Krelis

Thank you Patrick, it's nice to hear praise from a man who is master of miniatures.
Thank you Mike...   always look easy if you work for pleasure  (& when others are doing   .)
Pasara do that little "pause" of Pen Duick, it worked, now I can not wait to continue my work.
Today, little progress but it has ... I would have more but I have go to work tonight ..
Here are some photos:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 


 
 
Regards, Matija.
 

Thank you Bob and Patrick, I'm glad to like you 
 
Now, I put the ribs and painted Pasara with base color:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Regards, matija.

A big thank you Bob, Mike, Matand for nice words and all who visited my log and likes.
Now I'm scared because I believe you have a high expectations of my work.
I did not go according to plan ... but best to you  see photos:
 

 

 

 

 

 
2k car Putty ... ribs do not currently exist and needs something to be harden
 

 

 
Heating to warm the wax order to mold removed from the hull
 

 

 

 
The interior looks really bad but it does not matter because it is filled with 2k putty 
 
 

 

 

 
Templates 
 

 
It is not an accident that I smoothed the outside of the hull.
Pasara made a very clean and smooth with no visible cracks:
 

 

 
Regards, Matija.

last plank "hung". Will sand and treat the hull once the entire casco is finished. Modifications from the original out of the box model are the "buttock" behind instead of a flat stern (a modification I would not recommend), the false keel and stems, and the heightened bullwarks.

In 2010 I started a blog on this first build. The blog continued for perhaps 6 months when model ended up behind cupboard doors next to the Christmas tree decorations and a pile of books on boat building and rigging. Last week the hull found its way back to the building board  for final stage of planking. .
After three years of abstinence I had to get it all back in my fingers again; wood bending and cutting, doing all the checks before application of glue, getting it right
 
My old MSW account and blog are gone, but I still got the pictures:

Purchased by my dad somewhere in the eighties

The instruction drawing, the big white area pretty much sums up the Corel planking instructions; must have left my dad with a huge question mark above his head and perhaps explains why it took a next generation to muster the courage to add glue to the various components  - with inspiration derived from internet, especially MSW.

I suppose Corel must have taken note of the work of Frederick af Chapman.
 
Fredrik Henrik af Chapman http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fredrik_Henrik_af_Chapman

the Ketch, no. 3 in Chapmans' Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, published in 1768. The book contained 62 illustrations of ships and smaller vessels, both Swedish and foreign designs. Some of these were Chapman's own designs, but many were also types that he had seen during visits to foreign countries. Everything from large warships to small fishing vessels were represented (Source: wikipedia).
 

Set up of frames

Solid Surinam hardwood handle keeping everything in check
[
Many planking instructions suggest you should divide the space over the frames evenly according to the number of planks and then taper and hang the planks accordingly,thats what I did with the first layer of planking. Its wrong. With 5 mm planks the planks decide how they run, they are too narrow to allow for spiling, only with wide enough planks (planks which allow for spiling) the planker may devide the space according to his will

looks like its made of match sticks
But add filler and sand it all down, and youre ok..

with first layer, that is

addition of false stems and keel (not included in kit), made from oak

Problem: the instructed planking scheme for the second layer does not match the dimensions of the first layer as defined by the frames, I therefore find it necessary to heighten the bull warks therewith altering the the side profile / the run of the gunwale.

And commence planking of second layer,
I then find this picture on the internet...

A revelation: planks do not necessary end at the bow but may turn upward and form "saddlebags" underneath the whales.

Saddlebag

After completion of the saddlebags (the segments which require dropplanks) I commenced at the keel with the lower concave sections (the sections which require stealers).
.
I let the first planks envelop the stem

The two sections meet at the one plank which connects straight and free from bow to stern
 

Another important find is that all you need for woodbending is a glass of water and a candle
 

Stick the end of the wood in the glass, and let it soak until its wet about 3 cm above the water, then you know its soaked enough...then hold it above the candle and bend it, you will feel the wood give in. Dont overbend it, you cant bend it back. If the wood burns easily it probably means you did not soak long enough. If the wood dries up on the outside while heating use a brush to keep the wood wet on the outside of the bend.
 
