davec

Greg – thanks! I am using yours as a guide, and will aim for something similar in terms of half fully finished and half frame exposed. It will be a mirror image and include one gun. Druxey – you are as always incredibly kind. I took the picture at an angle that hid the uncorrectable low spots. As they aren’t near the ends or gunport, the planking should effectively hide them. There are also a few frames that are misaligned vertically, also not visible at an angle. I kept knocking them loose when fairing, and after regluing the same frames multiple times, they migrated. Again, mostly on one side, and soon to be hidden forever. I’ve been having a good week off from work. My kids are home, but sleep until late, so I have had workshop time to begin planking. I’m going to work my way up to the lower deck clamps, then stop and treenail. I made 7/8” boxwood treenails. I’m hoping the end grain gives enough contrast that they are visible against the boxwood planks without having the measles effect I have had on prior models. On the Rattlesnake I used cherry, which was too visible, and on Hannah I used boxwood, but was using cheap drill bits that left a burn mark at the edge of the hole, and was using an old drawplate that only got me down to about 1 ¼”. I got a Byrnes drawplate and am able to go smaller, and got better drill bits and lower speed drill, so now get clean holes. It looked OK on the test piece. Best wishes for the new year, Dave

Even though it has been 2 years, 9 months, and 29 days since the last post, work didn’t actually stop. The framing is finished.! One side looks OK to leave uncovered, and the other is begging to be planked (meaning I can’t true some of the frames without either completely disassembling and replacing them, or thinning the others too much). Planking one side was the original plan, and the bad areas will get covered, so this is OK. Few things of note: Future builders should be comfortable that the project is doable even if you only have around 90 minutes per week to work on it. It was a fun project to do a little bit at a time. The time limitations were responsible for the problems on one side. At some point ‘perfect’ became the enemy of ‘good enough’, and I stopped doing redo’s. It was too disheartening to go long periods of time with no apparent progress. I think I have defined some sort of record for how slow progress on a ship model can go without actually stopping. I plan to fit it out, and hope to have more time to work on it over the holidays. David and Greg sent me a copy of their instructions, which are super. The framing was all new to me while most of the rest is similar to things I've done before. Happy holidays! Dave

Brett - both oil and water base work just fine, but look very different. Oil really brings out the color of the wood. The water based doesn't. I use both. I use the water based on holly. The oil based gives it a yello w tinge, while the water base preserves the white. I use the oil based on everything else. Dave

I'm back to rigging my Hannah, and I'm trying to sort out the gammoning, which is different than larger ships. On the Hahn model in the US Navy Museum, the gammoning wraps around the bowsprit and stem (picture at http://www.dlumberyard.com/shipkits.html - it can be seen in the lower right image). There does not appear to be any crossing of wraps as on larger ships, or wrapping of the end of the rope around the gammoning. Marquard's Global Schooner book describes this for ships with small cutwater and has a similar illustration, so it does appear to be accurate, although no specific reference is provided. My question is how are the two ends of the rope fastened? I suppose it could be started by passing through an eye splice, but how is the final end of the line fastened? I'd appreciate any thoughts. thanks! Dave

Hi Len - I've never seen dimensions for serving, but you could probably safely use the dimensions for seizings. I have attached a picture off the web of the constitution that shows both served line, and unserved line with seizings, and the dimensions look the same. You probably want to use something really fine as it may look wrong if oversized. I'm building a schooner in 1/48 scale, and will probably use 4-0 or 6-0 silk. Dave

It does make nice cuts. I've been experimenting trying to adapt the jig that comes with it (which works OK for 1/2" or greater). I'll let you know if I figure out something that works.

I have the grizzly. You are correct to be wary. It has been somewhat disappointing. The main problem is that it is very difficult to align the piece so that you get parallel thin strips of the width you want. There is no way to align the sheet so that cuts are perpendicular, and it is difficult to see the strip to ensure the appropriate width. I haven't figured out a good way to deal with this, so I get a lot of waste. The instructions say that you shouldn't cut strips narrower than for times the thickness, but that hasn't been a problem.. If you have better luck with one of the ones you are looking at please let me know. Dave

I don't think you will be able to find them, unless you find someone willing to part with a used set. Preac tool company made a great thickness sander and small table saw, and previously made the small c-clamps in the picture. Charlie Files who ran Preac passed away last year, and it appears the company has closed. The clamps had not been available for several years even while Preac was still in business. Dave

