davyboy

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 65 – Lower deck framing continued
 
More of the same, I’m afraid.  It looks like the lower deck framing is going to take about a month.  The first picture, taken from directly overhead, shows the lower deck framing back as far as the midship beam.
 

 
Once the last beam forward of the midship view port is installed, I intend to work from the stern forward so the last frames will be those at the  view port.  Having only one hanging knee to fit on these beams will reduce the fitting of these in the last tights spaces – and also to allow plenty of room for fitting the aftermost small beams by doing those first.
 
In the next picture a hanging knee is being fit to one of the small beams at the stern.  The limited space is apparent.
 

 
This knee was cut using the new pattern shown in the last post.  In the next picture the installation of that beam has been completed – except for the lodging knees
 

 
The next picture shows the aft framing progressed past the mizzenmast step.
 

 
A ledge is being glued in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows the extent of the lower deck framing currently completed.  I need to get going on some of those lodging knees.
 

 
This picture gives a good idea of how for forward the "deadflat" midship frame is placed.  Finally, a look forward below deck along the keelson.
 

 
The height of that keelson is 4 feet above the floor frames.
 
 Ed

The outside planking of the hull is complete. The next step is the main deck, hawse holes and transom framing
 

 

 

 

 
 
The spaces between the protruding main deck beams will become scuppers. I have no idea what form the deck waterways will take yet.
 
Dick

I think certain newspapers and news networks would grab that one and blare it in 72 point type.

All books have to sell. Usually it is of the 'Nelsons favorite ship' , 'the real hornblower' or 'Nelsons favorite leg of beef'  or alternately deliberately trying to wind up more knowledgeable readership i.e 'why america lost the war of 1812' or 'why britain lost the war of 1812', 'Waterloo the German victory' etc etc (one of those is real though I vaguely recollect one of the 1812 ones was used recently as well). 
 
You can imagine what accurate book header text would be
 
'south american huts, in detail!',  'shock news that english midshipman prefers portsmouth tarts to savana lovelies!'

Hello again,
 
I played around a bit with one of the prototype mines to see how the hardware would look.  In doing so I saw several problems with making them all in one piece.  Soooooh, I decided to make them in three sections, the loading lid, the mine body and the sinker.  As explained to Popeye I'll have better control over making the body shape.  It won't add that much time to them but they'll look much better. 
 
As the pictures show I was not particularly careful in cementing some of the hardware to it, it's "just" a prototype to play with.  Now that I figured on a better approach I'll be much more attentive to detail.
 

This shows some of the hardware that'll be cemented to the mine.  There are still a few pieces missing but I figure I'll make them for the real McCoy.  No sense in wasting more time on the prototype.
 

This is a close-up shot so you can see my impatience 
 

Okay, I moved - - - here is the prototype next to the drawing so yuns can see that the hardware matches the drawing.
 

A top view next to the corresponding drawing.  I may make the loading cap bolts from small brass nails and file the round heads into hexagonal shape to mimic real bolt heads, hmmm - - perhaps not   Here I used sewing pins and the heads are still too large.
 
Cheers, 

My thanks to all who came to visit and liked my posts.
 
Today was another doctor visit day and with doctor "Bendover" the proctologist.  I'm kidding of course, his name is not Bendover but Ritter.  We had good news and just keep on trucking   
 
This afternoon I made the dingy tackle handwheels that'll be cemented to the port aft side of the conning tower where the engine exhaust pipe comes up for snorkeling.  I have a photo of the location but the exposure is such that the black painted handwheels do not show.  But I do have a copy of a drawing so yuns get the idea where they are located on the boat.
 
It was a little tricky soldering 0.1 mm  brass wire to the 0.8 mm brass rod that I made into a ring of 5.5 mm OD.  But with enough small heat sinks it worked okay.
 
I also sprayed primer on the gantries and some of the attaching hardware.  The rest of the hardware like the pulley brackets and so will wait till tomorrow after I mow the lawn.
 
Well, that's it for now, pics below.
 

This photo was taken at the commissioning of the O19 where I was present at the ripe old age of 4.  You can't see the handwheels because they blend in with the black paint but they are located under the light fixture cutout.  The drawing below will show it better.
 

This drawing shows clearly where these handwheels are located and you can even see how the cables run.
 

This show how I secured the 0.1 mm brass wire to the 0.8 mm brass ring.  This steel office clamp also served as a heat-sink.  To solder the cross spoke I used a second clamp, it was kinda getting crowded and had to crank the heat up on the soldering iron.  
 

This shows the completed handwheels.  Don't forget that this is extreme magnification and shows all the little scratches and solder I was not able to clean away.
 

This shows the torpedo loading boom secured to it's securing fixture that'll be cemented to the deck.  It's now also painted as we speak. 
 

This is an extreme close-up of the boom secured to the deck fixture.
 
Cheers,

Thanks to everyone who came and visited my shipyard and your likes, much appreciated!!
 
@ Ian:  Thank you Ian for visiting.  Yes indeed, the fingers do a splendid job but, as you said, they are also closer to the tools like files and drill bits.  But so far I have been lucky with just a few minor scrapes and punctures.
 
Today I finished up on all the pulley brackets needed for both the front and aft torpedo loading gantries and the dingy loading boom.  Soooooh - - - I really needed to do something about those pesky thimbles.  I wrecked my poor brain on that for several days in how in the world I could make thimbles close enough to scale.  So, as I was mowing the front yard I thought about it and hit on a possible solution.  It was one of those "ah yes, of course with a slap to the forehead" moments 
 
After lunch I went back into the hot garage and started on the prototype for a thimble.  I took a 0.5 mm brass rod and bend it into a thimble shape as small as I could possible make it. I figured that if I sandwich it between two 0.1 mm brass shim pieces and file then to be a little larger then the bend piece rod I would have a workable thimble.
 
After about one hour I had the prototype done and found it to be quite workable.  I even wrapped a 0.021 inch rigging cord to it.  This'll need some practice or go for a smaller diameter cable.  I may have to visit a sporting goods store for fishing line as John Texnn5 suggested.
 
Now that I had the process pretty well in hand I made the second one, which turned out really good and is just slight larger then scale but once on the boat it'll not be too noticeable, I hope     This one took "only" 45 minutes.
 
Then I made a second one and that one came out slightly smaller yet, so I know that I can make them close to scale.  The problem comes in with the center hole for the attaching pin.  This is the limiting factor in size and I must be satisfied with it.
 
Okay, here are a few pics showing me efforts with the thimbles.
 

This shows the parts for the thimble.  A smal pice of 0.5 mm brass rod bend into a thimble shape and a piece of tinned 0.1 mm brass shim.  I put them on my ruler to show the size.
 

This shows the second step in the process.  I first soldered the rod part to the tinned brass shim, then shaped that to a little larger then the rod piece.  Next I drilled the hole in the center of the bend rod for the attaching pin.  The next step is shaping the brass shim to slightly larger then the rod and removing some of the excess solder.  Then I soldered the second piece of brass shim to the rod piece and final shaping the whole assembly. There is really no way to hold that in a pair of pliers so I first cut away most of the excess with a pair of scissors and then filing.  Yes, my poor left index finger took the brunt again with the file    I now reverse drilled the hole in the second shim piece and started to dress everything with a fine file.
 

This shows the completed prototype and as mentioned above, the seizing of the cable needs work.  I'll have to make a jig to hold this thing so the cable doesn't come off and unravel on me.  
 

This is a face side of the first production thimble, 
 

and this is the side view of the first production thimble.   
 
Cheers,

After some garden work I ventured back into the garage a k a shipyard, and tried to finish the dingy boom pulley brackets.  Got all but one done.
 
The raw parts were already made last Friday so I could dig right in.  I started with the top of the boom "loading" bracket.  That one seemed to be the most troublesome because of its shape and not much to hold onto.  
I shaped a small piece of wood to fit inside the pulley location and now I could hold it with a small pair of pliers and my left hand fingers.  This worked just fine and I managed not to ruin it.  After this was done I made two hooks to attach into the holes at each end.  Holes are #77 drill bit for all.
 
Next came the idler pulley with that funky ball end to the cable that attaches this pulley to the top of the boom.  That worked out okay as well, so far no goof-ups      I used a piece of 0.021 inch rigging cord as cable, poked it through a small hole -#77 drill -  and tied a knot in it on the inside of the bracket to simulate the ball end.  The other end will have to go over a simulated thimble.
 
Okay, so far so good, knock on wood    The last one I could manage to do today was the pulley bracket that hooks to the top of the AA gun deck.  For that one I thought to put a swivel-able eye in the end where I can attach a hook into.  This may be to large of an assembly and will most likely make another one that can be pinned directly to the "steel" part of the AA gun deck per the drawing. 
 
I started with the final pulley bracket that hooks onto the dingy or whatever other light loads we may have.  It can even assist with loading the torpedoes.
 
Here are a few pics for yuns to view and critique.
 

This shows the "load"pulley bracket that'll hook to the top of the dingy loading boom.  The next pic shows the side view.
 

This is the side view of the load pulley bracket and yes, all of the brackets still need some final trimming with a small file or sandpaper on a stick.  Yep, that's blood under my nail, poked it with a brass rod trying to pick it up.  Mutter, mutter, domkop.
 

This show the next pulley bracket I have dubbed idler pulley 1.  You may be able to see the knot inside the bracket.
 

This is another view of idler pulley 1. it's 0.15 mm thick.  The bleeding in my thumb stopped and I cleaned it with some water and ordered all the germs to stay away, or else 
 

This bracket I dubbed pulley bracket 2.  The way I made that swivel-eye is to first make an eye rod from 0.5 mm brass and a small piece of 1 mm OD brass rube.  The thickness of that piece of tubing is about 0.2 mm.  I first drilled a hole through the end with a #77 drill bit, then inserted the eye rod and held it with a small wooden clothe pin.  Holding it straight up I then clamped the clothe pin in my mini vice and then soldered the tubing piece to the pin.  I lucked out that I didn't solder everything solid, it swivels !!!!         Yeah, it's getting pretty long this way and then with a hook yet. 
 

This is a close-up of all the parts.  And yes, it still needs some cleaning up with fine sandpaper and then we can prime and paint everything.
 
Cheers,

Again my thanks to everyone for your like votes, I'm overwhelmed.
 
Today I had to split my time in doing some needed garden chores till my back told me to quit before it caused roubles, and the sgipyard.
 
After lunch I tried my other method in making the 3 mm pulley brackets.  I soldered the two strips of 0.1 bras sheets together, making in 0.2 mm.  The joggle had to be narrower of course because the 3 mm pulleys will be 1.5 mm wide.  So instead of using the 0.8 brass bar to bend the sheet I used a knife shaped file.  This really worked great.  Hey, you have to use whatever works 
Next I soldered the two pieces together and started to file the brackets into shape to what the drawing shows.  I had no longer the problem of them twisting when filing them crosswise.  However, I still had to be kinda gentile with it though.  Now I also could make it a little smaller, which really tickled me, I'm a happy camper  
 
Okay, three more of the 6 mm pulley brackets and 4 or 5 more for the dingy gantry and then making the pulleys
 
I think that I'll use the front torpedo loading gantry operable with a torpedo in a sling because other wise the aft part will be too busy with the dingy hanging in its tackle.   Hmmmm, the dingy, that's another model to be made      
 
Oh, btw, I also reduced the diameter of the brass nails to 0.5 mm and reduced the diameter of the head as well.  Now it looks mucho better.
 
No more pictures till all these pulleys are done and the gantries put together.  Yuns are sick and tired by now looking at nothing but pulleys and their brackets     
 
Cheers,

Hello Michael, you see, duck soup baby!  It IS easy, once we know how.  Have I ever lied to you???  
It becomes more interesting when we have to bend thicker and harder metals.  Then we need to calculate the bending radius on what material and thickness other wise it will certainly crack at the outside of the bend.  
 
That's why we had several blades with increasing radii on a rack near our bending brakes.  Oh well, there is a lot more to bending sheet metal then meets the eye and fortunately we don't encounter this much in ship model building     Yup, there's math involved being a good "tin pecker."  
 
 

Hello again all y'all and thanks to all who visited and liked my efforts, much appreciated!
 
Well, we'll continue with the saga of the pulleys.  Today I completed one more 6 mm pulley assembly and one 3 mm pulley assembly.  That 3 mm bugger was a real doozy to do but after a few tries I think I got it.  I may remake this one after I try another method tomorrow.  I'm not quite happy with it but we'll see.  
 
Here is a picture of it and you should realize that the pulley inside the brackets is 3 mm in diameter and 1.5 mm wide for comparison to the size of the brackets.  I also mounted it temporarily to the three way junction unit.
 

The brass nails are 0.6 mm in diameter.  I made the brackets from 0.1 brass shim but that's too flimsy and difficult to file to size.  I'll do the same as with the 6 mm pulleys and solder two of the 0.1 shims together for one bracket to make it stiffer, that way it's easier to file without it twisting out of shape.  
 