Do not only bend the wood but give it the right twist at the same time..

to ensure stress free gluing...

for each and every plank..
 
 
[to be continued]

Jan,
You've got your work cut out for you. Will be following your progress

A friend of mine is a dentist and periodically he updates his equipment used in surgeries. I was fortunate enough to inherit one of his dental drill units. It is a brushless motor in the handset and has a quick change handpiece head for changing burs. I use both the belt driven drill and the new dental drill in my carving.
 
The Spectra Surge Dental Drill unit with handpiece.
 

 
The black stand with the grey cord on it is an LED light that turns on when the drill is operated and focuses a beam of light on the area it is aimed at.
 
 
More to follow......................
 
Bill

Good day folks,
 
Well, what can be said other than that it is so sad that all the beautiful input has been lost from this site. There were so many wonderful models and a wealth of information for all to share. Now is the time for us all to rebuild the site together.
 
Today I will just post a photo of the stern of the Sovereign as she sits today while I consider if it is possible to revive the log as it previously was.
 
 

 
 
More to folllow...........
 
Regards,
Bill

Hi friends:
 
Finally the time has arrived. After 15 months of spending many hours of fun with the construction of Vasa, yesterday I finished placing flags and banners and also the hand railings. Today, a little sadly, I have started to save and organize tools and materials as well as the workbench.
 
I decided that before starting with the new project, the "Pride of Baltimore", I have to design and make a display cabinet for the exhibition of some of the models, since I have no place in the house to place another ship individually.
 
Here some pictures of my finished model.
 

 
 
 
Some having as backround the bay where I lived:
 

 
Some details:
 

 
And some simulating that it is a "real"  ship on the Miramar Bay at Guaymas:
 

 
Saludos and see you in my next project.
 
PS: I want the opportunity to thank all the people that follow my log and specially to my Vasa mates for they encouragement and help.  Also for all the likes I received throughout my work.
 
 

I was able to get a little break from driving today and was able to stay home. I had a couple of hours in the shop and worked on the spark plugs a little more.
 
A few more bodies were turned up out of brass. the small diameter stub represents the plug body and will be filed to a hex section the larger diameter of the rest will represent the circular plate that is on top of the head covering the oval plate as in this picture
 

 

 

 

 
Next I cut a strip 1/8th by 1/8th off the side of a scrap of Corian that I used as a cutting board in the kitchen using the tablesaw.
 

 

 
Some time ago I made a special 4 jaw collet from a bolt in order to make square headed bolts out of 1/8th square stock
This came in handy for turning down the Corian to .078" diameter after drilling a .028" hole about 3/8" deep
 

 
I turned short sections 1/16 long down to the finish diameter and progressed toward the chuck, this helped to support the work. once the full length was turned I slipped the steel core rod into the Corian and then pressed the brass over the Corian, using the tailstock chuck to ensure a good alignment.
 

 
and a shot with the finger for scale
 

 
The electrode was tested with a piezoelectric crystal to see how the spark would work and it worked fine I will need to add a steel in for the ground so that the spark jumps from steel to steel and not steel to brass.
 

 
I will do some more experiments on the fabrication next week if I get time.
 
It was a good stress reliever today to focus on the model and take my mind of other things.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 

Jan wrote:
 
has nothing to do with actual "real world" planking techniques. In the real world there are no planks wide enough to allow for the amount of spiling required in his method.
 
Of course, Chucks models look absolutely great, but in my eyes more than perfect, where at least my - beginners - strife is for real world authenticity, I mean, whats the point of making everything above the waterline look absolutely real up to the smallest detail, while the other half the ship (the under water section) is a fiction?
 
 
Jan...Not fiction at all.     
 
But I know folks say that steelers and drop planks are just fine and were used historically.   That is true....but the huge number of them you see on model ships and explained as the proper way to do it in many books and instruction manuals and practicums.   Its just a crutch.    So whatever the method.....a hull that looks like this is not something I find attractive or even historically accurate.  So I prefer to go for fewer and replicate the way its done on a similar contemporary model or shown in a contemporary draft from the same era.  Its just my preference.  
 
