CharlieZardoz

Hi everyone just an update, here it is a 1 mm strip! This one was made of basswood but if I was able to do basswood this precise, harder woods should be even easier. I followed the advice of 3/8" by 1mm and then cut the strip. I wouldn't say I'm great at it yet but I have the means now to keep at it and practice. Thank you all for assistance in helping me understand to usage of the machine. What a smooth cut! 😊

Hi everyone just an update, here it is a 1 mm strip! This one was made of basswood but if I was able to do basswood this precise, harder woods should be even easier. I followed the advice of 3/8" by 1mm and then cut the strip. I wouldn't say I'm great at it yet but I have the means now to keep at it and practice. Thank you all for assistance in helping me understand to usage of the machine. What a smooth cut! 😊

Any time your push stick gets bit by the blade, it's time to do some serious analysis to identify why that happened. Better a "sacrificial" push stick gets bit than your flesh, but even so, it ain't supposed to happen.  

Hi all! So I now have a Byrnes saw and have very little idea on how to use it. Yay! The ultimate goal is to make fine precise wood strips 1mm by 1mm thick so the question is what is the process needed to get to such a specific and small wood strip? Like how should the machine be set up for something so small and precise? I'm open to suggestions and words of wisdom and experience resources to watch or read if i need a sliding tray, ive already ordered a calibre. Ill add pics of what I currently have (blades and otherwise) shortly.

Lou I have many sizes and types of milled wood already. So let's say I use a 3" by 1/8" wood piece and want to make several strips so yeah the method you mentioned sounds what I assumed to be. And what was said about the blades its simply a matter of practice and I am unsure how to make something so precise as a 1mm cut. Like what sort of push stick is used for something that tiny? 

Ok i ordered the sliding table and tilting table attachments as well. I think that's everything. I'll add my progress on here until I get to my desired result. Thanks everyone for the support! 😊

Cutting strips that small is certainly possible, but.....    some wood species are fine for this, others, not so much.  Sharp blade for sure, (new saw from Jim, so no doubt a good blade)     Or, if you are having trouble getting the size perfect, cut to about 1.5 or even larger, then using a thickness sander (Jim makes a great one) you can safely reduce the size to within a thousandth of an inch or so.  Just another way to get to the end result.  
Allan

I often use a #2 pencil with an eraser as a push stick. The eraser side down on the wood. I also make up push sticks as I go. It only takes a few seconds. Rule One: Never reach over a table saw blade. Rule Two: Never stand in line with the blade. (Avoid getting hit by a kick-back.) Rule Three: Always use a push stick when ripping.

Hi all! So I now have a Byrnes saw and have very little idea on how to use it. Yay! The ultimate goal is to make fine precise wood strips 1mm by 1mm thick so the question is what is the process needed to get to such a specific and small wood strip? Like how should the machine be set up for something so small and precise? I'm open to suggestions and words of wisdom and experience resources to watch or read if i need a sliding tray, ive already ordered a calibre. Ill add pics of what I currently have (blades and otherwise) shortly.

Ok i ordered the sliding table and tilting table attachments as well. I think that's everything. I'll add my progress on here until I get to my desired result. Thanks everyone for the support! 😊

As a newbie to the Byrnes saw (although I've used a larger saw quite a lot), I don't think you need a push stick that small. You would be cutting 1mm strips from a wider strip that is 1mm thick. You keep cutting strips off until the remainder is too narrow to work with. The remaining strip will be wider than 1mm. How narrow a strip would be left will come with practice but I'm assuming several mm. 
 

Lou I have many sizes and types of milled wood already. So let's say I use a 3" by 1/8" wood piece and want to make several strips so yeah the method you mentioned sounds what I assumed to be. And what was said about the blades its simply a matter of practice and I am unsure how to make something so precise as a 1mm cut. Like what sort of push stick is used for something that tiny? 

Hi all! So I now have a Byrnes saw and have very little idea on how to use it. Yay! The ultimate goal is to make fine precise wood strips 1mm by 1mm thick so the question is what is the process needed to get to such a specific and small wood strip? Like how should the machine be set up for something so small and precise? I'm open to suggestions and words of wisdom and experience resources to watch or read if i need a sliding tray, ive already ordered a calibre. Ill add pics of what I currently have (blades and otherwise) shortly.

