Landrotten Highlander

Hi Rob,
I started a Billings Boats Bluenose.  Happy with this as first kit. Instructions are restricted to plans only (it is an old kit, not sure if that has changed recenty).  I have made some changes to it as I felt that I could improve the model that way - changed dack layout to something closer to the real thing, altered some parts such as wheel and blocks from plastic to wood).
I am still plodding along at a very leasurely pace.
 
As far as your model is concerned, I think it is best to go for something that tickles your fancy and falls within ur tastes.  That way you will stay motivated (even if the mode is meant to be a learning piece).
 
Also, start a building log on this site, and ask questions as they come up.  Lots of folks will give advice.
 
Slainte
Peter

Continuation.
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Hi Rob,
I started a Billings Boats Bluenose.  Happy with this as first kit. Instructions are restricted to plans only (it is an old kit, not sure if that has changed recenty).  I have made some changes to it as I felt that I could improve the model that way - changed dack layout to something closer to the real thing, altered some parts such as wheel and blocks from plastic to wood).
I am still plodding along at a very leasurely pace.
 
As far as your model is concerned, I think it is best to go for something that tickles your fancy and falls within ur tastes.  That way you will stay motivated (even if the mode is meant to be a learning piece).
 
Also, start a building log on this site, and ask questions as they come up.  Lots of folks will give advice.
 
Slainte
Peter

Thanks a lot again! It is always a pleasure to see the new posts here
Speaking of the dockyards - sorry for hijacking your topic, hope you do not mind a few photos from Hamburg maritime museum:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Más

To make the bowsprit....start with a square stick of boxwood 5/16" x 5/16".  The inboard section will remain square.  The outboard side is rounded off and tapered.  There are three square holes on the inboard sides.  But these start out as round holes made on the drill press while the entire stick is still square.
 
There is also a sheave on the outboard end.  The holes for this simulated sheave are also drilled while the stick is square.
 

 
Then the outboard end is measured and marked for the 7-10-7 ratios to make it an octagon.  From an octagon it is then made round.  There are many way to do this.  Mini-plan...files...by hand....then rounded off on a lathe or even chocked in your hand drill.
 

 
Then I made it round...in my hand drill...and taperred it to match the plan while doing so.
 

 
Once that was done...the simulated sheave on the outboard end was detailed.  I used a #11 blade to connect the holes and carve it out a little.  Then mini-files were used to round off the simulated sheave.  Later I will darken it with pencil.
 

 
The three inboard holes need to be made square...again there are many way to do this.  I decided to just use my #11 blade to carefully square off the corners.  The inboard portion will eventually be painted black.
 

 
The outboard end also has a metal band with four eyes around it.  This was made from paper.  You could use art tape or even brass if you wanted.  Again there are so many choices.  It was painted black and weathered so it looked differently than the wood elements painted black.
 

 
Then it was mounted in the hole at the bow and the fit tweaked.  Once it looked good,  the bowsprit step was slid onto the inboard end.  You wouldnt be able to slide the bowsprit in position if the step was already glued in place.  So this is a bit tricky.  But soon after I was able to get it all in position and glued securely.  Then I touched up the paint and cleaned it up.
 

 

 
Next up the long guns can be positioned....but I am unsure of I will add them.  They will look very crammed in there.  I will have to contemplate that for a bit.

Nice work so far, and a briliant solution to the length problem.
Re focussing the camera - I have found that if I am too close to my subject the camera struggles to focus.  Taking the picture from a bit further away, then cropping it on the computer solves this.
Slainte

I have a couple of pics of Prince, the first is the hull structure before planking:
 

 
And this is Prince waiting for the new decoration:
 

Thank you guys (and girls)
 
Here are a few studio shots of the completed Victory, with figurehead and flags..
 

 

 

 

 

 

Historic docks and shipyards in Denmark.
 

The first in Denmark dry dock located on the waterfront in the Christianshavn.
Dock was constructed in 1739. (National Museum of Denmark)

Part of wooden dock structure.