I have no intention on picking on the fellow who planked this hull below.   But its extreme steelers gone wild and if this is the way he (or you) wants to go its OK.  But I find many people using them and only because they find an example where one or two were used historically, and  it is just a short rationalization further to go ahead and use  5 or six  or even more at the bow and as many at the stern.  I disagree entirely.  Its just an easy fix and a crutch.    I just dont think its accurate or aesthetically pleasing.  This is in terms of what we were discussing earlier.  I will say this.   To plank the hull like this fellow did would probably take longer and be more frustrating than it would to just give lining out a hull a chance.  Cutting all of those weird shapes randomly etc.
 

 
One drop plank at the bow at most...and no stealers at the stern.   That is what I will always shoot for.    I think its more accurate and looks better.  Not that you wouldnt be able to scour the web for an example or two that is contrary to my opinion.   I just think its an excuse to continue to use them willy nilly and in huge numbers rather than learn how to spile and plan a hull's planking.   Again,  just my opinion.  And its Ok.   If folks are happy with that, fine,  But I just dont buy the argument that this image above is accurate in any way...even if you could find one example that might look a bit like it.
 
I would rather not get into a lengthy debate about it either because its one of those circular debates.  Its just a matter of choosing what you are willing to live with on your project...without trying to force the idea that it must be accurate because one image exists showing something maybe a little similar so...... Then they feel better about using them and wont bother trying to figure it out beyond that.   I have had countless discussions on the matter actually.  Its more complex than this because it depends on the country of origin,  the year,  the shape of the bow and hull etc.   There is no one size fits all, what kind of ship.........  An apple bowed whaler will certainly be planked differently than a sharper cutter or frigate built 75 years earlier and from different countries.   Dutch practice vs. English practice.  There is just too much to consider for a simple answer..
 
But I am so lucky because I have this below.   Its the planking expansion...just a portion of it so I dont violate any copyright rules...and its for the Cheerful.  So I am very comfortable saying its reasonably accurate and the actual ship was closely replicated.    Its not fiction at all.  The draft shows exactly 20 strakes below the wales.   One drop plank only,  no steelers.  I have no idea how they would have done this in actual practice but there are plenty modeling techniques that can achieve this result.   That is if its something you would have fun learning how to do.
 

This will mark the beginning of my project to build the prototype for the Cutter Cheerful.  The plans are completed and I am getting ready to release the plans in a few months.  I will be building her out of Boxwood or possibly even Pau marfin.  I havent decided.  This project is a POB build as you can see from the details in the plans posted below.  Its not a very cumbersome project with just a cutter rig to deal with.  She is carvel planked and not Clinker planked.  This is one of the reasons why I chose it as a subject.
 
Once I have the skeleton built and the hull planked,  the plans will be released. The remainder of the project is pretty straight forward and doesnt need much of an explanation.  I just need to prove out the design concepts for the hull skeleton.  It shouldnt take too long.  I will be writing a monograph as I build her and posting it on my website for free download as well as here on MSW should folks want to read it.  But as I stated,  I wont need to finish the entire project to release the plans as they are really straight forward.  At a 1/4" scale...the hull will be 28 inches long and 26" tall.  A nice size yet built at a larger scale to show some great details.  
 
I am finally at a point with the Syren store where my inventory is quite full and I will be able to enjoy working on both the Winnie and the Cheerful for several hours each day.  I just cant wait to get started.  Having a laser cutter doesnt hurt either.  It will save me much time.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

All the woodwork on the wheelhouse is done now and i guess it will look great after some varnish. I also made a mast. It took a lot of time to find out all the dimensions and how all the rigging was. This week I got some new photo's wich are very helpfull to me.