Cheers,
 
 

The finished sail was provided with the necessary lines and furled to the yard. The buntline blocks were installed as descript in Lees. After putting up the yard with parrel ropes, ties and lifts the cluelines and sheets were installed.
 
For the lifts I choose (together with my bosun) a rather unconventional instalment. During the period of Pegasus’ build and live usually the topgallant sheets were used also as topsail lifts. In earlier or later times the lifts ran from the masthead; the same arrangement that is shown in the kits plans. The yard by yard build up seems easier for me, if I use separate lifts and sheets. Therefore, upon a suggestion of my bosun, I decided on a clove hitched span around the cap and seized the topsail lifts to it.
 
Another problem is the belaying of all those lines. The space is rather cramped and I try to find reasonable belaying points using the plans and Lees while not overcrowding the bitts and rails.
 
In the meantime the sail maker has started to work on the main topgallant sail.
 
 

Parrel ropes attached
 

Yard held with ties...
 

...and lifts. You see the span around the cap with the lifts sized to it.
 

Lifts
 

In the beginning there is still some space to belay the lines on the quarterdeck rail
 

Buntlines are in place
 

Captain Jack asks for more order around the bitts...
 

...and the bosun tries to live up to this rather untimely request.

Hello again everyone and after dinner I watched a Greenland fishing trawler catching prawn in the Arctic Ocean south of Greenland, very interesting.  
But I also want to thank all those who visited and clicked the like button.  It does give a warm fuzzy knowing that all y'all like my efforts.
 
Today I spend quite some time shortening the booms and the forward gantry.  I could then start making the 6 mm pulley attaching hardware that are fastened to the top of the boom.  Instead of making them the traditional way I decided to make them in two pieces, each one with a joggle so the pulley can be pinned in between and the other end pinned to the boom bracket.
 
The question was, how to make this joggle small enough for a 2 mm wide pulley and also have enough space for the two plates to slide over the top bracket that sandwiches in between.
I have no box and pan brake nor a regular sheet metal brake, these parts are too small anyhow for that sort of equipment.  So, I took an old duck-bill plier, squared the ends on my bench grinder and used that as my brake.  See pics below for the process.  That was okay for one bend but now I had to make the next bend in reverse order.  So, I reversed the plier and fitted a 0.8 mm wide brass bar between one of the plier ends and the sheet metal.  I used the bar as the blade of a brake and bend that part down to 90 degree.  
There is of course a lot more to it with some additional handling between these bends, like tapping the bends with a small hammer to make the corners of the bends as sharp as possible.
 
Then it was just a matter of filing these peaces into what the drawing tells me they should look like.  
 
I had an additional problem in that 0.4 and even 0.3 mm brass sheet was too heavy for these tight 1 mm joggles.  So, I made the pieces from 0.1 mm sheet by 5 mm wide and soldered then together making one piece.  This also stiffened them due to the solder.
 
Okay, it would be better to show this process with pictures.
 

This shows only one half of the assembly and magnified too.  I used a tiny brass nail for the pin and the pulley is still that wooden 6 mm one I now use as a guide.  The holes are 0.5 mm.
 

This is another shot.
 

Here I have laid it next to the image on the drawing.  They can still be filed down some more and prettied up before primer and painting.
 
Here is the sequence of my method.
 

I started out with a strip of 0.1 mm by 5 mm wide brass sheet.  I drew a rough outline of the shape of the part.  The two straight lines indicate where to about put the ends of the plier.
 

Here is my pair of pliers with the ends nicely ground flat and true.
 

I placed the plier ends and the furthest away line for the first bend.
 

Here I made the bend a little beyond 90 degrees.   Now, what's not shown is that I tapped the bend with a small hammer against the plier to make the radius as square as possible.
 

Next I reversed the part to be bend and placed the plier close to the second line.  The final position here is determined by holding a 0.8 mm by 4 mm brass bar between one leg of the plier and the upstanding sheet.  see next pic.
 

Sorry, I moved the camera, it's difficult to hold the plier with one hand and shoot extreme close-up with the other hand.  In any case, you can see that I have placed that 0.8 by 4 mm brass bar between the plier and the sheet.  Now it's just a matter to use that brass bar as a part of a bending brake and holding everything as tight as possible twist the bras bar down against the bottom leg of the plier.  It should come out with a nice enough bend.  I put my small flat file against this joggle and tap it with a small hammer to flatten the joggle.
 