Thanks guys! Yeah all of this makes sense. Bob by sled do you mean this sliding table pictured? 
 
While I'm at it any other parts I should consider? I have many blades and the attachments you see. 

Hi all! So I now have a Byrnes saw and have very little idea on how to use it. Yay! The ultimate goal is to make fine precise wood strips 1mm by 1mm thick so the question is what is the process needed to get to such a specific and small wood strip? Like how should the machine be set up for something so small and precise? I'm open to suggestions and words of wisdom and experience resources to watch or read if i need a sliding tray, ive already ordered a calibre. Ill add pics of what I currently have (blades and otherwise) shortly.

First read the instructions that came with the saw. (I'm not saying this to be snarky. You'd be amazed how many people in this world never read the instructions... including my Dearly Beloved.) The instructions should show you how to set up your saw. You will probably want to move the fence to the other side of the blade and you'll want to find a place to keep your miter gauge until you are ready to use it besides where you've got it in the photo. 
 
Then, start with the YouTube video below and then keep watching the basic full-size table saw operation videos on this page: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+a+table+saw  The operation of the Byrnes saw is the same as that for a full-size table saw. Pay close attention to the safe operation rules. The Byrnes Saw is small and quiet, but no less worthy of respect than a full-size table saw. It will injure in all the same ways, albeit perhaps on a smaller scale. 
 
To get the most from your saw, you will probably want to also acquire the factory-made cross-cutting sled that will make short repetitive cross cuts easily and with extreme accuracy. 
 
This advice may seem a bit simplistic, but a good command of the basics will get you off on the right foot. 
 
 
 
 

Charlie,
 
First thing- Take out the little peg that fits into the miter gage to index it at 90 and 45 degrees.  Paint it with the brightest paint that you have.  When you drop it on the floor, you’ll have a fighting chance of finding it.
 
As usual don’t ask me how Iknow this.
 
Roger

Hi all! So I now have a Byrnes saw and have very little idea on how to use it. Yay! The ultimate goal is to make fine precise wood strips 1mm by 1mm thick so the question is what is the process needed to get to such a specific and small wood strip? Like how should the machine be set up for something so small and precise? I'm open to suggestions and words of wisdom and experience resources to watch or read if i need a sliding tray, ive already ordered a calibre. Ill add pics of what I currently have (blades and otherwise) shortly.

Hi all! So I now have a Byrnes saw and have very little idea on how to use it. Yay! The ultimate goal is to make fine precise wood strips 1mm by 1mm thick so the question is what is the process needed to get to such a specific and small wood strip? Like how should the machine be set up for something so small and precise? I'm open to suggestions and words of wisdom and experience resources to watch or read if i need a sliding tray, ive already ordered a calibre. Ill add pics of what I currently have (blades and otherwise) shortly.

Hi all, this week has been about reorganizing my work space with the new tools provided. Part of this has been building a shelf for my various hulls. While I haven't posted this I actually spend alot of time making frames for various ships, modifying plans etc. The process is easy and in time while i plan to build them all my current environment doesn't give me alot of time and space for detail work as of yet. 
 
Hulls from bottom to top are 
30 ton revenue cutter Active (in the box)
Sultana
Halifax
Armed virginia sloop (just made based of ms purchased plans)
50 ton cutter (Monroe)
And 70 ton (Vigilant)
On the top marine model privateer which will probably become an Eagle class revenue cutter (in Chappelle's book the unidentified 75 footer of 1798).
 
I also have 2 frames on table the constructo Enterprise (aka Vixen) and Dikar Lawrence which i will also add to the lot at some point. Overall this will be a much better space for crafts when time allows. New laptop also helps me create laser programs for ship parts on the go! 😉

Hi all, this week has been about reorganizing my work space with the new tools provided. Part of this has been building a shelf for my various hulls. While I haven't posted this I actually spend alot of time making frames for various ships, modifying plans etc. The process is easy and in time while i plan to build them all my current environment doesn't give me alot of time and space for detail work as of yet. 
 
