davyboy

@håkan, @Jim Lad, @Mirabell61, many thanks!
To all that hit the like button, many thanks as well!
 
A bit more work done, I feel I understand the boat better now.
I made the frame for the fish well, needs its veneer to be added on.
I also added most of the inner planking on the starboard side. It went really well, I only had to spill the aft part of the lower plank. There is a bit more planking left to do towards the bow. Screwing and drilling at such angles is pretty difficult, mainly at the bow. 

I also cut a piece of wood for the breasthook/small deck, it will be sanded curved later on after the sheer shelf is added.

The inner planking is maple, so will be much easier to sand than beech. At 1 mm thick it allowed generous edge bending but I do need to be careful when sanding.
 
Vaddoc

As the weather has been nice over the last two weeks, I've swapped my little shipyard for my bike. As a result, I haven't got as far as I had planned.

As I wrote in the last part, I want to try a different technique for the after deadwood, especially to avoid milling on both sides. Firstly, the individual components of the deadwood are milled once with the correct side and once mirrored. In order to be able to glue the two sides together later, recesses are milled into which fitting pieces are glued before gluing them together.

The next picture shows the components removed from the board and trimmed.

Before gluing them together, a few small curves that inevitably result from the milling cutter must be removed. I do this with my little Proxxon.

The last picture shows the individual components after gluing them together.

A weak point became apparent when machining the parts. The direction of the wood grain of the tabs, which are used to position the finished component on the keel, follows the overall part. It would have been better to mill the tabs separately and rotate the grain by 90°. This would have made the components much less susceptible to breakage.

In the next part of the report, both sides of the deadwood parts will be milled and the deadwood glued together.

Greg convinced me!!!  I also spent a great deal of time looking at the contemporary model.   I also decided to coper the top of the doorway.  It just made sense to do that.   I painted a plain piece of paper with the copper paint and cut a narrow strip.  This allowed me to leave a nice neat edge on the front of the bulkhead.  I left just a 1/64" of the top showing so it looks like molding around the doorway.  I am sure I will get used it over time.
 


 
 

Low fore-mast OK (1712 / 2990 knots = 57% done)

Here are two photos of the second version which I made.  This one is finished with copper paint and sprayed with dull coat.   The copper paint was just from one of those copper leafing pens.  It worked really well actually.   This was my best result with the copper attempts.   I havent glued the cupola on yet so I can keep trying both and pick the one I like best.   
 

Post One Hundred and Fifty- seven
 
Mast Making.
Starting with the Mainmast:-
For the reduced height masts I firstly need to work out the relative positions of the wooldings, iron bands, and the point where the side cheeks and front fish terminate.

3967
I replaced the Pear laser cut cheeks and fish with Boxwood versions to better match the Ramin masts.
 
The iron bands need to be fitted before the cheeks are put into place. With a 12mm ø mast my go to use of heat shrink tubing will not work, so it’s back to thin strips of black card.
 
Once the cheeks are fitted the remaining iron bands need to be applied, they sit beneath the Front fish. I work the bands so that the join will also be beneath the Fish.

3970
The Fish is then fitted

3972

3973

3974

3976

3977
The saddle for the Driver Boom was also replaced with a Boxwood version.

3978

3971
The woolding remains to be done, but I am out of the correct line sizes.
 
B.E.
12/03/2024
 

And how is the build going Keith? 😉 😄 😄 
(Note, I do not mock anyone for their respective take on EV:s! I myself drive a RAV4 pluginhybrid with much joy and I do not appreciate Greta being Swedish)

I don't want to add to thread-drift, but I am currently earning my living in trying to put reality checks onto the policy-making. This means that I am working on possible solutions to obtain all the raw materials needed for the policy-driven electrification of our societies, in particular battery raw materials. We will be facing serious shortages and geopolitically motivated curtailing because the processing capacities for e.g. lithium and rare earth elements are almost 100% located in China ...
 
And then, what we do in Europe and North America may make us feel good, but all those emerging economies around the world will have to rely for a long time on internal combustion engines - not the least because in countries where there is barely enough generating and distribution capacity for domestic consumption, there will be no capacity for electric cars in the decades to come.
 
However, I am here to relax and enjoy and not to be caught up by my professional concerns and worries 🤨

I guess the politicians don't know any engineers!!!!!!!
 
This isn't quite true in the UK because the Conservative Energy Spokesman in the House of Lords is a certain Lord Martin Callahan. In the 1990's he worked in my engineering department. None of my staff were very disappointed when he left to pursue his political ambitions, frankly as an engineer he was as much good as a chocolate teapot. His political rise was somewhat metioric but on energy matters he sill talks out of the wrong end of his digestive tract. God help us.

It’s the angle that the photograph is taken that is misleading you. It’s the same detail in both pictures.

Messing around with cabin cupboards or closets.   Making the bulkhead assemblies and inserting them.  Nothing is glued in yet.
 
 
 

Rusty, Chuck, Thank you!
 
Keelson
I've been working on the keelson for a while. A little bit here a little bit there while fairing the frames. I went with boxwood as usual and milled scarph joints. I used 30lb (.023) black mono for the bolts. I noticed that the keelson would slip and slide a bit on the frames so I pinned it in two locations. This enabled me to center it port and starboard while saving a lot of eyeballing when gluing it down. 

Mike

Plankshears, swivel gun mounts and head cheeks.

Good evening, last week I was busy with the door hinges of the pump house. They're okay for my first hinge.
 

 

 

 

 

Furthermore, today I sanded the hull and filed the water channel into the frames.
 

 

 

 

 

The two dales

Each is made of 3 pieces as a base
(bad photo, sorry)

A finished dale

Making the holes in the same place on both sides was a challenge.


While the glue from the dales is drying, work continues on the inside.
The support under each dale is fictional, and later virtually invisible. This gives the dale (as support for the deck) a slight curve

And looking 5 steps further in the future.
Checking the relationship between the sides of the castle, channel, mast and the schrouds of the main mast.

Oops, I'm going to get in trouble if i go further this way...
Noticed it just in time

Baker: thank you, Patrick.
 
I made another part of the decoration. And as I said it goes very slowly... but if I count correctly, there are more than 500 pieces of gilded parts on the ship already... and this is just one quarter....
 
Jan
 
 

I´m continuing with the decoration, it goes very slowly, they are very small. 

Here is the another part of decoration. Another one will follow...and I´m still at the beginning...

Another part of decoration on the balconies added. It is slowly filling up😉
 
Jan

Hi friends,
 
I starded making friezes at the upper gunports and very soon I find out I had a problem. 
Distances between wales are increasing backwards from 7 to 9 - 10 milimeters. Now I don´t know why, I made the hull 12 years ago...but It was not possible to make mold or something like this for serial production ( I needed 100+ pieces), because every piece was original...🙄 .... so I had to draw them and use 3D printing. Then fit each piece to its place...  but I think the result is quite good.
 
Jan
 

All the best in the new year  to you all 
 
I didn´t have a lot of time, but I made some parts. Lanterns on the sides of the aft are made, and I improved the galion. I think now it is better and is more coresponding with the rest of the ship. 
 
Jan

Just another small update...the more I work the less is visible....😄
But I´m trying.
Jan
 
 

Good morning everyone
Main mast Back stays
at last i am starting to get some quality time on the build all the main backstays are fitted

 

, and last night the Main Topsail Yard Tye went in


Apollo Ruth and Dobbie, 3 loves of my life

 

Post One Hundred and Fifty- six
 
Bits and pieces 
From this point on the comforting crutch of the glossy manual has ended.
There are many small fittings to add and in this session I will mainly be referring to Plans 5 and 9.
 
Working from in to out there is brass wire(0.8mmø) to be inserted thro the faces of the skid beams across the waist (plan5)- shown as belay pins on (Plan 9).

3955
The arrangement seems to have been taken from that of the Victory where one rigging source indicates that the triple aft three relate to the belay of the Staysail sheets and those on the second from forward beam for the Main Topmast Stunsail downhauls.
 
Fortunately for me this has no practical application.

3946
The inner guide rope stanchions (PE59) are fitted along the waist gangboards followed by a wooden rail (2X1mm Pear) atop the inner hammock crane arms, the fit into the brass etched crutches is perfect.
 
I have diverted from the plan by adding iron stanchions between the timberheads around the Fo’csle.

3953
Not provided in the kit I used spare items from the Sphinx kit- a slightly shorter stanchion.
It seemed reasonable to me that given the low height of the rails, stanchions would have been fitted.
 
The kit provides etched versions of the belay pins, they are a mere 8mm in length, and barely 0.8mm in width, but still have a visible shape, and I think they look quite good at the scale.

3947

3956
Blackened to give them some tooth and painted a bare wood colour I added a few to the pin rails for effect.

3949
There are quite a few eyebolts to add along the channels together with the iron work for the Main studding booms.
 
I dare say I will find other little additions as I continue to re-check the plans but for now I am moving onto dressing the stump masts.
 
B.E.
10/03/2024

Thank you very much, gentlemen, for your appreciation !
 
**********************************************************

Installing the ship’s boats 3
 
The installation was movd further to completion by tidying up the loose ends and producing the bunts for runners of the boat tackles. The runners are about five times the distance between the head of the davits and the waterline long, plus some extra for handling. However, as the rope is slightly overscale the runners were cut a bit on the short side in order to make the bunts not too bulky. The actual runners were cut above the cleats and the bunts were formed over two clothes pins driven into a piece of wood and have a loop pulled out with which they can be hung over their respective cleat. 

Note that the runners for the ‘ready’ boat are not arranged in bunts but in coils, ready to be thrown loose so as to allow the boat being lowered quickly e.g. in a case of man-over-board.

Again, working from the inside out, the next items to go on were the stays for the davits. Luckily, the stays are drawn in the lithographs so that their points of fixation are known. I had to deviate a bit from those drawings, as they pertain to the longer, turning davits for the boats stored on rack, which belong to a slightly later period. The stays are supposed to keep the davits aligned, rather than helping to swing them around.
 
It was a bit of a trial-and-error procedure, before I came up with a protocol for making miniature fake chains of exactly the right length and with loops at both ends. The chains would have been shackled into ring-bolts at the head of the davit. No way of making shackles in this scale, so I just tied the fake chains to ring-bolts with fly-tying thread.

Some people may think now that’s it, but in fact there still is quite a long to-do list for little details:
 
- davit for the stern-anchor
- flag-poles and flags
- for the gun: tampon, wiper, rammer, and two gun-sights
- and the … crew!
 
To be continued ....