Here is final joggle, it looks quite nice and measures 1 mm, just enough for a 2 mm wide pulley with the second part on the other end of the pulley.  Now, remember that I had to make two of these to make one of the two pieces that holds the pulley, thus a total of 4 of these buggers for one pulley.  These two parts will be soldered together to make the one piece.
 

Here are the two pieces soldered together and ready to be shaped into that part as shown in the top pics.
 
Simple but very time consuming.
 
Cheers,
 
 

First of all I want to thank everyone for your "like" votes.
 
Hello Andy, good to see you and yes, that was indeed the Type 21 boats.  The German engineering were way ahead of any other country.  Not only in subs and surface ships but in aircraft, armor and rockets.  Brilliant minds.  I think that some time ago I did mention the Type 21 subs from the Kriegsmarine.  Thanks for the input, great stuff.
 
Well, today I continued with the small stuff for the gantries.  It was not easy and then to think that I have to yet make another set for the front 
As mentioned above, I had to remake a few pieces because they either didn't turn out to my liking or I cut too much away or some other goofy reason.  In any case, the rear gantry assembly is now mostly done except for the "come-along" and the pulleys with their brackets. 
 
I also forgot that my drawing was a little larger then my scale so I had to cut the gantry posts down a few mm's and I'll also need to shorten the boom some.  Oh well, that's what happens when you are not paying attention, being a "domkop" as the Dutch would say   
 
I made a bunch of pictures for my own records and share a few with yuns here.  Unfortunately some are a little out of focus or I moved the camera but you get the idea.
 

This shows the gantry boom attach bracket being made ready to solder.  I cut a small strip of brass shim to add some material to the bottom so I can solder the pivot pin securely.  The pin protrudes a few mm into the wood of the jig / holding fixture and this way the solder could creep under the small plate and into the other side of the bracket.  I actually had to ad some more solder to the inside of the bracket though and machined the excess of the pin away with a narrow Dremel cut-off wheel.  After everything was securely soldered I trimmed the whole thing to make it look goed.
 

This shows the completed boom attach bracket.  Yup, it's small.
 

Here I have temporarily attached the boom to the bracket and then stuck the assembly to the post bracket. Later on I also removed some of the excess epoxy cement because it interfered with the rotation of the brackets.
 

Here I started with making the pulley bracket.  This is one of the parts I had to remake because as you can see it is wider then the 2 mm for the pulley.  However, it's the idea behind it in how I bend the pieces of brass shim into a U form.  After this fiasco I shaped this piece of wood to 2 mm wide and bend a new piece of brass shim.  This piece of wood also functioned as a jig and holding fixture to make the pulley bracket like I did for the boom attach bracket, except of course for the pivot pin.  That was still going to be a real worry in how to solder the two together with the post bracket between them without desoldering the whole mess but It worked out okay.
I had to assemble everything on the gantry and clamped a small steel office clip to the boom bracket as a heat sink and a wooden clothe pin under it to keep the boom bracket tight against the post bracket.  Then, with the gantry upside down and in a small vice I soldered the pulley bracket to the pin while gently pushing it against the post bracket with a toothpick and guiding it in line with the boom bracket.  It worked without a hitch, which made me smile and gave myself a high-five   
 

Here I am holding the pulley bracket with the dummy wooden pulley in it, looks rather neat.  That's a 6 mm pulley.
 

Here I have both brackets successfully installed to the post bracket and just for fun I have installed the boom and the pulley.  Yes, that whole assembly does pivot too, wonders are not out of this world yet   
 

Here is another out of focus close up looking diagonally aft.  The cable for this pulley is the actual lift cable for the torpedoes and runs down below deck to an electric winch.  I'll have to take a look tomorrow and see if I can thread a "cable" to the loading tube access hatches.  That way I can demonstrate the operation with a model torpedo.  
 
Cheers,

Good morning everyone
 
and that concludes this thread, i think i have posted something everyday, at present i have nothing to replace it with, thank-you for the support you have given it

Further work!
 
I got a calm sunny day - so got the chance to take her out and sand the upper hull - that job is 90% complete.  I can still see a couple of places that need smoothing down a little more.
 
