davyboy

Hello,
because the weather changed here dramatically, it has not rained now for 4 days and the sun is shining , I'm not so busy at the shipyard. Since November it is raining here with only some dry days between and may be 2 or 3 days with sunshine. Since Christmas it stormed every week, sometimes also twice a week and now for 14 days we had no storm. They said, this winter we had 22% more rain and it was 5°C warmer then the years before! 
 
But at the shipyard the carpenters where busy and finished the quick-work. 

 
 

Further planking of the rear castle.
I started with the part that was planked according to the clinker build method. These planks were not sawn but made from tree trunks that were split. length of the planks no longer than 2.70 meters
The first of these planks was tapered.

Above the tapered plank it is marked how high the upper plank may be

Further planking

And then there was a week's holiday in the sun, which was put to good use doing research .

Back home and continue planking. The intention is to have 6 layers of clinker build, in total I should end up with 9. Above that there will be shields.

That's why I first have to place the 2 dales, which determine the correct location of the upper deck in the rear castle

English lesson :
Dale.. old English word. The intention of these two dales is to drain the pumped water from the hold outside.
And if you have to pee....Do it in the dale (so their 2nd name : pisdale... 😳)

Though I feel like I didn't get much done on the Cheerful over the last week, I do feel a sense of accomplishment.  After about 9 hours of work total, I finished both boom crutches.  These are easily the most complicated shapes on the build so far.  I read and reread Chuck's instructions on how to get the angles correct many times before I started.  I formed the first boom crutch and glued it on and painted it before I started the second one.  It probably would have made more sense to make the second one before I glued on and painted the first.  Doing it the way I did made it harder to get them the same size and symmetrical to one another.  I wound up spending some time sanding the first to get it to look like the second, after it was already glued into place.  A delicate task, to say the least.  At any rate I'm happy with how they turned out, more or less the correct angles and the same as one another.  While carving/cutting these out of single pieces of wood, I couldn't help but think of the guy who carved this out of a single piece of Carrara marble 500 years ago: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/65/Pieta_de_Michelangelo_-_Vaticano.jpg/1024px-Pieta_de_Michelangelo_-_Vaticano.jpg
 
Erik

Working steady now on the model which is good.   I doing this while laser cutting parts for those first two chapters.
 
The lower bulkhead against the aft platform was next.  This is pretty easy and straight forward.  But before I can get to work on that I have to add the gun deck clamps for the beams.  There are many ways to find the height for the deck clamp.  But I chose to create another template.  Its just easier for me.   And I hope for you as well.   Place it on the model with some tape.  The top edge of the template under that inboard shear plank.  Then trace along the bottom edge of the template to mark the TOP of the deck clamp.
 

The deck clamp is made using two lengths of 1/4 x 1/16 cedar strips.  Just follow the line you made.  The top of the strips against your line.  This chapter will come supplied with a few gun deck beams.  You can see I cleaned the char off one in that same photo.  I cut it to length and test fit it in position.  It should slide right up against the great cabin planking.   Hopefully you have the height of your deck clamps equal on both sides so you dont have a sloped deck beam...
 

I have that beam sitting on the side while I take the two pieces that are laser cut for the lower bulkhead.  Its all etched and ready to go.  You just have to clean any char and tweak its shape a bit.  You want to get a pretty good tight fit against the bulwarks on each side.   But remember you will have a gap where the inboard planking would have been.   Thats fine.  So you have some leeway here.   The inboard edge of each bulkhead should be flush with the opening for the stairs.   You can see this in the photo below while giving it a test fit.
 

I applied some finish to each piece before gluing it in position.   One note however.   Continue to test fit both sides of the bulkhead....with the beam in position.   You will see that after tweaking its shape that it sticks up beyond the deck beam.   That is by design...so leave that as is.   You may have to adjust as needed on your model depending on how far apart your platforms are.  But this small lip will be important later when we add the next bulkhead on top of that beam.

That next fancy bulkhead is my next project.   The plan fits really good so now I just have to spend the next couple of weeks turning this bulkhead into parts that look convincing.  Its a major focal point for the model so I will spend a lot of time getting the details and design just right.  Hopefully.  That first quarter deck beam is not glued in position yet.   Its just there to help me plan out my next moves for this bulkhead.   The windows and door will be a challenge for sure.  But I am eager to get started.
 

 
 
 

Now for some analysis of geometry and construction. 
 
Fifteen years ago, I built the stern frame based on my observation of the first Bellona model, and the Admiralty drawings. I did not understand what I was building at the time, I just followed what I saw. And now I understand as I get into the details.
 
In the model, you can see a couple of strange things. first, the tops of counter timbers with the dovetail joints stand proud of the horizontal transom tying them together. This leaves a gap of about 2". I now realize that these gaps provide a space for the bank of sash windows to slide up into. It means that the windows can be opened at the bottom by about 9"; not a lot, but better than no opening!
 
