Landrotten Highlander

Hi,
I collect photos concerning hull structure and construction from presently
constructed replicas of Dutch ships  De Delft ( in Rotterdam)   and De 7 Provincien ( Batavia werf in Lelystad).
They show details of the construction of the hull
.
Tadeusz
 
De Delft
 
Spring 2003

Keel and stern post

Frame details in workshop. On the floor are drawn shapes of frames in scale 1:1.


Large scale structural model for final checking of frame shapes



Frame details machining
 
August 2015





 

Eine Sitzbank für drei Personen aus Eisen geschmiedet im Masstab 13,47 für das Maerchenschiff.
Das geschmiedetet Eisen ist bruniert.

This is an updated partial look at my DRUID rigging details spreadsheet, centered on main mast connections.  I am liking this more and more.  This will be pretty standard for detailed rigging systems in the future for me:
 

 
If you read across any row you can identify all rigging lines that are accounted for and the run of the lines themselves.  So, for example, the Main Yard Jeers (7" line) has a one 20" double block attached to the yard, two 20" single blocks lashed to the Main Mast Head, a double block attached on the deck by the mast then a second double block for mechanical gain, then on to a sheave in the rail prior to affixing to the pin rail.
 
If you read down any column, you can see what connections any one part should have.  So the Main Top Gallant yard is exactly identified (all the sail work lines are farther down out of view).
 
I am still working through the sheet from several different angles to insure its completeness.  Next steps are to identify the lay of each line and also whether any serving is required.  Lots of in depth learning which is making me very comfortable with the subject matter.
 
mark

Hello,
 
the captains sleeping cabin is now ready. Today I build the chest with drawer for his clothes and the washing table with the washbowl. 
 

 

 
Yesterday I finished the cod. This little pice was really tricky to build. 
 

 
Tomorrow I will start with the lobby. When I understand it right, was this room the dining room for the captain and his guests (normally one or two of his lieutenants) and also a conference room. I would build a table for six persons and chairs instead of benches.   In one corner I would set a corner cupboard and that should be all. 
 
Did I anything forget, or should I build it in an other way? A large part of this cabin would't be build, because of the open space.
 
Regards,
Siggi

Finally, a friend of mine put together a movie.
See here:

Rigging, rigging, rigging.  I am relatively new to the details of this subject and prior to going much farther on the masting work wanted to have a firm plan on what should be done when, specifically regarding blocks / thimbles / and collars.  Before I get into the details I am working three questions with respect to this cross section:
 
1.  Should I include rigging features that are used for the sails on the main mast, but have no termination. A good example are the braces.  The pendants can be quite long and will be left dangling since the forward connection points are not present.
2.  A related question are rigging features that are used for the mizzen or foremast.  A good example are the mizzen stays.  There are several collars on the main mast that would lead these stays to the deck below.
3.  Last are the temporary used features, like the topropes for raising the topmast into place.
 
My initial thoughts are:
1.  Include them, but shorten up the pendants so they don't stick out so much.  They will be empty blocks at the end of the pendants.
2.  Include them. Again, empty blocks.
3.  I would like to include these for education opportunities (both for me and people looking at the model).  I need to insure with all the other rigging place these can be in place.
 
For my education I am using TFFM - Antscherl, Rigging Period Ship Models (square rigged) - Petersson, Anatomy of the Ship (Endeavor) - Marquardt, Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War - Lee and Plans for the HMS Brilliant from the Smithsonian (prior to renaming Druid).
 
This is an American cargo ship converted to a British Sloop of war so there are lots of questions and deviations from any one source.  The first task was to understand what rigging lines I need to handle and what they touch.  This is captured in a spreadsheet still undergoing review (partially shown):
 

 
Green means there is a touch point between the line and the component listed at the top.  For my sanity I split the masts into component pieces.  Once complete I can look down through any column and insure every one of those touch points are handled (hopefully prior to putting on the model).
 
