NMBROOK

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.
After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.
For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.
The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.
I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.
After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.
For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.
The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.
I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.
After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.
For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.
The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.
I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Beautiful. Anything else to say has already been said. Excellent job.

Can't agree more mate.His 74 won a gold at Sandown Park this year.I am gutted I didn't go,I was doing other things. Definately be there next year in the hope of seeing it in person.I will keep my ear to the ground to see who is going to be in attendance as I think this will become an annual roadtrip for some of the Russian masters.
 
Kind regards
 
Nigel

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.
After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.
For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.
The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.
I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Leaving them in place makes a lot of sense Mark.The only thing worth considering is running the saw through three or four evenly spaced along the length of the hull immediately prior to planking.It would be insurance against any timber movement in the future which could result in the odd crack appearing.This can always be a problem when you have a long continuous 'stack' of timbers with the grain running vertically
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Rather you than me Michael I do agree the mass production factory method is possibly the only route for a task like this one and maintain sanity at the same time I do think they will add a great deal of visual interest with that degree of detail painting.Your new order of things is the correct way,that was the way I used to do it with armour figures many years ago and was,although I say it myself,quite good at it.Only thing that may make things easier to 'see' is to paint the whole head with a white base coat that also forms the whites of the eyes.This may make it easier to see the shape of the eyes when cutting back in with the yellow.Just a thought.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Leaving them in place makes a lot of sense Mark.The only thing worth considering is running the saw through three or four evenly spaced along the length of the hull immediately prior to planking.It would be insurance against any timber movement in the future which could result in the odd crack appearing.This can always be a problem when you have a long continuous 'stack' of timbers with the grain running vertically
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.
After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.
For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.
The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.
I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Nigel,
 
I'm leaving in all the spacers.  They will all be covered by planking but at this point, the support is necessary.   I've already busted one frame thinning it out as I got a bit heavy-handed on the file.    I will still need to go back over this whole thing again and fair in the sills and from the wale line up to the sheer. 

Magnificent Nigel. Except for the scale of the backgrounds I'd swear I was in a shipyard.

Oh how time flies when we're having fun.....
 
Ok.. got the shop back into shipyard mode and I'm working on the gunports.   I have to thin the frames down some (to 1/16" at the ports) so that their wide enough... Done!!!!
 
I then have to put in the sills, paying particular attention to the location at each end of the each sill.  I still check each one.  So far, 6 have been done.   I also check each one with check tool made from some yellowheart.  Actually not made.  Turns out the pen blank I bought as a sample to see what yellowheart looked like was about 1/64" inch too big.  A quick bit of sanding and it's perfect for the job.
 
I'm scratching my head as Hahn made most of his ships in 1:96 and just a few in bigger scales.  How the heck did thin the frames for the ports or get the level of detail he got, I'll never know.
 
Anyway.. the pic.  And like the rest of us, right now I'm hating the macro setting.       
 

Thank you Nils,Bill and Matti
I was just thinking a similar thing yesterday Nils It kind of reminds me of tudor buildings,although the colour is wrong.
I am enjoying to able to spend some decent time in the shipyard Matti I agree the lines are fantastic,although there is still some refinement to do on the model,predominantly the stern which is still a plain block.I am deliberately leaving this until the counter timbers are in place which can only go in once this main gundeck is about complete.I could fit them earlier,but would make everything so much harder to access. 
I have succumb to temptation and done a little treenailing.I have decided to stick to the original plan and go for unblackened copper.This decision is based on the 'Russian Palace' influence I have going on with this model and is a direction I have been moving toward.I have not ruled out doing the decorations in black As I have got further on in this pastime,my taste has changed somewhat and I prefer the darker muted aesthetics of this style to the gilded or carved boxwood ornamentation that is commonplace.
I have posted this link before,but for me personally this is THE model ship and one that has had the biggest influence on my future style of modelling,but I shall post it again for anyone unfamiliar with it;
http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/le_ambiteux/index.htm
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.
After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.
For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.
The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.
I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Rather you than me Michael I do agree the mass production factory method is possibly the only route for a task like this one and maintain sanity at the same time I do think they will add a great deal of visual interest with that degree of detail painting.Your new order of things is the correct way,that was the way I used to do it with armour figures many years ago and was,although I say it myself,quite good at it.Only thing that may make things easier to 'see' is to paint the whole head with a white base coat that also forms the whites of the eyes.This may make it easier to see the shape of the eyes when cutting back in with the yellow.Just a thought.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for your very encouraging remarks, likes and for just dropping in (;-)
 
----------------
 
So a very partial (just beginning) update, but I thought that if someone could find this useful I would post.
 