Second, the side counter timbers, effectively the end of the hull frame, project out from the bottom of the balcony upwards. that is, the bank of windows are recessed back relative to the balcony, creating a shadow line between the upper and lower parts of the stern. There is no functional reason I can see here; it is a visual trick to emphasize the sweeping serpentine curve of the balcony from one side of the composition to the other.

That creates some complication in how this is constructed. The green line shows the aft most edge of the side counter timbers, or hull. There is one moulding along the tops of the window bank, just under the balcony, in red below. Another moulding runs along the base of the balcony, in orange below.
 

 
when the balcony swings out from the stern, the two mouldings split from each other:
 

The next item I did not fully appreciate until I started constructing the stern is how its design needs to reconcile  two geometries working against each other; the upper sweep of the sheer, and the flatter sweep up of the decks (red lines below). The conflict shows a little where the gun ports cut into the sheer in odd places.

But at the stern they really need to be resolved. One of the most important, I discovered, is that the moulding at the tops of the windows must align with the sheer of the deck at its upper edge (orange line below), since it sits flush under the deck itself; but its lower edge must conform to the sheer of the hull (dotted red line below), since it turns the corner and runs along the side of the quarter galleries that align with the hull's sheer.
 

And then one more thing about the stern. In 2014, ten years ago, I posted a question about the stern geometry (posting #173). I noticed a discrepancy in the drawings relative to the roundup of the quarterdeck. If I continued the deck aft with its normal roundup, it was a couple of inches lower than the deck as it was shown coming out into the balcony. There was a lot of discussion around posting 173 as to whether this was a mistake in the drawing, or something else. I finally found in Steel that the quarterdeck does indeed increase its roundup as it approaches the stern balcony, to give a lighter, more springy feeling to the visual lines of the stern. So the drawing is correct, and this needs to be accounted for:
 
 

So, construction next!
 
Mark
 

a lion

Decor for the catwalk

Coat of arms on the stern
 

Women for decoration

Wreaths for ports

Mizzen Topsail Mast
Over the last couple of days I have been making the Mizzen Topsail Mast. Starting with a piece of dowel I added the square section to the top section and then rounded off the top section.
 
The dowel was then placed in my proxxon mini lathe so the mid section taper could be added. Next, using a sharp craft knife and sand paper, I created the conical shape below the square section.
 

I decided to make the bottom section of the topsail from a separate piece of 6mm square stock material. I started with the top octagonal section. Next I reduce the square section down from 6mm to 5mm. Finally I added the smaller octagonal section to the lower end. A hole was also drilled for the FID which was test fitted.

It was then a case off adding a pin between the two pieces and gluing them together.

The topsail mast was then test fitted to the Indy and I was pleased it was a good fit without any modifications. The topsail platform crosstrees have not been fitted in the photo below, but can be seen on the main mizzen platform.

The lower section showing the cap is a good fit. The crosstrees are resting on the mizzen mast platform and are ready to be added to the topsail platform.

Close up of the underside of the platform after the crosstrees were added.

Close up of the topsail mast cap

I will continue to make the remaining topsail and topgallant mast over the next few days.
 

Post One Hundred and Fifty-two
 
Anchors 
As a change of scene, I thought I would make up a couple of the anchors.
The kit includes the four main bower anchors, if the smaller stream and kedge anchors are required they are easily obtained using aftermarket suppliers.
 
The kit provided anchors have a scale shank length of 77mm (16’ 2”) which equates to a weight of 43cwt
This weight falls between the allocated anchor weights for 38-50-gun ships.
The outer diameter of the ring is 29” which scales to 11.5mm.
The thickness of the ring scales to 1.4mm.
A 64-gun ship had 4 bowers at 57cwt plus stream at 15cwt and a kedge of 7cwt 2qrts.
 
The kit anchors are 3d printed and very finely sculpted. All the subtle features are moulded into the shank and arms.
I think the day of the white metal anchor is coming to a close.
As with all resin stuff the parts need washing and priming.
 
The stocks are pre-cut from Pearwood and are faced with a thinner veneer that contains the Trenails correctly positioned and with engraved markings for the iron retaining bands.

3831
The only modification I felt necessary was to taper the arms thickness a little from outside the central area towards the outer ends.
This reflects a more authentic shape.
 
Once primed, I used Vallejo black/grey, followed by dark brown /rust weathering powders.

3824
The anchors on the left have had the weathering treatment, those on the right as painted.

3830
Brass wire of 1.4mm ø was used to make the rings which have an outside ø of 11.5mm.

3835
The ends of the rings were reduced in size to fit the shank and chemically blackened to give a little tooth for the puddening.
 
The stock halves have mortises cut into the inner sides to fit against the shank. There should be a gap between them but I thought it a tad too large so I deepened the mortice somewhat.
Glued together the facings are then added.

3834
Those familiar with my stuff know that I favour heat shrink rubber tubing to represent iron hoops.
 
The final part is to add the puddening to the anchor ring.
I used Syren 0.45mm ø and Morope 0.1mm stuff for the seizings.

3838
In applying the puddening unless you glue the ring in place it needs to be held steady. As I work around the ring I apply pva to help keep it in place.

