bigcreekdad

Have faired and sanded inside and out. The photo suggests otherwise in places, but all ribs are pretty even on both sides. Still a minor amount to do, but I'm starting to cut the inner plants and flooring. Was going to do most of the inner in cherry, but I'm still having breakage problems. I've broken enough in this hobby to know these breaks are not from undue handling. Bought the cherry at Woodcraft. Might just have to buy from the suppliers others use on this sight.

Decided to use walnut instead for at least the inner planking closest to the keel. BTW, the two pieces you see are not attached.

Any way...Onward!!

Very impressed!  Keep going.

Bit the bullet and rebuilt the broken frames. Required me to remove all frames from the keel, and thus build ,a new keel as well. All frames mounted, and added several spacers for holding proper spacing as well as added strength. All drying now. Will need to do some serious sanding to fare everything up.

In the meantime, need some suggestions for the inner planking and decking. I'm going to use pear from the outer framing. I have some holly, and plenty of cherry, but would love to hear some thoughts from others.

Give up...been there, done that, and it just gets worse.

Drives my wife absolutely nuts, so she stays out of my den....so, it's not a completely bad thing.

Saw is about 15 months old. Today it started changing speed during a cut. Stopped it, restarted and the variable speed dial at first didn't work (no change in speed) then it did. I started cutting again and it start to slow down mid cut. Reinstalled the blade, just to do something, but it continued.

Anyone experience this?

Moved to this saw from a basic Sears unit. Thought I was stepping up. Pretty disappointing.

Update....found the speed adjuster loose. I retightened, and also found I had the recently installed new with pins, incorrectly tightened with the adjustments that are used with pines blades. Seems to be operating OK now.

I've got some cutting to do tomorrow, so I'll see if works OK.

MTaylor.... when they break I generally say a bad word.

Uncle...I think most are lined with the grain, but, honestly, not sure.....maybe this is an issue.

How about tree nailing?

The breaks are not clean. Sadly, I have thrown them away. They are at the joints, but it breaks on the opposite side, and they are jagged.

I have started, then scrapped my progress 4 times now. Lousy frame cutting, breaking frames, 3 tries coming up with an acceptable jig to get the frames to set at a good consistent 90 degrees.. 

I'm darn near ready to scrap it all again and start from scratch. Before this, I ended up scrapping a scratch build Hannah, and based on advice here, thought I'd give a cross section a try. I want to make another attempt at the Hannah someday, but I now realize fully well that if I can't master a cross section, I'm never going to be able to do a decent full scratch.

A few questions....I've been using cherry for the frames. I don't know if I just have had some bad pieces (bought at Woodcraft), but my frames seem to break easily. at the joints.  First question....is there another wood for the frames I might try. Second, I've not been tree nailing the frames where they overlap. Is this mandatory and would this cut down the breakage?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I've had a cheap combo belt/disc sander for several years. I use the belt sander to fine tune frames after cutting them with my scroll saw. Yesterday, the table adjustment control broke (plastic of course) and the table will not set at 90 degrees from the belt. I tried using the disc, but there is too big a gap between the disc and the table, so trying to work with small pieces is very difficult. Bottom line...time for a new sander. I realize that the Byrnes sander is the standard, but my price point is around $200 max, and also, there is usually a bit of a lead time on getting borne's products. 

Any thoughts on good sander in my price range?

Excellent job. I'm just now doing deck fittings on my Pickle. I hope my end product is even close to yours.

So.....what next for you? I will next begin the Fair American.

The kit supplied eyelets are so small, I'm having one heck of a time trying to work with them. Has anyone experienced this, and did you substitute another type?

Wow.....Thank all of you for your service. The best of the best.

Gary....great job!

Is that a fly tying vise in the pic of the deadeyes and copper wire. Might you be a fly tier?

I use the galloping horse thingy when my wife asks if she is still beautiful.

BTW....Your ship looks awesome!!

Looking good...I've got to get back to mine.

Gary

I am very impressed! The Fair American kit is "on the shelf", and will be my next kit build after I finish the Pickle. To even come close to your ship would be a big accomplishment for me. Your build log will be visited often when I start her.

John

Great looking build!!

I started this at the advice of several members after a failed attempt at my first POF build...The Hannah. So far, I think it was darned good advice. Hopefully, I'll complete it and will be pleased, and will then move on to another attempt at The Hannah.

I chose cherry for the keel assembly and the frames. Not sure about the rest. I've got a nice supply of Swiss pear and boxwood, as well as some ebony and bloodwood (which looks intriguing). Not to mention plenty of cherry left. Any thoughts or suggestions from others are welcome.

I'm posting today a pic of the keel assembly pieces, as well as completed frames 0 and 1.

Hopefully more to follow.

I hate walnut. It looks good after you are done, but a real pain to work with. I'm working on the Pickle now, and for the upper half of planking I used cherry. 

I've had two, not sure which models, but I never got a straight cut. Don't use them anymore/

for those who asked, the blade I am using has around 16 teeth per inch. Too many??

I'm cutting 3/16 apple for my Triton cross section build. I've got the blade pretty tight, but it seems to bend a bit as I'm pushing the wood through. Is this normal? Different blade? Too much effort on my part?

I am never satisfied with my hull planking attempts. I've narrowed my hull strips towards the bow, but have never spiled them at the top. My question is, how do you spile planks with the standard planks that come with kits. It seems like they would need to be twice as wide to start.

I'm trying to cut some hull planks out of cherry. I have tightened down the rip fence to get the width I want, but when I feed a strip of cherry to thin the width the strip begins to be squeezed to the point I cannot push it further. When using a .30 Thurston blade, the blade would literally be bent outward if I tried to force it a bit. When going up to the .40,  the strip pinches down so tight I can go no further. The cherry is around 1/8th of an inch in width.

I gotta be doing something wrong. Any advice?

Chuck....looks fantastic. BTW, where did you get the pinstripe tape?

Thanks/John