Working on all 50+ very small lion heads for the gun doors.
 
At first I picked each one up one at a time and started with the yellow paint
 
Then again one at a time painted the bit darker mane.
 
Then one at a time added the red for the mouth
 
Then went back to add the white for the eyes.
 
No no, no, no, what a nightmare; the eyeballs were too big, the mouths were odd looking. It was taking way too long. My eyes were asking me what I was doing?…
 
So going back to square one.
 
Needed to create a “factory” sort of assembly. My solution
 
Step 1 used a piece of packing tape and placed all 50+ heads on a board.
            Step 2 I will paint all 50+ eyes
            Step 3 I will add all 100 eye pupils
            Step 4 I will paint all mouths
Step 5 I will NOW paint the face and overlap correctly eyes and mouths with yellow
Step 6 I follow up with darker edge manes.
 
This should save quite a bit of time (I hope)
 
those that have been sort of completed will be "fixed"
 
PS: Yes I know that the 1/10th has just yellow, along with eyes. Adding a bit of poetic license to this bit.
 
I’ll post when done. May be overkill!!
 
Cheers.
 
 
 

Mr S. has done amazing work for sure Bud.
 
E

I have posted this link before,but for me personally this is THE model ship and one that has had the biggest influence on my future style of modelling,but I shall post it again for anyone unfamiliar with it;
http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/le_ambiteux/index.htm
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
...some gorgeous work on that site...professional standards and art at its finest!!!
JP

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.
After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.
For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.
The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.
I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Can't take the credit for the beam idea mate,that is down to Mr Shevelev,I just thought it made so much sense.Cross checking dimensions and levels is soo much easier than trying to work inside a hull with loads of tumblehome
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.
After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.
For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.
The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.
I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As I am not working this weekend for a change,I have decided to concentrate on big structural stuff and leave the gratings for the limited time I have on weeknights.
After a thorough rub down of the poly on deck spirketing and gunports I have made a start on the deck beams.Incidentally,the varnished areas have now had nine coats of poly,'knocked back' every three coats.There will be another coat applied before using whichever treenailing method I employ,if any,flatted again and then the final coat.
For the deck beams,I have borrowed a method from Russian master Dimitry Shevelev.The beams slot through the sides of the hull.This allows the beams to be adjusted by shimming to ensure perfect deck alignment in relation to the gunports.Any adjustments become invisible when the final covering is applied inside and out.In addition to this,the deck structure can be built inside the hull and fine adjustment can be carried out to the hull sides before the beams are glued to the hull sides.
The plan is that all the plain beams are dry fitted,then removed to allow the deck clamps to be fitted inside the hull.The beam slots are then extended through the deck clamps to allow refitting of the beams.I know this joint will be historically incorrect,but would look identical from the outside although this area will be nigh on invisible on the assembled model.
I do anticipate that these beams will be fitted dry and removed several times,to allow the joints to be cut in them and to allow varnishing of the undersides before finally gluing in place.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Nils,Bill and Matti
I was just thinking a similar thing yesterday Nils It kind of reminds me of tudor buildings,although the colour is wrong.
I am enjoying to able to spend some decent time in the shipyard Matti I agree the lines are fantastic,although there is still some refinement to do on the model,predominantly the stern which is still a plain block.I am deliberately leaving this until the counter timbers are in place which can only go in once this main gundeck is about complete.I could fit them earlier,but would make everything so much harder to access. 
I have succumb to temptation and done a little treenailing.I have decided to stick to the original plan and go for unblackened copper.This decision is based on the 'Russian Palace' influence I have going on with this model and is a direction I have been moving toward.I have not ruled out doing the decorations in black As I have got further on in this pastime,my taste has changed somewhat and I prefer the darker muted aesthetics of this style to the gilded or carved boxwood ornamentation that is commonplace.
I have posted this link before,but for me personally this is THE model ship and one that has had the biggest influence on my future style of modelling,but I shall post it again for anyone unfamiliar with it;
http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/le_ambiteux/index.htm
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Jeeez Mate she looks the Business.. Clever idea with the deck beams !
 
E