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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Keith / Andy - you both offer such good advice - even when your advice is diametrically opposed🙁 Andy - I was planning to use a manual jewellers saw. I don't trust myself to be as accurate as I need to be with a scroll saw. Thank you John - is that my Whitby or is it your Whitby (Perth). If it's mine I can't remember seeing it when I was last in the museum (One wet day around about 1964 😬). Thank you Gary.
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Zero Clearance for Table Saws
KeithAug replied to DelF's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Derek. Sorry I wasn't clear. I meant the fence on the right hand side - the one with the Allen key on it.- 12 replies
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- Zero clearance
- table saw
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I am continuing to make a bit of progress as a side line to the dolls house. After another coat of varnish I had a bit of a diversion on to the port holes. The frames were turned on the lathe. 28 in total. They are quite simple with a constant outside diameter of 9mm and a step on the internal diameter of 0.5mm (7mm diameter hole). The bore takes a window of 8mm diameter. I manufactured a punch to form the 8mm windows. The windows were punched out of acetate sheet. In the photo the widows still have their protective films on both faces. Then a couple of more coats of varnish, finished with quite coarse wire wool between each application to remove any fibres. The varnish is polyurethane thinned 1 to 1 with white spirits and wiped on with a lint free rag. I decided I had been avoiding the gingerbread toooooo long so I fasted 2 pieces of 1/64" brass strip together with double sided tape and glued the cutting template in place. I have ordered a packet of 6/0 saw blades (76 tpi). These should arrive tomorrow. These blades should just about work when cutting double thickness 1/64" sheets. I suppose I should have gone for 8/0 blades (89 tip) but I think the sawing would have taken forever. I am going to have to cut the gingerbread in several pieces as it is circa 7 inches long and the throat of my jewellers saw is only 3 inches.
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Cap San Diego by mikegr - 1/160
KeithAug replied to mikegr's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1901 - Present Day
I can't imagine that the crane hook was left to dangle when underway. Another option would be to secure the hook to the deck and then tension the cables. Everything looks very good. -
Harbor Freight 16" variable speed scroll saw
KeithAug replied to Dr PR's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Try typing the following into your web search:- "Pegas - Scroll saw blade selection chart". When I am cutting very thin plywood (0.62" or less) I find jewellers saw blades are far less likely to catch. They are however much more fragile than standard scroll saw blades and need to be treated gently. -
Phil Thanks for the detail on your planking trials, tribulations and successes. I'm sure that a lot of us are greatful of the learning points. I was interested in the photos of the present day vessel. The picture of the planks at the bow shows rather short lengths running at a different angle to the main hull planks. What is the reason for this odd arrangement. is this something that was done to effect a repair later in life?
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- minesweeper
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Andy - good catch - I have seen many less successful correction attempts. I do think that it is good of the shipwrights to build a full scale boat for you to copy. Oh there's sober men & plenty And drunkards barely twenty There are men of over ninety That have never yet kissed a girl But give me a rambling rover Fae Orkney down to Dover We will roam the country over And together we'll face the world
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Harbor Freight 16" variable speed scroll saw
KeithAug replied to Dr PR's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
My guess is you need a different blade. If the sheet is thin (1/32" - 1/16") then its thickness is less that the pitch of the cutting teeth of the blade you are using. The material you are cutting also has an impact on blade choice. This gives a pretty good guide on choosing the right blade for the thickness and material you are cutting.
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