Thistle17
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Thistle17 got a reaction from FriedClams in 28 foot American cutter by druxey - FINISHED - 1:48 scale
Your works are always so inspiring David! You set a high standard even for carving plugs for a model. Your productivity while maintaining the standard is also a wonderment.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Canute in Anyone use a 10" table saw for detail fine wood cutting?
Clogger I just can't bring myself to waste precious material by turning the kerf into saw dust. Having bought a boxwood billet recently (approximately 2 X 4 X 24) for $100 I find it a crime to cut that on conventional equipment even with a thin kerf saw blade. You would be better off cutting rough stock on a band saw and sending it through the Byrnes sander a few times as most of us do not have conventional wide belt thickness sanders in our shop.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from allanyed in Anyone use a 10" table saw for detail fine wood cutting?
Clogger I just can't bring myself to waste precious material by turning the kerf into saw dust. Having bought a boxwood billet recently (approximately 2 X 4 X 24) for $100 I find it a crime to cut that on conventional equipment even with a thin kerf saw blade. You would be better off cutting rough stock on a band saw and sending it through the Byrnes sander a few times as most of us do not have conventional wide belt thickness sanders in our shop.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from clogger in Anyone use a 10" table saw for detail fine wood cutting?
Clogger I just can't bring myself to waste precious material by turning the kerf into saw dust. Having bought a boxwood billet recently (approximately 2 X 4 X 24) for $100 I find it a crime to cut that on conventional equipment even with a thin kerf saw blade. You would be better off cutting rough stock on a band saw and sending it through the Byrnes sander a few times as most of us do not have conventional wide belt thickness sanders in our shop.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from mtaylor in Anyone use a 10" table saw for detail fine wood cutting?
Clogger I just can't bring myself to waste precious material by turning the kerf into saw dust. Having bought a boxwood billet recently (approximately 2 X 4 X 24) for $100 I find it a crime to cut that on conventional equipment even with a thin kerf saw blade. You would be better off cutting rough stock on a band saw and sending it through the Byrnes sander a few times as most of us do not have conventional wide belt thickness sanders in our shop.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Home made Drill Press Vise
Richard sometimes it is just as much fun to make a tool or jig! Nice work!
Having said that what I find that frustrates me is a device to hold my work piece that gets captured in the vise. I am constantly kludging something up to hold the part as the vise jaw depth is too deep or I need to reorient the piece or some such thing. It never seems to go away.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from mtaylor in Home made Drill Press Vise
Richard sometimes it is just as much fun to make a tool or jig! Nice work!
Having said that what I find that frustrates me is a device to hold my work piece that gets captured in the vise. I am constantly kludging something up to hold the part as the vise jaw depth is too deep or I need to reorient the piece or some such thing. It never seems to go away.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Canute in Home made Drill Press Vise
Richard sometimes it is just as much fun to make a tool or jig! Nice work!
Having said that what I find that frustrates me is a device to hold my work piece that gets captured in the vise. I am constantly kludging something up to hold the part as the vise jaw depth is too deep or I need to reorient the piece or some such thing. It never seems to go away.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Moab in Home made Drill Press Vise
Richard sometimes it is just as much fun to make a tool or jig! Nice work!
Having said that what I find that frustrates me is a device to hold my work piece that gets captured in the vise. I am constantly kludging something up to hold the part as the vise jaw depth is too deep or I need to reorient the piece or some such thing. It never seems to go away.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from RichardG in Home made Drill Press Vise
Richard sometimes it is just as much fun to make a tool or jig! Nice work!
Having said that what I find that frustrates me is a device to hold my work piece that gets captured in the vise. I am constantly kludging something up to hold the part as the vise jaw depth is too deep or I need to reorient the piece or some such thing. It never seems to go away.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS Winchelsea by rafine 1/48
Bob this pursuit has its own way of making oneself a harsh critic of their work. This forum offers us all superb references for "how to and perfection". It is both a blessing and a curse. In building Cheerful (which is still in process) I learned so much and have improved immensely. You are way ahead of me (maybe that is not a good reference point)!