The Royal Arsenal in Copenhagen (The Royal Naval Museum)



The Royal Navy base at Holmen Island.(The Royal Naval Museum)

Shipyard in Copenhagen (The Royal Naval Museum)



Ship on the slipway ready for launching (The Royal Naval Museum)

Mast crane at Holmen Island
 
Tadeusz

I also fixed the guns
 

 

 

 

 

Thank you very much, my friends!
Continuous slowly work on thieves:
 

 

 

 

 

Hello,

many thanks for the nice comments.

It continues with a short update:
 

 

 
 

Hi Mark -
 
Checking in again and love what I am seeing.  Those deck beams are very nicely done, and you should be justifiably proud of them.
 
As for decking, you have to be careful about the differences between British and French practice.  Since the French were strategically blockaded by the British for most of this period, their ship designs favored speed over carrying capacity.  With lighter hulls and scantlings they could make more knots, but the ships 'worked' much more than their British counterpart of similar size.  To counteract this they strengthened the decks with longitudinal stiffeners called binding strakes that were thicker and set into the deck beams, much the way the stringers stiffened the fuselage in those balsa wood planes we all built as kids.
 
Here are several contemporary cross sections of French ships.  Note that the outer binding strakes are set into the deck beams but do not rise above the deck surface. However, the ones toward the center rise above the rest of the deck level.  In fact, the entire center section of the deck is raised.  Frequently these binding strakes are shown on models as being contrasting color from the rest of the deck.  Whether this was true on actual ships, I do not know.
 
Further, as seen in the models, the gratings are set flush with this raised section of deck and do not have the coamings that are such a feature of British ships.
 
Didn't mean to make extra work for you, but hope it helps.
 
Be well
 
Dan
 
 
 
 
  

Many thanks,
 
for nice and appreciated words.
 
And here is the continuation with a few pictures:

 

 

 

 
 

Thanks  Pat, Albert,Tom, Nils, and WackoWolf,
 
Sorry that I didn't get back here sooner.  It has been a crazy week.  In addition to the two Heroine models, I'm rushing to finish a model of the Serce Limani wreck for the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology.  Heroine takes up more work days and Serce fills my nights and weekends. Hopefully, Serce will be completed soon and I'll finally have some free time again.
 
As for Heroine, this week I worked on the roof trusses.  Kevin wanted 15 inches of crown to the Hurricane deck so it didn't leave me with much depth to work with.  I decided to play it safe and go with something simple.  We wanted a light structure so the spacing between trusses is a little large but, they used tongue and groove planking that would have distributed the load and added a little strength (as well as making it a little more watertight).  The roof will be covered with tarred canvas.
 

 

 

 

 
The trusses haven't been fastened in place yet and are little out of alignment.  Started working on the floor of the pilot house.  The opening will be for a trap door to the cabin below.  I left the longitudinal timber a little long for support.  They will be cut off even with the forward edge of the corner pieces.

Build log part 2
 
 
I know it sounds strange to start making the propellers where the hull is not even on the slipway, but I was wondering if I could make them from brass, as they are a typical detail, in the way they were designed 118 years ago......., and as I`ve never seen such model props on the model market, it would be a pitty if I had to fit regular model brass props
 
 

 
I fell in love with these elegant stern lines, designed for speed
 
 

 
here some of the detail parts, in total there are 38 to be made single parts per prop, port- and stb. props rotate counterclockwise with appr. blade twists
 
 

 
raw hub with mounted, drilled and slotted calottes to take up the blades. The slot orientation is set with card template angle jig. The hub raw material is 8 mm squarebar, with centerline boring and M3 thread
 
 

 
blades soldered on and brushed over, the soldering per gas tourch was quite tricky
 
 

 
started to fit the resembled blade fastening bolts with distance sleeves and hexagonal dome nuts. Here six bolts (in actual would be 8 or 10, but that was to tricky for me to drill at that scale...
 
 

 
The actual props had a diam. of 6800 mm, resulting in 47,2 mm model scale 1:144
 
 

 
without bolts....
 
 

 
with bolts
 
 

 
the first prop took me 2 days to make, the second 1,5 day (learncurve)
 
 

 
here original design drawing with 3-blade hub
 
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Two down - Eight to go!

