KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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I recommend Macallan Double Cask 15 year old. My son is in Malmo on Thursday and Friday - giving a medical lecture. Has the weather warmed up yet? -
That is going to be quite a baptism of fire Ian. Do you have a lot of clamps? As you progress the planks need to align with the previous plank along their length. With a wide frame spacing you may find that the planks don't want to align with the previous plank particularly at the half way point between frames. You will probably need to clamp the adjacent planks together at mid span while the glue is drying. 3mm is quite thick for planks and they are going to take some restraining - presumably this is what the designer had in mind when he / she suggested balsa as the planking material. You may find other MSW members have more experience of large frame spacing with thick planks. They may be more able to comment and advise. Ultimately we all find a way in the end.
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Ian - did you say what the spacing is. It looks quite large.
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Nils there are loads on eBay - this is the cheap end of the range - I suspect the more you pay the better they are.
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I agree - two needed.
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Excellent progress Richard. The hull lines look wonderful.
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Some very nice hand crafted brass work - well done.
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You have missed your vocation mate..........................you should have been a plumber or real estate agent or a hairdresser. Anything but a song writer! Beautiful work Keith.
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I find the older I get, the slower I work. I sometimes worry that if I slow down much more one day everything will just stop. Meteor is turning out real handsome John.
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That seems like a sensible approach. As for myself I plank with hardwood cut from very old furniture. I don't experience problems with shrinkage but the wood can be quite brittle and will break if the curvature is too great.
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Thank you Rick - as co author you will need to be chairman of the judges panel. Or should that be chairperson - you can never be sure in this PC age! Thank you John and Andy.
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As I said in another post earlier today the workshop heated up to a sweat inducing 10c this week, so I made the most of it and did some shipyard work. To be honest if the workshop drops below 10c the PVA glue takes an absolute age to set and even then the bond strength seems weak. At least that is my excuse for slow progress. Anyway it was time to start glueing the frames into the building board. In the following sequence of shots you can see how I am using various blocks to get the frames vertical. I am also using the rods to ensure the alignment of the frames both top and bottom. As I am progressing along the hull I am installing horizontal bracing frames. Where I want to retain the option for doing some below deck detail the bracing is put in at the below deck floor level. Where the below deck won't be visible I am putting the bracing in where it maximises rigidity. As I progress I slide the alignment rods progressively rearward. After a while I got this far.
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Ian - good tip thank you.
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Very nicely done.
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After all, she is your baby.🙂
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Same here Andy - the workshop broke the 10c barrier this week. That looks like a hell of a lot of scrolling - plenty of opportunity for eye strain. I am look forward to seeing how it all goes.
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George - Roger is correct. Scroll saw blades don't usually break a lot. you should have a look at your set up. George - Allan is also wise. I think it would make life easier for you if you put in more frames, particularly at the bow and stern. Filler blocks are also a good option.
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Ian - as the planks are being covered up then let the hull tell you the answer. In general wider planks can be used on flat sections and narrower on more extreme curvatures. My advice would be make a start on planking and after a few planks decide if its going well and then adjust the width up or down as you see fit.
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Yes Ian - My advice would be to cut right through where you have scored the line leaving only about a half inch at either end of the line to maintain the attachment to the up-stand. When you come to cut the hull from the base board cut it off some where near your letter B. Then remove the remainder of the up-stand by cutting through the "half inch" attachment areas. Have a look at posing 212 on my Cangarda build for further detail / options.
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Valeriy - very net. The more usual term for the chimney is either a funnel or a smoke stack, but who am I to comment as I don't speak a single word of Ukrainian.
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