I've been working on the interior (most of this is not glued or varnished - just placed for assessment).
  Shot racks mostly done.  I ran out of 6lb shot, so need to get some more
  Jeer bits are well under way - the decorative bar at the top cost blood to make.
 



 
after redoing the gunport height it's nice to see the trial gun sitting nicely in the port.
 

 
Which gives us my latest full hull picture!
 

 
Colin

Hi all. After some time of absence, I'm back with the construction of the turrets.

 
I started with the big ones (12") on prow and stern, making the shells of them from proper shaped plastic.
I was counting on some spare gun barrels that I thought it would be suitable to finish them but I was wrong...
I soon realized that I had to make or buy new gun barrels. 

 
I didn't want to waste more time, so I put them aside and start making the side turrets (8"). I had to make all four of them.
Again, I made the shells with plastic and finished them, by placing those gun barrels I had in my spare box.
After some modification by a lathe, I think the final result is quite good.
Thanks

..........

These photos show the wales being installed.

Thanks again all y'all for your likes 
 
After my colonoscopy procedure this morning, which showed potential problems, I ventured back into the shipyard, aka the garage to do some more work on the gantry.
 
Instead of working on the boom and pulley attaching hardware I started making the boom elevation attaching and swivel hardware on top of the gantry post.  
I only got to completing all the parts but didn't have the time to attach them to the post.  Hopefully we can do that tomorrow.
 
Here are a few pics of the parts.
 

This shows the parts that make up the swivel attachment for the boom elevation equipment.  I laid them out to the right of the drawing to show where they are suppose to be.   It must of necessity be able to rotate following the swing of the boom and at the same time allowing cable hooks to move up and down when the boom is raised and lowered.  
Needles to say all the parts are still in their rough state.  Only after they are soldered to the top of the post will I clean it up and filed to size.
I made an attaching pin from 0.8 mm brass rod to attach the swivel unit to the two brackets.  I made the head from a small piece of copper tubing and soldered that to the pin.  I notice now though that I have to file the top of the head down some more.  Once the assembly is all installed this pin will have a safety pin run through a small hole on the bottom.  Hmmmm, yeah right, keep dreaming babes    Actually, the drill bit that could do that is broken - - - so it'll have to be done after I order a couple new bits.
The holes you see are 0.8 mm.
I plan to cut grooves into the tube of the post to allow for a better solder connection, it also facilitates holding these small parts for soldering.
 
 

This shows my soldering jig for the swivel unit with the other parts of the whole assembly.
I filed a groove into a piece of wood for the small piece of tubing to lay in and then placed a 0.3 mm thick brass plate next to it.  In order to solder this I used a wooden clothe pin as a clamp to hold it all in one place, this worked like a charm.  The two brackets will also be filed down some more to reduce them in size but that'll happen after they are soldered to the posts so I can clean them up together with finalizing the shapes and sizes.
 
Cheers,  

WOW, thank you all for visiting and liking my stories and build, it's really appreciated.
 
@ Daniel: re the pencil markings on the drawing - - - that's why they call it a working drawing    I always make notes and scribble changes on it.
 
I managed to do some more work on the gantries today.  I had been pondering how to make the boom attachment bracket, that's the piece where the boom and lower pulley attach to.  So, I made a core from boxwood and plated them with brass shim.  I used CA to cement the brass shim to the wood core.  
I drilled a small hole in the post and soldered a brass pin into it.  Then I also drilled the boom pivot pin hole and the hole for the attaching pin in the bracket.
The attaching bracket is then epoxied to the gantry post and spot soldered on the underside only.  It appears to be rather solid.
 
I was also wondering how to finish that triangular fitting for the boom elevation tackle attaching hardware.  I cut three small pieces of square brass stok and soldered them in between the two triangular pieces, like a sandwich.  I hope that the picture below explains it.
 
Well, it looks like things are coming together, slowly.  
Next are the boom pivot attach brackets and the pulley sheaf brackets.  Hmmm, how to make them rotate as if one unit - - - I'm thinking, Im thinking - - - don't disturb me now     
 
Talking about pulleys, Remco is mailing a few pieces of 6 and 3 mm brass rod      [[a birthday present, he says]]  But I have still quite few parts to make before they arrive.  It's all working easier then I expected and I'm having a ball     
 
Okay, here are a few pics to show the progress.
 

This shows one of the boom attach brackets assembled but not dressed yet and the raw pieces for the second bracket.  
 

