NMBROOK

Setting the tiller for steering either for Manual direct, or for steering with tackle rope and wheel. In raw shaped condition, Needs to be fine tuned...
 
 
 
 

here the tiller parts
 

tiller mounted to the Fitting socket
 

tiller upwards curve for Manual steering
 

or in downwards mode for rope steering (via blocks and wheel)
 
 
 
 
Nils

I think this Version for the swivelgun handles will do...
 
 
 

 
I am using the 15 mm Long gunbarrels from RB Models web-shop with a little updating. The Pivot boring is predrilled by RB already, with 0,5mm boring in about 1 mm depth only (not through), and the Little hole at the barrel-end is made with aid of a small gig, the handle is soldered in 0,8mm brass wire and a small metal bead is slipped onto the wire and AC glued at the end
 
Nils

Build log part 36
 
 

gunposts still raw shaped...
 

additional pillars beneath the Quarterdeck beams, and gunposts octogonal, with metal collar.rings, as well as Center hole to take up gun-brackets
 

swivel gun prototype mounted. the rail shown here give riged reinforcement to the gunposts in opposite to the (later to be mounted) roughtree rails, that Need good support
 

prefitting anchors (Position check) on the foremast cannels
 

 
 

 

 
 

view aftwards beneath the Quarterdeck ( four new pillars fitted)
 

view beneath the forecastle
 
 
 
 
Build log part 37 to follow...
 
Nils

today doing the roughtree rails
 
 
 
 

the ends made in metal
 

hight check is OK
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
Nils

Looking at the pics I can't help but think that is the finished product.I suspect the other side is fully planked and this side is to be left open to show the frames.This does follow actual construction process on the real thing but can't help think it is frought with problems on a model even with a planking expansion drawing.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

Looking at the pics I can't help but think that is the finished product.I suspect the other side is fully planked and this side is to be left open to show the frames.This does follow actual construction process on the real thing but can't help think it is frought with problems on a model even with a planking expansion drawing.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have started a job on the side that will run in conjunction with the main construction work.This is that of the figurehead.There are differences between museum model and the kit.The main one being there are two 'characters' behind the lion.I say characters because I am still uncertain as to what they are They remind me very much of the 'purple' thingy on Matti's Vasa build .However these affect the shape of the prow considerably and I will need to produce this trio of carvings to be able to determine the prow shape.
Some good news is that the museum model's Lion is tailless unlike the one on the kit plans and it is not clutching an emblem also shown on the plans.It is a nice change that research actually simplifies a design .Anyway I chose to take a copy of the Lion shown on the plans and use this,just omit tail and emblem,as it will be far more convincing than my freehand drawing attempts.The copy was glued onto a piece of European box of suitable thickness.
I first milled the slot for the prow,but leaving a small section at the feet.This will be removed later when the bulk of the shaping is done,it simply serves to keep a little strength for now while the rough work is done.The profile was cut using a combination of the miller,large scalpel and burrs.The result in the pics is from about 8 hours work!!.
The very thin wafer at the mouth will hopefully be the tongue when finished
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

Thank you Pete I am feeling chuffed to actually put an idea into practice that nobody else to my knowledge has done before     As I said to Eamonn it is a slow process and much care is needed,but the results seem superior to other methods.When I have a little time,I will post a little tutorial on using it as the techniques differ a little to using paper due to the very delicate nature of the tissue.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Nigel, in the long run it will look fantastic, so I think that its worth the time involved, I will deffenitly try this method in the future.
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thanks mate Yes it has a nice warm hue to it when finish is applied.It can be a pain to work with as the add piece has some wacky grain pattern to it and has resulted in a couple of planks hitting the recycling The tissue I am more than pleased with,it gives the sharp line but not quite as wide as paper.the strength issue is also sorted as I glued the waterway sections together into one length and fitted and bent it as one piece!The deck laying process due to the tissue and tapering is ridiculously slow,but I am confident worth it in the long run.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Nigel, Great job on the deck . I will have to try black tissue as caulk. "it's Brilliant "
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Wow that pear wood does look the biz Nigel, seems to produce a lovely sharp edge.  The Black Tissue is wonderful too (gives a very subtle appearance)
 
All The best Mate
 
E

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

A bit of an update.Taking a fulltime job that was really too good to miss has slowed everything down to a painfully sedate rate .The rear section of the port side of the hull is now complete.Before continuing further and completing this I have got a little sidetracked .I wanted to 'prove' all my methods and theories regarding the interior.Having given my timber choices a great deal of thought over the past couple of weeks I have changed things a little.Basically everything will be pear and ebony apart from the ornaments.The hull below the waterline is in abeyance as to whether to go with box or pear,but pear is the current favourite.I realise my stairwell has been done in box,but I have the option to airbrush a thin brown wash on this to darken it.However when the stairs are fitted this will become almost invisible anyway.
First job was the waterway,this was milled using a 6mm dia ball cutter in the mill.The waterway is in sections joined together using single scarph joints.The 3mm thick spirketing is hook scarphed together,probably done too good a job on these because they are almost invisible    .The quickwork is simply 1.5mm planks.This takes me up to deck clamp level.There is a small gradual taper to add to the top of the quickwork to suit deck levels as it approaches the stern.This is easier to do on the model to ensure everything works out to the upper gunports.
Now the decking The central planks are parallel but from then on there is a for and aft taper to follow the waterway.Decking of this period has many similarities with the French method.I measured the width from the last parallel plank to the waterway at each deck beam position and divided by the number of remaining planks.This gives the required taper when transferred to the pear.The deck planking is sawn edge on from 6mm Pear sheet.This gave me the option to make it well overthick to allow for scraping and blending to the concave waterway.After each plank is cut and tapered,black tissue paper is glued to one edge and one end and trimmed flush when the alaphatic is in a 'green' stage.The top face is not so critical as scraping will remove any excess.The black tissue has been used on all joints,deck and waterway,up to the top edge of the waterway.The spirketing upwards features no caulking.
The pics are rather 'warts and all'.any funny discoloration is due to the copious amounts of water brushed on during the gluing process to remove glue seepage.This will disappear when everything is scraped and sanded.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Yes it just started to rain when I took the last two pics

Looking at the pics I can't help but think that is the finished product.I suspect the other side is fully planked and this side is to be left open to show the frames.This does follow actual construction process on the real thing but can't help think it is frought with problems on a model even with a planking expansion drawing.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Ok I have found one,but off to bed so you will have to wait until morning for an answer
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Looking at the pics I can't help but think that is the finished product.I suspect the other side is fully planked and this side is to be left open to show the frames.This does follow actual construction process on the real thing but can't help think it is frought with problems on a model even with a planking expansion drawing.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Update time...
 
I needed a break from cutting out frames having done about half of them so far.    So.... installed the first three frames,  added spacers for strength and position, and cut the bridle port.   The keel is just set into position as are the upper and lower sills for the port to help in squaring everything up.
 
The bridle port is build up on the frame sides and the upper and lower sills rest on the "build up" with the middle frame being cut out for the port.  Thankfully, it's the only one like this.  The rest are cut into the frames.   There's a conumdrum on the plans.  The cut-away with the ports outlined is more "square" where as the framing plan shows the fore end of this port higher on the hull.  I went with the framing plan.  I hope I picked correctly.

In answer to the scarph joints in the keel you are both correct .On French vessels they were horizontal,on English vessels they run vertically
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

You are correct Steve,yes Charlemagne it is,another positively crazy looking French Pre-dreadnought  
Over to you
 
Kind Regards
Nigel

Ok I have found one,but off to bed so you will have to wait until morning for an answer
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel