jbshan
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Everything posted by jbshan
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Yellow Ochre is about the same as brown mustard, not yellow cheese. Red Ochre is in the red brick range. Mind, both of these are ground natural pigments and depend entirely on the source. Go to an artists' supply shop and check out their colors. There may be color charts you can take with you. Joel Sanborn -
This just popped up on another thread: http://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/the-elements-and-practice-of-rigging-and-seamanship/ Hope it helps with the sailmaking part of your work. Do you at least have dimensions for the spars the sails have to fit onto? Otherwise you're going to have to do a lot of research to figure it all out. Joel Sanborn
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That should work. Your model is pretty short, so it may not be a problem, but you might want to think about a couple of pieces of wood in the vice to extend the clamping surface so the keel is supported for a longer distance. A bolt either end of the wood, and a slot in the top a smidge smaller than the keel would be nice and stable. You've already spent the money, but Amati makes a keel clamper with swivel base that works very well for me. Just checked, it's $87.95 here, so that's close to your £50. Is this the one? Joel Sanborn
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Looks like you got the straight dope. Don't forget that knees, standards etc. also might show their fastenings on the outside of the plank.
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double planking a hull
jbshan replied to pugman11's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The pic is my second hull, single plank. This is Lexington, from the Lumberyard's timbering set, to go with the series in Ships in Scale. The bulkheads are fairly close together. The dark strakes are ebony, the port strakes are swiss pear, below the wale is boxwood. There was a little plank separation because of humidity issues, it looks better now that time and matte varnish have had a chance to work. You have to be patient, there are books you can get to give you some step-by-step. Joel Sanborn
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Cross-section by russ - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
jbshan replied to russ's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Russ, I'd never seen this before, really nice neat work. Don't worry about the scantlings, building the model is a way to learn techniques. I'm still on kits, though I must admit I usually change them as I go and learn more. Joel Sanborn -
I like a little variation in planking which is to get a clear finish. I think it helps to show off all your work in doing individual planks which using scribed plank doesn't allow. It isn't necessarily the way they built models in the old days, they might use scribed panels, but we have power tools they didn't, why not take advantage. I just keep a small stack of planking stock at hand and grab a different piece each time. Your planking looks well done and with a nice variation. Joel Sanborn
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I like the fly tying vise, might get one of those. A friend set me up with needle nose tweezers mounted to a third-hand work stand. Clamp the block in there and position where you can get to everything. Radio Shack has small all-copper alligator clips. Pass the line around the block to where both ends come out towards you. Apply the alligator clip, pulling the two ends up tight. Using thin line (thread) between the clip and block tie a series of half hitches around the pair of 'tails' until they are secure (usually four hitches suffice). Put a drop of glue on (please not CA) and you can take the clip off. Combine that with whatever sort of thimble, hook, pendant, tackle you need and you should be good to go. This is about a 1/8" block, I have done down to 3mm.
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Nine-pounders 4 inch dia. and 12 pounders just shy of 4 1/2 inches. Joel Sanborn
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Actually, amidships the birdsmouth shape removes more wood from the keel than a square corner rabbet would. It does give more plank inside the rabbet for fastening. Joel Sanborn
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Why no jibboom guys on Fair American?
jbshan replied to GaryKap's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If you note, the title of the drawing from Peterssen is jibboom and flying jibboom guys. He has omitted the physical junction between the two spars. The flying jibboom is too long to fit on the paper so he has condensed it. Joel Sanborn -
Michael, it would help a lot to know the type of vessel and rig and the scale of the model. Joel Sanborn
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I've just checked two respected sources and, where the construction is as in the original presentation, the plank edge is square and the rabbet is cut to accommodate that square corner. This is a tough joint to keep watertight so you want as much wood as you can get to fasten the plank edge to the keel. If you taper the plank edge you will have a weaker joint. Joel Sanborn
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Chuck, you forgot the subsequent encroachment penalty which gave the Pats room to take a knee twice. Insult to injury, and all self-inflicted.
