davyboy

Wishing you a speedy recovery.
 
G.L.

Examine the standing rigging... And this cat is hunting for ropes!

Hi Rob
 
Your Ethalion looks wonderful and I admire the way you  build an unique model with this kit.
 
Having had the pleasure to build those ***** shot lockers for my Bellerophon I would like to share a few thoughts and hope you don't mind.
In my kit the supplied cannonballs were much too big and I had to replace them. In the case of your Ethalion the 18 pounder shots should have a diameter of about 5 inch or 2mm in scale - they look larger. Then I think you should try to settle those balls a bit deeper into the locker - now they are in danger of getting loose in just a bit of a sea and shots rolling across a deck could be mistaken as a first sign of an impending mutiny, as Jack Aubrey tells us.
My solution was to take 1mm wood strips, drill 1mm holes into it and then drill with a 2mm drill bit nearly through it. Taking the shots out now might be a bit of a fumbling but they will not accidentally drop out.
 
Cheers and keep up the great work
Peter

Thank you all for your good wishes. Well on the mend now
jim
HMS Plymouth at the Falklands

Well its been more then a month, time for an update. I finished both sides with the gunport inserts/rabbits It took me the majority of the past months.
Still also some small corrections but I am happy withe results.
 
In between sides I stopped for some diversion to work on the gunport lids and hinges, just as a test. But I am not satisfied. I have to find an easier method to make them in qty.
 
For now the work will stop a couple of weeks for holiday. The next step I decided to do the rudder anew. I made that in an too early stage and I want to improve it and more realistic. I just became more and more unhappy with it.
 

I spent the last 5 days in Hospital.  Chest Infection that went into Pneumonia. However after excellent Treatment, I’m back home, feeling Hearty, if not quite Hale yet.
One to celebrate.
Grantully Castle , Aquirania, and another at Mudros during the Gallipoli campaign

… following 3 drawings of 7P, than some other Dutch ships from this age.
 
English ships have less fittings on van de Velde drawings.




Otte Blom has even 11 in his plans.

  Dražen

Ciao e grazie a tutti, altre foto.
 
Hello and thanks to everyone, more photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 298 – Crojack Yard 3
 
In the first picture, the yard has been permanently hung on its truss, the sling chain fastened to the mast, and the two triple tackles for the lower topsail yard sheets rigged.  These are shown in the first picture. 

 
The tackles are fixed to the sheet chains with wire shackles, formed in place.  At the lower ends the blocks are hooked to deck eyebolts.  The tackle falls pass through sheaves in the sheet bitts and will be belayed on pins through those bitts.  The next picture shows the two yard braces with their pendants.
 

 
I am installing the mizzen braces as each yard is rigged because they run forward toward the center and should not interfere with later rigging access like those on the forward masts that run outboard.  Those are being deferred until later.  In the picture the two pendants are threaded on to a wire that will form the common shackle by which they are secured to an eyebolt on the main mast.  The next picture shows that shackle being formed.
 

 
To make the shackle, the wire is passed through the eyebolt from both sides.  A single overhand loop in the wire is then pulled tight through the eyebolt to simulate a shackle.  The wire will later be painted black.  The braces are spliced to eyes in the block straps as shown in the previous photo.  The lines then run through blocks shackled to eyes at the yard arm, back through the pendant blocks and are belayed on the main mast fife rail below.  The next picture shows the run of the two braces.
 

 
The next picture shows the brace connection at the yardarm.  The blocks are shackled to the forward band eyebolts on each side as shown below.
 

 
The next lines on this yard to be rigged were the clue garnets with their sheet blocks, tacks and lazy tacks attached, followed by the bunt and leech lines. These are virtually identical in configuration to their counterparts on other masts that were described in earlier posts.  They may be seen in the next photo.
 

 
The clue garnet blocks are positioned by temporary belaying of the tacks and lazy tacks.  This will be adjusted later when the sheets are rigged.   These, along with most other outer rigging is being deferred until later to maximize access.  The next picture shows the bunt and leech line blocks on the yards and hooked under the top. 
 

 
These six lines pass through fairleads on the lower shrouds, then belay on the main pin rails port and starboard.  The reef tackles were then rigged, one of which is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The standing end of the reef tackle is spliced to an eye on the yardarm block that is shackled to the bottom eye on the yard arm band.  It then passes through a block tied off to the jackstay as shown, then back through the outer block, inward to the double quarter block on this side, then down to the fife rail.  This picture also shows a close view of the shackled brace block and the shackled topping lift pendant on the top eye of the band.  The loosely hanging chain is the lower topsail sheet that will be rigged later.
 
