WackoWolf

Thanks Thomas, I made quite a pile of scrap trying different methods of cutting the copper before I tried scoring it.  I tried tin snips, jewelers saw, hacksaw, dremel cutting blade.  This method gave me the cleanest cut and smoothest edge.  I also finally found out what bent nose pliers are for.  I've had one for years and never knew what it was for.
 

Yard Lifts
 
The Yard Lifts are used to square the yard. They don't carry a lot of the weight, which is done by the Jeers, so they seem a little flimsy. The main and fore lifts are of 3" rope, and the mizzen are a mere 1.5" (diameter).
 
The pics should tell the story of how they are rigged :
 

 

 

 

 
 Danny

A little more progress - chainplates mounted. The kit deadeye strops were made from wire bot the strops on the real ship are flat bars so I modified them. I filled the gap with epoxy & then filed it smooth to look like a flat bar. I must thank Michael (md1400cs) for this idea. I think they came out pretty good.
 

 

 

 
Thanks for all the looks & likes / Mark

I sanded the rudder to the tapered shape called for in the instructions and then applied the copper plates.  The top was painted black prior to placing the plates.   The false keel was fastened to the keel and to the rudder.  I used the brass nails that were included with the kit to secure the false keel in place, they’re a little oversized but not too many people are going to see them once the ship is finished and mounted.
 
         
 
After reading Richard’s (rtropp) log trying to use the brass strip covered with the copper foil for the pintles and gudgeons I decided to forgo that headache and use copper strips.  I discovered however, as Richard did, that it’s impossible to buy copper strips small enough to make them.  After some internet searching I came up with a method for making my own strips.  I purchased a copper sheet from Hobby Lobby and using a carpenter’s triangle (quick square) to hold the sheet in position I scored the sheet using a utility knife.  After running the blade along the copper sheet 4 to 5 times I used a bent nose pliers to break off the strip by gently bending it back and forth along the score line.  The strip needs a little sanding along its edges but you can make several strips rather quickly.
 

 
For the gudgeons I soldered a 1/16” diameter copper tube to the strip.  For the pintles I soldered a piece of 22 gauge wire to the strip.  I still need to drill the holes, cut the straps to length and clean them up a bit but I’m waiting for my drill bits to arrive in the mail.
 

 
 

Some months ago I started that other thread on 3D Printers. After doing some research and looking at actual 3D printed samples, my conclusion was the same as Pat's. Affordable 3D printers are a waste of time if you are a ship modeller. The resolution is too low, and the parts are too crude to be of any use. At this point in time, it is better to pay someone to make the print for you. 

Jeers
 
With the arrival of the rigging thread I was waiting on I could now finish off the Jeers on the fore and main masts.
 
These start with a double block on one side. It reaves through the large jeer block under the Top on one side, through the block in the centre of the yard, back up through the other block under the top, and finishes with another double block :
 

 
The tackle of the jeer falls. This is the main mast :
 

 
And the fore mast :
 

 
The falls of the tackles go through the sheaves in the Jeer Bitts and belay around the Bitt Rail :
 

 
 Danny

Gaff
 
I made the Jaws for the Gaff from Swiss Pear for a bit of contrast. This pic shows the jaws after gluing to the spar and before rounding off :
 

 
After shaping, and with card bands, eyebolt, blocks and parrel fitted :
 

 

 

 

 
I turned and drilled the Parrel Trucks on the lathe. They are 1.5mm in diameter :
 

 
The Throat Halyard block is supported in a sling which goes over the bolsters in the mizzen top :
 

 
The Parrel is knotted on one side of the jaws, goes around the mast and back through the hole in the other side. A stopper knot finishes it off :
 

 
The Peak Halyard rigging. A double block hooked to the mast cap is used to lead it downward :
 

 

 
The falls of the two halyards belay to the cleats :
 

 
 Danny

Once again thanks for the comments George, Greg, Skybolt, Michael, Ben and Kees .
 
Mizzen Mast Cleats
 
There are six cleats to be fitted near the foot of the Mizzen Mast. These would have been considerably easier to fit before the mast was stepped .
 
To mass produce the cleats I tack glued about 10 (some spares) pieces of 5mm x 1.5mm x 0.8mm pieces of english box together. When dry I filed them to shape :
 

 

 
Then I dropped the unit into Isopropyl for half an hour and seperated them :
 

 
The hard part was gluing them to the mast with the shrouds getting in the way a bit :
 

 
 Danny

07 April 1863: Combined Navy/Army Union Forces Attack Fort Sumter (credit: http://civilwarnavy150.blogspot.com)
At noon on April 7, 1863, the largest concentration of ironclad warships yet seen in the Civil War prepared for action in the main ship channel leading to Charleston harbor.
 

