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toms10 got a reaction from shipman in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
Pretty much finished the bow sprit area. Still need to put on the braces for the yard but I think I am going to wait until I get some of the fore mast sails in so I don’t have to work around the brace lines.
It has not been a a very productive week in terms of forward progress. I ended up not liking how the jib sail came out so I took it down and made another one which came out much better in terms of texture. The first one had lots of small wrinkles that when you looked at it he sail by itself didn’t seem too bad. But when it was hanging next to the other sails I did not like it.
Also had to redirect some of my lines to adjacent belaying points several times as more lines were added to keel them looking organized. Put some on take some off.
I am hoping the bow area rigging is the most involved and the rest goes easier. I spent quite a bit of time reviewing how it all worked so it made some sense when building.
Time to start at the top with the fore royal and work my way down. I decided to leave off the fore staysail...at least for now. It was going to be set flying so I guess it could be left off. We will see after the furled fore course sail is up. Don’t want to “over sail” it either.
Tom
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toms10 reacted to John Ruy in New Bedford Whaleboat by John Ruy - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 3/4”=1’ (1/16 scale) - Plank-On-Frame Wood Kit
Worked on finishing the Line tubs today.
After gluing on the quarter panels I used a needle file to carve the barrel stays into the sides of the line tubs.
Drilled holes to install rope handles and Stained the wood...
Installing whale line, I used Aleenes Tacky Fabric Glue.
Fabric glue looks horrible going on but it does soak in and dries clear.
Line Tubs finished. I am thinking 🤔 this rope needs to be stained. Not sure what to use, needs not be so shiny. 😎
Also ran out of line, 5 yards supplied in the kit seems to have gone fast. Fortunately, I found the line at ModelExpo online. Ordered!
Went to work on the Lantern Cask. These little guys are tough.
It’s taking shape... More fun tomorrow!
Cheers 🍻
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toms10 reacted to Roger Pellett in Materials that should NOT be used to build models?
This forum is read by people that range from World Class professional model builders to assemblers of mass market kits. A recurring theme on the forum is “What amI going to do with my models when I am no longer around?”
If you are assembling a USS Constitution or HMS Victory kit, there is a high probability that it’s never going to see the inside of a museum and your heirs may or may not appreciate trying to find room for it in their home. Therefore, you should enjoy yourself and not worry about what the model will look like in 100 years.
If you are a professional you have already answered these questions.
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toms10 reacted to Justin P. in Materials that should NOT be used to build models?
As a professional conservator I probably land on the more conservative side of this discussion. Many of the materials being used today, especially on model ships, make me cringe. The coatings, the glues, the plastics and display scenarios are all either not well vetted or are just what is practical (vs. ideal). The worst are those that use really modern materials to provide an easier building experience. There is no such thing as archival quality anything - given the right scenario all things will deteriorate. This becomes even more complex as we combine many different materials into a compound object of organic and inorganic materials. The best "archival" acrylic paints were never tested in combination with highly acidic woods - etc. That paint may be red forever, but it may also end up as red flakes at the bottom of your display case... Those decals and such will just be brown in 15 years, or worse will be brown on one side and white on the other. Its very hard to predict how an object will age, but it is very easy to make the right decisions early and be knowledgable of inherent vice.
All this to say that I cringe only because I know the time and care put into these objects, and its difficult not to get up on a soapbox every time I see something I know with absolute authority will not last. We have to decide for ourselves, few will end up in a museum, and even fewer of us will have grandchildren who want these things laying around so I say enjoy what you are doing now, and forget the rest 🙃
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toms10 reacted to John Ruy in New Bedford Whaleboat by John Ruy - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 3/4”=1’ (1/16 scale) - Plank-On-Frame Wood Kit
Finished up Oars today...
I tried something new and used Testors striping tape sealed with CA glue to paint stripes on the oars.
Works quite nicely. 😎
Started building the tubs, casks and buckets.
The laser cut materials provided in the kit was short 1/4 of the large line tub stays. Fortunately, my lumber yard had some raw materials. 😆
Soaked one side of the barrel stays with water to allow them to bend.
Held in place with rubber bands until set. I’ll trim up for a better fit and glue tomorrow. After drying overnight.
