Canute

I have now finished the engine.  As is often the case, the exhaust was a bit of a struggle and who knows if the ends of the headers are in the right place.  I guess I'll find out later in the build.   For the "enthusiast models", Fujimi includes a stand for the engine if you wish to display it outside the car.  I used that stand for the photos but I intend to install the engine in the car.   I will likely add more hoses and such when I do that.  In the pictures you can see that I added spark plug wires.  Yea, maybe they should have been red instead of blue but that is what I had.
 
And yes that exhaust wraps around the front of the engine.  The engine is transverse mounted and there are additional pipes to connect to mufflers that will be to the left of the engine as viewed in the first picture.
 




I've also done more prep work on the body and various loose body panels.  I first primed the "inside" with the alclad black primer/microfiller.  That leaves a nice semi gloss black that I may not even paint over.  I taped down the body panels to protect the black; for the body I did not bother taping over the black as most of it will not be visible, and then sprayed Splash paints light grey surfacer.  I'll use Splash paints Rossa Corsa...I think I have enough left over for this car after using it on the Ferrari 330 P4 I built.
 
The panel that is third from the left will be tricky as it spans the interior and exterior of the car.  It is the frame around the engine compartment opening.  If I glue it in first, I think it will be difficult to get coverage of the interior parts.  But if I glue it in after painting, there will be an ugly visible seam.  I think I will have to paint the interior part (to the right in the photo) first then glue the part in and user filler on the seam, then paint the rest of the body.  I will also glue on the front underside (far right piece) before painting the body.  But even before all of that, I plan to paint the interior headliner area and then mask the entire inner part of the body before spraying the red paint.
 

An entertaining update on getting the work holder. After Bobs email I decided to order the Walmart Vice as well partly to see how a $14 one compares to a $30 one. I got home last night and found two packages waiting for me. Walmart and Micromark stuff arrived on the same day. The Walmart Vice looks fine, not an heirloom tool but entirely serviceable. Inside the Micromark package was ….. a small set of brass clamps. They sent the wrong item. And you can only contact them vis email.. I’m glad I ordered the Wally one, at least I can continue 
alan

EG, yeah an Indy car might be a draw,
 
First builds of a new line can be sporting, Craig. 😄I'm thrashing with some MikroMir Russian sub kits. Limited run kits, no locator pins, skimpy instructions. How many parts can a sub have in 1:350 scale? An exercise is filling gaps with styrene plugs, followed by Mr Surfacer. 🙄

Well done on #1. We can wait while you handle the medical issues. Talk to you later.

EG, yeah an Indy car might be a draw,
 
First builds of a new line can be sporting, Craig. 😄I'm thrashing with some MikroMir Russian sub kits. Limited run kits, no locator pins, skimpy instructions. How many parts can a sub have in 1:350 scale? An exercise is filling gaps with styrene plugs, followed by Mr Surfacer. 🙄

Well done on #1. We can wait while you handle the medical issues. Talk to you later.

hi yes i will pop some photos on tomorrow, my location is south coast UK.

@Jaager 
  Thank you very much for the information!

Phil,  @GrandpaPhil
 
AAMM is the source for another (two actually) Polar ship  -but South Pole  -  L'Astrolabe   (and her sister La Zelee).
 
The S.I.  has plans for the four USN Polar explorers at the South Polar region at the same time -  Vincennes, Porpose II,  Peacocok II  
- the Flying Fish -ex. Independance pilot schooner that is the S.I. plan is also available for free-  the John McKeon from the Wm H. Webb folio.  -  to actually match Flying Fish the breadth needs to be increased 20' 7" to 22' 6',  the depth 7' 6" to 8' 8" ,  the length 70'  to 85' 6"    Increasing the Body plan by 110% is all that the breadth and depth require.   Increasing the length by a fixed percent is not without some unwanted distortion.  Just increasing the breadth alone and making the 54 spaces 8" instead of 6" lengthens the hull without distorting the stem and stern.
 