This shows one of the brackets installed and how these brackets are fastened to the post.  Obviously that long pin is cut off just long enough to reach the pivot hole. As I write this both posts have now these brackets cemented and soldered to them.  No - - - no time yet for primer paint.   There are two more brackets to be soldered to the top of the post for the elevation gizmos   and the cross beam to the other post.
 

This shows the triangular attaching bracket for the boom elevation equipment.  Here you can see the three small pieces of brass that I soldered to the inside to make this thing so that I can pin the pulley hardware to it and the two thimbles for the cables.  This was a tricky thing to do but worked easier then thought.
 
Cheers,
 

Thank you all for visiting and for your like votes, please come again.
 
It's been a few days but last Friday I started with making some of the items for the torpedo loading gantry. But first I made one 6 mm and one 3 mm pulley out of a wooden dowel just to see how these sizes would look.  I think that they should be okay.  The wood I used was not very hard and the result is a little fuzzy but the aim was to check for size.
 
Then I made the two booms and primed them.  I also made two sets of connecting fixtures for the boom elevation come-along.  I think that making the small thimbles will be a real challenge.  I don't know just yet how I'm gong to do that.  They will be slightly smaller then what they show on the drawing above.  The cable is to loop around them and then either spliced or nico pressed together to form a loop.  I may have to cut a groove in a 0.5 mm brass rod 
 
Okay, here are a few pics of my efforts.
 

This hows the two pulleys made from a wooden dowel for size test.
 

Another view of the wooden pulleys
 

This shows one of the two booms with the attaching hardware.  The pulley attaching bracket will be hand filed down a little more now that I have better handle on it. 
 

This shows the boom with all the hardware soldered on.  Next step is dressing everything down some more and then primer paint.
 

This shows a boom all dolled up and primes.  I also placed the lower attaching piece in it's raw state below the boom end to show how it looks before dressing it up.  It'll be soldered into the next boom.  I forgot to make a picture of all the parts that make up the boom.
 

These are the parts to allow connecting the elevation rig to move the boom up and down.  One pair is ready for final shaping and then for the primer, the other set is yet to be completed.  I forgot to lay a ruler next to them but they are small, 4.5 mm.
 
Cheers,

Hello,

thanks for the positive comments.
That makes me happy.
Here is a little update:

Hello everyone, the Piet is back 
Yeah, I took a few days away from the dockyard for other pressing things and besides that I made a few working sketches for the torpedo loading gantries.  It seems that I need some additional material.  I thought I had everything but it turns out that I need one piece of 5/32`` ID brass tubing and of course the 8 mm brass rod for the pulleys.  
That large size tubing is for the lower part of the boom pole to be in scale for that part but it seems to make that upright too bulky.  I need to think about it some before I commit myself.
 
As yuns can see on the below pics there are quite a few parts to it and I have to make two of these suckers, one for the forward end and one for the aft end.  Then there is still the dingy loading boom to do.
 
After I made this sketch I already started to change a few things which I have annotated on the drawing.  It always seems to go this way, after looking at it you begin to see certain details that can be done simpler.
 
The detail sketches surrounding the center assembly sketch are not to scale.  The center assembly sketch is to scale.
 

I have not given every part a name or their measurements yet on this sketch.  As noted above, the sketches are not to scale so I plan to do that as I go along.  Here you can also see why I'm still a little apprehensive to make the upright post of the port assembly that heavy.  It seems a little too bulky, what are your thoughts?
 

This shows the detail of the boom attachment and pulley assembly.  All this must be able to rotate and the boom must be able to be lowered or raised.  It'll be a tricky thing to do.
 

This shows the detail on the top of the boom.  The top triangular part of the plate is to secure the boom to the deck fixture when not in use.  The other two are to attach the pulley brackets to.  The two pulley brackets are identical.
 

This is another intricate detail that'll give some work.  The part where the "come-along" and the stationary cable are attached to must also rotate with the swing of the boom.  The one change I'm making is the top cable attachment.  Instead of a clevis I'll be using a thimble like the center cable attachment.  And no, I'll not be making a miniature "come-along" to lower and raise the boom - - - what d'you think - I'm a magician?? 
 
Cheers, 

continuation of work  

This morning I managed to finish the deck gun before Gwen and I went to my birthday party thrown by our financial advisory company.   
 
I made the simulated elevation adjusting rack and cement that in place.  I'm happy with the way de gun came out and it looks quite menacing when viewed head on.
 
Below are the pics.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers,