace. Again this is not a race but a journey.
I am determined to get this right!
Everyone on this forum whom has shared makes the journey so much more pleasurable.
Joe

Another milestone of sorts (at least for me given all the other things swirling around in my life). All of the bulkheads have been dry fitted on the former. It did take more fine tuning of the bulkhead slots as they were a bit undersized and I was looking for a slip fit. As I have learned in the past if this fit is not deliberate the bulkheads tend to twist about the keel center line which in turn leads to further difficulties when installing the gun port timbers.
 
In addition I would comment on the building board. I was intrigued by a group members approach to the build platform. I adopted Rusty J's method of the build board as I felt it served my needs better. I rebuilt the right angle supports a bit longer so that they could be clamped with my clamp stock. These supports are only used on the starboard side and the clamps ensure the assembly verticality (they needed some shim build out to achieve this). Thanks for the tip Rusty!
 
As I glue these in, starting amid ships, I will turn my attention back to Cheerful inboard/deck detail while the glue dries. This model has had little attention since the Spring and is begging for forward movement.
 
I will now proceed to where many of you have already gone. You all are an inspiration to me.
Joe

My progress reminds me of the sprinter who is the last off the blocks when the gun goes off. I finally received my 1/4 ply from National Balsa. It got lost in the delivery cycle but ultimately showed up at my door. I ordered 10 sheets and oddly they sent 12. It is all shrink wrapped so a quality inspection will soon be made. I guess they know I am prone to mistakes. Fabrication of the bulkheads should begin very soon.
 
My race metaphor is how I feel right now but I do understand this is not a race to the finish!
Joe

I will not clutter the forum with another rendition of bulkhead machining and keel build. Rather I will post the assembled skeletal structure and take it from there. Sufficient it to say that all bulkheads are machined as well as the false keel/former. As I assemble the Alaskan Yellow Cedar for the former supports I am forewarned that the laser char is going to be a problem in terms of keeping components clean. A good clean eraser doesn't really do it. I have had to sand them with 600 grit paper. I think I read or heard somewhere that a measure of control of the char is to give the AYC a surface coat of shellac or wiping varnish diluted. Any thoughts out there would be appreciated.
Joe 

Finally I am have been able to start this project with the focus and attention it is going to need. If you follow the scratch build forums I am also involved in building the Viet Nam era River Patrol Boat for the museum where we hold meetings. That project even with good drawings and photos has no guidance other than our combined sense of how to build it. I liken it to building "in the air" as one might build a tree house. In contrast this project is exacting and so well documented that one has to respect each and every step of the build. I did not purchase the bulkhead sub kit but started from the raw Lite ply. I assembled the former sections on a 1/2 plate glass that is longer than the former full length to ensure I got the truest assembly. Because of the quality of the ply it still had a slight cup. The bow section even had a bit of cup at its upper reach hence the "strong-back" temporarily clamped  across the body. This turned out to be a convenient location to add a clamp across the midsection of the stem which was sanded to conform as best as I could get it. Still I could perceive a very slight separation once fitted to the former. And as most of you know PVA glue is strongest when the wood surfaces are in good contact.
 
Joe

As we spoke at the NE Conference, this may be my last model build. It is difficult to say that but I have to be realistic about where I am in life. I can't imagine a more elegant subject to tackle.
 
As you requested Chuck, I enter the "waters" and make a commitment to build a Winchelsea of cedar and will want to build it from your modular or mini kit offerings starting with the "starter" installment. Given the human factors a scratch version is not practical for me.
 
Joe

Maybe I should rethink modeling and go back to bagging groceries as I did when I was a teenager! Just 2 months stem to stern David. You are driven.
Joe

Maybe I should rethink modeling and go back to bagging groceries as I did when I was a teenager! Just 2 months stem to stern David. You are driven.
Joe

Maybe I should rethink modeling and go back to bagging groceries as I did when I was a teenager! Just 2 months stem to stern David. You are driven.
Joe

Maybe I should rethink modeling and go back to bagging groceries as I did when I was a teenager! Just 2 months stem to stern David. You are driven.
Joe

I note from the date interval of your postings that things still may be a bit hectic for you on your outside duties. I have to believe this is an escape for you.
 
You were a subject of conversation with the NJ modelers group last night. The highlight speaker failed to show so Ryland brought up the 2014 NE Conference pictures and there you were! You make such an impression with your modeling everywhere.
Joe