Now I attached the lower  pre-rigged yard (the one without a sail) and the boom with the furled sail.
 







 
My next step is to install the lower shrouds (ratlines) to the mizzen mast on both sides, pre-rig and install the upper yard and full sail, then finish the upper ratlines.
 
Thanks for visiting,
 
Frank
 

First of all thank you all for the kind messages and birthday greetings. Judy and me went for a nice walk and them met her Mum and Brother for supper at a great Greek restaurant that has tasteful furnishings and no TV's.
 
Row the taper pins are quite tough, I got the idea about using them from some old mechanical navigating equipment that all sorts of splines and gears that were fixed with small taper pins.
 
I started work on the inlet manifold today, it is 1/8 inch diameter copper tube I am going to use a petrol vapor carburetor. By all accounts this type of carb works well in small engines. I can make the carb look scale and have the vapor pass right through the model carb with the fuel tank hidden under the seat or floor boards.
 
the tube was annealed and filled with some .093 styrene them bent around some 1/2 inch dowel, the the loop was folded down a few degrees to match the face on the cylinder.
 

 
The extra length was cut off with a jewelers saw and the styrene burnt out. the flanges were turned on the lathe filed to shape then soldered to the tube. The faces that mate to the cylinder were cleaned up with a file and a sanding stick.
 

 
The four short holes in the cylinder needed to be tapped for the manifold studs these holes are only .060" deep I reground the tip of a 1x72 tap to make it absolutely flat and square, then just knocked off a few thou with an Arkansas Stone. The head was rest in the small machine vice so that the manifold face was horizontal, used the back end of the #52 drill(.063")
to locate the first hole then was able to index to all the rest following the numbers on my plans.
 
the drill was replaced with the tap with one of the brass thumb discs for the tapping.
 

 

 
I turned up some stud from some .073 music wire, this allowed me to cut a slot for a small screwdriver to set the stud temporarily, I will use high temp loctite with the final set up. The stud on the right is too long so I will shorten it up to match the left one.
 
Because the space is pretty tight I made some special small diameter nuts out of some 3/32 allen key, (a great source for small hex-stock old allen keys) I softened it by heating up to a bright cherry red and letting it cool slowly.
 

 
Tomorrow I will finish off the inlet by adding the T and the bottom of the loop which is where the carb with attach about 1/4 inch below the T
 
Thank you to all who visited the log over the last day or so.
 
Michael

Not a lot of time I have spend on the ST, but I’m still alive and kicking
 
So here’s an update about the progress I did so far.
 
 
Instead of using the bright colored blocks provided by the kit, I made my own 4mm blocks out of teak wood.
.. Not the best wood to use for manufacturing blocks..,  too grainy as you will see and a lot of them ended in the trash  ..
 

 

 

 
But I like the color..
 
 
After having prepared the bowsprit, I placed it in position.., but I might regret it placing it in this early rigging stage of the build.
 

 

 

A little progress:

 

 

 

Hello,
currently I am working with the production of the gun tackle.
Here are a few pictures of the components and a finished gun tackle.

 

 

Next I will show you the gun tackle how it will look on the model.

 

The first of the midships netting has now been finished. It turned out to be quite difficult.  When, in effect, there were two layers of netting (ie, one on either side of the supports) the pattern of the netting made it very difficult to see where the it should be cut to enable it to go under the cross members of the supports. I had three goes at it before the result was acceptable.  I hope the experience will make the last of the netting a little easier.
 
Here are the steps in the process.
 
First the two end supports were glued.  There is a wooden rail running along the supports, so it is necessary to have all of the supports in line.
 

 
Then two of the middle supports were added, making sure the wooden rail fitted and was straight.
 

 

 
All of the supports glued:
 

 
With the netting.  The wooden rail is only dry-fitted.  A coat of polyurethane will finish it.
 

 

 

 
Actually, despite appearances I am really quite slim.
 

 
I ordered the carronades from Cornwall Model Boats last week and they just arrived - very good service.  I have has a quick look at them and they appear to be first rate. Here's what the package looks like together with the illustrated instructions.  The detail is most impressive. I will work on them when I am next away.

 

 
 

@JesseLee
Thank you for the nice comment.
 
Breeching rope for the 18 - pounder
Here's another attempt to make the lashings with a brighter yarn. So it seems so that it works better with the brighter yarn.

Bye for now ...

Bridge level details
 
The kit provides pelorus’ for the bridge wings, they look good but when fitted on the model they are too tall (6 ft at scale). Although it would have been a simple matter to trim them by 3/32 or so I happened to have some smaller ones from Bluejacket in my spare parts kit that fit just fine. 
Here’s the finished bridge level. Kit provided items include the deck gratings, vertical ladders, railings and the 2 lockers on the port side. The WTD's (without windows) are aftermarket, everything else is scatch made.




