sonicmcdude

Recently I was doing grating and would like to talk about a device that made my friend Sergey from Russia.
I think the principles of easy to see from the photos.
I myself could not do it out of iron, but I made out of wood and it works the same way.
I hope it will be useful to many.

Thanks John and Ben, but "you ain't seen nuthin' yet " .
 
Cowl Baffle
 
There is a wire reinforcing ring around the rim of the cowl. This was silver soldered on and cleaned up.
 
A baffle is attached to the opening of the cowl to regulate air flow to the stove's firebox.
 
I cut a disc of 0.3mm sheet, drilled two 0.7mm holes through it and silver soldered the two sliding pins. I filed the protruding ends down to simulate a peened over end.
 

 
Next I fabricated two sleeves for the slides to travel in from 0.75mm ID tubing and a 0.5mm pin to locate them correctly. These were CA glued into the cowl - too much heat would have been needed to solder them in and I risked destroying my previous work.
 

 

 
Finally two wire handles were drilled into the cowl and CA'd in. The whole assembly was blackened in stages and polished.
 

 

 
  Danny

Steam Grating
 
I've made my first (and maybe ONLY) Grating - this goes over the stove. I'm a bit reluctant to make too many more (maybe some on the quarterdeck) as they hide too much detail beneath.
 
The grating stock is 0.79mm thick English Box, a fraction oversize (they should be 0.75mm) but I decided to make them the size of a 0.030" kerfed saw blade on the Byrnes saw using the Micrometer Stop.
 
My first job was to make a list of the spacings (i.e. the Micrometer stops) using a spreadsheet. This made it a lot easier to work out accurately than trying to remember and then calculate each one (especially if I'm interrupted   ) :
 

 
Then I set up a piece of 2mm thick stock and started cutting 18 slots halfway through using the micrometer to set up each one (I made a couple of spares "just in case" - I needed them too ):
 

 
Then I cut each strip off against the fence, again using the micrometer stop. The measurements are identical to the previous cuts :
 

 

 

 
Assembly is the same as using kit gratings (fiddly, but at least they were cut more accurately than most kit ones). I dipped the grating into diluted PVA and let it dry :
 

 
After sanding the grating to size and gluing it into place I sanded the roundup in. I've also fitted the Cowl Base :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks my friends.
 
Finished the ratlines. This is the best method  I’ve tried. Putting a card behind the shrouds with drawn lines.
 
 

Hi all... this is my recently started build of the complete model POB of the Triton...here are some pictures...

Hello people,

and once again a story of small things with great effect.
The eye and ring bolts on the gun carriages have brought me to the brink of power capacity.
But now it's done. The fasteners on the gun carriages are ready, now only missing the trunnion straps and rigging

But see for yourself
 
 
The eyebolts
 
 
   
 
 
The Rings
 
 
   
 
 
The Ringbolts
 
 
 
Final assembly
 
 
 

 
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
Have fun
 

Hi all,
 
First off I must apologize for being tardy in responding to your kind words and comments.
It is the bane of this time of year for me when my part time retirement job becomes a fulltime
job and unfortunately starting Monday and for the next 20 days becomes an overtime job.
Oh well it's the price I pay for a lot of time off in the winter.
 
Thank you Greg.
 
Thanks Mark. I was pleasantly surprised on how the case came out.
 
Thank you Grant.
 
Thanks Bob, Hard to say right now but knowing me both will get attention just not sure which
will be primary and which secondary. It could change from week to week too.
 
Thanks Kevin, the end is a happy/sad time for me too.
 
Ok here we go.
 
To finish off the base of the case I purchased some molding which enclosed the top but
still allows for removal. It was all stained and sealed with polyurethane. I then attached the
cross section to the base by drilling through the base and into the keel and then screwed the
keel to the base.
 

 
And here she is in the completed case.
 

 

 
And some more pictures out of the case.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Again I would like to thank Russ for all of his hard work in the beginning making this
project possible and for his help and encouragement throughout not just mine but
everyone’s builds. And then to all of you who continually helped, encouraged and
proofed my efforts I give a heart felt thank you too.

Hi Aldo,
 
It goes step by step but I'll be coming there.
Today I went to the workbench, take a seat, watch the ratlines and…..walk downstairs again because I forgot my glasses………and don't go up again…..     
Thanks for asking !
 

Still sails to do and that's it
 

Because its a special project exclusively created for MSW.  We developed the plans and offer them to folks at no charge.  This forum was created to start a group that is working on them so ll logs and questions about its construction can be kept in one area.   This will help all participating members to compare notes and find information.
 
Chuck

Just a wee bit of update guys, the first planking of the lower hull has been finished:
 

 

 

 
So far, the hull shape seems acceptable enough to warrant proceeding to framing the gun ports
 
Sigh, it's times like these that I wish I was building a 4-gun schooner, instead of a 28-gun frigate

Hi Pete.
 