Hope you landed safely 
 
***********************************
 
A while ago I had been able to purchase at a good price a 'left-handed' Lorch, Schmidt & Co. cross-slide, which is what was needed for this project. In Germany, watchmakers for some reason traditionally worked with the headstock to the right, and not to the left as is common practice in virtually all other lathes. Some older watchmakers still seem to work like this, but I gather the majority nowadays, prefer to have the headstock to the righ. In consequence, cross-slides that are meant to be mounted to the left of the headstock and operated mainly with the left hand are relatively cheap to come by.
 

Actuall a right-handed cross-slide but the used was in similar condition (forgot to take a ‘before’ picture)
 
The one I received looked a bit worn on the outside, but mechanically was still in a good condition. Spindles and spindle-nut were tight. However, the nickel plating was chipped and peeling off. I completely diassembled the cross-slide and ground-off the remaining nickel with fine wet-and-dry paper and polished the surfaces. Then all parts were thoroughly cleaned.
 

Cross-slide taken apart
 
The spindles have the 0.75 mm pitch commonly found on cross-slides for D-bed lathes. Not very convenient for calculations, but I got actually used to it on my D-bed lathe. The dial on the y-axis (the future z-axis of the mill) was actually graduated with 15 divisions, giving the diameter reduction when turning, though it has the same pitch as the x-axis. On the mill this graduation would be confusing and I also wanted to have a conical dial on the z-axis. So I moved the x-axis dial to the y-axis, which is the future x-axis of the mill, and made a new dial for the future z-axis.
 

Taper-turning for the new cross-slide dial
 
For this, a 20 mm piece of brass was drilled and reamed for the 4 mm-spindle. It was then taken onto a 4 mm-arbor for further machining. The lathe top-slide was off-set by 45° for turning the conical shape. In the same set-up the lines on the dial were engraved using a pointed tool-bit - the lathe head-stock, as for all watchmakers lathes, can be used for simple dividing. There are 60 stop-holes, which was convenient for the 15 stops needed here.
 

 

Engraving the cross-slide dial on the lathe
 
The engraved dial was then moved to a special jig I made some years ago, that allows to punch numbers onto conical dials. After punching, the dial was moved back to the arbor, the exact position had been marked before removal, and the burrs thrown up by the engraving and punching were removed by a light cut, leaving behind crisp lines and numbers.
 

Set-up for stamping the numbers onto the dial
 

Cleaning up the engraved dial
 
 
To be continued ....

Hello everyone,
 
Sorry that I've been away.  Progress has slowed with the first model while I try to get caught up on the second.  I didn't want to bore everyone with the replay.  Fortunately, most of the parts are already machined for the first model and only need to be assembled.  The process is going fairly quickly.  I was able to add a few details such as doors and bunk rails to the first model and will start on the roof trusses next week.
 
 
Second model going together.

 

 
 
Bunk rails in.  My wife has started on the mattresses.  They are a piece of fabric stretched around a piece of foam board with the paper faces removed.  Then eight stitches to represent buttons.

 
I decided to mill the doors instead of building them from individual pieces.

 
Not happy with the paint job.  I should have sanded after the first coat.

 
 
Top painted.  Sorry for the poor photo quality.

Added the rudder and some other small details . . . now a coat of clear matt paint and then it's time to proceed with the second boat . .  
   
 
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20160916_205406_zpslqmygcaw.jpg

02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20160916_205713_zpsrj5hzvd6.jpg

03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/20160916_205348_zps4g1zac0d.jpg

 

Another photos 
 

   

I do not have pictures for the exact stairs in this model but I am doing them all the same way. Here are the pictures for several stairs I build.
 
Alexandru

Hi,
During my visit in Karlskrona last week I have seen works in shipwright workshop.
There wooden ship boats are constructed and repaired using traditional methods.
 
Tadeusz
 

Hello,
 
The stairway was an afterthought. Initially I planned to just paint black the corresponding opening but then - quite late in the process of building the base - I changed my mind and added it as you can see in the below pictures.
 
To do it, I just dril a lot of holes with a 1/4in bit inside the rectangle delimited by the hatch coamings. Then with a big file and a lot of effort while trying not to damage what was already done I made the hole sides nice and smooth. The sides were painted black and the stair was added in.
 
If you want to know how I actually did the stair, let me know as I have pictures on that process also and I can post them.
 
Regards,
Alexandru