davyboy

Hi Dave, after you slice the boxwood into slabs, let it sit for several months in you shop so the wood 'stabilizes' to the moisture level in your shop,  
Also, some of your thicker pieces might need a few more months to air dry.
 
Duff

I recently obtained a quantity of Boxwood. I actually rescued it from a container of "firewood",the average length of the pieces is around 9" with a diam ranging from 3/4" to 2 1/4". It still has the bark on. I bought a bandsaw today so what would be the best way to cut it for modelling purposes ? I was thinking of just cutting it into slices or is it better to leave well alone until required ? The tree was cut down around 18 months ago so I reckon it should be ok to use.
 
Thank you,
 
Dave
 
Mods,if this in the wrong thread please move it.

Brian C and Jaager,
 
Thank you for your replies gentlemen. I cut up a couple of pieces today after setting up the saw and am quite happy with the result but will try to obtain a blade with a finer tooth count. I do have the small Proxxon table saw which is adequate for my purpose. A Byrnes saw and thicknesser are outside my finances unfortunately.
 
Kind regards,
 
Dave

Thanks Jaager,but i don't think I will bother buying a Wood Slicer blade. I had a play today with a larger bit and got a nice 7/8" x 3/4" piece,the cut-off pieces I ran through my little proxxon and have some nice small strips. As I got this wood from a container of firewood I'm quite happy to carry on as is. Every piece is a freebie. I just had a count and have 90 plus pieces to go.
 
Regards,
 
Dave

Thanks Jaager,but i don't think I will bother buying a Wood Slicer blade. I had a play today with a larger bit and got a nice 7/8" x 3/4" piece,the cut-off pieces I ran through my little proxxon and have some nice small strips. As I got this wood from a container of firewood I'm quite happy to carry on as is. Every piece is a freebie. I just had a count and have 90 plus pieces to go.
 
Regards,
 
Dave

You're welcome Robin .
 
Main Lower Shrouds and Burton Pendants
 
I've fitted all the Main Lower Shrouds. The foremost one is served all over, and the others are served for the uppermost quarter.
 
The Burton Pendants are slipped over the mast head before fitting any of the Shrouds. These are used for heavy lifting of any cargo, in conjunction with other rigging on the yards. They have a Thimble spliced into their lower ends, and are made up as a pair with a Cut Splice around the mast :
 

 

 
The foremost shroud is a single and also uses a cut splice to connect the port and starboard shrouds :
 

 
The rest of the shrouds are paired on each side as were the mizzen shrouds. This pic shows all the shrouds fitted around the mast head :
 

 
The deadeyes and lanyards :
 

 
An overall pic of the rigging so far :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks Jaager,but i don't think I will bother buying a Wood Slicer blade. I had a play today with a larger bit and got a nice 7/8" x 3/4" piece,the cut-off pieces I ran through my little proxxon and have some nice small strips. As I got this wood from a container of firewood I'm quite happy to carry on as is. Every piece is a freebie. I just had a count and have 90 plus pieces to go.
 
Regards,
 
Dave

Thanks Jaager,but i don't think I will bother buying a Wood Slicer blade. I had a play today with a larger bit and got a nice 7/8" x 3/4" piece,the cut-off pieces I ran through my little proxxon and have some nice small strips. As I got this wood from a container of firewood I'm quite happy to carry on as is. Every piece is a freebie. I just had a count and have 90 plus pieces to go.
 
Regards,
 
Dave

Ed, I have used Firefox as a default browser on Win 7 and found no problems.
Maury

L.s.
 
It's not windows 7 AND ie11, it's just ie11

Ed, have you tried using Mozilla's Firefox?  I use it exclusively and have no problems. But them I'm a die-hard and am still on Windows XP. My Admiral has Windows 7 on her laptop with Mozilla Firefox and I had no problems accessing or posting to MSW  from her laptop (while my laptop was getting a new fan installed)

And on we go with some trifles :-)
 
I was wondering how to create furniture without it looking like dollhouse toys. Ok, off I went to find out.
 
Luckily I was successful, only have to stick to the true dimensions :-)
 

 
Here the substructure, fast done and quite stable.
 

 
Contemporary drawings always show the tables direction fore aft, so I displayed them over the massive partner of the sternpost. Like this canvas cabins could be erected on the ship´s sides.
The openings on the deck are no litter bins but aft there are the two scuttles of the ventilation trunks of the hold and in the front the scuttle for the bread room and in the middle the one for the Lady´s hole, means the stuff of the gunner. The gratings are flipped open for better ventilation.
 

 

 
Here we already have the name of the area, the gun room. The gunner had his quarters here and was then highest warrent officer in this area.He had a canvas cabin on starboard and larboard was the one from the chaplin. The area also was the mess for the warrent officers, junior lieutenants, marine officers and first class volunteers. Here also the chaplin taught the junior midshipmen. The Area was separeted from the rest of the deck by means of canvas covers.
 
  
 

 
Still have to redo the canvas blinds, but they work well as layout separations.
 
I hope, I got the details right,
 
cheers Daniel
 
PS: Could not resist to show the Tic Tac in place :-)

Hi guys (m/f) ;-)
 
The finished setup:
 

 

 

 
on the sides there will be two more pieces of carving..
 
Best,
Michiel

Hello everyone and thanks for your patience, waiting for the O19 dingy progress.
I finally put the last planks on that little bugger and worked on the gunnels.  I also started to put the rower's seats in and the helmsman seat.
Overall she's not too bad looking for a prototype and will finish it.  It'll be good as a s spare on the display board.
 
In my humble opinion it was a worthwhile excercise.  I found that building a miniature model like this plank on frame is doable.  However, there are several things I will do differently now that I have gained the experience.
First of all I'll use build-up frames to prevent them from breaking. 
Just as with the larger models it's equally important to keep all the frames square and plumb to the keel. 
Working klinker planking with 1.5 mm or so thick planks is a real challenge at these small sizes. Here too a I think that a slightly wider plank that's pre-tapered will work better then to shave it after the plank is on. 
That in itself will be a challenge but I also found it was rather easy thinning the planks down after they are cemented on. 
 
Okay, enough about the should'vs and show how the dingy looks like as of this afternoon.  The first 5 pics were taken this morning before lunch.  The rower's seats are just stuck on loose.
 
The last three were taken late afternoon after I cemented the rower's seats on, made and installed the bow deck and the helmsman seat.  Next will be finishing the gunnels, the oar thingy's, the oards and the rudder. Then some nice dark grey paint.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Cheers,

http://www.zazzle.de/i_liebe_schafe_haferl-168594458353144705
 
;-)
 
XXXDAn

As we are on a martial and brute man o war, it is time to make home cosy and cute ...
 

 
... means building the cupboards, plates for the square meals and tinplates ...
 

 
... hanginá them high and arrange the stuff inside ...
 

 
... and taking them down again where it sounds like "Exercising the great Guns" ....
 

 
... just a fade shade of grey remains.
 

 
I am thinking about putting some Hello-Kitty-stickers to personalize the shelf ...?
 
XXXDAn

Continuation.
 
Adhesives deck design elements.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
Regards, Paul

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
Regards, Paul

Thanks Brian, Steve, Nils, Grant, Ed, George and Mark - much appreciated .
 
Main Stay Collar
 
This is the largest Collar on the ship. Again, it is served all over.
 
After measuring and serving the line I "spliced" an eye into one end. Next I lashed the Heart to it. Then came the fun part - attempting to pass the line through the hole in the knee of the head. To assist me with this I tied a length of thin cotton to the free end and led that through the starboard headworks, through the hole, and then back up through the port headworks. All went very well .
 
Once the line was all in position I passed the free end through the first eye and seized the end back on itself :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Even though too big for my own build, I could not resist to finish this small kit ...
 

 
... and the best: It came with two sets of decals :-) 
One in original english production and one as frensh bounty. As the second was rather uncommon I decided to opt for the english version.
 