Hulls from bottom to top are 
30 ton revenue cutter Active (in the box)
Sultana
Halifax
Armed virginia sloop (just made based of ms purchased plans)
50 ton cutter (Monroe)
And 70 ton (Vigilant)
On the top marine model privateer which will probably become an Eagle class revenue cutter (in Chappelle's book the unidentified 75 footer of 1798).
 
I also have 2 frames on table the constructo Enterprise (aka Vixen) and Dikar Lawrence which i will also add to the lot at some point. Overall this will be a much better space for crafts when time allows. New laptop also helps me create laser programs for ship parts on the go! 😉

Hi all! Sorry its been so long been toiling away on planking and just finished the left side. Since the shape is so wedge shaped on this boat alot of planks needed to be spiled. That said it taught me alot and I think I did a reasonably good job for a first timer. Now starting the treenails using an awl, colored putty to fill the holes then a color pencil to add some detailing. Got more to go but thought I'd share

Hi all! I totally forgot I put this one together and thought I'd share. It's a Talos style size comparison chart of various small ships schooners etc. I was going to wait and add the HMS Swift as well but figured ah let me put it up now and see what you all think (Swift would be just a bit larger than Berbice). Look at how small the 31 Doughty cutter actually is!

Hi all, this week has been about reorganizing my work space with the new tools provided. Part of this has been building a shelf for my various hulls. While I haven't posted this I actually spend alot of time making frames for various ships, modifying plans etc. The process is easy and in time while i plan to build them all my current environment doesn't give me alot of time and space for detail work as of yet. 
 
Hulls from bottom to top are 
30 ton revenue cutter Active (in the box)
Sultana
Halifax
Armed virginia sloop (just made based of ms purchased plans)
50 ton cutter (Monroe)
And 70 ton (Vigilant)
On the top marine model privateer which will probably become an Eagle class revenue cutter (in Chappelle's book the unidentified 75 footer of 1798).
 
I also have 2 frames on table the constructo Enterprise (aka Vixen) and Dikar Lawrence which i will also add to the lot at some point. Overall this will be a much better space for crafts when time allows. New laptop also helps me create laser programs for ship parts on the go! 😉

Aha thank you very much and appreciate the compliments on both counts 😊 Sadly theatre (yes to the "re") is on pause for this year but art creation is not.
 
Ill post a new update shortly ive been mulling over the lifeboat question. Where would it go on such a ship? Not on deck it would interfere with the Canon. The back lacks enough structural support. If you look at this image of an 1829 cutter of similar design you can see the back had a higher rear bulwark.

(the pilot boat Achilles also had this feature) and no doubt the back could support davits for a life boat.

My opinion is that the Doughty cutters were likely highly modified after launch or at least their upper workings, so likely either the pivot gun or rope stanchion railings were tossed soon after. The increased bulwark on this 1829 cutter and less extreme bow also suggests this. Also they likely continued to vary as the years progressed 1815-1825? ones that launched later likely corrected the inadequacies of the earlier batches.
 
The original design with a low toe rail and rope stanchion...

 
And some variations with improved bulwarks below

 
This one above has a full solid bulwark some swivels as well as a raised pivot canon. 
This one above has canon ports which was probably common on the larger 80 ton versions however doubt that pivot would still be relevant?
 

And here's a version with a half bulwark added to the front. Which also would likely help with water washing on the deck. Another interesting variation.
 
Since I have 3 to work on for this diorama I am inclined to mixing it up a bit. But not sure which will have what yet. Open to opinions on the lifeboat question. Other than just tugging it along possibly a half bulwark in the back and then i can have the swivels as well. Considering Active was alone for the period immediately following the war of 1812 she must have been overworked and highly adaptable to any situation they found themselves in. 🤔
 
One thing I am certain about it that the toe rail bulwark probably had a cap rail. All the models show this however the Doughty plans do not. Most of the models show oar locks so logic dictates that there would need to be enough surface area to support them. 

Here is me testing out some bulwark heights now.