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russ

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Everything posted by russ

  1. russ
    I would not worry as much if the parts do not match the plans exactly. Work with the parts you have build the model using the plans as a guide. At the end of the day, you will want to work the model. Chances are those plans have some distortion in them as well as there being some issues with how the plans were redrawn for laser cutting. As for the rabbet, cutting it a little shallow is okay. You can improve the depth etc as you begin fitting the bulkheads and planking. Get the rabbet close and then adjust as necessary. Get the bulkheads to match the top of the profile former and then shim alogn the bottom near the keel as necessary. You need that deck line to match up. The rest can be fixed. Good luck and have fun. Russ
  2. russ
    Gerty: Thanks for those kind words. I think the rigging could be much better, but that is only because I know more now than I did then. Russ Michael: This has been fun remembering how I built this model. Some good memories, some not so much. But it was a good learning experience. Russ
  3. russ
    That is a nice bit of painting. Very crisp lines. Very nice work. Russ
  4. russ
    Keith: Thanks for the very kind words. Thanks for dropping by. Bob: I appreciate the kind words. Thanks. Russ
  5. russ
    I agree that is nice planking. That holly bottom planking really looks great. Nice work. Russ
  6. russ
    You can draw the shrouds on your template to make sure that they do not get pulled out of alignment. Russ
  7. russ
    Sam: I had NOTHING to do with it, NOTHING I say. I was not even in town that month. Looking forward to more pics so I can see that for which I am taking blame. Check my signature for builds. Russ
  8. russ
    Mark: Thanks. The model's atmosphere is mostly natural. The model has never been cased. It has been on my shelf for ten years now and it gets a little dusting every now and again. It has been very stable even through the high humidity and no air conditioning of Katrina and its aftermath. Nothing has moved or come loose. Some of that has to do with treenailing and some of it is the fact that the the framing and planking all got a clear finish of some sort. Russ
  9. russ
    Yes, simple carvel style planking is correct. Those old Scientific kit hulls were meant to be shaped and painted with no planking. However, if you want to add planking, you can do it. Russ
  10. russ
    Okay. Here are some pics of the finished model. The ratlines were made using a poster board pattern clipped onto the shrouds. The shrouds and ratlines were dyed with Minwax Jacobean stain. The reason for the slightly lmp shrouds is the failure of the soft soldered joints in a few deadeye strops. One of those can be seen in a photograph in a recent post. That is the end of the log. Please let me know if there are any questions or observations. Hopefully someone out there will get something out of this recitation of lessons learned and maybe even a few useful techniques that actually did work. If the foregoing can help someone steer clear of my mistakes then I am happy. As I said, there are a few things about this little model that I still like. Even with all the little mistakes, it still speaks to me and I am proud to share it with everyone. Later folks. Russ
  11. russ
    Ron: The spacing looks pretty good in fact. I used wood for my jig because it was easier for me to assemble. However, your metal jig looks quite good. Works good too. One thing though. You mentioned using dowels. I would urge you to rip up a stick of hardwood so that you know for sure where all the grain is going in the wood. Then turn or draw it down to the size you need. You can do that the same way you would shape a mast or yard, but if you have a machinist's screw gauge, that will work as a drawplate. I use mine quite a bit on large pieces. Not great, but it gets the job done. Or you could get some sheet metal and drill a few holes to make your own short term draw plate. Russ
  12. russ
    The mast was made out of a stick of Western alder. It is a good straight grained wood. The mast is fitted with rope wooldings and side fishes. The dimensions for the mast and the fighting top were taken from Davis's The Built Up Ship Model. The mast is not glued into the model. It has a tenon on its lower end that fits into the mast step and it can be removed if I wanted to. Here is a look at the fighting top. Here it is painted and with the shrouds fitted. The looped area of the shrouds are served. Here is the serving machine I made to serve the forward most shrouds. This machine uses nylon gears and it worked very well. Questions and comments welcomed. Russ
  13. russ
    After the deck fittings were finished, the channels, deadeyes, and chainplates were made. Here you can see the channel and the chainplates. The channel is set into the slot provided in the planking so that it was dowelled directly to the frames. The dowel is hidden in the inside edge of the channel at each end of the channel. The chainplates and deadeye strops were soft soldered. I had not yet discovered hard soldering yet. Here is a mock up of a simple jig to drill the holes in the deadeyes. My deadeyes were made from cherry, drawn down to the correct diameter. The end of the stick is set into the large hole and there is a plate with the three deadeye holes drilled in it glued to the other side of the jig. It makes for perfectly aligned deadeye holes each time. Never mind that rough shoulder on the jig. That is sanded off flush before the jig is used. The key is to have the large hole at the same depth as the deadeye's thickness. That way, the deadeye can be sawed off after the eyes have been drilled. I got the idea for this jig from reading Harold Underhill's Plank on Frame Models. Russ
  14. russ
    I would imagine you would paint a wooden dowel the same way you would paint any other piece of wood. That said, primer is not absolutely necessary. I like to paint with acrylics and I use several thin coats of paint, built up over a few days, to get the depth of color I want. Let the first coat dry and then lightly sand it to knock down the grain of the wood. Then apply the next coat, let it dry, and then another coat. A light sanding (very light) after each coat is a good idea. After that first sanding to knock down the grain, you really do not have to sand the finish, but if it is lightly done and with fine grade paper, it can be done. Hope that helps. Russ
  15. russ
    Bob: That is good work. Very impressive save. Russ
  16. russ
    The deck should follow the curve of the false keel and it will bend at the sides to make contact with the tops of bulkheads. It probably would have been better to attach the false deck before planking it. Russ
  17. russ
    Sam: Nice work so far. The hand rails look very good. The hinges look good too. I think that is a good idea to make several and choose the best. I do that quite often with soldered bits. Russ
  18. russ
    Ron: Nice work on the chesstree. It gives a good scale effect. Russ
  19. russ
    Among the other deck fittings was the belaying pins. Using some magnification, I made these by hand and I think they came out fairly well. With a little more work, they could be made a bit more alike. Here is the pinrail at the mast. Note also the wedges around the mast as it goes through the deck. Russ
  20. russ
    Absolutely. Give it a go and see what you can accomplish. Russ
  21. russ
    Bob: This is a beautiful model. The paint work so far looks very clean. Very good job. Russ
  22. russ
    Well, after completing the day's yard work I have some free time (Spring break here). Here is some more progress. This model has four guns. They were meant to be smaller caliber. I recall six pounders perhaps. I "turned" them using a Dremel set horiztonally in a clamp. They are made of birch and I made a very poor job of it. Viewed from a distance or in a poor light, they are not that bad, but up close....? Well, see for yourself. Here is the carriage which came out a little better than the gun. The blocks for the gun tackles are not that bad. Here is one of the guns on deck. It is a little cramped, but that is my fault for not scaling the guns better. More later. Russ
  23. russ
    Rocker: If you can add the chocks and scarphs, by all means have a go. We purposely omitted them in the cross section to make it a good beginner's project. We figured that a butt joint was easier to to make and so it would decrease the learning curve a bit. Russ
  24. russ
    The two sets of plans are slightly different. Do not try and compare them one to the other. Changes were made in the cross section plans to accomodate the idea of a distinct cross section model. It was never intended that you should be able to use the plan sets interchangeably. Russ
  25. russ
    Great work on the framing and fairing. Thanks for reposting it. Russ

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