After tracing everything a couple more times and verifying them the next step will be to identify line diameters and block types and sizes (TFFM at its best).  Then I will feel confident enough to proceed.  My biggest issue was getting this global view.  For running rigging, the diagrams 'usually' don't include the details from the standing.  Something was always missing for simplicity.  This spreadsheet overcomes that issue.
 
Lots of learning.  I feel like I should re-read those Aubrey-Maturin books now, I would have a MUCH better understanding of the at sea events.
 
Mark

Hello,
so it goes on with the construction report.
To stow the sloop on the deck, I have to build the poultry houses. These lie between the gratings.
For construction of the poultry houses, I show you the following pictures.
I hope you enjoy the pictures.

 

 

 

Lighting
 
I made a small wood base for the battery, lights, and switch to fit inside the cabin space, I didn't want any of it visible.
 

 
The LED's needed to be raised above the deck level. My first attempt was to used 1/8" sq basswood to make raised frames. Although it was fun making all the lap joints, the frames were clearly visible from the outside when the lights were on and looked pretty bad.
 

 
So I stopped for a while to try and think of a way to hold up some extremely small LED's. I found some small diameter clear plastic tube.
 

 
It's actually the ends from the inside tubes of a couple of ball-point pens.
 
The wire was threaded through a small hole in the side and the LED's fixed in place by a drop of glue at the top. The tubes were a perfect push-fit over a toothpick dowel. One dowel in the base and the other in a low frame over the battery holder. A little bit of pale yellow paint over the tubes to soften the light and some soldering of wires and it was all done.
 

 
The battery overhangs the edge to make it easy to pull out and the whole thing just slips into the deck well and the cabin goes over it. Nothing is fixed down.
 

 
This is how she looks.
 

 

 
Final Thoughts
 
My first wooden ship model is complete    .
 
I've really enjoyed this kit. It wasn't too difficult, was good value for money, and the instructions using just the pictures were fine. All the pieces were cleanly cut and fitted well. If you're a little heavy handed as I am, adding some support pieces is a good idea. I would also have left the side rails until the very end - you don't want to know how many times I fixed them!
 
I would definitely do another mini-kit as a gift and one of the larger ones is now on my to-do list (but there's 3 others in front so it'll be a while).
 
Again my thanks go to Clare for posting his excellent builds, pointing me to this kit, and for the help with the rigging.
 
Thanks also to the many kind responses and all the likes. And to Bob Riddich for his inspiring build of the Higaki Kaisen.
 
BTW, my daughter loves it  . 
 
I asked my other daughter (she's almost 11) if she wanted one. She said no, she wants me to make her a desk. This means I'm going have to get the big saws out!
 
All the best,
Richard
 
 

Hello,
 
now I have also the beams fastened and the last stanchion is set, and Mark, the binnacle is painted.
 

 
But now comes the problem of this deck. 
 
Question for the experts and all who know something about this
 
Where should I stow away the rammers, sponge and wad hook for the cannons?
 
We have 7 cannons at every side of the quarter deck and 3 of them have no deck above them. So I could't store the side arms there. At the wall is not enough space between the cannons, see the picture. Later with the carronades, who where really shorter, they where stored there.
 

 
I would do it this way. First I would make the rammer and the wad hook into one item and store them all between the deck beams in front of the bulwark. May be also with the side arms from the cannons of the cabins so that the captain has only the cannons in his cabins.
 
The handspikes and smaller items are lying under the cannons and the buckets between them. The buckets from the cabins are stored in front of the bulwark. The match tubs I store at the upper gun deck also in front of the bulwark. (not visible) Because one gun crew operated the two cannons opposite each other, I think they need only one mach tub.
 
I hope you could help me, many thanks in advance
Siggi
 
 
 

She's Complete   
 

 
Well it's only taken a month to get everything else done! Work and home projects + some fun things got in the way (but generally in a good way).
 
Lanterns
 
These are small laser cut dowels with colored paper strips wrapped around them. 
 

 
In the kit, there are 5 each side but I needed them to be fairly sturdy so I only put 4 on each side where there are supports. A very small peg (turned from a toothpick) was added for extra security.
 
