UpstateNY

The carriages on the contemporary model in the Rogers collection is very similar except for the super tiny trucks.   I pretty much used the plan I showed which is a really good fit and more traditional.  But there are many many variations.  I would love to see someone have a go at the more wacky concepts used on revenue cutters.  There are plenty.
 

Thank you very much
 
I decided to make one carronade with all of the details.  This way I could find out what is in store for me.  Now I can more comfortably finish up the remaining 11 guns.
 
I will describe how with a step-by-step once I get started.  But for now..here is what the completed gun looks like.  I also finished making the belaying pins.  They were made from boxwood.  I dislike the brass belaying pins available because they are just the wrong proportions.  With only about 16 pins needed I decided to make my own.  If you are a heavy handed rigger....someone who likes to pull theit rigging lines super tight like a guitar string then you should probably stick to the brass.  Otherwise give this a try.
 
I just chucked up a thin boxwood strip in my dremel and went to work.  The same method was used to make the quoin handle for the carriages. Image is below.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Chuck
 
 

Here is how I fabricated the chain iron using a brass strip and making two identical parts and soldered together. They were just bent and formed with small pliers.



 
This shows it in place and I also added the chain eyebolts that I formed using black anodized copper wire twisted around a 1/32" drill bit shank.
 

 
Next will be the scuttles and portlights. I see already that I will have to make one since one was only partially filled in the casting process.

Congrats Jack on a great build....love those final outside shots! 
 
Very much enjoyed following along and looking forward to your next build!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Congrats Jack on a great build....love those final outside shots! 
 
Very much enjoyed following along and looking forward to your next build!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Congrats Jack on a great build....love those final outside shots! 
 
Very much enjoyed following along and looking forward to your next build!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Final Update:

While building the model, I decided to conduct a little research into the area from which these boats sailed and found that this area comprises the original six Celtic Nations (Note:The term "nation" is used in its original sense to mean a people who share a common identity and culture and are identified with a traditional territory. It is not synonymous with "sovereign state".). The six Celtic Nations are  Brittany (Breizh), Cornwall (Kernow), Wales (Cymru), Scotland (Alba), Ireland (Éire), and the Isle of Man (Mannin). Both Brittany and Ireland border onto the Celtic Sea.  

Since I am of Celtic ancestry, Ireland, I decided to take a little modeler's license and make the model an Ireland based fishing vessel. Looking deeper into the geography I located two major fishing ports in Ireland; Killybegs is the largest and Dunmore East (Irish: An Dún Mór Thoir) is the second largest.  Killybegs is located near Donegal Bay on the northwest side of the island and borders more on the Atlantic Ocean; so I decided to eliminate it as a possible port for my boat.  Dunmore East borders the Muir Cheilteach (Celtic Sea), has the second highest figure for fish landings after Killybegs, and is the world record holder for the largest tuna caught on a rod. For these reasons I decided to make Dunmore East the home harbour for my mythical boat.

New decals had to be created for the bow and stern. I decided to list Dunmore East in both English and Irish Gaelic on the stern.  A small Irish flag was fabricated from the toothpick flags one finds on St Patrick's Day cakes and cupcakes and my family Coat of Arms was added to the Jib to identify the vessel's ownership.

I want to thank Denis (Popeye the Sailor) for helping me locate the Decal Making software, decal paper, and Decal bonder chemical, and for giving me hints on how to use it.

I spent a lot of time learning how to create my own decals; after a lot of experimenting with some scrap sail cloth material I was finally able to get a process for applying decals directly to the sail. After applying the Coat of Arms decal to the Jib I completed the rigging of the sails, and proceeded to install and rigging the large outrigger fishing poles. Interpreting the rigging drawing was a bit of a challege but I finally figured it out.

For those wondering, I used the MicroScale brand of decal products, SET, SOL, Glossy, and Flat, to apply the decals; these are the same products I used to use to apply decals on my plastic models.

Below are the photos of the finished model, Marie Jeanne. To get the best lighting I decided to take the model outdoors and photograph her in full sunlight. A slight breeze helped add some volume to the sails and extend the flag.
 


 
I want to thank everyone who has been following my build, posting comments, or LIKEs - it's been a fun build.  Now  I need to decide on my next build. Will update my signature with a link to the next build log.
 

Thank you Mike.
 
Thank you Elijah and thank you for the "Likes" from so many friendly souls .  .  .  .
 
As noted by others, the pieces making up the hull were easily freed from their respective billets. I did a test dry fit and was pleased to see the precision of their fit. Snug, enough room for a thin application of glue but no significant slop.
 

