NMBROOK

Hello all,
I made some progress on Santisima Trinidad. First of all I need to thank to Pablo from Spain (in this forum known as Anaga) who is my consultant during designing of the kit and who give me a lot of important information about the Santisima Trinidad. After consultation with Pablo I decide that the kit will offer two options for building the stern gallery-one is shown in the photo of prototype model and one is shown in render from 3D CAD.
The kit will contain gun carriage and full gun barrels in all four gun decks (36pdr guns are shown in the photos).
Best regards
Daniel

Both are fantastic Daniel but as you might guess the Trinnidad is my favourite     .I am glad you have carried over the upper jig design from The Nuestra Senora  .I hope you will keep updating us of progress,if only so I can carry on drooling like Ulises  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Another update - port side decorations done & cap rails installed & finish applied to the rest of the hull. I think its time to turn my attention to the bow area - looks a bit tricky.
 

 

 
Mark

Update - After painting the background black,the side decorations were trimmed to fit around the gunports,painted gold & glued in place.The joints were filled with some filler & smoothed over & painted. The forward most section will be fitted after the positions of the cathead brackets are determined.
 

 

 

 
The port side decorations will be fitted next.
 
Mark

Absolutely wonderful work Amalio    
 
May I ask how the lining planking is fastened to the mould to allow latter removal?
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Head rails and Bow underway......the supplied head rails take some manipulation before they fit over the stem and they readily get nicked up as the metal is quite soft!  However, Euromodel has supplied rails that are infinitely better than I would have been able to come up with. The images show stages in progress and I'm constantly revising my thoughts on just how final finishes will look. As additional components are added my thoughts change...........
 
JP 

I have to chime in and agree with Mark on this one E J.My research on Sovereign revealed cannons facing towards the maindeck.Main aim to mutilate any boarding party that dare attempt it.Yes it would work,but half the masting and rigging would be destroyed in the process Mary rose had similar cannons None of it makes sense now,just the way they built ships back then
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
A lateral update – my usual posts - ha ha..
 
So, I decided to add some detailing to the galleries. The Vasa (based the on super detailed 1/10th) is certainly hard to grasp from a Corel kit.
 
PS: just a thought – Who really knows if the Vasa was as colorful and as highly detailed (art work) as is represented on the museum’s beautiful model.
The actual resurrection galleries, as an example, are very plain by comparison to the model (they appear to be rebuilt as well). So it appears that the goal of many kit/scratch builders is to try to emulate the model’s look. I, then added some detail bits as well.
 
My completed galleries before added details
 

 
Used some extra painted wood bits from the just completed railings. Purchased a necklace, and used the bits for the bobbinets (glue added so that beads would not fall off string when cut)

 
Received from Corel two new weather deck cannon opening trim rings

 
Here are some finished up shots. 

 
Now on to some added detail work for the bowsprit framing.
 
 
This 1/10th pic makes me very insecure Hmmm

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

One last bit of similar “detailing”-- added some small verticals to the bowsprit framing.
Pics before update
 

 
And such luck!! Those left over necklace bits just sort of perfectly fit between the white trim pieces. Now that was a pleasant experience.
 

 
PS: I know that the cathead braces (anchors) are not even an approximation of what they should look like – but done here – moving forward. – I think?
 
Onto installing and attaching the lower main and its shrouds.
 
 

The quarterdeck is now planked. To begin with, I added the subdeck. Then, I lined the inner bulwarks with strip wood that was trimmed and then painted red. Next, I did the planking, using holly, beginning with margin planks that were bent to shape before installation. Once again, a pencil was used to simulate caulking on one side and one end of each plank.  The last step was to do the the drill and fill treenailing, using golden oak filler.
 
When the planking was done, I made up the quarterdeck hatch. As with the forward hatch, I used  kit walnut strip for the coaming, and Syren boxwood grating material.
 
All-in-all, a very straight forward segment that went pretty smoothly.
 
Bob

Thanks so much Nils, Scott, Don, Red and the "likes".
 
Don, I think I may have had something other than coffee in my cup when I took those pictures.   Not very good. I'm attaching a couple that, hopefully, are better.
 
