Thistle17

You folk are so supportive! I appreciate your kind words.
All your works are inspiring and drive me on. It reminds me of when I was playing ball. I always wanted to play with those that were much better than I. It raised my game even though there were some hard knocks along the way.
Anyway I am nearly finished planking the port side up to the sheer after fine tuning the wales and of course removing my incorrect interpretation of the 2nd layer wales. So far with a little retuning of plank width milling I am coming out quite well. Imagine that!
Cutting out planking around ports is such an arduous and frustrating task. After more than a few plank discards I think it passes muster.
I am using this shop made plank clamp to hold strakes that have been premarked for cutout and then one by one carving out the port opening. A little sanding using a dummy port plug with 1/32 built out sides gets me in the game.
Joe

Trying again to make a log entry with photo(s).
 
I have completed the port side planking above the first layer of the wales. The whole effort was an experience in working with this new wood AYC, the model complexities and my relearned or new techniques.
 
Let me comment a bit about the material as I am a bit surprised no one has to date. Overall it is a good material to work with. It does have its own subtle characteristics beyond handling. In bending planking for the bow I did have a few planks shatter at their ends, even after heat bending on a form, at the bow. I suspect the billet end had dried out a bit. Cutting back the plank somewhat allowed usage elsewhere. The second more troubling but correctable problem with AYC I found is what I will term beam deflection tendency. Even with the closely spaced bulkheads it seemed in some cases to bow under the pressure of sanding. Not all planks, just some. The only solution I found was that I had to add a veneer backer across several planks internally to allow uniform sanding. It nevertheless is a easy wood to work with.
 
Well here is the port side planking progress in the attached photo. The first layer of wales recall was salvaged after too anxious a start (and incorrectly so) of the second layer. I did not attempt the rather complex planking "tabs" above and below the gun ports as I thought I was at the limit of my skills. Also it was evident all that difficult work, even if successful was going to be obscured by the frieze application.
 
Gun ports as many of you know, all 24 for a side are quite difficult. I had made a set of gun port plugs with a 1/32 frame around the perimeter that fit snuggly into each recess. The intent was to use them as a stop guide for the ensuing planking. For me, after a few attempts, they were abandoned. Any variation in match up to the banded perimeter became a glaring error when removed. It just shouted at you! To correct any of these early imperfections I ended up hand trimming the openings with a scapel and a guide as shown in the setup photo below. A metal rule with sand paper attached to the rear to add traction kept it in place along with the clamp. It was a  tedious, nerve racking effort but I was loathed to rip out yet more planking off.
 
After all that and with some manipulation of plank widths I ended up with the results shown. I was relieved the frieze tryout it came out correctly as can be seen in the stern area with its temporary placement.
 
Joe

You folk are so supportive! I appreciate your kind words.
All your works are inspiring and drive me on. It reminds me of when I was playing ball. I always wanted to play with those that were much better than I. It raised my game even though there were some hard knocks along the way.
Anyway I am nearly finished planking the port side up to the sheer after fine tuning the wales and of course removing my incorrect interpretation of the 2nd layer wales. So far with a little retuning of plank width milling I am coming out quite well. Imagine that!
Cutting out planking around ports is such an arduous and frustrating task. After more than a few plank discards I think it passes muster.
I am using this shop made plank clamp to hold strakes that have been premarked for cutout and then one by one carving out the port opening. A little sanding using a dummy port plug with 1/32 built out sides gets me in the game.
Joe

You folk are so supportive! I appreciate your kind words.
All your works are inspiring and drive me on. It reminds me of when I was playing ball. I always wanted to play with those that were much better than I. It raised my game even though there were some hard knocks along the way.
Anyway I am nearly finished planking the port side up to the sheer after fine tuning the wales and of course removing my incorrect interpretation of the 2nd layer wales. So far with a little retuning of plank width milling I am coming out quite well. Imagine that!
Cutting out planking around ports is such an arduous and frustrating task. After more than a few plank discards I think it passes muster.
I am using this shop made plank clamp to hold strakes that have been premarked for cutout and then one by one carving out the port opening. A little sanding using a dummy port plug with 1/32 built out sides gets me in the game.
Joe

You folk are so supportive! I appreciate your kind words.
All your works are inspiring and drive me on. It reminds me of when I was playing ball. I always wanted to play with those that were much better than I. It raised my game even though there were some hard knocks along the way.
Anyway I am nearly finished planking the port side up to the sheer after fine tuning the wales and of course removing my incorrect interpretation of the 2nd layer wales. So far with a little retuning of plank width milling I am coming out quite well. Imagine that!
Cutting out planking around ports is such an arduous and frustrating task. After more than a few plank discards I think it passes muster.
I am using this shop made plank clamp to hold strakes that have been premarked for cutout and then one by one carving out the port opening. A little sanding using a dummy port plug with 1/32 built out sides gets me in the game.
Joe

You folk are so supportive! I appreciate your kind words.
All your works are inspiring and drive me on. It reminds me of when I was playing ball. I always wanted to play with those that were much better than I. It raised my game even though there were some hard knocks along the way.
Anyway I am nearly finished planking the port side up to the sheer after fine tuning the wales and of course removing my incorrect interpretation of the 2nd layer wales. So far with a little retuning of plank width milling I am coming out quite well. Imagine that!
Cutting out planking around ports is such an arduous and frustrating task. After more than a few plank discards I think it passes muster.
I am using this shop made plank clamp to hold strakes that have been premarked for cutout and then one by one carving out the port opening. A little sanding using a dummy port plug with 1/32 built out sides gets me in the game.
Joe

You folk are so supportive! I appreciate your kind words.
All your works are inspiring and drive me on. It reminds me of when I was playing ball. I always wanted to play with those that were much better than I. It raised my game even though there were some hard knocks along the way.
Anyway I am nearly finished planking the port side up to the sheer after fine tuning the wales and of course removing my incorrect interpretation of the 2nd layer wales. So far with a little retuning of plank width milling I am coming out quite well. Imagine that!
Cutting out planking around ports is such an arduous and frustrating task. After more than a few plank discards I think it passes muster.
I am using this shop made plank clamp to hold strakes that have been premarked for cutout and then one by one carving out the port opening. A little sanding using a dummy port plug with 1/32 built out sides gets me in the game.
Joe

Welcome to the party Jim. I believe you will find this project both challenging and rewarding. There are plenty of build logs here to guide you along. I have used a number quite extensively. The key will be to sort out which to follow as there are many good ideas across the board.
You have already recognized the ordeal you will have in fairing the plywood you have chosen. yet it can be done with patience and deliberation. I too took an alternate path in the skeletal framing that fundamentally came out well but did have some trip points along the way. I would be glad to share them with you via the off line messaging sytem herein if you wish.
Joe

You are gifted Rusty! Your work always amazes me! Your photos along with others on this site, not only are of an instrcuctional nature to me they are truly inspirational.
 
Joe

Thanks Mike I will take the added step.
 
And Rusty I took a look at my Cheerful again this AM and three of the starboard planks which were a tad dark seemed to have darkened even more.The model is now about 3 years old. Port display appears to be in order.
 
Will the perfect model ever be in my reach?????
 
Joe

In touring the Stickley furniture factory, sometime back, it was related that in the finishing stage they apply a translucent base (in the case I saw it was on the order of an orange color on cherry). This tended to "flatten" the color variation across the surface. This can even be evident in the boards of the same tree. I am keeping my ripped  AYC for planking from the same blank together to minimize the problem. It was evident on my Cheerful.
 But I am sure you folk know that.
 
The "wetting" method given is indeed a good idea.
 
Joe 

In confering with Rusty this morning I now know I had read (and reread) the monolog incorrectly. Sometimes information sequency or at times too much information can lead to incorrect interpretation. Nonetheless I own the error.
 
I updated my drawing to reflect the correct interpretation of the wales. So I will deconstruct what I have done and finish the 3/64" planking above the wales and at least the two lower strakes below the wales.
 
Joe
Wales.draw (1).pptx

Maybe it is time for me to call a 'time out" on myself. I had quite a time milling my 1/64, 2nd layer wales stock until I took the time to set up the saw with a new blade. modify my cut off jig to work on my larger table top. Then and only then was I able to fine tune the strakes to the desired thickness. To make the story a tad longer I found I was eating up the cut strakes a bit getting the butt placement so I was hesitant moving
the setup until I understood the consumption. Hence the start of the top black strake. I now realize that I will need to sand the black strakes a bit so indeed it was only a good idea to do only the edges with the pro Marker. I will either rip it off or finesse that one in place and return to the regimine layed out.
 
Joe
 
 

Your work and results through your photos tell it all Glenn! May i ask what camera are you using?
Joe

Thanks Bob! It has actually turned out to be quite functional just for the table top and working on Winchelsea. I just ordered some shop wheels that are low profile that will also give me a bit more outboard stability when rotating the top to the lathe function. It is well balanced and stays at rest when the locks are open but there is quite a bit of rotational imbalance when it is rotating to the lathe function.
Joe

That can be a problem Keith. I am thinking of puttingup  a detachable surround when the lathe configuration is needed. It would be a bit much to bring up the shop vac to deal with the dust. Might even trip my banishment back to the basement if I am not careful.
 
Joe

Although I have an adequate woodworking shop I have never thought of it as a model building area, The basement humidity control, lighting, warmth and isolation is too much of a "monastic life" in my way of thinking. So I moved to the first floor in a studio like environment shared by our computer and my wife's art works. The drawback is that the space is not large and keeping it tidy is always a challenge. It became more of a problem when I started Winchelsea. My lathe and mill have been moved to the floor under my desk/workbench when idle. This has been a "get by" solution for about a year.
 
Enclosed are 2 photos of my solution for the lathe that I "stole" from a woodworking shop article I recently came across. Also to build the Winchelsea, which is almost 36 inches in length, I had clamped an extension to my  desk area which was an accident waiting to happen. So I merged the 2 thoughts into the solution shown.
 
The cart or table has a flip or pivoting top that will normally be configured as a work table. Bolt latches lock the top in either position. Pivoting the top allows me to use the lathe and "put it away" when not needed. The 2 drawers beneath house all the lathe accessories and also help lower the center of gravity of the assembly when the lathe is upright. When not supporting the model 40% of the unit can tuck under the desk. The whole unit is on casters so it came be easily moved about. The exterior is covered in matte black formica and trimmed in maple.
 
I plan to make a second unit for the mill.
 
Joe
 
 

In confering with Rusty this morning I now know I had read (and reread) the monolog incorrectly. Sometimes information sequency or at times too much information can lead to incorrect interpretation. Nonetheless I own the error.
 
I updated my drawing to reflect the correct interpretation of the wales. So I will deconstruct what I have done and finish the 3/64" planking above the wales and at least the two lower strakes below the wales.
 
Joe
Wales.draw (1).pptx

Although I have an adequate woodworking shop I have never thought of it as a model building area, The basement humidity control, lighting, warmth and isolation is too much of a "monastic life" in my way of thinking. So I moved to the first floor in a studio like environment shared by our computer and my wife's art works. The drawback is that the space is not large and keeping it tidy is always a challenge. It became more of a problem when I started Winchelsea. My lathe and mill have been moved to the floor under my desk/workbench when idle. This has been a "get by" solution for about a year.
 
Enclosed are 2 photos of my solution for the lathe that I "stole" from a woodworking shop article I recently came across. Also to build the Winchelsea, which is almost 36 inches in length, I had clamped an extension to my  desk area which was an accident waiting to happen. So I merged the 2 thoughts into the solution shown.
 
The cart or table has a flip or pivoting top that will normally be configured as a work table. Bolt latches lock the top in either position. Pivoting the top allows me to use the lathe and "put it away" when not needed. The 2 drawers beneath house all the lathe accessories and also help lower the center of gravity of the assembly when the lathe is upright. When not supporting the model 40% of the unit can tuck under the desk. The whole unit is on casters so it came be easily moved about. The exterior is covered in matte black formica and trimmed in maple.
 