Jim, Pat and Jay, Thanks for your comments. Hannah was early 1770’s American, so I think it is safe to assume it followed English 19th century practice. I have spent a while researching the rigging, and haven’t come across anything that said practices were different in the colonies. I’m trying to use cotton throughout except for silk for the serving. I used synthetics in the past (particularly morope) and had difficulty having it keep shape for coils. I also want to be able to dye it myself. So far my experiments with 4-0 silk and white dmc cordonet crochet thread have worked out well in terms of coloring – the different diameter crochet threads and the silk all end up the same color with the stain. I got the rope walk so I could get the color, size, and twist all correct. The only rigging that is over 4” circumference is standing rigging – shrouds and stays, so if it would be historically consistent to use left twist on the medium and larger diameter lines, it would make life a lot easier. I suspect the difference in strength that Pat was talking about may relate to the alternating direction of the strands in cable laid vs same direction in hawser laid- the difference is more than just left vs right twist. It would definitely change flexibility. I won’t use cable laid for any running rigging. Dave

Question on cable (left/s twist) vs rope (right/z twist): Much of the larger caliber line, particularly standing rigging, was cable laid. Is this determined by size of the line or its use? As I start to make the line for my 1/48 Hannah, I’m trying to sort out which lines are cable laid and which are rope. Are all lines over a certain diameter/circumference cable laid? This would make sense as cable is made from rope, and it would seem hard to make large diameter line that is right twist (seems like it would need to be left twist, made from smaller right twist ropes). It would also be easier to model. As all my source material is right twist (DMC Cordonett), I can use it off the spool for lines up to about 4” circumference (.025" scale diameter). I have a Byrnes ropewalk, which does a nice job making left twist line from right twist material, and which I could make cable laid line for anything above .025" diameter. It doesn’t do so well making right twist line from right twist thread. It will unwind the strands, then rewind in the opposite direction, but is very finicky and hard to keep even. If I can use left twist for everything above 4” circumference, I am set. Thoughts? Thanks! Dave

I was just reading through the thread, and saw Ian's post a few pages back, where he comments on the Unimat 3 requiring special belts. The belts are just O-rings. I bought a bag of 50 in each of the 3 sizes from Amazon - all the belts together cost about the same as the shipping charge. Dave

I'm not familiar with the Unimat in your link. I have a Unimat, but it is an old one produced by EMCO. I think the one in the Frolich book that Tony mentioned is one of the old EMCO ones as well. The EMCO Unimats are great tools: extremely well built and precise. The one in the link has the same name, but is otherwise completely different. I think a lathe is a great tool, and I used mine a fair amount (gun barrels, ships bell, pedestals, etc). If you are planning on only turning wood, there are probably less expensive alternatives. If you plan to turn brass, you probably want to invest in a better machine. I don't have any experience with the machine you are considering, but would be careful to make sure that any recommendations you follow are based on the same "unimat" machine you are considering. Dave

Hi Meredith - thanks! I found fly tying silk in diameters smaller than 00 - down to 4-0 and 6-0. It comes in white, and looks like about the right size for scale seizing and serving in 1/48 scale. I will order some and give it a try. Any thoughts on dyeing it? I'm trying to decide whether to dye the silk prior to serving, or wait until after. It seems like if I do it after, it would be a lot easier, and if it works, might help keep the serving in place. Dave

Thanks to everyone for their responses. I made my pilgrimage to Woodcraft over the weekend. Usually this is a risky proposition, but I only bought the two cans of stain. I’m at work, so can’t post pictures. I got the General Finishes stain. The expresso color works great for the standing rigging. Not black, but a very deep brown. It also covers really well. I’ve been using both ecru and white cotton, and both end up the same color after staining. I also tried the Golden Oak. Chuck – what color stain or dye did you use on your line? I really want the same effect. The Golden Oak has a significant orange tinge to it. I originally thought I might have gotten a bad can until I realized it is the same color as oak flooring. I’d like something with more yellow in it. Any suggestions for other colors? Also, the water based dye is very thick. It does seem to penetrate OK, but it seems like there is a lot of stain getting into the line, and it is a little stiffer when it dries. Have people been using it straight from the can, or have they been thinning it? Dave