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I concur with druxey. The plank is not re-shaped. All the cutting is on the keel. I wrote a short piece with diagrams for my club's newsletter. Go to: http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/ Click on 'Now Hear This' on the left of the page, then 'What is the Rabbet?' I concur with both druxey and dgbot. There are no dumb questions. There's too much to learn in this business not to ask when you get stumped. Joel Sanborn
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This model is in the collection of the US Navy Academy. Hope it helps. http://nauticalhistory.weebly.com/100-gun-royal-william-of-1719.html Joel Sanborn
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Paint, Floquil Engine Black. I didn't do a color correction and my camera turns it blue-ish. It's a dark, dark gray. I'm not sure on the availabilty since it's lacquer, spelled stinky and poisonous for children. Joel Sanborn Tiny pic just for color:
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Don't know if this will blow up enough to help any... I like a more subdued color palette, by the way. I used acrylic artist's colors, matte medium on the sails. The darker color on them is from age/dust. This is a pretty vessel; I liken it to a gull sitting on the water. Joel Sanborn
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Here are the 9-pounders: I still have to add the 'jewelry', eyebolts and ringbolts and retainer chain. I'm not sure the sizes laid out by the kit are correct, they seem a bit thin. Joel Sanborn
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Well, there might be up to nine ships that needed a full suit of flags. This is in the second half of the1600s. There was a full admiral commanding each of three squadrons, an admiral of the fleet who flew the red ensign, a vice admiral with white and a rear admiral with blue. Each of those three had two subordinates commanding portions of each squadron. The fleet might be up to 80 or more ships, so it was hard to get the signals propagated to all the ships in line. Yes, each fighting season the Admiral would issue his orders and signals, usually based on those that had been used before, and these morphed into the fighting instructions. Very nice pic, thank you, Tadeusz. I'll have to look around, I'm sure I have a pic in some book of a smaller, one or two masted vessel being launched. Joel Sanborn
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http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Philadelphia+of+1776 A couple of pics of my Philadelphia planking. I used a mechanical pencil with constant diameter lead. The scale is so large I think the blandness of the basswood needs something to keep it interesting. I'm not sure if I'll do the same with the interior plank, but almost certainly will do the deck plank the same way. At the bottom are guns, Floquil Engine Black for tthe barrels and other hardware. Pic below also. The Smithsonian has done a 3D scan of the Philadelphia, very interesting. You can drag with your mouse, expand/contract with the scroll wheel, and there is a measuring tape feature. http://3d.si.edu/explorer?modelid=47 Joel Sanborn
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Consarn it! The more I learn, the more work I seem to lay out for myself. :-) That looks tougher than doing it the easy way, Chuck. I thought I was doing good just making the linings. Thanks again. Joel Sanborn
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Thanks for that link, Chuck. I've downloaded it for future reference as the hatch work is also very useful. In everything I've read the nibbing etc. was supposed to be no less than 1/2 of the full width at the ends to provide for adequate fastening and caulking. One supposes the hooked version would have similar requirements. I've done the nibbing on models, but wasn't aware at the time that the hooked version was more correct for the period of my models.
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Flag officers would have pendants and ensigns, as rank flags. 'The Standard' refers to the Royal Standard. The Duke of Clarence, or whoever, might fly his own, on his own ship, but that would probably be called 'His Royal Highness' Flag' and in any event not make it into the general signal book as there probably wouldn't be many ships carrying that flag, maybe only one, whereas the Royal Standard would be part of a full set of flags and signals. The difference between the two is only a band with labels and not discernible from a distance. Other lesser personages would have had to satisfy themselves with a normal rank flag. Remember, too, that we are talking a very large piece of sewing here, perhaps 20 by 30 or more feet. Most people would not have such a large thing just hanging about to take out to sea with them, and certainly not copies for signaling. Joel Sanborn
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