Whew!  These descriptions are like a rewrite of the rigging list.
 
Next, the bowlines.
 
Ed

A complicated fixation when gluing…


 
The paint below has been removed carefully… than…

… despite the bent form, I needed to press the ribbon additionally to make it fit well. Gluing again with epoxy.

… than, as it looks on the ship. The small windows have not been glued yet since I want to give the coat of varnish to the wulf & ribbon first, before gluing the windows.


 
Dražen

… and this is the finished ribbon.

 
When mounted on the ship and oil paint completely dried, it will get a thin layer of mat varnish and will blend in beautifully.


 
Dražen

Hello,
I would like to present you a new Video LINK today.
It shows the main stages of making the masts for the French corvette.
I hope that you like it.
 

Thanks guys for the 'likes' and comments.
Thanks Martin you express my thought process exactly.
 
So back refreshed from my week in Dorsetshire.

0613
 Two of my non ship modelling interests in one place.
Post 40
Modifications continued
Having started with the Skylight and Ladderway, I carried on and made deck space below the Main/ Fore hatches.

2618(2)
This is a completely unnecessary diversion from the plans and involves cutting out the  false deck areas which are marked as 'not to be cut out'.

2612
It is important to only cut to the area defined which will allow the coamings/ head ledges to still sit on the false deck.

2627
This will give me the option to leave the Fore hatch/ ladderway open.

2621
Similarly I will have the Companionway  hatch lid in the open position.
Enough messing about time to fix the false deck.
 
B.E
16/09/2018.
 

You can line the metal ones also. I usually put a piece of wood or cardboard between the wood surface and clamp when I use the metal ones or when I use C clamps too for that matter. I always thought the miniature wooded clamps would be nice to have. I really should try and make some.
 
Kurt

Thank you OC. Work is going on, slowly working on the hull, a lot small parts need to place. I have got few figures for my crew, hope to paint them later. Few photos of my work, places gun port lids.
 

 

 

 

Thank you all! I didn't stop there and added a little bit of an open flame!

The mast of the ship...

You wrote:
Another consideration is that I want solid planking beneath the upper oarsmen - I certainly wouldn't want to be sitting below a bunch of guys dripping with sweat . . . 
 
Are you projecting 21st century standards on ancient ones? I understand, for instance, that in the West even weekly bathing was a fairly recent adoption - quite revolutionary after an annual bath only!

Good evening to everyone after a long time, Ruby & Arthur Reed's epic does not end here, I recently attended the world shipmodels  championship of class C  in Galati 1-9 September   Romania where this model was judged by an international judging committee with a score of 87.66 for class C2. This contest took place 20 kilometers from my home. Some pictures on the jury table below.
All the best and a nice evening still.
 
Adrian.

Hello - the progress so far is some yards are up and in position.
Not exactly parallel as yet but hopefully will be once fully rigged.
 

 
Parral set up - seems slightly on the big size. For the top yards will use some left over from my Supply build which are smaller.
 

 
 
 

 
The Crossjack Tie on the mizzen mast was done slightly different from instructions. Took the centre block off and tried to copy what was illustrated in my book. the Thimbles were made from copper tubing.
 

 

 

 
 
An overall picture.
 

 
Thank you for looking and the ' Likes'
 
Doug
 
 
 

The US battleships of WWI with their cage masts always look so primitive next to their British counterparts, at least to me.
Again a great looking picture Jim. I always enjoy stopping by and taking a look when you post a new one. You never disappoint.    

USS Nevada , part of the 6th BS of the Grand Fleet in 1918
Mount board about19” X 13”
Jim

Ahoy Mates
 
Just less than a week from the Model Show here in Portland,Oregon next Saturday. I will be completing my Cheerful build in the next two days!!! It will be nice to have it completed 5 days from the Show. Here's my last build for the Cheerful. A binnacle out of swiss pear from a photo of one on a boat in the Manatoba Maritime Museum thanks to someone here posting to my question about binnacles for the Cheerful.And to Chuck for his drawing also. Pickels had to help since he wants his 3/4 of the desk space that this model has taken up for months now. He's yelling at me to work faster.
I hate to finish it up now since it's been a great build and having learned a lot building it.
 
Keith and Pickels

Well that is certainly food for thought isn't it  thank you Keith and Bob
 
So i have to put this quite simple, the book is ok, based on what he saw, however what he saw wasn't correct, as it may well have changed over time, or never right in the first place