NMBROOK

By The Way.. I've just cut out the 4 Full Height Gun Ports and opened out the Anchor Holes !
 
Cap Rails have been sanded and await painting !
 
All go on Ballahoo.. will need a little lie down at this rate
 
Stay Well
 
Eamonn

Hey There Kester.. Long time no hear
 
Yea, those pesky wee 'glitch's' hopefully will vanish amidst the deck/bulwark furniture & fittings (that specific one to which I alluded will surely get caught up in the Fore Belaying pin ropes etc.. he says hopefully  )
 
Good to hear from you again !
 
Thanks too to all the 'Like Buttoners' always much appreciated !
 
Stay Well
 
Eamonn

Eamonn,
 
Just catching up with your log again, and see you've made a very good job of your deck. Well done. BE is right of course, as those things that shout at you as being not quite right now, will blend into semi-obscurity once all the deck fittings, etc., are in place.

Thanks mate Your spirketting looks great and finishes everything off wonderfully   I wonder if go faster stripes are going to make it in to the book of nautical teminology?          
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks for stopping by Joe & Holty (not sure how much you'd get from me as your Lady N is wonderful, I'm pretty much making it up as I go..  )
The Go Fasters are Beech Dee_Dee and the rest Maple,  Bluenose looks snazzy with them, especially with the King Plank too ! the contrasts you achieve are really rather beautiful .
 
All The Best Folks..
 
Stay Well
 
Eamonn
 
Oh and thanks to Nigel for his excellent use of the  Go Faster Stripes phrase !!

Latest Copy of Clamps Pegs & Pins available.. The new cover photo is shown below !!
 
All Righty Then I got the Spirketting done and all that is needed now is to shape it at the Aft Gun Ports Port & Stbd as it sits a little proud and to open out the Hawse Pipes (Anchor Holes)  I knocked up a couple for the transom also (not sure if these are right or not but they seem to work)
Next up is painting inside the gun ports and giving the bulwarks a final coat also..
 
Stay Well Folks.
 
Eamonn

It seems we are posting at the same time Jason Yes the structural timber will have been of Oak but decking was quite often made from cheaper,easier to obtain timber.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks mate    
Yes these are more 'art' than 'authentic'.They do however add a nice feature to the deck.Theory behind it stems form the two king planks on french vessels that actually act as a binder longitudinally along the deck beams. As Eamonn mentions quite a common feature of the Russian Palace style.I have a few drawings of Italian origin 'mimicking' this,but to be frank they got it all wrong and looks too over the top.Hardest thing is gauging the distance apart,I have seen some builds on the net with them close together,definitely looks more GT40 than period ship.Ummed and arrd about using them on Mordaunt,but I am having ebony frames on the gratings on the upper deck to reflect the black on the museum model so would have been too much going on.See Alex's Cumberland build,he did his in Ebony.
 
Kind Regards
Nigel

Thank you very much indeed Alistair   I am glad that I have moved away from my preferred boxwood for the deck.It was upon seeing a fine model of la Salamandre on other site by a professional French builder that made the decision.The warm glow of the finished pear against the ebony swung it for me   The only boxwood used was for the carvings.I am hoping that any dramatic colour variation will be toned down with the shellac(another first and learning curve for me   ).
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

I would have to agree with Cap'n'Bob, as well as Nigel.
 
Best Regards,
Pete

First thing that came to my mind is as Nigel and others have posted.  Further, some adjacent planks end at the same spot.  I don't believe there would ever be two adjacent strakes with butts on the same frame, so this reinforces the idea that this is the builders way of showing off his framing.
 
Allan

I`m with Bob, Nigel and Pete
 
That model is very interesting in look it is expressing his /her Feelings about the planking Job in a very Special way...
 
Nils

Just a couple more pics to illustrate the 'tissue technique'.There is still a fair amount of scraping to be done,the dark spots are low spots.Just gave what I had done a light scrape to tidy things up as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a couple more pics to illustrate the 'tissue technique'.There is still a fair amount of scraping to be done,the dark spots are low spots.Just gave what I had done a light scrape to tidy things up as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

Thank you very much indeed Mark and Matti  
I know some very notable modelers Dr Mike included advocate colouring the glue Mark.To be honest the idea fills me with some trepidation.First off is the glue will conform to any irregularity in the plank edges,but more so is Pear is like a giant sponge and can't help but think bleeding issues may occur.I can understand it working with Boxwood as this has minimal absorbency and is a very different animal all together.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Have to agree with the others Nigel, that deck looks REALLY nice. Your tissue paper technique is interesting and appears to work very well indeed.

Just a couple more pics to illustrate the 'tissue technique'.There is still a fair amount of scraping to be done,the dark spots are low spots.Just gave what I had done a light scrape to tidy things up as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

Looking at the pics I can't help but think that is the finished product.I suspect the other side is fully planked and this side is to be left open to show the frames.This does follow actual construction process on the real thing but can't help think it is frought with problems on a model even with a planking expansion drawing.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Apologies for not being around much of late Nils and having to play catch up.I love your 'model engineering' approach to creating the details,great work!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

Just a couple more pics to illustrate the 'tissue technique'.There is still a fair amount of scraping to be done,the dark spots are low spots.Just gave what I had done a light scrape to tidy things up as work progresses.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Really nice looking deck planking Nigel. The tissue looks just right.
 
Bob