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WackoWolf
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WackoWolf reacted to rtropp in Micro drill, pen-size
I use the Dremel with a flex shaft attachment. I position the Dremel itself overhead so the shaft hangs pretty much straight down with enough slack to move around my worktable.
I seem to remember that ModelExpo or / or Micromark sold a battery device but do not know how well they held up.
There are a number of flex shaft type devices, some very light weight for both shaft and device, (Foredom comes to mind) but they can be expensive (a few hundred dollars) where the Dremel flex shaft is a fairly inexpensive accessory ($30 or so). If you do go the route of any of the flex shaft devices I recommend investing a few more dollars in a tall tool holder with a clamp. These can be had for around $10 or so.
Richard
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WackoWolf reacted to Ulises Victoria in Wasa 1628 by JanV - Corel - scale 1:75 - Vasa
JanV. DO NOT try to bend them. They will break. Try using the grinding method mentioned above.
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WackoWolf reacted to fmodajr in Wasa 1628 by JanV - Corel - scale 1:75 - Vasa
Hi Jan,
I had the same problems with my figurines. I was able to put a carbide grinding bit onto my Dremel tool and grind the backs of the figurines to get the right curves and to thin them out.
Frank
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WackoWolf reacted to JanV in Wasa 1628 by JanV - Corel - scale 1:75 - Vasa
after one week in bed with the flue started today again
I have started with sawing the figures from the malls. very difficult as this is a hard metal
still 20 to go
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WackoWolf reacted to ChrisLBren in The 74 Gun Ship Volume 1 Hull Construction - Boudriot
In the 74 Gun Ship Series there are only 6 Station Frames drafted. You would need to draft the others - which again if you should be able to do with all of the information provided. You may want to reach out to Gaetan B - he has build the French 74 three times in three different scales. Hope this helps,
Chris
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WackoWolf reacted to cookster in USF Constitution by cookster - Model Shipways - kitbashed to 1812
Thanks Augie and Popeye!
Augie, you'll love planking the decks with Jeff's boxwood. You've done a fine job on your hull planking with basswood, so you'll have NO trouble with the boxwood. It's great to be able to pick up a plank and not have to dress both edges to HOPE to get a tight fit. All I've done is use a caliper to make sure planks that are butted end to end (which are cut from different planks) are the same width. I have found there are .001 to .002 (thousandths) down to .0005 (5 ten thousandths, or 1/2 of a thousandth) variation in plank widths so all I have to do is sort for matching widths. This may seem extreme, and probably is, but in my quest for straight, gapless plank runs this must be done...
Oh, and the pencil lead on the plank edge technique that I found in some of my very first readings on MSW works like a champ! With the boxwood and cherry stain I think the look is perfect (of course that's my opinion, yours may vary)
I can't wait till the day I take the same pics with guns rigged on the deck. But alas, that's still a long ways off...
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WackoWolf reacted to cookster in USF Constitution by cookster - Model Shipways - kitbashed to 1812
Let me ask for your indulgence as I post a few gratuitous "here's my planking pics". I do think these look pretty cool, from a "crewman's" point of view.
I also want to add again what a pleasure it is to use Jeff Hayes (Hobbymil) supplied boxwood deck planking. Makes all the difference in the world over basswood...
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WackoWolf reacted to fmodajr in Wasa by fmodajr - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
I have finished the railing posts on both sides of the ship. I will start working on the railing tops, finishing the bow railing, and the rigging pulleys on the middle lower railings.
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WackoWolf reacted to fmodajr in Wasa by fmodajr - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Hi everyone,
I have installed the catheads and the lower portion of the bow railing.
I still have to make up the knees that sit behind the lower portion of the railing.
Thanks to Michael, (md1400cs) I was able to obtain stanchions for the bow railing (replacing the dolphins that came with the kit) and I have gold leafed them. They are ready to be installed.
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WackoWolf reacted to molasses in Name the Ship Game
Wayne, you are correct, it is the USS Fulton.