 
Stand
 
I decided not to use the stand that came with the kit. I'm not putting the ship in a display case and it would be too easy to knock off a shelf (it only weighs a couple of ounces). I wanted a dark base to show off the boat but didn't want it to be overwhelming so I took a length off poplar about 10" x 2 1/2" then added a thin layer of walnut on the top. Some 1/4" sq wood on the bottom gives a slightly floating look. This was finished with a few coats of wipe on poly and the nameplate that came with the kit.
 
I wanted to be able to easily remove the boat from the stand so I decided to use some magnets I already had. In the bottom on the boat I added two 3/32 cube magnets and inserted 1/8" dia 3/4" long magnets about 1/4" into the stand. These are very strong neodymium magnets that easily hold the model even with a layer of wood between the magnets. I then sheathed the magnets in brass tube (to match the brass on the model).
 

 
Extras
 
The larger Yakatabune model has some rope work on the oar and rudder. Clare (catopower) very kindly supplied the details for this. I used some of Chuck's rope (bought for my other build).
 
This is the oar wrapping 
 
The larger model has a wooden cleat to hold the oar rope..
There was no way I could fabricate this so I used 2 pieces brass wire soldered together. This was then chemically blackened (another first for me).
 
The oar is not very secure so I added brass wire to the pivot point and glued it to the figure supplied with the kit (he also has brass wire added to his feet!).
 
There is also rope added to the rudder. This is how the stern looks.
 

 
Well that's all for now. I don't want to make the post too long and it's late here.
 
I'll post the details of the lighting and final thoughts later in the week.
 
Thanks for reading,
Richard.
 

Well, I'm just going to jump to the end of the build here because I'm there! I added some paint details inspired by the Japanese paintings of these boats in Edo times. Yesterday, I whipped together a display pedestal to match the two I built for the Higaki Kaisen and Hacchoro models.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
Now, I can get back to other projects for a bit and experiment a bit with ways to make the hanging lanterns inside to light up the interior a bit. Pretty hard to see in there right now.
 
At this point, I'm mostly out of larger scale updated Edo Period Japanese boat kits. However, I do have two of their older coastal transport kits (Sengoku Bune), which pre-date laser cutting. Those kits are larger than the Higaki Kaisen. What I find interesting is that they are also more like traditional ship modeler's kits. That is, they provide patterns for cutting the hull strakes from sheet wood, frames are not pre-cut, but have to built from posts and beams, etc. Many parts are pre-cut, but there is no weight or space wasted on die-cut sheets. Instead, all the pre-cut parts are neatly packaged for you.
 
There were two of these Woody Joe coastal transport kits. The Kitamae-bune, is now out of production, and hopefully, we'll see an updated version soon that's as nice as the Higaki Kaisen. The other is the Sengoku-bune, which they still sell. This one is kind of a generic version of the coastal transport, not quite as large as the Kitamae-bune, which operated from ports along the Western shores of Northern Japan.
 
Either of these would make a better display model than the Higaki Kaisen because they are larger. They are incorrectly labeled as 1/30-scale kits, but are closer to 1/53 to 1/60-scale. Been thinking that a 1/48-scale model would be ideal for display purposes.
 
Also, it may be time to try to scratch build a boat based on the work of boatbuilder Douglas Brooks, who'll be speaking at the NRG conference in a couple weeks. 
 
I'll keep you posted!
Clare

nuevo taller

Thank you all for your feedback. 
 
Here is another update.

Hello,
 
just to show you, that I'm not lazy here, the first pictures from the wheels. I worked after the method EdT used with his HMS Naiad, but modified some parts. Thank you EdT for this tutorial.
 
At first I cut the triangles and glued then together.  
 

 

 
The next step was the axel. The pentagon is loose on the axle, hold only with a peg.
 

 
Here is all turned round and the parted.
 

 
I cut the channels for the spokes, so that the drill bit would have a direction.
 

 
Here all is glued together and I drill the holes for the spokes. I drilled the holes, because I did't have such a nice machine like EdT
 

 
Here I turn the interior free. That is now the second drum I turned. The first one did't make this step
 

 
Here the temporary spokes are installed
 

 
and I could turn out the rest. This time all went very well.
 

 
The spokes here have a diameter of 1,8 mm. The next days I will turn the spokes and they shod go done to 1mm diameter. I hope I will not get crazy about this work. 
 

 
Regards,
Siggi

Thanks Bob. I think this is working out pretty well. The model is supposed to have a row of plates at the base of the upper plank as well as the lower plank. But, since I've painted the lower plank black, I'm not sure that it's necessary to add the plates there. Real plates were actually inserted into recesses, and I know that on many boats, the lower recesses were often filled with putty instead. I presume that would then be painted over after the puttying.
 
The trick after all this is done is that there were often plates, or maybe they were just painted areas, on the deck house too. Not quite sure how I'll deal with that yet.
 
But, in the meantime, I was able to finish off the row of plates on one side of the boat. Turns out that a section of text I was having trouble translating was telling me to do pretty much the following:
 

 
Laying out a strip of masking tape with sticky side facing up, in my case I chose blue painter's tape, I taped the tape down to a flat surface and placed one of the copper plates on the sticky face, right at the edge. Then, using the plans as a guide, I laid down copper plates with 7mm spacing in between.
 
I trusted my skill with 5 minute epoxy since it's viscous enough for me to control and to keep a very thin layer, so I started with a needle, putting just a touch onto each plate, then going back and spreading across the plate with the side of the needle, regularly wiping off excess from the needle. I then peeled the tape up and laid the tape, sticky side down, along the edge of the plank, so that the plates were held in place in proper position until the glue set.
 
I think the Woody Joe instructions suggest applying instant adhesive one plate at a time and then rolling the tape down so that it holds the glued plate into place, then applying to the next plate, and so on.
 
This actually didn't take all that long. I carefully peeled up the tape after the glue had set, but while I could still push the plate slightly with my thumb nail to straighten and make final adjustment.
 

 

 
With this one side complete, I feel like I'm nearing the final stretch on this model!
 
 
Clare
 
Edit: Forgot to add this shot of how I was using the tape method at the bow...

gracias José. más avances

hello to all latest pictures of the construction site Fleuron
 
upcoming releases in a few weeks
 
amicably

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
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                        Rekon54

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Getting back into it means re-igniting a lot of brain cells and old memories.  Returning to the hull I spent a few hours sanding (and more sanding) (and more sanding) to get the whole hull trued up inside and out - primarily on the upper untouched surfaces.  I think I am now pretty close.
 
Using the power of the Hahn method, transferring the plan key points to the hull was done quickly and very accurately.  This included the top railing location (cut off point from the jig), gun and forecastle deck beams, and the four gun ports included in this cross section:
 

 
The biggest lines to add are the main chains, which I need to use another sheet of the plans to locate.  My next jobs are to cut and insert the gun port linings and also add the other deck clamps.  This will allow me to add the actual deck beams and get the mast footing in and all lined up.
 
As a side project I am starting to think through the crew.  This will not be a sterile cross section.  I got for last Christmas the following 1/48 figures:
 

 
My initial list shows the following requirements:
Cannon Crew:  3 figures
Officer:  2 figures
Deck Scrubber:  1 figure
Rigger on Spar:  2 figures
Ratline climbers:  2 figures
Person in hold:  1 figure
People in hammocks:  2 figures
 
Am I missing anyone?  That would be 13 figures.  I am going to sort through the 36 figures (2 of each pictured) and start defining who will be used for what.  There will be amputations, putty and maybe even some molded parts.  A nice side project when things are drying.
 
Another consideration I have to figure out sooner than later is what type of paint to use (and also primer).  This will be a painted ship.  The hull will be yellow and black (blue accents), gun deck red (except the floor), everything below deck white.  Mast will be white with Black tops.  I will need to start doing some experimentation on some extra basswood.
 
I need to get the wales black before adding additional planking next to it - much easier.  Still undecided on coppering the bottom or just painting white.
 
That is enough for now,
Mark

The next two steps are very straight forward and involve the deck house roof...
 
24 Assembly of the ceiling and Interior lights
• Glue the sockets using instant wood bond adhesive
 
There is a note in red at the bottom of this step that reads: Test the bulbs. In case of burn out, the bulb is 2.5 Volt, 0.3 Amps. Please use equivalent rating.
 
Most of the parts in this step are pre-cut and only require assembly. Only Part 18 comes from the supply of strep woods. This is a 2mm x 3mm strip which needs to be cut to 200mm.
 
Here's the section of instructions:

 
Here's the roof structure I built.

 
 
Because I'm planning on adding my own lanterns and using LEDs instead of the included bulbs, I didn't add the wooden  mounts for the lights. I'll be dealing with lighting at a later time.
 
Step 25 is nice and simple and just involves creating the roof panels.
 
25 Assembly of Roof Panels
• Make 2 sets.
 
Again, the parts are all pre-cut, so this is simple assembly.

 
The labels in red simply say, on the left "Front Surface" and on the right "Back Surface".
 
Now, I had one little accident with the deck house recently. I was working too close to it with a rag that had some wood oil remnants on it. The rag apparently touched one of the shoji screen panels and the oil marred its appearance. Worse, there was a spare included in the kit, but I couldn't find it. I came up with display options for keeping the panel hidden from view as much as possible.
 

 
Fortunately, I found the small piece of paper, which had fallen on the floor at some point, but was in good condition. So, I removed the old one, as can be seen in the above photo (the tear is from removing it from the panel), and replaced it with the new one. No problems...
 
 
Clare
 
 
 
 

Thanks for your comments Druxey. I couldn't play it though because it was out of tune. And to answer your question... No... No, there is no end! 
 
So playing catch-up just a little, here the rough text for step 22:
 
22 Assembling the sides of the boat cabin
• Install the vertical columns
• Cut and install part 36 to fit.
• The left and right cabin sides should be symmetrical.
• Add sliding shoji-A panels into the door frames. Do not glue!
• Install the lintels.
 
My Notes:
This is pretty straight forward. Part 36 is a pre-milled strip that the shoji panels fit into and it allows them to slide open and closed. The screens are supposed to fit so that the paper is on the outside. That means that you just have to pay attention to the fact that one cabin side has the panels facing one way and the other cabin side is the reverse. The illustrations in the instructions are pretty clear there.
 
Note the two sides of the cabin are mirror images.

 
Note that when cutting the parts 36 and 37, you'll have to measure to make sure they fit properly. 
 
Here's what part 36 looks like. Before the era of laser cutting, Woody Joe kits used to use a lot of milled wood parts, so it's not uncommon to still see a few pieces like these in their kits.

 
 
23 Attach Shoji
• Assemble the sills and attach the sides.
• Insert sliding Shoji Panel B
• Add the lintels  
 
After completing steps 22 and 23, the cabin looks something like this...

 
 
Oh, and if you want to minimize light leakage from the kit or other internal lighting you may add, make sure that the lintels, that's the upper piece above the panels, is flush with the tops of the vertical posts. I wasn't too careful with that, so I may have to add some kind of very thin shim or something.
 
 
Clare
 
 

Hi Piet,
regarding blackining your hooks, see this topic
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1240-another-type-of-blackening-agent-and-some-experiments/?hl=%2Bblackening+%2Bbrass+%2Bglass
 
In this method glass-staining is used to blacken soldered brass wire already attached to blocks (the whole thing is submerged in the blackening agent).  Only the metal is blackened, the block remains unchanged.
 
Perhaps an option?
 
Peter

Hi Piet,
regarding blackining your hooks, see this topic
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1240-another-type-of-blackening-agent-and-some-experiments/?hl=%2Bblackening+%2Bbrass+%2Bglass
 
In this method glass-staining is used to blacken soldered brass wire already attached to blocks (the whole thing is submerged in the blackening agent).  Only the metal is blackened, the block remains unchanged.
 
Perhaps an option?
 
Peter