Meredith – I need something pretty fine. When I looked at the line used for seizing on the Constitution, it looked like heavy twine between 1/8” and ¼” in diameter. .005” is around ¼” in 1/48 scale, and should look OK. Mark – I made some RH rope with right hand twist DMC Cordonett. I was only using one strand on each spindle. It came out OK. The individual lines unwind, then rewind left hand as the rope is being made. I haven’t tried it with multiple strands on each spindle, and suspect that wouldn’t come out right. Dave

I have started a spreadsheet. I've been using DMC Cordonnet crochet thread. I've just started getting results that are OK, and made my first attempt at staining the line. Mm Inch How made .31 .012 #80 plain .44 .017 #20 plain .61 .024 #60 1 strand per wheel .78 .031 #20 1 strand per wheel 1.2 .046 #60 3 strands per wheel Any thoughts on smaller diameter line for seizings and serving? I need something natural fiber that will take a stain so it matches the larger lines. Most of the small diameter stuff is synthetic. I saw some very thin silk that is used for beading and comes in .005" and .008" diameter in white. Has anyone used this before? thanks! Dave

Ryland - Your AVS looks great. I love the pictures and am impressed every time you bring the model to the club meetings, and am really looking forward to seeing progress. I like Tim's idea - workshop before computer! Best, Dave

Best of luck with your build. I did a kitbashed version of this for my last model. The cannons that came with yours look a lot different than the ones that came with my kit 6 or 7 years ago. They seem to be using some sort of casting now that looks a lot lower quality. You should definitely get in touch with Model Expo - they have a really good reputation for replacing inadequate parts. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress. In terms of depth of the rabbet, you probably want to be consistent along the length. It doesn't have to be exactly 1/16, but don't go so shallow or deep that you can't make up the difference when you sand. You should be able to get it pretty close. having it the same depth on both sides will help you keep it symmetric. Dave

I like milling my own wood, but I'm not up to harvesting it myself. I understand that for some of the woods there are some special issues. For instance if holly isn't harvested in the right season, and I think kiln dried, it ends up with grey spots. I value my hands enough that I'm not going to use a chain saw, and haven't split logs since boy scout camp a LONG time ago. It is a cool thing to do, and I wish you the best of luck. Dave

Mario - I'm really enjoying your log, particularly all your detail. Your frames look great. I'm looking forward to your next update. Dave

Thanks everyone for all the responses. I finally had some success with my ropewalk last night, and will head over to woodcraft over the weekend. I want to stay away from dyeing with coffee - I usually drink it while working, and have so far not gotten any of it on my model. Putting it on deliberately just doesn't feel right. The general finishes stain sounds really good, but I think I will try the transtint dye first. The person who had responded when I asked before the site went down (I wish I could remember who it was) mixed it with alcohol, and said it dried quickly enough that he could use the line as he made it. It comes in pretty similar colors to the general finishes stain. If I can't get the transtint to work, I'll use the stain. It would also be easier for me to use something that I could do inside. Virginia isn't California, and does get pretty good weather, but it is more of a daylight issue. By the time I finish work and exercise, I'm usually out of daylight. Jay - your website looks great, and should be really helpful. I'm looking forward to reading it more carefully over the weekend. Dave

Tim - the hull looks great! I'm looking forward to seeing it in person at the club meeting. Dave

Bob and Mario - thanks! Greg - I have DMC Cordonett in a range of sizes and will bring to the workshop. I had a breakthrough last night, and am now getting line I am happy with. I can bring my ropewalk too if you want. Dave

looks great! the clear framing jig looks really neat. I look forward to meeting you next week. Dave

My old log was lost, as was the Hannah one. After a lot of thought, I have decided to just restart both where I left off. I didn’t save them, and given the choice between spending time on the computer and spending time in the workshop, it was an easy choice. I’m looking forward to the workshop in 2 weeks. I redid my keel (pictures below are the fifth redo). I had originally planned to use the previous one, but had made that with the dimensions from the contract, which are slightly different than the plans. When I made the framing jig and it was loose on the keel, I realized I might have other problems down the road, so I made another keel using the wood Greg sent. I have also made the dead flat and dead flat one frames. I’m going to hold for now and play with my new ropewalk. I don’t want to make any more frames until after the workshop as I think they will be a lot better after. Dave