Canute

Hornet, great little mod to hang the serving rope on. I'll have to make one for my machine.

Superb, sir! 

Cap'n, how about using a toothpaste or similar tube. Or smooth surfaced paper napkins. They can look like canvas. Make some lumpy, paint in a linen color. Or aluminum foil.

Matt, yea, sort of like what was on a lot of American Civil War ships, on both sides. If you look at the bows of USS Choctaw or CSS Virginia, you'll see what I mean. The Rebs used them more than the Union, but most Brown Water Union ships had rams.

Rams prior to steam were kind of big, thinking way back to the Greeks & Romans. Although, the Mediterranean galleys had rams. I just don't know what their configuration was.

Ramming, to my mind, is a way to prevent the other ship from moving; but you then have to patch a hole to take it back to your "lair" and remove the cargo. Would a pirate strip a ship on the high seas and then sink the hulk? I don't know; guess I'm applying too much of my tactical training and over-thinking a fun project.

You'll have to find out if the little blighters are adding sweep ports, if they are adding a ram. Tough to back up once you ram another ship, if all you have are sails..

Lookin' good, Cap'n!  "Mo betta" with billowing sails. Alas, now you need to get cracking to populate the launch.

May I smite it with my Enfield .58 cal. Then apply cold steel for insurance purposes.

Oh, goodie. I like surprises!

Tasmanian, white glue will give you more working time with the PE. Even the thickest cyano will invariably set up before you get the PE in position.

Use a micro-brush to carefully apply some white glue where you intend to apply the PE part, let the glue thicken/set up and then attach the PE part. Put the micro-brush in water when you aren't using it to apply glue.

After you have attached your PE parts, go back and put a dot of cyano at the attachment point with a pin or unraveled paperclip. Better control of the glue.

Kind of a belt and suspenders approach, but it works well.

Another glue you might look for is called Canopy glue. The RC airplane crowd use it to glue canopies on . It looks to me like a thickened white glue.

Once you seal the wood, the stains, etc., don't work. It will be blotchy. You may want to redo you test with sealed wood.

maybe try heating the juice up to enhance the reaction? Might want to do it in a double boiler setup to control the speed of heating, since you are first just heating up water.

Application of heat usually speeds up reactions like these. You're just cooking the steel shot in lemon juice

Hope the boiler folks gave you a good start time. We get companies that give you an 8 hour window for their work.

Look at it as Unintended consequences, you're getting work done on Convulsion.

May I pull up a seat and follow along? It's a favorite era of mine.

Looks like you have some space amidships for those carronades. And your stern extension is looking good, too.

Those two Nutz brothers are short-fused! And bad tempered.   Makes for good P-rates I guess.

Careful over gunning that beauty, making it top heavy. Swivels for anti-personnel are probably OK. More carronades, while cool looking, may be pushing it. Put a couple midships, maybe make 'em pivot to either side? Ship's for taking booty, not blastin' boats out of the water, eh?

Al, good to see you back. I, too, am building a Bounty Launch, though I'm only at the start of planking.. So, I've been reading all the MSW build logs. All have useful techniques. Thanks for sharing.

Very nice work, Ken. I too will be following along with your build. Thanks for sharing.

Dee Dee, excellent discussion on fabric selection and sail making for this tyro. I'll have to get the Admiral's sewing machine repaired now. We have a Jo-Ann's Fabric locally, but Asheville is just up the road and may have a source similar to yours.

Matt, carronade looks really good!

Steve and Matt, those screws are a good resource, although they may not be long enough for the elevating screw on the carronade.

Jonny, surprised the CA didn't glue the resin parts. Wonder what kind of resin it is, to be impervious? I usually try to get resin parts positioned with a tacky glue, then wick some CA into the joint via capillary action. The tacky glue won't glue resin; it just gets the parts lined up. I've also used some real sticky glues available here in the US . One named Goo, the other is Barge Cement. Both are sticky, but very smelly. Now I use a brand called Aleene's Tacky Glue. Kind of like the glue on a Post-it Note.

Matt, guns look good.

To add, you might look at tiny bolts, say 00-90 or 0-80, for elevating screws for the carronades. I've been digging into the MS USN Picket Boat and got the 4 article series from Ships in Scale by Kurt Van Dahm. For the 1:24 launch's 12 pound Dahlgren cannon, he used a 2-56 threaded rod for the screw. Check in a model railroad shop, if you can find one, for these bolts.

Matt, I'm thumbing thru my copy of "Arming the Fleet" by Spence Tucker, Naval Institute Press. (What do you expect from a Weapons Officer?). Has such exotica as carriage dimensions.

Anyway, apparently in the 1770s, the 3 pdr went from a size of 4'6", 7 cwt-1 qrs-7 lbs to 3'6" 3cwt-3 qrs-o lbs. Found it in Table 10 on page 88 of said book. That was sourced from John Muller's Treatise of Artillery, Whitehall, 1780.

That being said, I'd expect the privateer/pirate to ship whatever guns they could get their grubby paws on, so the Cap'n  thoughts are a bulls-eye!

Very nice work!

Great work, Augie. Good technique abounds.

Up here in the Smokies, we can work outside, so we can enjoy the fresh air and do a little modeling. I do wish I had screened in my deck area, though.

Good luck working thru the task list and I hope the Admiral feels better.