  In my dry fit frame 4 and the aft deck each seem to fit correctly without modifications. Others reported necessary tweaking. With that knowledge I spent two days trying to decide if I was missing something I should be seeing but in the end could find no reason to make adjustments.           The forward frames were chamfered until a pleasant lay of a test plank was achieved.     The test dry fitting positioned the frames so perfectly that I opted to glue the central several frames in place by using the two decks above them to maintain what seems to be a perfect relationship. Unconventional I believe but doing so keeps the frames in perfect alignment with no wiggle room whatsoever. The decks were not glued, only the frames to the keel.     The glue is drying and the wine cellar is calling my name .  .  .  .   Respectfully, John Total Time 14 hours

Love the bow Dave and I especially like the last shot showing the full hull.  Just amazing to see all these carvings in place!
 
Good luck at the Doc's today!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Hi All,
 
Welcome Kevin and I really think you'll be very happy with this kit...she's a beauty! My thanks to all as well for the kind comments and the likes!
 
One of the really nice design features of this kit is that it can be built showing some exposed hull framing. First step is to build a shadow box from the laser cut pieces. Two of these have very fine spacers to set the framing separation.  A heads up to anyone with this kit is many of the spacers were not cut all the way through especially at the corners in my kit. It took quite some time to safely release them using my finest Xacto knife as the spacers are quite fragile. After sanding and gluing in place, the shadow box was  painted matt black.
 
The double frames were glued up making sure the tops matched up and then all the frames were glued into place. I used wood glue as this gave me time to try make sure the spaces were even and the frames vertical using my small square to guide my eye. Fairing to the bulkheads was done using my sanding sticks and 220 grit paper. I thought about staining the frames to match the keel, but there was quite a lot of grain visible so I decided against it. I am really glad I left well alone as the frames still took on a really nice, deeper color after a protective coat of poly. Seems when I select planks for hull and deck planking, I will need to really watch how the grain is running and perhaps pre-stain or add a light coat of poly to help match the finish.
 
One last thing is I decided to copy Ed Tosti's board design (link below to his fabulous Young America log)  and added T track's to my board. I can now hold the hull firmly using the simple clamps you can see in some pictures and they also let me square the hull to the board which should be helpful given next up is Chapter 3 and the stern framing!
 
Thanks for reading!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 
Link to Ed Tosti's Young America log.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3453-young-america-by-edt-extreme-clipper-1853/page-1
 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the nice compliments Carl, Elijah and John and to all for the likes! 
 
Stern framing has begun, but I will be taking this slow so I get all the angles and curves correct!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Love the bow Dave and I especially like the last shot showing the full hull.  Just amazing to see all these carvings in place!
 
Good luck at the Doc's today!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Love the bow Dave and I especially like the last shot showing the full hull.  Just amazing to see all these carvings in place!
 
Good luck at the Doc's today!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Love the bow Dave and I especially like the last shot showing the full hull.  Just amazing to see all these carvings in place!
 
Good luck at the Doc's today!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Love the bow Dave and I especially like the last shot showing the full hull.  Just amazing to see all these carvings in place!
 
Good luck at the Doc's today!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Love the bow Dave and I especially like the last shot showing the full hull.  Just amazing to see all these carvings in place!
 
Good luck at the Doc's today!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Thanks for the nice compliments Carl, Elijah and John and to all for the likes! 
 
Stern framing has begun, but I will be taking this slow so I get all the angles and curves correct!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Hmmmm
 

 

 

 

Hi All,
 
Welcome Kevin and I really think you'll be very happy with this kit...she's a beauty! My thanks to all as well for the kind comments and the likes!
 
One of the really nice design features of this kit is that it can be built showing some exposed hull framing. First step is to build a shadow box from the laser cut pieces. Two of these have very fine spacers to set the framing separation.  A heads up to anyone with this kit is many of the spacers were not cut all the way through especially at the corners in my kit. It took quite some time to safely release them using my finest Xacto knife as the spacers are quite fragile. After sanding and gluing in place, the shadow box was  painted matt black.
 
The double frames were glued up making sure the tops matched up and then all the frames were glued into place. I used wood glue as this gave me time to try make sure the spaces were even and the frames vertical using my small square to guide my eye. Fairing to the bulkheads was done using my sanding sticks and 220 grit paper. I thought about staining the frames to match the keel, but there was quite a lot of grain visible so I decided against it. I am really glad I left well alone as the frames still took on a really nice, deeper color after a protective coat of poly. Seems when I select planks for hull and deck planking, I will need to really watch how the grain is running and perhaps pre-stain or add a light coat of poly to help match the finish.
 
One last thing is I decided to copy Ed Tosti's board design (link below to his fabulous Young America log)  and added T track's to my board. I can now hold the hull firmly using the simple clamps you can see in some pictures and they also let me square the hull to the board which should be helpful given next up is Chapter 3 and the stern framing!
 
