NMBROOK

Hi Shawn
I have done this numerous times on RC builds.I have looked at your log to see what you are up against.The stumbling block is the rail being fitted around the deck edge.You need to be able to 'drape' the cloth over the hull.The cloth is left overlong at the deck edge until the resin is 'green'(set but not cured hard) and then trimmed flush.You have two options.
1,You can paint the hull with epoxy resin.This will harden the hull skin and make it impervious to water.This method means a lot last filling and sanding to get a nice finish for paint.If you buy some ZAP finishing epoxy resin and epoxy thinners.Mix the resin as suggested and then add the thinners to produce a water like consistancy.Thoroughly mix it,it will go milky and then clear when thoroughly mixed.Apply the resin to the hull using a paintbrush generously (having masked off everything else)the more you put on,the further it will penetrate into the balsa.Clean the excess off with the brush after a good soak.The cure time for this resin is 3hours,however Epoxy does not stick to itself once fully cured unless you sand it.Therefore leave it for 1 hour and apply another coat with freshly mixed epoxy again thinned.After three coats you may find most of the grain is filed at which point you can the apply more epoxy unthinned.Two more coats again at one hour intervals should give you enough build for 'knocking back' with glasspaper.Do not attempt to sand the hull for at least 48hrs.This gives the epoxy plenty of time to harden up,otherwise your glasspaper will just clog in a few strokes.It is a case of a thorough sanding and fill the low spots with car body filler.Make sure all low spots are keyed before applying filler.Looking at your build,I would also coat the interior with a couple of thin coats of resin to seal everything further because you will get some water in the hull during sailing.
2.A little different in that you use laminating resin instead.This involves cutting the 'chines' form glassfibre mat.I wouldn't use chop strand mat or tissue,but use fine woven glass fibre cloth.This is used by aircraft modellers to 'hard skin' balsa wings and fuselages.Cut the four chines out of the mat using scissors.You need to have made cardboard templates first.When applying the epoxy mix as directed(no thinning) and apply to the hull.I would work on one section at a time as you get less worktime with this resin and you haven't done it before.After applying resin for one panel(don't put loads on because you will only end up removing it)lay the cloth on the section.Then using an old bank card and making sure you hold the cloth so it doesn't move,Scrape along the surface similar to using a cabinet scaper.This 'forces' the cloth through the resin film.Keep repeating this operation with light pressure stroking the cloth to force out air bubbles and wipe away the resin build up that appears as you do this.After this resin goes tacky,but not hard,apply a further coat of freshly mixed resin without cloth.This is to avoid breaking through into the mat when sanding.Sand the hull being careful not to expose the cloth.Any low spots will need filling as before.
Hope this gives you a little insight as to whats required.Personally I would go with option one and see how 'hard' the hull becomes.When sanded you can always apply option 2 over the top.Option one is easier if you have never done it before.
One last note,ensure wherever you work is at least 16 deg c when you do this.Epoxy will lay dormant and not cure at temperatures below this.
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Shawn
I have done this numerous times on RC builds.I have looked at your log to see what you are up against.The stumbling block is the rail being fitted around the deck edge.You need to be able to 'drape' the cloth over the hull.The cloth is left overlong at the deck edge until the resin is 'green'(set but not cured hard) and then trimmed flush.You have two options.
1,You can paint the hull with epoxy resin.This will harden the hull skin and make it impervious to water.This method means a lot last filling and sanding to get a nice finish for paint.If you buy some ZAP finishing epoxy resin and epoxy thinners.Mix the resin as suggested and then add the thinners to produce a water like consistancy.Thoroughly mix it,it will go milky and then clear when thoroughly mixed.Apply the resin to the hull using a paintbrush generously (having masked off everything else)the more you put on,the further it will penetrate into the balsa.Clean the excess off with the brush after a good soak.The cure time for this resin is 3hours,however Epoxy does not stick to itself once fully cured unless you sand it.Therefore leave it for 1 hour and apply another coat with freshly mixed epoxy again thinned.After three coats you may find most of the grain is filed at which point you can the apply more epoxy unthinned.Two more coats again at one hour intervals should give you enough build for 'knocking back' with glasspaper.Do not attempt to sand the hull for at least 48hrs.This gives the epoxy plenty of time to harden up,otherwise your glasspaper will just clog in a few strokes.It is a case of a thorough sanding and fill the low spots with car body filler.Make sure all low spots are keyed before applying filler.Looking at your build,I would also coat the interior with a couple of thin coats of resin to seal everything further because you will get some water in the hull during sailing.
2.A little different in that you use laminating resin instead.This involves cutting the 'chines' form glassfibre mat.I wouldn't use chop strand mat or tissue,but use fine woven glass fibre cloth.This is used by aircraft modellers to 'hard skin' balsa wings and fuselages.Cut the four chines out of the mat using scissors.You need to have made cardboard templates first.When applying the epoxy mix as directed(no thinning) and apply to the hull.I would work on one section at a time as you get less worktime with this resin and you haven't done it before.After applying resin for one panel(don't put loads on because you will only end up removing it)lay the cloth on the section.Then using an old bank card and making sure you hold the cloth so it doesn't move,Scrape along the surface similar to using a cabinet scaper.This 'forces' the cloth through the resin film.Keep repeating this operation with light pressure stroking the cloth to force out air bubbles and wipe away the resin build up that appears as you do this.After this resin goes tacky,but not hard,apply a further coat of freshly mixed resin without cloth.This is to avoid breaking through into the mat when sanding.Sand the hull being careful not to expose the cloth.Any low spots will need filling as before.
Hope this gives you a little insight as to whats required.Personally I would go with option one and see how 'hard' the hull becomes.When sanded you can always apply option 2 over the top.Option one is easier if you have never done it before.
One last note,ensure wherever you work is at least 16 deg c when you do this.Epoxy will lay dormant and not cure at temperatures below this.
Kind Regards Nigel

