Thistle17

Although I have an adequate woodworking shop I have never thought of it as a model building area, The basement humidity control, lighting, warmth and isolation is too much of a "monastic life" in my way of thinking. So I moved to the first floor in a studio like environment shared by our computer and my wife's art works. The drawback is that the space is not large and keeping it tidy is always a challenge. It became more of a problem when I started Winchelsea. My lathe and mill have been moved to the floor under my desk/workbench when idle. This has been a "get by" solution for about a year.
 
Enclosed are 2 photos of my solution for the lathe that I "stole" from a woodworking shop article I recently came across. Also to build the Winchelsea, which is almost 36 inches in length, I had clamped an extension to my  desk area which was an accident waiting to happen. So I merged the 2 thoughts into the solution shown.
 
The cart or table has a flip or pivoting top that will normally be configured as a work table. Bolt latches lock the top in either position. Pivoting the top allows me to use the lathe and "put it away" when not needed. The 2 drawers beneath house all the lathe accessories and also help lower the center of gravity of the assembly when the lathe is upright. When not supporting the model 40% of the unit can tuck under the desk. The whole unit is on casters so it came be easily moved about. The exterior is covered in matte black formica and trimmed in maple.
 
I plan to make a second unit for the mill.
 
Joe
 
 

Thanks Bob! It has actually turned out to be quite functional just for the table top and working on Winchelsea. I just ordered some shop wheels that are low profile that will also give me a bit more outboard stability when rotating the top to the lathe function. It is well balanced and stays at rest when the locks are open but there is quite a bit of rotational imbalance when it is rotating to the lathe function.
Joe

Although I have an adequate woodworking shop I have never thought of it as a model building area, The basement humidity control, lighting, warmth and isolation is too much of a "monastic life" in my way of thinking. So I moved to the first floor in a studio like environment shared by our computer and my wife's art works. The drawback is that the space is not large and keeping it tidy is always a challenge. It became more of a problem when I started Winchelsea. My lathe and mill have been moved to the floor under my desk/workbench when idle. This has been a "get by" solution for about a year.
 
Enclosed are 2 photos of my solution for the lathe that I "stole" from a woodworking shop article I recently came across. Also to build the Winchelsea, which is almost 36 inches in length, I had clamped an extension to my  desk area which was an accident waiting to happen. So I merged the 2 thoughts into the solution shown.
 
The cart or table has a flip or pivoting top that will normally be configured as a work table. Bolt latches lock the top in either position. Pivoting the top allows me to use the lathe and "put it away" when not needed. The 2 drawers beneath house all the lathe accessories and also help lower the center of gravity of the assembly when the lathe is upright. When not supporting the model 40% of the unit can tuck under the desk. The whole unit is on casters so it came be easily moved about. The exterior is covered in matte black formica and trimmed in maple.
 
I plan to make a second unit for the mill.
 
Joe
 
 

Although I have an adequate woodworking shop I have never thought of it as a model building area, The basement humidity control, lighting, warmth and isolation is too much of a "monastic life" in my way of thinking. So I moved to the first floor in a studio like environment shared by our computer and my wife's art works. The drawback is that the space is not large and keeping it tidy is always a challenge. It became more of a problem when I started Winchelsea. My lathe and mill have been moved to the floor under my desk/workbench when idle. This has been a "get by" solution for about a year.
 
Enclosed are 2 photos of my solution for the lathe that I "stole" from a woodworking shop article I recently came across. Also to build the Winchelsea, which is almost 36 inches in length, I had clamped an extension to my  desk area which was an accident waiting to happen. So I merged the 2 thoughts into the solution shown.
 
The cart or table has a flip or pivoting top that will normally be configured as a work table. Bolt latches lock the top in either position. Pivoting the top allows me to use the lathe and "put it away" when not needed. The 2 drawers beneath house all the lathe accessories and also help lower the center of gravity of the assembly when the lathe is upright. When not supporting the model 40% of the unit can tuck under the desk. The whole unit is on casters so it came be easily moved about. The exterior is covered in matte black formica and trimmed in maple.
 
I plan to make a second unit for the mill.
 
Joe
 
 

I learn so much from other, reading posts and confering with those that have advanced before me. Truly a gift!
 
After completing the wales first layer on both sides, I was anxious to try my hand at the second layer. Stuntflyer coached me through the process and I must admit it is quite straight forward. One justhas  to progress slowly and deliberately. Mike's "stops" to align the black strake at the top is such a simple but effective measure. I colored the top edge with a Winsor Newton Pro Marker, XB Black, rather than paint it with acrylic so as not to have paint build up on the back side. Since the strake from the bow was too short I 'buried a butt joint under the anchor lining and then continued on to follow the pattern.
 
That void in the first layer wales at 'G' I caught too late. It is such a smooth run that breaking the joint and reclamping I anticipate will foul me up with the lower planking. So I made the wales strakes just a tad wider than the 7/32" so the second layer will over lap by just a tad.
 
Joe

The purpose of this post is more of a personal nature than news worthy to others. With my committment to the Mark I PBR completed I can be more focused on this project. Today I milled the wales first layer planking out of AYC that I happened to have. After confering with the "master' it was suggested I use other than the stock supplied as future need may arise.
 
The wales have been carefully aligned (even checking the P/S height to ensure symmetry after slight adjustment). So now I am ready to start and this post is a marker to see how long this is going to take.
Joe

I learn so much from other, reading posts and confering with those that have advanced before me. Truly a gift!
 
After completing the wales first layer on both sides, I was anxious to try my hand at the second layer. Stuntflyer coached me through the process and I must admit it is quite straight forward. One justhas  to progress slowly and deliberately. Mike's "stops" to align the black strake at the top is such a simple but effective measure. I colored the top edge with a Winsor Newton Pro Marker, XB Black, rather than paint it with acrylic so as not to have paint build up on the back side. Since the strake from the bow was too short I 'buried a butt joint under the anchor lining and then continued on to follow the pattern.
 
That void in the first layer wales at 'G' I caught too late. It is such a smooth run that breaking the joint and reclamping I anticipate will foul me up with the lower planking. So I made the wales strakes just a tad wider than the 7/32" so the second layer will over lap by just a tad.
 
Joe

I learn so much from other, reading posts and confering with those that have advanced before me. Truly a gift!
 
After completing the wales first layer on both sides, I was anxious to try my hand at the second layer. Stuntflyer coached me through the process and I must admit it is quite straight forward. One justhas  to progress slowly and deliberately. Mike's "stops" to align the black strake at the top is such a simple but effective measure. I colored the top edge with a Winsor Newton Pro Marker, XB Black, rather than paint it with acrylic so as not to have paint build up on the back side. Since the strake from the bow was too short I 'buried a butt joint under the anchor lining and then continued on to follow the pattern.
 
That void in the first layer wales at 'G' I caught too late. It is such a smooth run that breaking the joint and reclamping I anticipate will foul me up with the lower planking. So I made the wales strakes just a tad wider than the 7/32" so the second layer will over lap by just a tad.
 
Joe

Today was a banner day for the Mark I River Patrol Boat. All the detail and touch was completed save the mounts for the starboard and port guns. This is an easy addition and was taken off line to complete. Note that the canpoy framing has been added. So too with the radar dome, the mast beacon, the rear 50 caliber, boat hook and bilge hand pump.
 
The photos were taken in a hallway as we had to find a suitable backdrop outside the workshop. Doing so does give one the impression it is a small model. I remind all that it is over 5 feet long.
 
A build out discussion will be presented to the group on 1/19 at &PM. It will be streamed so interested parties can message me prior to tune in.
 
Joe

Thank you Canute. It was a journey to get here Covid isolation and all. Happy it is done and I will post a final photo when the diorama is finished by the museum staff.
 
Joe

Today was a banner day for the Mark I River Patrol Boat. All the detail and touch was completed save the mounts for the starboard and port guns. This is an easy addition and was taken off line to complete. Note that the canpoy framing has been added. So too with the radar dome, the mast beacon, the rear 50 caliber, boat hook and bilge hand pump.
 
The photos were taken in a hallway as we had to find a suitable backdrop outside the workshop. Doing so does give one the impression it is a small model. I remind all that it is over 5 feet long.
 
A build out discussion will be presented to the group on 1/19 at &PM. It will be streamed so interested parties can message me prior to tune in.
 
Joe

Although I have an adequate woodworking shop I have never thought of it as a model building area, The basement humidity control, lighting, warmth and isolation is too much of a "monastic life" in my way of thinking. So I moved to the first floor in a studio like environment shared by our computer and my wife's art works. The drawback is that the space is not large and keeping it tidy is always a challenge. It became more of a problem when I started Winchelsea. My lathe and mill have been moved to the floor under my desk/workbench when idle. This has been a "get by" solution for about a year.
 
Enclosed are 2 photos of my solution for the lathe that I "stole" from a woodworking shop article I recently came across. Also to build the Winchelsea, which is almost 36 inches in length, I had clamped an extension to my  desk area which was an accident waiting to happen. So I merged the 2 thoughts into the solution shown.
 
The cart or table has a flip or pivoting top that will normally be configured as a work table. Bolt latches lock the top in either position. Pivoting the top allows me to use the lathe and "put it away" when not needed. The 2 drawers beneath house all the lathe accessories and also help lower the center of gravity of the assembly when the lathe is upright. When not supporting the model 40% of the unit can tuck under the desk. The whole unit is on casters so it came be easily moved about. The exterior is covered in matte black formica and trimmed in maple.
 
I plan to make a second unit for the mill.
 
Joe
 
 

Your work and results through your photos tell it all Glenn! May i ask what camera are you using?
Joe

That can be a problem Keith. I am thinking of puttingup  a detachable surround when the lathe configuration is needed. It would be a bit much to bring up the shop vac to deal with the dust. Might even trip my banishment back to the basement if I am not careful.
 
Joe

That can be a problem Keith. I am thinking of puttingup  a detachable surround when the lathe configuration is needed. It would be a bit much to bring up the shop vac to deal with the dust. Might even trip my banishment back to the basement if I am not careful.
 
Joe

Although I have an adequate woodworking shop I have never thought of it as a model building area, The basement humidity control, lighting, warmth and isolation is too much of a "monastic life" in my way of thinking. So I moved to the first floor in a studio like environment shared by our computer and my wife's art works. The drawback is that the space is not large and keeping it tidy is always a challenge. It became more of a problem when I started Winchelsea. My lathe and mill have been moved to the floor under my desk/workbench when idle. This has been a "get by" solution for about a year.
 
Enclosed are 2 photos of my solution for the lathe that I "stole" from a woodworking shop article I recently came across. Also to build the Winchelsea, which is almost 36 inches in length, I had clamped an extension to my  desk area which was an accident waiting to happen. So I merged the 2 thoughts into the solution shown.
 
The cart or table has a flip or pivoting top that will normally be configured as a work table. Bolt latches lock the top in either position. Pivoting the top allows me to use the lathe and "put it away" when not needed. The 2 drawers beneath house all the lathe accessories and also help lower the center of gravity of the assembly when the lathe is upright. When not supporting the model 40% of the unit can tuck under the desk. The whole unit is on casters so it came be easily moved about. The exterior is covered in matte black formica and trimmed in maple.
 
I plan to make a second unit for the mill.
 
Joe
 
 

Thank you Canute. It was a journey to get here Covid isolation and all. Happy it is done and I will post a final photo when the diorama is finished by the museum staff.
 
Joe

Thank you for the recognition. I must reiterate it was a group effort by 6 people but in the last year it was just 3 of us.
Joe

Today was a banner day for the Mark I River Patrol Boat. All the detail and touch was completed save the mounts for the starboard and port guns. This is an easy addition and was taken off line to complete. Note that the canpoy framing has been added. So too with the radar dome, the mast beacon, the rear 50 caliber, boat hook and bilge hand pump.
 
The photos were taken in a hallway as we had to find a suitable backdrop outside the workshop. Doing so does give one the impression it is a small model. I remind all that it is over 5 feet long.
 
A build out discussion will be presented to the group on 1/19 at &PM. It will be streamed so interested parties can message me prior to tune in.
 
Joe

Thank you Canute. It was a journey to get here Covid isolation and all. Happy it is done and I will post a final photo when the diorama is finished by the museum staff.
 
Joe

Today was a banner day for the Mark I River Patrol Boat. All the detail and touch was completed save the mounts for the starboard and port guns. This is an easy addition and was taken off line to complete. Note that the canpoy framing has been added. So too with the radar dome, the mast beacon, the rear 50 caliber, boat hook and bilge hand pump.
 
The photos were taken in a hallway as we had to find a suitable backdrop outside the workshop. Doing so does give one the impression it is a small model. I remind all that it is over 5 feet long.
 
A build out discussion will be presented to the group on 1/19 at &PM. It will be streamed so interested parties can message me prior to tune in.
 
Joe

Thank you for the recognition. I must reiterate it was a group effort by 6 people but in the last year it was just 3 of us.
Joe

Today was a banner day for the Mark I River Patrol Boat. All the detail and touch was completed save the mounts for the starboard and port guns. This is an easy addition and was taken off line to complete. Note that the canpoy framing has been added. So too with the radar dome, the mast beacon, the rear 50 caliber, boat hook and bilge hand pump.
 
The photos were taken in a hallway as we had to find a suitable backdrop outside the workshop. Doing so does give one the impression it is a small model. I remind all that it is over 5 feet long.
 
A build out discussion will be presented to the group on 1/19 at &PM. It will be streamed so interested parties can message me prior to tune in.
 
Joe

The purpose of this post is more of a personal nature than news worthy to others. With my committment to the Mark I PBR completed I can be more focused on this project. Today I milled the wales first layer planking out of AYC that I happened to have. After confering with the "master' it was suggested I use other than the stock supplied as future need may arise.
 
The wales have been carefully aligned (even checking the P/S height to ensure symmetry after slight adjustment). So now I am ready to start and this post is a marker to see how long this is going to take.
Joe

The purpose of this post is more of a personal nature than news worthy to others. With my committment to the Mark I PBR completed I can be more focused on this project. Today I milled the wales first layer planking out of AYC that I happened to have. After confering with the "master' it was suggested I use other than the stock supplied as future need may arise.
 
The wales have been carefully aligned (even checking the P/S height to ensure symmetry after slight adjustment). So now I am ready to start and this post is a marker to see how long this is going to take.
Joe