Bob

After doing all of that hull planking, I felt like doing something very different. My choice was to do the stern. This work began with the wooden transom piece which was wet bent to shape and then glued in place. I then did the stern lights (windows), using the very nice kit PE pieces, which fit almost perfectly. I painted them using some old Floquil buff and glazed them with Micro Kristal Klear. After that, I cut in the counter vent ports and added their hinges, using the kit PE pieces, and their ringbolts. Then, I did  the final painting of the counter and added the moldings at the bottom of the transom and the bottom of the counter. These were done with boxwood strip, scraped to a simple double bead shape.
 
Next was the metal transom piece, which contains the stern decorations. Following the lead of Joe V, I decided to paint the background blue, with the decorations to look like natural wood. After bending the metal piece to shape, I did the painting. For the blue, I used Pollyscale B&M blue. For the wood color, I used the Floquil buff, followed by highlighting and shading done with Modelmaster wood color. The metal piece was then glued to the wooden transom piece, using medium CA.
 
The stern work was completed by making and installing the taffrail. This was done by wet bending a piece of holly strip to shape and painting it black before gluing it in place.
 
The next work will be the quarter deck area.
 
Bob

Outstanding work Gianpiero!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hey There Lawrence .. The Road Works are finished , Woo Hoo by the way ...
The Story So Far .. LOL     I picked up a Milling Machine ! then my Aunt got ill and my free days are taken up helping to take care of her .   Ballahoo is out on my Building table, the room is clean and the next step is ready to go .. that next step is the Block & Tackles for the guns and Boy are they fiddly ! I'm not using the kit ones you see but instead Chuck ones (Yup the small ones.. the ones where if you breathed in too near them you are likely to suck them into your nose  )  Am even trying to tempt Karen (the future Admiral all going well) into helping out with them !
I recently (last few days) picked up the Plans for 'Haddock' from the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich London, this is a sister ship to Ballahoo and I intend to display the suitably framed Plans behind Ballahoo !  
So please do keep checking in folks as I haven't abandoned ship !  Just finding boat building time to be a scarce commodity.
 
Thanks again Lawrence for stopping by and for the kind words !
 
All The Very Best
 
Eamonn
 
PS I didn't receive a usual notification that you had posted .. Sorry for taking so long to reply !
 
E

I've spent the past couple of weeks doing the second planking of the lower hull. Since I didn't want to paint the planking, I had chosen to do the lower hull in holly to represent the tallowed planking. The lack of painting also meant that the planking would have to be done in a prototypical manner. Since neither the kit plans nor AOTS showed a lower hull planking layout, i had to create one , based on typical practice.
 
The procedure followed was to use tick strips to measure out plank width at various points and to maintain the same number of planks throughout. This was accomplished by tapering each plank to achieve the correct plank width at each measured point. The holly bends easily, so I decided to edge bend the tapered planks rather than spiling. The bending was done by soaking in boiling water. The planks were beveled on one edge, as necessary, to achieve a close fit, and then a pencil was used on one edge and one end to simulate the caulking. The planking was sanded smooth and then finished with Wipe-on Poly.
 
I'd like to say that it came out perfectly, but it didn't. Small errors in measurement, and the almost inevitable effects of creep. led to some funkiness in the last strake or two on each side. I am happier with the starboard, done second, and that is the side shown in the photos.
 
Bob
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Finished installing the upper railings. As I mentioned in a previous post I had my “issues” installing the horizontal rails on each side of the foremast after installing the shrouds. So that done, as well as some tidying up of the carriage ropes I can move forward and attach the mainmast, and its lower shrouds.
 

 
Now needed to make the bent 90º planks to link the horizontal bits.
 
Well that had its issues as well. Hmmm.
I must have tried to bend 50 pieces (needed 10) All but one plank allowed itself to be bent 90º. Even tried soft wood to no avail. I believe it was my lack of skills, and the extreme bend that was needed?
 

 
So plan B. 
 

 
Last pic I will be pulling out those badly made pulley/blocks now that I have, and know how to (more or less) use my Proxxon MF70 J
Before “moving forward” I plan to revisit the galleries and add some details. This is certainly one of the most difficult areas of this ship to articulate correctly especially with the Corel kit as a base. Not complaining – this has been widely discussed here at MSW with those of us building this ship. I had some left over bits from the upper railings that will work very well.
 
Cheers
 

 

Hi Mates,
 
After drilling the needed holes and squaring them along the lower railings got close to attaching the main mast, and the shrouds, then – for some reason – as I was squaring the last of the railing holes, I decided to attach the needed horizontal rail at the foremast (where the squared holes had already been completed; to be sure that the vertical beams would all align properly when it was time to glue those long horizontal rails on each side.
 
Then realized that having pre-attached the foremast shrouds, before fixing in place the upper rail trim bits was a big mistake.
 
Now trying to align the squaring of the pre-drilled holes, adjusting the heights of the vertical braces is a real pain. Hmmm So before I attach the lower main, mizzen, and their shrouds, I will build all the rest of the upper rails first.
 
PS: Mark I should have gone back to your log (Marktiedens #103) and taken your sequence into consideration. Frank and I had also discussed this issue J we were both concerned about installing the upper railings before all the rigging work in case of breakage later on - (being all thumbs and all) Oh well, still an adjustment work in progress.
 
 
Here are a couple updated photos.
 
Regards,
 

 
 

Hi all.
Just a thought before I continue - If anyone has thoughts about getting a Euromodel kit their web site is offering their kits at 20% off for a limited time. I have no connection to them - just a satisfied customer.
On with version 2 of the stern railings. I decided that my little scrolls did not look that great,so I decided to change them back to the kit supplied oval decorations with a little modification. The first picture shows the decoration as supplied. I modified them by carefully cutting out the recessed portions to produce a better 3D effect as shown in the second picture. After painting & gluing in place I am happy with them. Next,I will work on getting the lower wales in place before finishing the stern while I can still lay the ship on its side.
 

 

 

 

 
Mark

A little more progress has been made. While working on the railings between the middle & upper decks I didn`t really care for the little ovals that fit in them,so off to the art & craft store I went to browse around. I found some items in the bead dept. that looked like some fancy scroll work & looked about the right size so I bought some & installed them in the railings. They really seemed to dress them up a bit.
 

 
Then I cut out all the window panes in the upper windows & painted them.With some very minor adjustments they were fitted in place,along with the railings.
 

 

 
Then I made & planked the upper deck & slid it in place. All 3 of the stern decks were made from 1.5mm basswood sheet planked on both sides with some brass mouldings around the outside edges.The brass mouldings were left over from a previous build. The very top rail will be fitted after the fascia is in place.
 

 

 
The lower & middle windows are also now "glazed".
 
Mark

Hi Geoff
 
With pine (provided you are not cutting through any knots) I would say cut the depth of the diameter and you will be OK i.e. 3mm deep for 3mm diameter etc.I would not go any deeper than 1mm for a 1mm cutter,you are more likely to snap the cutter rather than burn it out in this instance.I would halve this rule for harder woods
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Geoff
 
With pine (provided you are not cutting through any knots) I would say cut the depth of the diameter and you will be OK i.e. 3mm deep for 3mm diameter etc.I would not go any deeper than 1mm for a 1mm cutter,you are more likely to snap the cutter rather than burn it out in this instance.I would halve this rule for harder woods
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Geoff
 
With pine (provided you are not cutting through any knots) I would say cut the depth of the diameter and you will be OK i.e. 3mm deep for 3mm diameter etc.I would not go any deeper than 1mm for a 1mm cutter,you are more likely to snap the cutter rather than burn it out in this instance.I would halve this rule for harder woods
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Geoff
 
With pine (provided you are not cutting through any knots) I would say cut the depth of the diameter and you will be OK i.e. 3mm deep for 3mm diameter etc.I would not go any deeper than 1mm for a 1mm cutter,you are more likely to snap the cutter rather than burn it out in this instance.I would halve this rule for harder woods
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Geoff
 
With pine (provided you are not cutting through any knots) I would say cut the depth of the diameter and you will be OK i.e. 3mm deep for 3mm diameter etc.I would not go any deeper than 1mm for a 1mm cutter,you are more likely to snap the cutter rather than burn it out in this instance.I would halve this rule for harder woods
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Greg,I'm with Jaager on this.I read your post earlier and Cypress sent alarm bells ringing,but haven't had time to investigate.Somewhere I had heard that Cypress has an open cellular grain.Trolling the net doesn't confirm or deny this.However it's density and low hardness would say this is probably correct.I feel that the wood is swelling and shrinking at different rates as others have said.Due to it's characteristics,it could even be the moisture from the glue that is causing it.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel