Jump to content

KeithAug

Members
  • Posts

    3,845
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by KeithAug

  1. Mark / John - thank you for your comments. Also thank you to all who have hit the like button. John - I have a dilemma about leaving the draw open as in its open position it makes the flag locker even harder to see. Maybe I will have to move it on an annual basis. I am toying with making a parallel rule, dividers and a hand bearing compass but this may be a step too far. First I think i will have a go at the seat coverings.
  2. The upper steps in the deckhouse are now complete and the first finishing coats of poly applied. As I think I previously said the chart table sits above the flag locker. I got a bit carried away with making it. The charts cover the Western Isles from the Butt of Lewis to the Mull of Kintyre. The books are old friends - "The Yachtsman's Pilot to the West Coast of Scotland" and "Reeds Nautical Almanac".
  3. Hello Michael It looks like a wonderful diversion to while away the cold dark Alberta winter months. Best wishes for a successful build.
  4. I thought the flag locker looked very bare...... So I got some flags from the net and filled the locker........ As you can see I also built up the sides of the seats. Cushions to follow. Very little of the flag locker will be visible once the chart table is fitted over it. But I know it is there!!!!!!!
  5. Thank you Bob and everyone else who has paid a visit.
  6. Above the transverse corridor sits the flag locker. It consists of a number of pigeon holes into which the flags are posted for storage. I made the pitch of the holes .200 inch with .040 walls - hole size .160 x.160 inch or 5.12 x 5.12 inch at full size. Cross slots were cut in a piece of mahogany at .200 inch pitch before .040 inch slices were milled off. Assembly was easy, but care was necessary to avoid damaging fragile parts.
  7. Thank you John Between redecorating duties I managed to make a bit more progress. The deckhouse is quite open and I thought I needed to attempt some internal detail - to be viewed through the windows, open doors and deck house roof hatch. Before I start a few photos of the original. I started by blocking out the basic shapes. Then I covered the visible surfaces in mahogany and cut out and attached the sides of the steps and the handrails. At the bottom of the steps is a transverse corridor. Its virtually impossible to see from outside the deckhouse but I thought I had better represent it.
  8. Thank you Michael. I'd like to be spending more time on the build but my daughter is demanding my decorating skills.
  9. Hello Francis The deck planking - particularly the caulking is a little tedious. It's quite important to get the right black card. You want card that isnt too friable, I used Clairfontaine Trophee A4 card from Amazon. I used PVA glue and put a thin bead on the deck alongside the previously laid plank - smoothing it out with my finger. I was trying to get a very light film of glue. Having applied the glue I then placed the next plank on the deck near the previous plank and used tweezers to place the 1mm wide card strip between the planks - working from one end I progressively pressed the planks together nipping the card between the planks. The plank being laid was held in place by pins as I had done on the hull planks. I wiped off the glue squeezed out between the planks as I went along. I hope that makes sense but come back to me if it does not. I did my current build "Altair" in the same way and you may find the detail on this build helpful. In a number of the pictures you can see progress and the pins holding the most recently applied plank in place. - Pages 3 and 4 are the most relevant.
  10. Julie / Mark Thank you for your kind comments.
  11. Scuppers--------- The penetrations through the bulwalk have covers on Altair. I thought the covers would look bad if they weren't identical so I decided to cut them from brass channel. The correct angles were formed using a combination of the disc sander and mill - with the settings being maintained through the use of simple jigs. The uniformity was good and the test mounting looked fine. I also got round to putting the 1st coat of poly on inner surface of the bulwarks and capping rail.
  12. Hello David, I made the prop some time ago. You can find the details on page 5. Thank you Bob for you comments - and also thanks all of you who hit the "like" button.
  13. Progress is very slow. Much time away from home visiting family and holidays. At least the dog is getting a lot of walks and looking fit. I did get an hour or two to make the prop shaft rear bearing and hull outing plates, The test assembly looks ok but I'll postpone final installation until later in the build.
  14. Hi Nils. She is coming along very well. Loved the sanding drum, drill bit etc up-stands on the aft deckhouse. The vents are excellent.
  15. I came across the attached product for the first time earlier today. I can think of a number of uses that I could have put it to on previous builds. Its worth watching the video. http://www.albionhobbies.com/connecto/ I wondered how many other products are out there that a lot of us are unfamiliar with????? Another useful link. http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Abion-Alloys---Precision-Metals.html
  16. Hi Kees A good clear out and tidy up always makes me feel better - almost like a new begining. I hope it makes you feel the same. I hope you start feeling much better soon - your skills are missed.
  17. Hi Guys You might want to look here also http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10830-how-would-you-improve-your-byrnes-tools/?p=327942
  18. Thanks Bob, I'm pleased you found it and hope you enjoy.
  19. Altair has 7 portholes just above the waterline, 3 port and four starboard. I had a play with 2 designs. In option 1 the window is glued into a recess cut in the front of the porthole. The porthole is cut from solid brass rod of .325 inch diameter. The window is cut from stiff clear plastic using a standard paper hole punch. Option 1 has the advantage that the resulting porthole seems less "heavy" at the rim. The disadvantage is that its hard to disguise the glue and any unevenness in cutting the edge of the window (made from plastic) is also apparent. The result can look a little messy. In option 2 the window is inserted into the rear of the porthole and held in place by a tube which is also pressed in from the rear. The advantage is no glue and no rough edges - but at the expense of a heavier rim. I made both types before choosing option 2 (on the left in the picture below). For me the neatness outweighed the heaviness. The components below are pre-assembly. The tube was pressed in and then sawn off. The portholes took about 10 minutes each to make - but as the picture shows they need a little cleaning up. I'm off on my travels now so no more progress for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...