According to at least some legalization of pot worked out well for the state of Colorado http://www.huffingtonpost.com/art-way/colorado-and-marijuana-le_b_6397664.html...sorryto see your blog suspended, like your work, should go for a country with proper tenant protection, e.g. Netherlands, but there you again have this marijuana issue ;-)

According to at least some legalization of pot worked out well for the state of Colorado http://www.huffingtonpost.com/art-way/colorado-and-marijuana-le_b_6397664.html...sorryto see your blog suspended, like your work, should go for a country with proper tenant protection, e.g. Netherlands, but there you again have this marijuana issue ;-)

Hi everyone
 
As promised, here are the photos of Lennox's rigging. I'm pretty confident that I made more than just a few mistakes in the rigging. Nevertheless, at least I tried to make the rigging look as realistic as possible. In fact, if you were to look at it from far away, (let's say, a few metres away(!)) LOL, it actually looks passable. It's only when you look close up, that the purists would shudder....oh well, I did warn you!
 
The next build log will be the final log, featuring the ship on its display stand.
 
All the best!

A few more....

Hi everyone. Some more photos.

Here is short video guide how to make it like this

 
 
(click CC to turn on subtitles)

I am sorry to do it this way, but there is an excellent video by ??? about making metal screw or bolt heads and I lost it.
 
However, for those who rather buy than make, here is a source for those little guys. The 'rivets' come in a cluster of molded plastic and was designed for the model train hobbyists. The smallest rivet has a head of 0.020 inches diameter with a shaft of 0.015 inches. For a model at 1:76 that equates to a shaft of just over an inch in diameter.
https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_nbw--rivets/p/8017/SearchValue/rivets/Default.aspx
 
I, and others here, have used the next size up for the 'rivets' in the bulwark of the USS Constitution. Here is what those look like.

 
BTW I am sure most of you know that on the US penny Lincoln can actually be seen sitting in his memorial.

Here are two before and after shots of the bow of a model I restored using the Golden brand MSA varnish. naturally I CLEANED the model and removed a lot of built up nastiness. As you can see the varnish really brings out a lot of color, color I am sure was once there on the original model.
Hats off to your grandfather and his life at sea, this makes the model all the more attractive and worthwhile in my opinion.

Here are some photos.  The first is a schooner my not so bright cousin had rerigged with new blocks deadeyes etc.  Then painted like brand new.  Not the way my Grandfather built it.  Look at the rest and see what I mean.  This is exactly what I don't want todo with the rest.
 
The first and forth photos are the Ship and Bark that will come down the road with the other 2 in storage.  I can't get the photos in the order I would like them.
 
The middle photos  are what I'm starting on.  I chose this one because it is bigger, and has more room for blunt fingers to find there way in there.  You can see what I mean about splotchy decks, etc.Any suggestions will be thankfully received.

I've had quite a bit of extra time at the museum of late, filling in for one of the model makers who has a few health issues.  As a result I've managed to get quite a bit of work done on the 'Pritt'.
 
The treenailing of the hull is now complete and the low kick rail has been fitted and treenailed.
 
The photos show the hull treenailed and rough sanded.
 
The next steps will be to finish sanding the hull; thin down the kick rail stiffeners to a more scale like dimension and then fit the rubbing strake.  After that I'll give the hull a coat of finish to protect it and then get on with the capping rail and the deck.
 
In the fourth photo below you'll see that the stern is quite open above the deck.  This was quite usual for the T.I. pearlers - the capping rail is supported on three knees across the stern.  This configuration allowed for very quick and easy cleaning of the deck after sorting and cleaning pearl shell by simply hosing and sweeping all the rubbish over the stern.
 
John
 

 

 

 

I built a tool to make the molding to the dolphins:

 

 
 
 
and after a long, patient and very delicate manual work, here is the result:

 

 

 

Thanks for all the likes and comments.  The windlass is finished.  Only one goof.  Can you spot it?   The holes for the handles on the two outer pieces are out of alignment with those on the center piece.  When you assemble each barrel, it would be good to start each one with either the solid or holed face lined up with a square side of the axle and keep it constant.  Since the two outer pieces are the same, I don't think I have to take it apart.  Warning...some of the pieces are VERY SMALL.  It's a great addition to the Cutter Cheerful plans.
Maury