Canute

Well done on the coppering Jesse. And a happy belated birthday.

Very nice, Grant. I've bookmarked this for my someday Amati/Victory Granado Build.

Nice save, J.

I bought some items from a Canadian firm a while back. They sat in Chicago for 2 weeks. The actual transit time was 1 day in Ontario and 2 days from Chicago to western NC.

Get well soon. There's a bunch of us putting out those good vibrations. :D

Nicely done, Adam. Tools need to become extensions of our hands, so we don't have to continuously think about them.

Coming in hot. I'll settle for a seat in the next row back! Paging Sjors for the popcorn machine. An adult libation, anyone? I've got some Oktoberfest.

Thanks for sharing, Ryland.

OK, who took pictures and wants to dazzle the rest of us? The whole (model ship) world wonders?

That could work.   Patiently awaiting pix.

Yeah, lets. I have some of my model RR stuff, which is mostly wood and card. It's just not ships.

Looking good, Dave. I'd favor the red trucks. Carolina blue would be a bit too...?

Looks great, Mobbsie. Two thumbs up.

Yes, they would. The compressed gas flows out smoothly, since there is no pulsing from the compressor piston.

Jesse, looks good. At normal viewing distances, the average bear won't even realize the plates aren't perfect.

Dave, that's great news.Congrats.

J, start checking model railroad shops. Some may have these rivets. One brand I've used is Bowser, up in Montoursville, PA. They may still be carrying these rivets. Or their commercial outlet, Toy Train Heaven. Precision Scale is another brand; they're up in Idaho/Montana.

here's one link: http://www.toytrainheaven.com/.sc/ms/sch/ee/2?search=valve+gear&go.x=27&go.y=10

Happy to assist, David. I'm not ready for an HMV kit, yet.

Duffer, no pictures showed on my end either.

J, lay your rivet with the head down on a hard surface. Put the Stephenson links over them in appropriate order. Take a thin nail/brad and put the point into the open end of the rivet, if so configured. Tap the nail head gently to flare the river out.

If it's a solid rivet, take a finishing nail and put the dimple on the head over the end of the rivet and tap the pointy end of that nail.

The rivet has to be flared to hold the rods together and work. Go very slowly; tap and check your progress. Too hard and the rivet flares too much and you end up drilling it out and starting over. This is how I've built a few steam engine kits, although those rivets were open for doing the first method. My Picket Boat kit is stored away and not quickly accessed to check the rivets. This should allow you to make working valve gear.

Jay, great idea. Usually work for me. And that area is beautiful.

Mario, seeing your work on the keel parts has started my creative juices for this work. Some good ideas for a relatively new ship builder. Thanks!

Thanks, guys. Much appreciated. The Admiral will be taking me out to dinner somewhere, when she gets off work. As a "gentleman of leisure", time off is easier to schedule, although I do a fair amount of volunteer work with my church and the County Sheriff.

Alclad II paints has a blue green lacquer window tint for spraying onto modern passenger car windows. See: http://alclad2.com/finishes/transparent/

Go 'Heels! :D

Nicely done with those colors, Dave.