Designed by Robert Fulton as Demologos, Congress authorized her construction during the War of 1812. Commissioned as Fulton after Fulton's death, she made successful trial runs in the summer of 1815. The two masts and lateen sails were added by her first captain, David Porter. With the end of the war it was decided not to fully outfit her for her intended duty as a port defense battery ship. Her one day of active service occurred with President James Monroe on board for a tour of New York Harbor before she was placed in ordinary in 1816. In 1825, she was housed over and used as a receiving/barracks ship until she was destroyed by a magazine explosion in 1829, killing 30 men.
Fulton was the first steam warship (and one of only a handful of steam ships that actually worked) and demonstrated a future for naval warfare in which warships would be able to operate independently of the wind. It took another 30 years and several other inventions (like the screw propeller) before steam warships began to realize their potential. A few, at least, recognized what they saw during Fulton's trials, in spite of its flaws, and called this ship "Fulton the First".
Your turn, Wayne
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WackoWolf reacted to molasses in Name the Ship Game
Name the Ship:
This ship dramatically changed naval warfare. Image cropped but otherwise unchanged.
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WackoWolf reacted to Jim Lad in HM Colonial Cutter Mermaid by olliechristo - FINISHED - Modellers ShipYard -
Ollie, you shouldn't need any stealers at the stern of a hull like this, unless you plan on using just the kit hull strips, in which case what you did on the first planking is the way to go.
In the actual ship the planks at the stern would have swept up the stern post in a nice curve, but that would, of course, need wider planks to achieve the shape.
The picture below shows the hull of the oyster smack 'Betty' undergoing repair. The lower strakes of planking have a much more pronounced sweep than is usual, but you can see the principal easily.
John
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WackoWolf reacted to olliechristo in HM Colonial Cutter Mermaid by olliechristo - FINISHED - Modellers ShipYard -
Really interesting Sailor1234 .. Makes sense also...
I have forgot to add hours to log.. estimating 15 hours since last mention..
Just showing you the latest pics of the lines being created.. I have done some spiling, tapering, some wetting of timber to help bending in some areas...
Last photo. I am a bit concerned about what is the best way to finish planks, at the stern where they meet, you can see how i did the first layer planking.. Regards Ollie
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WackoWolf reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Thank you gentlemen for your kind words.
Today I will show to the gun ports lids a special detail.
The lids in the area of bugs are doubled for protection from the anchor with planks.
To be continued ...
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WackoWolf reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Ah, sorry, I ment the largest cannon on the upper deck. The ones for the gunports are slightly wider in diameter, but they are just short ones ment to fit the fake gunports.
I've started the tricky part to map the differeny cannons used on Vasa. The ones on upper deck is a mixed bag of what they could find as they didn't manage to make all guns in time.
Thanks for the help, it's good to know the real lenghts!
/Matti
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WackoWolf reacted to NMBROOK in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Hi Matti,unfortunately I can't lay my hands on the shortest one.I only ordered one of these as was unsure how many I required.
However
The RHS one pt no.4159/50 is listed as 50mm long but is in fact 44mm.The muzzle has an OD of 6mm with a 3.5mm bore
The middle one pt no.4159/40 is listed as 40mm long but is in fact 35mm.The muzzle is 3.5mm OD with a bore of 2.5mm.
The smallest one is 4159/30 listed as 30mm but from what I can remember was in fact 27mm long.
All the pt no's above include full walnut carriages but they are available seperately.
They also do one 20mm long but I should imagine this is possibly a little short for your requirements.
Take into account the kit cannons are for the upper deck,the cannons get larger as you work your way down
Kind Regards Nigel
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WackoWolf reacted to NMBROOK in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Hi Mate,yes I have seen the pics on the museums site.The only model cannon maker that would produce anything exactly the same is Alex Banarov.His artillery is amazing,however looking at his site he hasn't developed any cannons for Wasa .I think much depends on how much time you want to devote to them.You could spend time producing one master for each size and cast them in resin.The easiest way of doing this would be to start with a basic aftermarket cannon and then add the decorative parts yourself.The problem I can foresee having seen Clayton's work is that many of the cannons have unusual proportions in that they are very long for their diameter.The cannons on Sovereign were the other way round all be Drakes,short and fat.So I decided to compromise which was the Amati product.If you want some info on the Amati cannons,just ask mate.