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS Winchelsea by rafine 1/48
Bob your work inspires us all. Nice clean execution and progress. My work has stalled as i have wood shop projects "on the ways" that desperately need to be launched. I need to adopt your focus/mentality about this project.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS Winchelsea by rafine 1/48
Inspirational Bob! I just managed to get all my bulkheads completed yesterday and I have yet to build my build platform! So it seems "I have miles to go before I sleep". I will be tuning in to you for inspiration and guidance. Don't lose me in the dust!
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from FrankWouts in HMS Winchelsea by rafine 1/48
The enthusiasm for the project is not surprisingly, amazing. Definitely a worthy project and one well worth the effort Bob. Essex will have to wait. I for one will follow your journey.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from mtaylor in New to the site and starting out my hobby here
If one wants to expand one's knowledge and be inspired there is no better place than MSW. Learn from the masters and don't be dismayed by early work. You will get there.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Robp1025 in New to the site and starting out my hobby here
If one wants to expand one's knowledge and be inspired there is no better place than MSW. Learn from the masters and don't be dismayed by early work. You will get there.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from druxey in How to Make Mast Straps
I have used the pinstiping tape and it adheres quite well. However I am not aware that it can be found in flat sheen. If you locate such a product i would be interested to know.
I have used cresent paper with good success. Sharp cutting is required but it cuts well with little or no fuss. Gluing as you say can be problematical. I would think some diluted white glue painted on the back side might yield a good clean bond.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from Matt D in Planking the Qdeck and Fcastle of your Winnie....planning ahead
This is somewhat of a hybrid. featuring knees etc.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from mtaylor in Making frame drawings and its adoption to laser cutting
Kiyoo you are the consumate modeler, embracing modern technology, and maybe what is most remarkable is your willingness to share! i will send you a PM shortly.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from druxey in Making frame drawings and its adoption to laser cutting
Kiyoo you are the consumate modeler, embracing modern technology, and maybe what is most remarkable is your willingness to share! i will send you a PM shortly.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from mtaylor in Making frame drawings and its adoption to laser cutting
Kiyoo my experience with the results of the conversion (DXF to G code) taught me some lessons. For one, inside corners will always be rounded unlike laser processing. For outside corners the cutter has to go by the corner and return at the corner to have it come out square. As with laser machining there is always the feeds and speeds issue but the hardest lesson was that laser instructions seem to be much more forgiving in terms of path travel (we found arcs that were not continuous in the laser file that would not work in the CNC mode). Discontinuities in lines, arcs have to be "smoothed", nodes must be precise and so on. All in all i got my parts (for bulkheads and strongback) and they came out well. I believe you are absolutely correct that laser machining is the way to go. It would be the premier way if one could find a solution to char and the "slope" of the cut.
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from mtaylor in Making frame drawings and its adoption to laser cutting
Klyoo I have explored this arena (bringing today's technology to this pursuit, I worked with a colleague to convert laser DXF files to CNC G code, it was a real eye opener for me) but I pale in your light and work! Just outstanding. I await your completed treatment of the process but follow your good works.
Jooe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from CDR_Ret in Making frame drawings and its adoption to laser cutting
Klyoo I have explored this arena (bringing today's technology to this pursuit, I worked with a colleague to convert laser DXF files to CNC G code, it was a real eye opener for me) but I pale in your light and work! Just outstanding. I await your completed treatment of the process but follow your good works.
Jooe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from mtaylor in Help planking around the keel
Hugo I assume you have used the planking tutorials on this web site, namely within the forum you have posted. So one has to ask have you created/added a simulated rabbett on the bulkhead strongback (center element that runs along the keel). Have you carved out the stern area of this element (deadwood in a real keel) so that your planks will lay down flush with a later added stren post? At times some slight tapering of these planks is acceptable to have them lay correctly in the stern area. Does this help?
Joe
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Thistle17 got a reaction from thibaultron in How to Make Mast Straps
I have used the pinstiping tape and it adheres quite well. However I am not aware that it can be found in flat sheen. If you locate such a product i would be interested to know.
I have used cresent paper with good success. Sharp cutting is required but it cuts well with little or no fuss. Gluing as you say can be problematical. I would think some diluted white glue painted on the back side might yield a good clean bond.
Joe
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