 
Next job will be installing the stanchions that run between the main deck and the 01 level.

Thank you Jan :-)
 
Being on holiday in Austria, I took the chance to give a little air to my sweet roundy one with the funny stripes and to visit some friends.
 
Of course first had to repair some battle damages ...
 

 
... but then had some great fun discussing all things model making ...
 

 
... big, small ...
 

 
... and medium sized.
 

 
Also present was some happy metal aka armored vehicles ...
 

 
 
... from Walter - on the right side - and one of his wonderful planes ...
Re: M60A3 im UN-Einsatz (1:35 - Academy, DEF, Legend) - Kette 2. Versuch -
 
... and we had a sneak preview upon Karl´s magnificent 1:350 RJN Agaki ...
 

 
... with all the details front ...
 

 
... and back.
 

 
More from Karl tremendous work to be found here, even though in german, the pictures speak for themselves:  
Re: Japanischer Flugzeugträger AKAGI (Hasegawa, 1/350) - 28. Update
Re: Japanischer Flugzeugträger AKAGI (Hasegawa, 1/350) - 29. Update
Re: Das Titanicwrack - Teil 1: das Vorschiff (Minicraft, 1/350) - 39. Update- fertig
http://www.modellboard.net/index.php?topic=44814.0
http://www.modellmarine.de/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=3406:tauchgang-zum-wrack-der-titanic-im-massstab-1350&catid=454:karl-kapelari
 
Cheers, Daniel

Painting has started with the hull inside done.
 
More holes in the hull have been made towards the bows for various bollards and the stern has had some more work.
 
The structure for the quarter galleries has been dry fitted and will be removed and refitted once the final hull planking has been done.
 
Cheers,
 
David.
 

 

Different colours makes more sense with the deck in place
 

 

 

The relationship between the quarter gallery parts and the decks and the rails on the hull outside took some figuring out but I think I've got it looking OK.
 
 

Topmasts have been shipped and and all of the ratlines and back-stays are now complete, as well as the topmast stays and the crow's feet. I now have to make new topmast caps, I seem to have lost the kit supplied ones...
 
 

Hello,
I am very pleased with your positive comments.
Here it continues in the report with a small update
 
Breeching rope for the 18 - pounder
The four 18 - pounders of La Créole have meantime been provided with the latest fittings. The next step is to prepare the breeching rope.
The breeching rope of 18 - pounder had a length of 8.20 m and a diameter of 55 mm.
The attachment of the breeching rope inboard on the bulwark was performed using eyebolts that penetrated the hull in the original and outboard with a screw (yellow arrow) were countered.

 

Hello Alexander,
 
thanks for your kind words.
 
The carronades are now complete.
Still missing four 18 pounder guns on the gun deck.
I made this a long time ago. But a few details had yet to complete.

 

CLEATS
 
Retrieved from my posts in Msw1…
Just photos …
Thanks
 

 
 
 

A-fore continuing further wi' the matters o' miscellany, CaptainSteve didst take-eth a journey unto his local bakery, whence he travelled in search of Hot Cross Buns. He were to explain-eth, “Being the Easter season, and seeing as how me Launch be nearly complete, I didst wish to purchase a treat for Bligh et al.”
 
But even a-fore some sharp-witted member o’ the Horde could begin to point-eth out the many, many historical - not to mention, logistical - difficulties in such an under-taking, Our Hero were to go on, “Howe’er, the queues be-eth so long that I didst abandon this folly in the end.”
 
Instead, he didst settle for applying some colourations unto his Sculpey baked goodies which had been made on the yesterday.

 
As he didst mention above, CaptainSteve were to select-eth the four better-looking Flour sacks. However, e’en as he were to be a-doing so, Our Hero didst contemplate trimming the count o’ them to three. Time, and interior design layout, will tell.
 
“These”, he were to hypothesize, “wouldst be holding the Loyalists remaining measly stock o’ bread taken from the Bounty. As such, I doest figure that Bligh would be a-keepin’ a close eye on them, and they be kept up the stern end o’ the boat wi’ himself and his officers.”

“The other two bags be left empty,” CaptainSteve were to point out, somewhat needlessly. “I shall fold-eth ‘em over so that none couldst see-eth the appalling look o’ the writings on their fronts.”
 
Our Hero be a-figuring these empty sacks couldst be lazily positioned somewhere in the front sections o’ his Launch as an additional detail.
 
And, as he were to turn-eth his attentions unto an afternoon spent a-lathe-ing, he didst quickly remember the List:
“Arr …. “

My apologies, George ...