Thanks for reading!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 
Link to Ed Tosti's Young America log.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3453-young-america-by-edt-extreme-clipper-1853/page-1
 

 

 

 

 

 

Beak-head construction....
A number of new developments over the last three days.  Stained the deck and catwalks.... added the bulwark cowlings and trimmed out the inboard side.... added the railing caps.... and finally, added the outboard panel moldings.
 

 
Note....The two corner carvings above the cowlings were tricky as heck and had to be done over two or three times to get them acceptable.
 

 
So I finally got to see this beast with a fully formed beak-head.... ready for ornamentation.
 

Time for a progress photo. It shows a 'stand-in' footwaling piece positioned so that the first pre-painted board is correctly placed. The pre-painted strips, 10" wide and ⅝" thick are also shown in this photo.

I picked up a bottle of Vallejo Flat Red # 70957.  It's easier to get an even coat, without brush marks, than the Polly Scale paint I used on the longboat.  So, I'll use this red for the bulwarks color.  I got the gun ports painted. 
 

 

 

 
Erik

Orlop "bashed" and up to the lower gun-deck
 
A lot of work has gone into "bashing" the orlop deck furniture and fittings, including the port and starboard carpenters walk(s), cabins on both sides and a cabin forward completing the rooming arrangements. The sundry barrels, ropes and surgeons table additionally helped bulk out the detail, but there's more yet to come.
 
Not exactly like my McKay deck drawings, but inspired by them, and certainly more than the kit itself allowed for.
 
The lower gun-deck was fitted complete with some of its decking detail. But now I have another quandary; I will be putting further deck detail, but the primary items on this deck are of course the cannon. The manual seems to suggest completing all decks before positioning and fixing the guns, it occurs to me this will make rigging the guns and positioning them correctly very difficult. I'm going to have to study the manual closely, but I find it so difficult to read. I'll obviously have a look what other builders have done, but I seem to recall not many have got that far. Oh well, nil desperandum (just yet).
 

 

 

 
 
 

Happy Wednesday Everyone,
I have a brief update for today. I have finished all of the bow work. As I had mentioned earlier I needed to adjust the middle rail on each side. I not sure if their profiles are exactly correct, but at least they now fit the model. With the stern and bow both finished, I'm now about to start the copper plating.
David

Hello Again,
Over the past couple of weeks, I have been working on the stern and bow details. As many of you know the practicum suggests using Evergreen styrene for much of the details. While it's quite effective, it really isn't very much fun to work with. It's difficult to do without getting CA glue all over the place and it doesn't set up as quickly as I would like. Also, the "memory" in the strips causes them to not want to stay in place around curves. I found it helped to wrap the trip around a cylinder for a day or se before using it. One minor change I made from the practicum was the size of the stripe on the rails. For some reason it's suggested to use .040 half round on the cheek rails and then switch to .010 x .020 for the headrails. Once I added the smaller stuff to the headrails, I noticed how much better it looked than the hearvier on the cheek rails, so I redid it, using the smaller scale. I'm not sure if it's more authentic to use the two different sizes or not, but I'm sure happier with the smaller size throughout.
 
The headrails are interesting to make. Most of them were not actually too difficult, but that middle rail is of the devil's own design. It's a series of compound curves and the practicum suggests making it ahead of attaching any of the rails to the model. The problem with this is that you're flying blind. The timbers connect the top curved rail with the top cheek rail. The middle rail goes between and I believe it is supposed to make contact with the timbers. My middle rail, which looked quite good off the model, didn't even come close to reaching the three middle timbers. It didn't seem to curve far enough toward the centre throughout it's horizontal run. I didn't have the heart to start over, as these rails were the result of several failed attempts, so my solution was to modify them. I laminated planking material to the inside surface of the rails where they were to meet the three timbers, then I sanded them to the necessary contour. Once I was satisfied, I then sanded the outside surface down to create the right width throughout its length. This effectively reshaped the piece. For anyone else using the practicum, I would suggest installing the other rails and timbers first, and only then making the middle rail to fit.
 
On the gallery, I know my work here isn't especially beautiful, but it's the result of several failed attempts and if there's one thing I've learned it's to know my limitations and when to cut my loses, so this is what it's going to be. The nameplate looked like it was going to be a bit of a challenge. The laser cut plate provided required painting and I knew I'd never get a satisfactory job. The trailboard isn't so difficult as all the curving detail allows a fair bit of margin for error, but the lettering is another story altogether. The practicum suggests using dry transfer lettering. I ordered some, but it is very difficult to hold it in place correctly and to get a straight string of letters. Also, often despite rubbing the letter, only a portion of it actually comes off which leaves quite a mess. In the end I turned to Microsoft Word. I created the lettering in a Word document, approximating it as closely as I could. I cut it out, glued it to a piece of wood and then sealed it with polyurethane. It seems to work ok.
 
So that pretty much brings my build log up to date.
David