I plan to make a second unit for the mill.
 
Joe
 
 

Thanks Bob! It has actually turned out to be quite functional just for the table top and working on Winchelsea. I just ordered some shop wheels that are low profile that will also give me a bit more outboard stability when rotating the top to the lathe function. It is well balanced and stays at rest when the locks are open but there is quite a bit of rotational imbalance when it is rotating to the lathe function.
Joe

Although I have an adequate woodworking shop I have never thought of it as a model building area, The basement humidity control, lighting, warmth and isolation is too much of a "monastic life" in my way of thinking. So I moved to the first floor in a studio like environment shared by our computer and my wife's art works. The drawback is that the space is not large and keeping it tidy is always a challenge. It became more of a problem when I started Winchelsea. My lathe and mill have been moved to the floor under my desk/workbench when idle. This has been a "get by" solution for about a year.
 
Enclosed are 2 photos of my solution for the lathe that I "stole" from a woodworking shop article I recently came across. Also to build the Winchelsea, which is almost 36 inches in length, I had clamped an extension to my  desk area which was an accident waiting to happen. So I merged the 2 thoughts into the solution shown.
 
The cart or table has a flip or pivoting top that will normally be configured as a work table. Bolt latches lock the top in either position. Pivoting the top allows me to use the lathe and "put it away" when not needed. The 2 drawers beneath house all the lathe accessories and also help lower the center of gravity of the assembly when the lathe is upright. When not supporting the model 40% of the unit can tuck under the desk. The whole unit is on casters so it came be easily moved about. The exterior is covered in matte black formica and trimmed in maple.
 
I plan to make a second unit for the mill.
 
Joe
 
 

Thanks Bob! It has actually turned out to be quite functional just for the table top and working on Winchelsea. I just ordered some shop wheels that are low profile that will also give me a bit more outboard stability when rotating the top to the lathe function. It is well balanced and stays at rest when the locks are open but there is quite a bit of rotational imbalance when it is rotating to the lathe function.
Joe

Thanks Bob! It has actually turned out to be quite functional just for the table top and working on Winchelsea. I just ordered some shop wheels that are low profile that will also give me a bit more outboard stability when rotating the top to the lathe function. It is well balanced and stays at rest when the locks are open but there is quite a bit of rotational imbalance when it is rotating to the lathe function.
Joe

Although I have an adequate woodworking shop I have never thought of it as a model building area, The basement humidity control, lighting, warmth and isolation is too much of a "monastic life" in my way of thinking. So I moved to the first floor in a studio like environment shared by our computer and my wife's art works. The drawback is that the space is not large and keeping it tidy is always a challenge. It became more of a problem when I started Winchelsea. My lathe and mill have been moved to the floor under my desk/workbench when idle. This has been a "get by" solution for about a year.
 
Enclosed are 2 photos of my solution for the lathe that I "stole" from a woodworking shop article I recently came across. Also to build the Winchelsea, which is almost 36 inches in length, I had clamped an extension to my  desk area which was an accident waiting to happen. So I merged the 2 thoughts into the solution shown.
 
The cart or table has a flip or pivoting top that will normally be configured as a work table. Bolt latches lock the top in either position. Pivoting the top allows me to use the lathe and "put it away" when not needed. The 2 drawers beneath house all the lathe accessories and also help lower the center of gravity of the assembly when the lathe is upright. When not supporting the model 40% of the unit can tuck under the desk. The whole unit is on casters so it came be easily moved about. The exterior is covered in matte black formica and trimmed in maple.
 
I plan to make a second unit for the mill.
 
Joe
 
 

Thanks Bob! It has actually turned out to be quite functional just for the table top and working on Winchelsea. I just ordered some shop wheels that are low profile that will also give me a bit more outboard stability when rotating the top to the lathe function. It is well balanced and stays at rest when the locks are open but there is quite a bit of rotational imbalance when it is rotating to the lathe function.
Joe