Progress, one day at a time. Tomorrow’s another day.
Really like working with this scale vs 1/96th. 😎
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toms10 reacted to John Ruy in New Bedford Whaleboat by John Ruy - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 3/4”=1’ (1/16 scale) - Plank-On-Frame Wood Kit
Steering Oar Brace and Stern Rigging.
Installing the Steering Oar Brace Pad.
Pad complete. 😎
My first attempt at looping the end of a rope.
Oar Strop and Lanyard tied down to the cleat.
Stern Rigging completed.
Onward... 🍻
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toms10 reacted to John Ruy in New Bedford Whaleboat by John Ruy - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 3/4”=1’ (1/16 scale) - Plank-On-Frame Wood Kit
Masts, Oars and Paddles...
Mast and Sprit Pole lower detail.
Upper detail of Mast and Sprit Pole.
Oars and Paddles completed and stained... 😎
The drawing for the sail is presented at Half Scale. 🧐 I’ll have to draw up a template to scale and borrow the wife’s sewing machine, Again... 😆
Sail cloth include in the kit. Looks like I will be borrowing the ironing board too. 🤔
It’s Friday... 🍻
Have a Great Weekend!
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toms10 got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
My flying jib is now flying!
Progress is slow but steady right now. I still need to trim up the excess rope on the belaying pins and put some 50/50 glue on the knots but I think I will wait until all the bow sprit sails are in place just in case I want to reroute something. That has only happened countless times already. That is part of why it is taking so long.
Tom
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toms10 reacted to John Ruy in New Bedford Whaleboat by John Ruy - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 3/4”=1’ (1/16 scale) - Plank-On-Frame Wood Kit
Onwards to building oars and a mast.
Laser cut oar pieces added to tapered dowels.
First cut at shaping the oars and masts. I’ll give it another shot at blending in the dowels after the stain sets overnight.
later 😎
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toms10 got a reaction from Barbossa in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
My flying jib is now flying!
Progress is slow but steady right now. I still need to trim up the excess rope on the belaying pins and put some 50/50 glue on the knots but I think I will wait until all the bow sprit sails are in place just in case I want to reroute something. That has only happened countless times already. That is part of why it is taking so long.
Tom
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toms10 reacted to Bluto 1790 in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
You say "slow but steady" ~ well, the way the wind is filling those sails already that ship will be zipping across them waves!
Looking great!
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toms10 got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
My flying jib is now flying!
Progress is slow but steady right now. I still need to trim up the excess rope on the belaying pins and put some 50/50 glue on the knots but I think I will wait until all the bow sprit sails are in place just in case I want to reroute something. That has only happened countless times already. That is part of why it is taking so long.
Tom
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toms10 reacted to John Ruy in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
She is looking really good, Tom. Slow and steady as she goes. 👍
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toms10 reacted to Gahm in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
You do an excellent job on those sails!
Thomas
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toms10 got a reaction from Bluto 1790 in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
My flying jib is now flying!
Progress is slow but steady right now. I still need to trim up the excess rope on the belaying pins and put some 50/50 glue on the knots but I think I will wait until all the bow sprit sails are in place just in case I want to reroute something. That has only happened countless times already. That is part of why it is taking so long.
Tom
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toms10 got a reaction from Gahm in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
My flying jib is now flying!
Progress is slow but steady right now. I still need to trim up the excess rope on the belaying pins and put some 50/50 glue on the knots but I think I will wait until all the bow sprit sails are in place just in case I want to reroute something. That has only happened countless times already. That is part of why it is taking so long.
Tom
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toms10 got a reaction from thibaultron in Hobby Knife Preference?
I just started using Swann Morton #3 handle with a 10A blade and for a bit heavier work I have a #4 handle with a #26 blade. I was using an Exacto handle with #10 blades but found they dulled quickly and the handles never lasted. I am very happy with the change.
Tom
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toms10 got a reaction from WalrusGuy in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
My flying jib is now flying!
Progress is slow but steady right now. I still need to trim up the excess rope on the belaying pins and put some 50/50 glue on the knots but I think I will wait until all the bow sprit sails are in place just in case I want to reroute something. That has only happened countless times already. That is part of why it is taking so long.
Tom
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toms10 got a reaction from Rik Thistle in Hobby Knife Preference?
I just started using Swann Morton #3 handle with a 10A blade and for a bit heavier work I have a #4 handle with a #26 blade. I was using an Exacto handle with #10 blades but found they dulled quickly and the handles never lasted. I am very happy with the change.
Tom
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toms10 got a reaction from PeteB in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
Houston we have propulsion! Actually it probably should be London we have propulsion! I was able to mount my first sail today. It took all afternoon, mostly staring at it figuring out all the intricacies of rigging. This is going to take a while 🤔😮. My goal is to bring the completed model to Modelcon in Philadelphia in August. Should not be a problem but I have learned that I am not the speediest modeler and I can only put a couple hours a day if I am lucky. I would be very hungry if I did this professionally. 😜😁
here is my sprit sail.
Now I have to try furling a sail as that is my plan for the top sprit sail.
Tom
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toms10 got a reaction from Bluto 1790 in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
Hi Jim
Very thin annealed wire in the leech and foot tablings. See post #308 of this log and I give a description. Belaying all the rigging in the right spots without crossing too many lines is going to be fun. I laid out a plan for all “one million” lines a while back when making the pin racks. I think I have changed line locations for the bowsprit rigging a half dozen times already! Once you see the line positions in real life on the model you realize better ways to keep the lines from turning into a rats nest. Lots of reading Lee’s Masting and Rigging of English Ships and Harland’s Seamanship in the Age of Sail. This is going to take awhile!🤔
Tom
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toms10 got a reaction from AON in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
Hi Jim
Very thin annealed wire in the leech and foot tablings. See post #308 of this log and I give a description. Belaying all the rigging in the right spots without crossing too many lines is going to be fun. I laid out a plan for all “one million” lines a while back when making the pin racks. I think I have changed line locations for the bowsprit rigging a half dozen times already! Once you see the line positions in real life on the model you realize better ways to keep the lines from turning into a rats nest. Lots of reading Lee’s Masting and Rigging of English Ships and Harland’s Seamanship in the Age of Sail. This is going to take awhile!🤔
Tom
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toms10 reacted to Kevin in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
need 27 sails please lol for my Amerigo
lovely work, they do look good
i used silkspan for the Dorade, lots of lesson learnt for the Amerigo
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toms10 got a reaction from John Ruy in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the encouragement. Now that the first sail is on, the rest seem a bit less daunting. The bolt ropes are glued on to the edges using Aleene's fabric glue. It is pretty strong and dries clear. Being a fabric glue it is also somewhat flexible. The only "sewing" I did was at the ends of the cringles I tied square knots with 50 wt thread to help hold them to the sail when the rigging line tugs on them. Gave them a bit of reinforcement so the bolt rope does not tear off. The ones at the corners of the sails are just loops created by the continuous bolt rope with a simple overhand knot at the base of the loop to help keep its shape. The glue should be plenty to hold them in place, especially at the head of the sail. There should not really be all that much tension on the cringles from the rigging lines as the billowing shape of the sail is created by the wire under the leach and foot tablings. The rigging lines just need to be taut enough to keep the sail in the correct plane.
Tom
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toms10 got a reaction from Bluto 1790 in HMS Leopard by toms10 - FINISHED - 1:85 scale POF/POB
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the encouragement. Now that the first sail is on, the rest seem a bit less daunting. The bolt ropes are glued on to the edges using Aleene's fabric glue. It is pretty strong and dries clear. Being a fabric glue it is also somewhat flexible. The only "sewing" I did was at the ends of the cringles I tied square knots with 50 wt thread to help hold them to the sail when the rigging line tugs on them. Gave them a bit of reinforcement so the bolt rope does not tear off. The ones at the corners of the sails are just loops created by the continuous bolt rope with a simple overhand knot at the base of the loop to help keep its shape. The glue should be plenty to hold them in place, especially at the head of the sail. There should not really be all that much tension on the cringles from the rigging lines as the billowing shape of the sail is created by the wire under the leach and foot tablings. The rigging lines just need to be taut enough to keep the sail in the correct plane.
Tom