But me and decals ... 
 
... but with loads of softener I finally succeded :-)
 

 
XXXDAn

Thanks very much for looking in again Brian, Allan, Arch, Nils, Grant, and a welcome to George .
 
Work has been continuing on the Bowsprit Rigging.
 
Bobstays
 
These are the equivalent of the Forestays on the other masts. Like all the Bowsprit rigging they are served all over. The inboard ends pass through the foremost holes in the Knee of the Head, and are spliced together :
 

 
Bowsprit Shrouds
 
The equivalent of the Shrouds on the other masts. These are hooked through eyebolts at their inner ends :
 

 

 

 
The outer ends of both the Bobstays and Shrouds finish in a heart block, and are lashed to their respective Collars :
 

 
  Danny

Gammoning
 
The Gammoning consists of 9 turns crossing over each other vertically, followed by the same number horizontally to pull it all tight. A couple of half-hitches complete it :
 

 

 
Boomkins
 
The Boomkins were made in similar fashion to the other masts/yards, with the exception that they are curved. I cut them from rectangular stock and "octagonelled" them before sanding them round. They have a step at their outboard ends for the shrouds and Fore Tack Block :
 

 

 
A Capsquare fastens them to the head :
 

 

 
  Danny

Fore Tack Step Blocks
 
These are relatively large Blocks which attach to the Boomkins - 14" in real life. I made them from English Box, the pics tell the story :
 

 

 

 

 
Their Strops are served :
 

 
  Danny

Hoi Carl, I guess vanity set in and shame   No, my friend, I'll make a picture of it with an explanation.  I really should star over again and may just do it but using a different method making the frames.  
I'm stubborn enough to just do that.  Tomorrow, with an explanation and pics, promise - - - provided I survive this crazy bug.
 
Right now I'm battling a flue like thing that drug me down.  I caught it from Gwen, naturally - - it's her fault 
 
By the way, all you y'all - attention please - - - I visited the Urology Center this morning and received the results of the three pieces of tissue from the bladder for the biopsy.  He even included one sample of the muscle.  The verdict - - drumroll please - - - all three are negative, NO benign tissue!!!!!        
No cancer anymore!!!!  
 
Cheers,
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 92 – Main Deck Framing 3
 
Framing of the main deck continues from forward and aft.  Additional operational features are also being installed.  In the first picture the topsail sheet bits  and two round openings for the anchor chain chutes  are installed.  The samson post is being glued in place toward the bow.
 

 
This very large timber extends up above the forecastle deck.  It will support the lever arms for the anchor chain winch located on the main deck just below the forecastle break.  The levers were operated from the forecastle.
 
Working just one step behind the drafting sometimes causes problems.  The next picture shows the step for the main capstan, which I neglected to install when framing the middle deck.
 

 
The decking between the two hatches and the middle bay of framing had to be removed and reworked to include support carlings and the square step itself.
 
The next picture shows the extent of the main deck framing at that time – a few days ago.
 

 
The next picture is a different view.  The three rows of carling under the deck cabin can be clearly seen in this picture.  The cabin will extend some distance further aft than the beams installed here.
 
 

 
The next picture shows some additional progress on the aft part of the main deck.
 

 
The members that will support the capstan on the main deck have been installed including two large support carlings.  The design of these supports and the step is speculative.  It will soon be time to make the smaller forward water tank and install both iron tanks while there is still access.  The bilge suction pipes will also need to be installed soon.
 
The next picture was taken while I could still place a smaller camera on the middle deck.  The view is forward along the middle deck
 

 
In the foreground is the main hatch and the bilge pipe openings.  The dark areas along the waterways are shadows of the deck beams. 
 
The last picture is one of those scary close-ups taken through one of the view ports.
 

 
This was taken at F8 – the smallest aperture on the smaller camera - so the foreground is out of focus, but the detail of the knees on the middle deck framing can be clearly seen – also a scarph jint in the deck clamp.
 
Ed