Canute

Thanks, lads. I was attempting to further answer last night, but we lost power due to the gale force winds. Sounded like I had a freight train outside my window. The interweb connection crashed.

Anyway, the initial frames soaked in hot water, just under a full boil, for 15-20 min. Guess I'll add a wee bit more soak time. Looks like I need to do 4 frames over. I did flex the frames to see which was the best flex direction, but admit I was rushing things. Must remember "Patience, grasshopper".

Bent the frames on the mold. Tried the one piece frames;first one bent OK, broke two. Went back to doing one side at a time. Looks like I'll have to redo a couple. They cracked when they dried. And a question, can I re-soak the frames to make them lay on the molds better?

Mobbsie, very nice work. Thanks for sharing it.

Nighty-night or good morning to y'all. This most recent thread is getting too scatological for family reading.

Matt, have you done a broad axe? I think it was used to shape planks. The handle won't be too long, and the cutting edge was square. Saw one on an old "This Old House", when they did a timber frame house.

Jay, one of the best looking copper paints is from Alclad II. Its a lacquer and should be air-brushed (no brush painting with it) over a primer coat. The surface should be sealed and smooth. Their site is alclad2.com. Two shops in New Castle NSW stock it, according to the Alclad website

The wood glue prevents staining, essentially sealing the wood. If you want stained wood, do it before doing any glue ups. You may have to apply pre-conditioner, especially before staining basswood.

Tuff, you just described most bottled sanding sealers. No reason they couldn't also double up as filler. I like it!

I put some 1/64 wood I stained over the laser etch. Wasn't too wild about the graining of the wood, so I ended up flipping the transom anyway. I propped it up so that it was level and touching the horses and stern keel. Glued it up. So the quarterdeck side will be planked. Sheesh!

The transom is attached to the mold, finally. And the keel is pinned to the mold, too. Later this week, I'm going to try a few full frames at midship after a 5 min boil. I'm busy with other fun stuff the next few days.

Hey Chuck,

I'd like to tag along and follow this build. Interesting technique.

Cap'n, ask me no questions, I'll tell you no lies... let's let that sleeping doggie lie...

Matt, it was definitely longer than 5 years. I think they made wine until about 1960. For all I know, those barrels are still there. Haven't been in the shanty since the early 80s and at least one was still laying there. Harvest time was a lot of fun and Mom, Gramma and all my aunties cooked up a storm.

Check the model railroad shop and look for Woodland Scenics "Realistic Water". Just pour from the bottle. Seal up the edges of the pour area tightly. If you don't, it will find the floor or "wherever" underneath your project sits. Ask me how I know. Anyway, pour it about an 1/8th to 1/4 inch (3-5 mm) deep and let it sit. It pours milky, but dries clear. When dry, you can add another thin layer.

Fellas, I can validate some of the conjecture. As a lad, my maternal grandfather (Italian immigrant) had two wood wine barrels out in his "shanty", a garage extension. He made some strong red wine, in the 50s and earlier. The barrel bungs were cork, one on the side and one on the end. I do remember the side bung having some material around it, making it easier to pop out to pour the wine through the spigot/tap on the end. Every year the family pitched in to harvest the grapes and fill one barrel with new wine. My dad and uncles took the squeezings and poured it thru a funnel into the barrel, skins, pits and twigs included. The family drank the wine in the other for a good portion of the year. The wine got strained thru cheesecloth when it was poured into a serving jug.The wine was a dinner time staple. Even us kids got a little, well diluted with soda. I believe the barrels held 25 gallons or so.

Hi Chief, thanks for sharing the background info. I have a number of buddies who served in the Silent Service. I've been in a few boats and admire all of your dedication.

I too will be following your build. I'll be interested in how you hide the wood grain. I've used sanding sealers to some effect, but am not happy with my results.

Somewhere down this road, you may want to get an ultrasonic cleaner. They can be had inexpensively and they have a dual use. One is cleaning your airbrush hardware (caked on paint, usually). The other is the Admiral's "bling". Cleans the stuff nicely. Just use the correct solvents for the jewelry.

For the airbrush parts, I use Windex (ammonia version). My old Badger 350 had gunk caked in the nozzle but a few runs in the cleaner took them off the nozzle. There are other solvents used for ultrasonic, but I've only used Windex.

Excellent work. Keep on truckin' with your fine work.

Tuff, I agree with the Cap'n. Riveting appears large. You might want to check out Dubz' Syren build, starting on page 9. He makes up a punch to emboss rivets.

The boatyard is alive and well.

I got in a stock of .020" or 1/64" strips the other day. Conditioned and stained the strips and transom. They're drying over night now. I will be covering the laser branded Transom on Sunday. And attaching said transom to the mold. Man, it has been way too long.

The planking I stained last week dried OK. I've been reading the kit instructions and on line tutorials for planking. And the 5 or 6 build logs, too. So much information, so few remaining functioning brain cells.    

Well, where are the bungs & plugs, Mr Squirrel-meister?   Inquiring minds want to know.

This is quite the tour de force, Matt. Well done.

Bravo Zulu, Chief. Excellent info. Thanks from one Cold Warrior to another..

I've used one for a while and like it. I also use a lighted magnifier attached to my work bench. I'd say the best thing to do is increase the lighting you work under. Old eyes don't adapt as well as younger eyes.

Those reading glasses you can buy in pharmacies work, too. Just try before you buy.

Do cricket balls have seams on them, like baseballs do? Different rotations make 'em do different motions (curve, slider, knuckler).

Matt, excellent work, as always.

Where will you be going next, with the build.

I've used their red on plastic and resin kits, no problem with adhering. Good brick color and OK for some lower hulls of ships (IJN, AFAIR). And it's a thin coat.

Of course, I only spray this stuff outside and mask/glove up.