I buy dedicated Epoxy thinners from the model shop.Any thing else I think will affect the strength.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

My pleasure Shawn,as long as the resin is thin enough and penetrates the balsa,there won't be any problems.Some builders use cellulose dope instead of epoxy,but I have cracking issues with this in the long term so I stick to epoxy.
Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you Nigel, you were a huge help and I was already thinking of just epoxying the hull and calling it good but wasn't sure if that'd work but you confirmed that it will. I had also already planned to epoxy the inner hull where I can reach to water proof the interior.Thanks again.
Shawn

Hi Shawn
I have done this numerous times on RC builds.I have looked at your log to see what you are up against.The stumbling block is the rail being fitted around the deck edge.You need to be able to 'drape' the cloth over the hull.The cloth is left overlong at the deck edge until the resin is 'green'(set but not cured hard) and then trimmed flush.You have two options.
1,You can paint the hull with epoxy resin.This will harden the hull skin and make it impervious to water.This method means a lot last filling and sanding to get a nice finish for paint.If you buy some ZAP finishing epoxy resin and epoxy thinners.Mix the resin as suggested and then add the thinners to produce a water like consistancy.Thoroughly mix it,it will go milky and then clear when thoroughly mixed.Apply the resin to the hull using a paintbrush generously (having masked off everything else)the more you put on,the further it will penetrate into the balsa.Clean the excess off with the brush after a good soak.The cure time for this resin is 3hours,however Epoxy does not stick to itself once fully cured unless you sand it.Therefore leave it for 1 hour and apply another coat with freshly mixed epoxy again thinned.After three coats you may find most of the grain is filed at which point you can the apply more epoxy unthinned.Two more coats again at one hour intervals should give you enough build for 'knocking back' with glasspaper.Do not attempt to sand the hull for at least 48hrs.This gives the epoxy plenty of time to harden up,otherwise your glasspaper will just clog in a few strokes.It is a case of a thorough sanding and fill the low spots with car body filler.Make sure all low spots are keyed before applying filler.Looking at your build,I would also coat the interior with a couple of thin coats of resin to seal everything further because you will get some water in the hull during sailing.
2.A little different in that you use laminating resin instead.This involves cutting the 'chines' form glassfibre mat.I wouldn't use chop strand mat or tissue,but use fine woven glass fibre cloth.This is used by aircraft modellers to 'hard skin' balsa wings and fuselages.Cut the four chines out of the mat using scissors.You need to have made cardboard templates first.When applying the epoxy mix as directed(no thinning) and apply to the hull.I would work on one section at a time as you get less worktime with this resin and you haven't done it before.After applying resin for one panel(don't put loads on because you will only end up removing it)lay the cloth on the section.Then using an old bank card and making sure you hold the cloth so it doesn't move,Scrape along the surface similar to using a cabinet scaper.This 'forces' the cloth through the resin film.Keep repeating this operation with light pressure stroking the cloth to force out air bubbles and wipe away the resin build up that appears as you do this.After this resin goes tacky,but not hard,apply a further coat of freshly mixed resin without cloth.This is to avoid breaking through into the mat when sanding.Sand the hull being careful not to expose the cloth.Any low spots will need filling as before.
Hope this gives you a little insight as to whats required.Personally I would go with option one and see how 'hard' the hull becomes.When sanded you can always apply option 2 over the top.Option one is easier if you have never done it before.
One last note,ensure wherever you work is at least 16 deg c when you do this.Epoxy will lay dormant and not cure at temperatures below this.
Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you so much Marc for your very find comments I would say though I still have plenty to learn,the journey is a long one and I doubt the day will come when I don't learn something new every day
Van de Velde the elder did an engraving of the ship.Payne also produced an engraving of the ship.Both contradict each other I chose to follow Van de Velde's work for many reason's but not least because his work by so many is deemed to be extremely accurate.He has also produced some great work on another big project of mine,Lenox.I am doing the groundwork for this at the moment,but hope to be'laying the keel' after Caroline is complete early in the new year.
This is a picture of the engraving,I have a large copy courtesy of the book by Hiendrik Busmann

 
 
This did actually start as a kit which was 1/84.Over the last year virtually all what I did use from the kit (the hull skeleton) has gone,but I am left with the scale.I would of chosen something a little larger had I started with a clean sheet of paper.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

I did some aluminium casting a number of years ago.This was using a sandbox and wooden pattern.I used a premium LN4 billet if memory serves me right.The issue I found was that whilst pouring the molten aluminium develops impurities on the surface as you pour.These run into the mould with the the material and result in inclusions in the casting.These could be problematic for anything of modeling size.It took three attempts to produce what I wanted.If you can produce wax masters in the same mould and then build them into a 'tree' I should imagine the cost of having someone else do 'the pour' will keep the cost down.You must include the runner and riser in your master.
Kind Regards Nigel

Hello Dan I have checked the major suppliers and so far the smallest appears to be 3/16 radius.
 
New Cockpit part 3
 
All four corners are now glued and the final shaping is underway on the corners.
 

 
The sharp radius turned out well.
 

 
The oxidation of the fir decking is obvious now that the wide section of the old cockpit has been removed.
 
Michael

Thank you so much Marc for your very find comments I would say though I still have plenty to learn,the journey is a long one and I doubt the day will come when I don't learn something new every day
Van de Velde the elder did an engraving of the ship.Payne also produced an engraving of the ship.Both contradict each other I chose to follow Van de Velde's work for many reason's but not least because his work by so many is deemed to be extremely accurate.He has also produced some great work on another big project of mine,Lenox.I am doing the groundwork for this at the moment,but hope to be'laying the keel' after Caroline is complete early in the new year.
This is a picture of the engraving,I have a large copy courtesy of the book by Hiendrik Busmann

 
 
This did actually start as a kit which was 1/84.Over the last year virtually all what I did use from the kit (the hull skeleton) has gone,but I am left with the scale.I would of chosen something a little larger had I started with a clean sheet of paper.
 
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi everyone,
 
Just a quick update; completed the trim install on the port side, now on to the starboard side. Here are a few pics. As always thanks for looking in.
 
Michael
 

I did some aluminium casting a number of years ago.This was using a sandbox and wooden pattern.I used a premium LN4 billet if memory serves me right.The issue I found was that whilst pouring the molten aluminium develops impurities on the surface as you pour.These run into the mould with the the material and result in inclusions in the casting.These could be problematic for anything of modeling size.It took three attempts to produce what I wanted.If you can produce wax masters in the same mould and then build them into a 'tree' I should imagine the cost of having someone else do 'the pour' will keep the cost down.You must include the runner and riser in your master.
Kind Regards Nigel

I did some aluminium casting a number of years ago.This was using a sandbox and wooden pattern.I used a premium LN4 billet if memory serves me right.The issue I found was that whilst pouring the molten aluminium develops impurities on the surface as you pour.These run into the mould with the the material and result in inclusions in the casting.These could be problematic for anything of modeling size.It took three attempts to produce what I wanted.If you can produce wax masters in the same mould and then build them into a 'tree' I should imagine the cost of having someone else do 'the pour' will keep the cost down.You must include the runner and riser in your master.
Kind Regards Nigel

You can melt aluminum, if memory serves at about 1300°F, iron and brass is about 2100°F.. You can get a pot of aluminum to liquify by using charcoal or gas as a fuel, the web has much info on sand molding and furnaces. You are thinking along the same lines as myself about casting the guns, using castings you can cast the trunnions in, that is a big plus to me. What is running around the back of my mind is casting them using the lost wax method, maybe I will need to go to the art department at some college, that does bronze figures, they probably use induction furnaces.
jud

I woke up this morning thinking about Ed Tosti's miniature clamps and one thing led to another.
 
I rummaged through the scrap spring box and made two sizes of clamp. one with a 1/16th steel rod  and one with a 2 inch finishing nail.
 

 

 

 
 
The small wooden block has a clearance hole for the steel rod, depending on the springs one has. the 1/16 rod used some old bic lighter flint springs
 
the bent finishing nail used a tension spring stretched out and then used as a compression spring/ These clamps close to about 1/64 but this design has a lot of possibilities for different openings like miniature bar clamps even
 
The short piece of dowel for the handle is a tight fit
 

 

 
 
I can see that i will be making a few of these using coat hanger wire as well. I made the bend short but I am posotive that a longer bent arm will also work.
 
These will be useful where it is difficult to use a clothes peg type.
 
Michael

Nigel;
WOW, this is intense especially all those tree nails on the hull.  So perfect.  I am always amazed by the people - you included -  that have perfected the art of ship modeling ( I know it takes time to learn and practice of doing, that is with everything).  Excellent workmanship.
 
Questions:
Why is it on the works of Willem van der Velde de Oudere (the elder)? 
Did he do a painting of this boat? 
Why 1/84th?  I never heard of this. But then again one can do a boat any scale he or she desires.
Did you adjust it to a scale you liked best?
 
Thank you
Marc

I have had a lovely long holiday weekend treenailing I have completed both sides under the wales and intend to give this area a few coats of polyurethane for protection.I have also inlaid some small pieces of maple to represent the bowtie piece that joins keel to sternpost.
Kind Regards Nigel

I have edited this first post in view of my log relocation.This build did start as a modified version of the Deagostini partwork,but as you read through the log,you will discover virtually nothing remains from the kit.
  To date I have built and planked the hull.So far the only kit parts I have used are the bulkheads.These had to be reprofiled at the stern to give a 'proper' round tuck stern.The planking below the walnut wales is maple and that above is boxwood.The walnut section at the top is to be painted black(I used walnut as it is a third of the cost of boxwood).I have cut the gunports as per the instructions but I am going to 'double line'the gunports on the upper deck to reduce them in size.
 At present before I final size the gunports and add anymore detail,I am replicating the treenailing on the whole hull.After reading about the many different techniques I chose to drill 0.4mm holes then use dark wood filler.The hull was glass smooth and fully sealed before starting,and I found the process fairly simple akin to grouting tiles,although I estimate at between three and four thousand holes to be drilled!I made a simple jig to assist in marking where the frames would be.
Regards Nigel

Thank you Ferit
The one good thing is this log won't be out of place in this section when it goes on for a few years  
Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you Ferit
The one good thing is this log won't be out of place in this section when it goes on for a few years  
Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you Ferit
The one good thing is this log won't be out of place in this section when it goes on for a few years  
Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you very much Michael Whether your post prompted this action,I don't know,but I thank you anyway.I do feel a little guilty,that with all the interest in this log,I haven't worked on this build for five weeks.If I feel I can afford some time off at Christmas,I shall remedy that.
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Nigel,
It's nice to see your build where she really belongs...
If she continues to stay at kits section I have to think what is mine...
In fact it was a pleasure to see your SoS at the same Log, for me to belong to the section where she was, now she had gone away...

I have to admit my patience has been stretched several times working on the prow deck.I have had numerous pieces filed in the 'recycling section' and have had to remake them.I feel I am on the home straight now,but I can't believe how long it is taking.I include some pics of as it is today.The gratings are caldercraft 1mm ones as small children could fall through the ones supplied.
Kind Regards Nigel

Thank you very much Michael Whether your post prompted this action,I don't know,but I thank you anyway.I do feel a little guilty,that with all the interest in this log,I haven't worked on this build for five weeks.If I feel I can afford some time off at Christmas,I shall remedy that.
Kind Regards Nigel