Beagle also took a shot at the region I believe.  For this, I think starting with ZAZ5137 and following  Marquardt's demonstration of the alterations.....

I know.  They are essentially the same ships.  They even share the same plans in NMM.  Either way, they fill a void in the kit market.
 
I’ve never bought or built an Occre kit.  I have thought about buying their kit of the Endurance or the other Polar ships.
 
La Belle Poule I would build from the AAMM plans if I were going to build it.

I totally agree!

That looks like a quick and fun build that would make a great desktop model.

Very short update,
 
I went ahead and added the front wheels and tires, there really isn't any improvement I can make on what was designed before so I when ahead and used those....
 
Here is the result...


There is one thing I did do, I added the camber to the wheels that the original car had... This was a simple matter of tilting the wheels outwards at the top.... The state of automobile steering engineering was almost complete at the time the Wasp was built Proportional Steering, Toe, and Camber had been figured out, the only thing left was Castor.... It would be the early 30's before castoring was understood and universally applied... Until then, steering took actual effort on the part of the driver and needed constant monitoring, one moments distraction and you would find yourself heading in a different direction than you intended...
 
Camber....

Combined with Toe-In and Proportional Steering, Camber allowed the centrifugal sideways force of turning to be applied to downward force as the car turned when the wheels turned, the sideway lean of the inside wheel would become greater in the direction of the turn and less on the wheel outside of the turn... This had the effect of the inside tire pulling the car into the turn against centrifugal force while the outer tire holds the line of the turn.... (this is why in a high speed car making a turn has the outside tire blow out, the car makes an immediate turn in the direction of the blowout, the outer tire is no longer there to hold the line of the turn)
 
Simple applied geometry is all steering is... And Camber was the final part to steering being an advantage in holding the road...
 
I guess I'll head to the rear of the car, I need her to be on all four wheels now.....
 
Onwards...

Thank you Richard...
I was trained in paper and pencil a few decades ago when computers were something engineers only dreamed about, CNC had just arrived in the form of punched tape and I was introduced to doing indexed drawing... (dimensioning a drawing from a single base point) to make it easier to program the tape puncher/reader....
 
The software is actually easy to learn, it just takes practice to get used to it... When doing paper you really have to have the gift of visualization to truly understand what your designing, be able to visualize your part in 3-D... With software that takes the  need for visualization skills to the screen, which eliminates the only real natural drawing talent one needs... All 3D is directly visualized on the screen immediately... The other part is figuring out what type of 3-D drawing you need to learn... the artsy side or the numbers side...  I do the numbers, (engineering) side... There are all kinds of 3D artsy websites out there where the artists display their creations, not too many on the numbers side... But then the artsy side is faster, you don't need the accuracy the numbers side does...
 
Like any software in this field, the initial learning curve is tall, but it doesn't take that long to learn the basics.. I'm absolutely convinced that if someone has an interest and a need for computer 3-D drawing, it's relatively easy to learn and anyone with the aforementioned interest can learn it fairly quickly... (just make sure you got the right software to fit your interest, engineering or artsy they are not the same, modelers generally fare better with the engineering side, but the artsy side can do it as well, just takes more work)
 
Again thank you and welcome to the Log...

https://www.google.com/amp/s/amp.cnn.com/cnn/2024/04/23/business/baltimore-bridge-collapse-lawsuit-hnk-intl
 
And there come the lawsuits.... As if they could have handled it any different.
Can't quite blame the city for it, but on the other hand, these are the risks of maritime transportation. If you're not prepared to accept it, better to close your port then. 
In general some of the most outdated maritime infrastructure can be found in US, time for them to get moving on this. Also the reason the largest containerships nowadays can't even call any port in US. Their closed market, including in dredging, creates a huge disadvantage compared to the rest of the world.