Kind Regards Nigel
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WackoWolf reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Hey Nigel, I started to plan for the cannons. First I need to decide what setup I want, if I want them out and ready to fire or not. Either way I need cannons for the deck and like you the originals are really plain and the shape is not correct. The ones you suggested are much better. Here are the real Vasa cannons, and one pic of the newmade replica:
I'll try and get the right measurement. I'm not sure the ones in the kit have the right lenght.
/Matti
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WackoWolf reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thank you Marc and Duff - you're building a Vulture too? I can't seem to find a Build Log of her .
Here is the full set of Channels. Now I need to fit them to the hull and make some Standards for them.
Danny
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WackoWolf reacted to Richard Griffith in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Exceptionally nice work Dan~!
The recent posts bring up a good issue-at what point do we accept our work? That is, when is the part good enough to put on our model ship? Do we throw away the item and remake it once, twice, more? We must therefore, make decisions at every step of the way, and take into account many factors, such as will the casual viewer even notice, will it be judged by experts (if entered into a juried competition), can we do better, do we have the time and skills? For example, I had to remake the drum head for my Vulture 5 times. (Next time, I will use a slitting saw instead of an end mill to cut the square slots for the capstan bars.)
For me and I think most of us, are we having fun?
I am challenging myself to raise my level of fit and finish, do more research, and remake parts to the highest level I can. This hobby has so many challenges that it never grows stale; there is always more to learn.
Well, enough of this, I need to make more chips, er ships. Duff
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WackoWolf reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Hi all, back from my holidays again .
Channels
I've made the Foremast Channels and the Stools that are fitted just aft of them. They are tapered outboard from 4 1/2" to 2 3/4" (real size) on their bottom face. There are two swivelling ringbolts in each channel - they fit through a small plate on the underside which I made from thin brass shim material and blackened :
I've cut into the Sheer Strake for added support on the inboard edge. This is only a dry fit so far :
To align the slots for the Shrouds I rigged up a dummy mast and used a piece of thread to ensure they wouldn't foul the gunports and sweep ports. A molding will be added to cover the shrouds after they are fitted. The dummy mast is vertical, not on the angle it seems in the pic (the ship itself is tilted a bit ) :
Danny
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WackoWolf reacted to src in End snippers, what can we use them for?
My thought was micro Marc also, or a train store. Those would be good for tree nails also.
Cdog, yes! Buy it and THEN find a use for it.
Sam
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WackoWolf reacted to mtaylor in HMY Royal Caroline 1749 by Tarjack - 1:50 - bone model
You, sir, are a master artist.
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WackoWolf reacted to src in Micro chisles
Mark, I was looking at those also. I have the dog leg flat set, love em. I was surprised to see a set from two cherries and down to 0.5 mm for some. The Two Cherries brand is partially responsible for my chisel love affair (fetish? Obsession?)
Micheal, yea I hear you, I have become a bit of a chisel lover over the years, the guys at work always rib me when I pull out one of my rolls of chisels. "Uh-oh! Geppetto is in the house!" But who do they go too when they need a sharp chisel???
Sam
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WackoWolf reacted to wefalck in Proxxon Mini Lathe DB-250 - Opinions/assessments/recommendations?
Tony, hand-scraping is an old-time, well, art of precision-fitting of machine surfaces. With a chisel-like tool minute amounts of metal are removed until a perfect fit or match has been achieved. More details e.g. here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_scraper. The 'fitters' at the same time tried to achieve a pleasing looking surface. Today with CNC-precision grinding this craft is only needed for repair or restoration work. I am only a self-taught evening-mechanic, so I don't really master it and rather use a file
I don't have such lathe, so I don't know how the tailstock is actually constructed. Looking at the catalogue picture, I think there is a simple bore going through the tailstock; the barrel presumably is plain in the front part and has a thread cut into the rear part; the brass nut that runs in a slot of the tailstock moves the barrel in and out; the barrel also has a key cut into the top surface; a thumb-screw on top of the tailstock prevents the barrel from turning and also locks it when set. Am I right ? If could post a picture of the disassembled tailstock, perhaps I could give you some ideas how to reduce the side- and end-play of the barrel. Do you have a pillar-drill ?
wefalck
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