Here is a picture of how I did mine. I ran mine in a single piece from one end to the other.
Don't know if it's correct but it worked well.
 
 

 
I also see I need a bit of filler at the lower beam!  Damn macro pictures!  

Rusty and Paddy...thanks for looking in and the nice comments...
 
Was able to get the treenails done in the lower planks and 1 side sanded....
I am satisfied with they way they have turned out..think will look better once the clear coat "oil" is applied
 

 
Before moving on decided to fair the out side before to mush was in the way on the inside. Was a little worried about the way I decided to do this, but figured the worst
that could happen is that is falls apart and I start over.    But it held up really well  
 
Used my 5" orbital sander starting with a 40 gritt and moving up to a 220 gritt.
Done this outside using my porch railing and a old pillow
 

 

 
Once I got up to the 220 gritt I moved it to my leg for better control
 

 
So here is where it stands as of now
 

 

 

 
Have not yet decided on whether I will leave any of the framing exposed or plank the whole outside. Framing just doesn't look that good to me and I might just cover up the mess.
 
Time to look at the prints will be starting the lower deck framing next.
 
 

Here is a few pictures of my meager progress for the month...Hopefully will have more time here soon to devote to the build.
 
Using an old marking gauge I found in my pile of junk to lay out the line for the treenails. Originaly had a metal point to scratch the line but remove it drill the hole bigger
and is using a pencil. Seems to work rather well.

 
After marking use a sharp point to mark the hole locations so the bit will not wander.

 
I found the cutting the treenails into short lengths instead of using one long and cutting each time it is inserted into the wood was easier for me. This gave me a small
pile to work from.

 
Put a few at a time next to where I am working so I don't have to hunt for them

 
Once I get a few more in and some sanding done will post some more pictures. So back to the shop while I have time.
 
Hopefully will not be as long between post next time.

Hi Sjors,
 
You're just in time my friend, here are my latest updates 
 
 
While drawing my bulkheads, I've experienced some difficulties tracing the middle-most stations as they have incomplete lines (red boxes):
 
 

 
This caused some head-scratching for some time, until I recalled my previous findings:
 
1. The hull that I currently have has modified aft and fore bulkheads based on the "as proposed" Modified Mermaid Class Body Plan, which upon juxtaposing on CAD, is spot-on with the "as built" Triton Body Plan I am using now.
 
2. The deck levels and overall length of the MSW profile plan, which I used to create my centerboard were also pretty close to the as built plans.
 
To check for accuracy, I printed the fore and aft-most bulkheads that I drew on CAD and compared them with those on my current hull..... law and behold, they were very close indeed with a maximum difference of about 1mm in some areas.
 
These results, plus my hesitance to "guess" the shape of the middle-most bulkheads,prompted me to just continue working on my current hull, which is a mix of NMM-based fore and aft bulkheads and MSW-based bulkheads at the midship area.
 
I did some final tweaking to all my modified bulkheads using the cardboard cut outs of my CAD drawings then proceeded to drawing the stern frames. I decided to make only the innermost (green) and outermost timbers (blue)... a lazy shortcut I adapted from most of the kits I have built 
 

 
With the time consuming drawing-work finally done, it was time to make some wood dust in the workshop 
 
Of course, since this is an "experimental hull", I decided that I will double-plank her, starting with an initial layer of lime planks at the lower hull just to see how fair she would be.
Furthermore, since this is only the first planking, I will not strictly follow all the "planking rules" and just accept the "pointy" plank ends for now 
If the hull shapes up nicely, I will give it a decent second planking, if not.... well, let's just say that there will be a lot of extra wood for cooking barbecue 
 
As a review on why I went through all the above intricacies, here is the "bulge" in the lower hull that had me worried hence my decision to modify my bulkheads:
 

 
 
Here now is my "haphazard first planking" to show how the hull is shaping up... so far no bulge is rearing its head but I'll know for sure once I'm finished
 

 
I made the extensions of the bulkheads and stern frames thicker for strength... I will trim them down to proper size once I'm finished with the planking:
 

 
Here is my "kit-inspired" stern with only four stern timbers reminiscent of my Caldercraft and Amati kits..... note also my violation of planking rules giving rise to numerous "pointy" stealers 
 

 
 
 
Sigh... each time I see my NMM Plan alongside my model, I realize that I have a loooong way to go before she even starts to look like a ship
 

 
I thought I'd also make a size-comparison with my 1/64 Amati Pegasus Sloop:
 
They seem to be almost the same size.....
 

 
 
.... well, maybe not exactly the same size
 

 
 
That's it for now, my next update will be upon completion of the lower hull first planking, during which, I will decide if the hull shape is acceptable enough to warrant some decent second planking or if it is better suited as kindling for the barbecue grill

Forecastle and Quarterdeck Carlings
 
There are only a few Carlings on both the Forecastle and Quarterdeck, unlike the lower decks. These mainly support such things as Steam Gratings on the Forecastle and the upper Capstan Step, a Companion and a few Scuttles on the Quarterdeck.
 

 

 

 
  Danny

...

I’ve glued the masts and started to fit the shrouds.
 
For large and more detail photos see also:
http://www.flickr.co...han_gokcay/sets
http://www.flickr.co...57626433922489/

Hello dear friends ,
Thank you very much for your kind word, congratulations and comments. That is really an honour for me and i appreciate your attention a lot.
 
 
All sculptures and decoration are made by my own. I wrote about it in this thread, you can also find a lot of pics and videos, how i made them.

I know about the Mantua or Panart kits of Royal Caroline ( I have also seen another kit from China in a scale 1/30), but for me they are too expensive and have a low level of reality, so I have decided to make a scratch build.
 
 
 
Oh, thank you dear friend, what a beautiful bouquet of flowers.
 
 
I am sorry I was not here for a longer time. During summer i rarely have free time for making models, but in autum and winter it will be better.
These days my husband and me are remaking the room, where are displayed all my models. There were also added new shelves for other ships.

HMS Royal William in 1719
 
Historical Background
 
 
The HMS Royal William in 1719 was the second ship of that name. The first HMS ROYAL WILLIAM was built in 1692 out of the 1670 HMS PRINCE forth. Rebuilt in this the extent of HMS PRINCE were retained, only the appearance has been significantly modernized. It was in honor of King William III. renamed HMS PRINCE in HMS ROYAL WILLIAM. The HMS ROYAL WILLIAM in 1692 was subjected to this Rebuilt in Chatham by shipwright Robert Lee.
William III. reigned from 1689 to 1702. He comes from the house of Oranien Nassau.
To make in England, he came through the „Glorious Revolution" 1688/89, at the Stuart King James II was deposed. William III. was married to Mary II Stuart. Mary II Stuart died on December 28, 1694th . After the death of William III. by Maria's sister, Anne Stuart power. Quenn Anne was the last British queen tables from the House of Stuart.
Anne reigned from 1702 to 1714. The English Parliament cleared the way for George I from the House of Hanover with the „Act of Settlement“. George I ruled Great Britain from 1714 to 1727. In the reign of George I., the second much Rebuilt HMS ROYAL WILLIAM. In 1719, she was subjected to this Rebuilt in Portsmouth by ship builder John Naish. You still kept the name HMS ROYAL WILLIAM. Rebuilt in 1756 during her next she was from a first rate to a seconde rate of 84 cannon built back. She was one of the ships of the Royal Navy with the longest period of service and was scrapped in 1813. Of the HMS ROYAL WILLIAM, there are three models in the NMM in London and one in Annapolis from the Rogers Collektion. Although the HMS ROYAL WILLIAM is one of the best documented ships of the Royal Navy, so there are very large differences in the models. In this I'll talk more about in the course of my building report.
 
My ROYAL WILLIAM is based on the plans of Euromodel. The keel and the frames are made of poplar plywood and the hull was built of pinewood. After a little bit of boxwood and pear only came to use. Now some pictures, I will soon, when I have more time, to write much more.
 
Regards Kay
 
I hope you understand my bad english, I will learn it here in the forum definitely better.

Thank you very much my friends.
 
Here is continuation:
Bracera is on temporary stand





 
Beginning of construction:

I’ve finished the anchors. They are made from copper rod, bend and shaped with files. I’ve silver soldered the
parts and blackened with “BrassBlack” Unfortunately this time I missed to take pictures of every stage. Hoops
are brass strips first bend to shape then blackened and glued with CA.
 
For large and more detail photos see also:
http://www.flickr.co...han_gokcay/sets
http://www.flickr.co...57626433922489/

Continuation:
 
Well i work a little and here is result how Bracera look now (black color and flax oil are aplied)
 

Nice design Sinan. The french cleat would be the perfect way to hang the unit.
Have you thought of making the work surface cantilevered to the back, which would negate interference from the legs? With the right bracket you could also lock it in place when on a tabletop.

This is a portable bench that I design on Google Sketch up. I want to build it in the near future because I don't own a workshop and I'm working on a balcony or inside according to the weather.
I'm planing to build it from 2 by 4 cm  and 12 by 1,5 cm boards or any cheaper material.
The whole bench is portable as You can see on the pictures, is closes by a piano hinge and can be mounted on a wall with a french cleat and a pull up legs, or can stand on a table top without the legs.
Any suggestions, comments or questions are welcome.
And there are the dimensions on the pictures in mm.