KeithAug

A little more progress. At the front of the stabilisers are a couple of metal fillets - presumably to deflect debris from the gap between the stabiliser and the hull. I'm not sure why the holes in the stabilisers are for and I have omitted them in error. I'll need to go back and insert these. I cut the fillets from brass and included a web for mounting. Cutting the slot in the hull was another stressful operation - I marked the slot position with card. Before cutting the slot with an x-acto keyhole saw. I took my time to avoid damaging the hull varnish. The stabilisers and fillets were then Temporarily installed to test the fit. Then it was on to preparing for the paint job. Starting with the waterline stripe. I was having difficulty getting the waterline to sit at the correct height at bow and stern using the laser level. After some head scratching I realised that the bench wasn't perfectly horizontal. This of course wouldn't have been a problem if I had been marking the waterline with the traditional scribing block and pencil method. To sort the problem out I had to shim the base board at the bow. I also had to place a spirit level on the bench (as a track for the laser level), also shimmed to be horizontal. (See arrows). Having sorted the levelling problem I went on to mark the waterline by laying the masking tape directly to the laser line. After changing the height of laser I went on to mask the upper edge of the waterline. Of course I then had to turn the hull round and re-level before taping the other side. I didn't get any further with masking because I got the call for dinner. One must never delay when called by "she who must be obeyed" or the dinner will be in the dog.

I think they are going on Jerome. I'll just have to live with my discomfort.

Absolutely beautiful work.

I like the lino, obviously recycled from the wife's boudoir (from the French verb bouder, which I think means to sulk).

Ole Bob would find it acceptable.

Not very expensive then. Keith - You could always try a bit of tin basing and solder. You would only need basic hand tools. 🙂🙂🙂

Another interesting vessel Ras. I look forward to seeing how she develops.

I am always amazed how far Cornwall Model Boats business extends. Nearly as famous as Wall Drug. Always a tricky and stressful job Bruce, but you executed it well.

I presume the flower arrangement was standard naval issue Phil?🙂

Not bad progress seeing as the log was only started 3 days ago!!!! I assume you started the build before you started the log Valeriy.

She is coming along very nicely.

Phil - Yes

Yes Steve - her bottom isn't very flat and I guess this would have had a negative impact on righting moment.

Quite an exposed helmsman position. I hope his hat is tied on.

Craig / Valeriy and all other visitors to my build - thank you for your contributions.

Yves, I feel compelled to resit my desire to exclude them. I am hoping that finishing them in mahogany to match the lower hull will cause them to fade into the background. 🤞 As for breakages.😬

Rick - that was always going to be the plan but as time goes by I am refining it. Indecision is the sincerest form of procrastination.

Another good way to avoid the problem Keith.

Great "I can't make my mind up" option Stephen.🙂

Very novel approach to hull building. I like it.

Should be an interesting turning project Keith and I could always make you one if need be.

Yes John - I know the logic. Am I the only one that thinks they look incongruous on a 1901 shaped hull?

All votes will be counted Veszett. I think you may be on to something there Yves. Not wanting to jump to a snap decision on paint finish I diverted to another controversial area. I refer to the stabilisers. Clearly they were not a feature of the 1901 build and were presumably included in the 2007 rebuild to make her more comfortable for the more delicate sailors of the 21st Century. I personally think Cangarda looks quite odd with the stabilisers fitted but unfortunately I can't bring myself to omit them (departing markedly from her rebuilt form). Courtesy of Rick I have some rather good shots of the stabilisers and these plus a bit of educated scaling allowed me to do a reasonably good job of getting their size and shape correct. As with the rudder, I am making them from a brass core clad with mahogany. The next shot shows the dimensions and the already cut brass plates (1/16" thick). The 2 plates are held together with double sided tape at this stage. The plates were then cut to shape and a 1/8" slot was milled out for the shank. The 2 plates were then separated and the shanks were cut from 1/8" brass rod. The shank needed to be soldered central to the plate, so for soldering stage the plate was supported on 2 off 1/32 twist bits (as per the next photo). The solder was then cleaned up. Mahogany planks were then glued to the brass - note the slot in the mahogany to take the shank. Once the mahogany was secure I used my patent bulldog clip method to control sanding of the aft end taper. The front end needed a slightly different approach because of the trapezoidal shape. In this instance I temporarily attached a sacrificial strip with double sided tape. The two stabilisers were thus completed. I now plan to move on to sorting out the hull paint scheme.

There does not seem to be any chimney - a steam pipe or two would seem to be the obvious solution - probably using exhaust steam.

The stern wheel looks excellent Keith.