So over lunch today I walked up to the local hardware store (located dangerously close to my house) and picked up a tap & die set to resolve the mounting question asked above - thanks again Dave and VTHokiEE! It took about 1 minute to tap the mounting holes I drilled out yesterday and I was very relieved to find that I hadn't drilled the holes out too wide for the 6-32 tap. A small step, but this lightened up a huge area of ignorance for me in terms of this aspect of modelling. Here are some photos, just to liven things up a bit, though they may not be of much intrinsic interest. The second shot is of the tiny puncture made by the awl - hard to get focus on this.....
hamilton

Thanks Davec! Very helpful suggestions all around! I agree that all of a sudden my little hobby shop looks pretty pro with the drill press set-up! In fact, I've already got some ideas about re-organising and renovating the work area to allow for more permanent tool set-up - right now, I store my power tools and bring them out when needed - it's not too bad, but it's getting to the point where the time I spend taking things out, setting them up and putting them back relative to the time I spend at the bench is getting annoyingly skewed....but I have a fence to re-do and a deck to resurface first or it'll be gunplay and gravestones over here.....
hamilton

I can't remember what sized nut and bolt I used.  I wanted a size with an available bolt long enough to go through a pedestal when the model was complete.  I cut slots in the keel with my mill.  I had to file down the sides of the nuts to fit in the slot and epoxied them in place.  I thought about threading the wood, but didn't have a tap and die, and was worried that if I removed and reattached the model to the base too many times that the threads in the wood would wear out.  
 
I got a drill press for similar reasons this Christmas.  I've used it a few times.  It looks really nice in the shop.  As long as I have the tools needed to meet my wife's around the house and craft needs she's pretty forgiving of my tool buying.  I scored a lot of points cutting foam board for her this weekend.  I think she thinks I used my entire workshop doing it - I won't tell her it was just a knife and straightedge.
 
The cross section is a great project and builds into a beautiful model.  I'm looking forward to following along.

Thanks VTHokiEE and Greg - thanks for this - I'm a little worried now that the holes I drilled in the keel assembly are too wide - but I will follow up on these suggestions and see! I see now that I'll have to get myself a tap & die set! The Admiral has started to levy what she calls a "practicality tax" on my tool purchases....meaning that I need to start using the things I buy for more than ship modelling.....starting to realise how much my modelling practice depends on the the policy directions of the Central Bank of Canada....
hamilton

I use 6-32 threaded rod and 6/32 Acorn nut or knurled knob. The rod comes in 12" lengths so it can be trimmed to a custom size. I thread the acorn nut onto one end. You will drill two hoes in the building board that correspond with the holes in the keel. make them slightly larger than the keel holes to allow for adjustments on the building board. Do not tap these holes. Now insert the threaded rods with the acorn nut on the end through a washer, then building board and thread into the keel. continue until the acorn nut snugs against the washer. Mark the exit of the threaded rod where atop the heel and cut flush. I don't glue mine into place as it us helpful to remove the hull sometimes (especially when fairing). I do glue the acorn nut onto the threaded rod once the final position of the threaded rod is determined (using Loctite).

I simply tapped the keel and screwed the nuts into it. This method is referenced in the associated PowerPoint on their website. 
 
I’m certain that you can do it other ways as well. Looking forward to your build! 

Indeed   brother    -  it  is  kind  of  long  at  89  pages  and  over   117K  likes,   here   it  is    -    
OC.
 

Hey OC - no diorama for me - I do not have the patience for painting figures at scale and my eyes are just bad enough for ship modelling! Though I see from your signature that you have both the patience and the skill! Is this project documented somewhere here or elsewhere?
hamilton

EG, yeah an Indy car might be a draw,
 
First builds of a new line can be sporting, Craig. 😄I'm thrashing with some MikroMir Russian sub kits. Limited run kits, no locator pins, skimpy instructions. How many parts can a sub have in 1:350 scale? An exercise is filling gaps with styrene plugs, followed by Mr Surfacer. 🙄