3842

3847
 

3849
Capt. Pellew is dwarfed by Indy’s anchors.
 
I won’t be fitting or rigging the anchors but as far as I can see there is no reference to this in either manual or plans, so other sources will have to be found; fortunately there are many available.
 
 
B.E.
02/03/2024

The rabbet and bearding lines are marked with a tiny marking gauge (a present from my children who know my weakness for these things

 

Then some careful work with a 2.5mm upcut bit in the hand drill against a straight edge to establish the rabbet, using a section of planking to check depth, followed by some carving and scraping with the tiny chisels I made last year for Orca. The stem and stern post rabbets will be refined as they are planked.

This is how it’s supposed to be done.

 

Soo, this was a funny little piece to piece together, piece by piece, so to say. All dovetails and pins handcut with jewellers saw and filed to fit. 
It is the forward hatch and stairway just aft of the main mast. I decided to give it a wash of staining to dampen the quite white appearance of it. In order to match I sanded the main hatch  coaming also and applied a wash to it too. When dry I will give it a quick touch up with 320 grit paper and apply a couple of layers of laquer.
The bottom edge is sanded to the same rise as the deck beams so I used the top edge as index when mating all the corners. 
The two small blocks in the upper right corner (one with an arrow) was used to get the right size of the openings, and also keep things fair and square.



Here it is still moist after the staining hence the quite dark colour. It is not glued in place yet either. The real deal was through bolted from top down through the deck beams. I will not bother with that. I know my limitations (I think). 😉 

Cheers guys!

Update
 
All frames cut out and (dry-fit) mounted with keel bow and stern parts. Nothing is glued together yet.
The stringer liners and the pine-planks can be ordered now. For planking I intend to do it with 1,5x8 and 1,5x10 mm planks. The stringers will be 2x3mm
 
Nils
frames kept down to the base board with clamps. Note the reinforcement squarebar 13x13mm, this gives a strong hold

all 16 frames set up
 

Update
 
Today it starts with sawdust making.
 
The base construction plate was used fro the "Ergenstrasse", sanded over and fitted with frame-spaced little squarebar pieces that were glued on in place.
The keel with bow and sternpost ist cut out and glued together, also the reinforcement 13x13 mm squarebar with pushed in counter-nuts. ( for take up of the stand spindle later on ) is made and ready for assembly.
The "raw frames" are cut out from the 4mm ply sheet in order to have  more handable "tiles". Then holes were dilled, in to the outcut spaces of every frame.
Now the 16 single frame contours are carefully cut out, tile by tile in the good old hand jigsaw manner. I can imagine that those who are assemling kits comprizing laser cut frames are smiling here, but this is scratch-build
 
Nils
 

the shipyard build base with spacer lugs. This one is from former "Ergenstrasse"build, sanded over and equipped with new distance lugs. the frame spaces are taken from the sideview lines / frame plan

 

the reinforcement squarebar with pressed in counter-nuts

the lines for stringers were added on the frame plan

frame-outlines on transparent paper, with drawn in notches for the stringers later on

 

here the keel with glued on bow and stern. The cut outs take up the frames during assembly

rough cut 16  "tiles" for better handling
 

Another small update. Here's the 'Meteor' with the first deck beam temporarily in place - no, I'm not planning to deck the upper decks before the lower decks, but a beam placed there helps to stop the hull from being forced inwards at the shoulders by the severely curved bow planking!
 
John
 

HI, and thanks.....
 
Sheave bloks
 
 

Carpal tunnel, left and right

The 1 port lid:
 

Thank you Roger!
  If I understand you correctly, the crew of the ship was located approximately like this.

Uh, Grandpa, you sure that's right?......... God bless and protect the wee ones. 

Thank you for the engineering advice Veszett. Thank you Rick - have they managed to sell her yet?
 
The last 6 months have flashed by but sadly he isn't showing many shipwright skills yet. 
I have continued with the development of my barrel making skills.

The hull with the exception of the engine room is fully barrelled.

I have attached formers to get the stern shape accurately established.
 I have block filled and sanded the stern to shape.

I have also commenced sanding the hull but as you can see the frames still have most of their blue sanding guide marks still visible. I foresee a big sanding event coming up but will wait a few days for more eye recovery before I commence.
I am looking forward to spring and the end of the incessant rain which seems to have been going on for ever. 
 

Stern friezes, unfortunately for me, I have to use my left hand, which is not my hand, i'm using olive wood :   :  

Hello,
that was a week of drawing. But at least I will build the cabins after the standard drawing. If it was really so, I don't know

May be I make the bed place a little narrower. But here I can store the cannon in the cabin.

This is the version they used at the Medway. The difference is, at the Medway the cabins are going until right behind the mast. So they are a little broader, but there is at least no space left for the cannon. 
They had this cabins for the master and someone else, but I think that the master must look in this case for a place in the lobby for his maps and octant. When the 1.Lt. and the master had this deck, there are these extra cabins. Below the drawing for the 1745 establishment.

The carpenters where also busy and build the spirketting for this deck.