jbshan
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Everything posted by jbshan
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Every book mentioned is a good one. What seems best is to gather from several sources, then distill that to your particular vessel. You will learn more and will have the principles rather than merely information for one vessel. Those that cover multiple types of vessel and time periods will tell you that so you can determine the suitability of a particular feature. Give a man a fish and feed him for one day. Give a man a fish hook and feed him for life.
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That's all based on size of main mast, right? Breadth for the cables? If the tables are right, the largest would go with the largest hull or masting.
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I haven't mentioned anywhere, I intend leaving the wood with a clear finish, it's so pretty. When I was planking up large areas, I would keep several lengths of stock to hand, grabbing from different ones for each plank in a strake, so the color variation would show up the individual planks.
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Jay, there are conventions about the shift of butts for planking. I don't have any to hand right now, but I believe not only would there be a certain number of planks between butts on the same beam, but also beams between butts on adjacent planks. Sort of: | | | | | | | | | | | | I believe Goodwin, "Construction and Fitting" would have this, among other authors.
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I should refine my remarks. On 1:64 scale I have used the pencil method with good results. I'm currently working on a 1:24 scale and have put grey pastel paper between the planks. They will have stain when ready, but I haven't got to that point yet so won't try to predict the result.
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My late friend Neb, a rigging expert, was of the opinion that the course yard halliards were belayed and much of the fall cut off. When needed, and these weren't lowered very often, the fall could be spliced back together in only a couple of minutes. If it is 100 feet to the jeer blocks, trebles, you could have a quarter of a mile of line to deal with.
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They are set tight, yes, but then opened with an iron to take the oakum. The tar seals over the oakum.
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Not to detract from anybody else's work, the boat at the Smithsonian has the fireplace on the deck just forward of the port gun. ????
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And there should be a beam under each port and one between, so beam spacing would be half the port center spacing.
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gunport posts
jbshan replied to harlequin's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The outer layer of the lid will be the same thickness as the hull planking, so the lining should be held back by that amount. -
Certainly they needed long straight pieces for masts and keels, etc., oak, elm or beech for keels, pines for masts. Both France and England would have needed imported pines of those sizes, mostly Baltic, though England had sources in America until the late unpleasantness beginning in 1775, thereafter Canada, and France had sources in Europe and the Med. I don't think the French took advantage of their North American possessions for timber nearly as much; they were more interested in furs. Possibly an offcut from one of those keel or mast pieces might be used for planking somewhere. A short distance *to water* would be desirable. Once they could get a big timber onto a boat or barge it got a lot easier. They could have, but would they have? Perhaps strakes next to the hatches, under the guns, or other 'binding strakes' would have been advantaged by long lengths. If Boudriot gives a generally shorter length, I would go with him. He did the research and wrote the books.
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Soft pencil on one edge and one end of each plank for me. It has variety from place to place and is subtle generally. As far as fasteners, check the scale very carefully. A nail head would be maybe 1/8". On the quarterdeck and officers' country the nail holes would be plugged with a small chip of wood, diamond shaped, and with the grain matching the plank. Practically invisible even if you were standing on the actual deck.
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Before you try it again, open up the slot just a smidge so you don't have to force it, just snug. White or yellow glue will wet and swell the wood enough to make it tight again when you do the final assembly.
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- muscongus bay lobster smack
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Looks pretty good. Thanks for sending that tip along.
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'Cutter' as a rig type implies the bowsprit could be extended for larger sails. 'Cutter' as vessel type is more of a dispatch vessel, fast, nimble, large sail area for the size of the hull. The Sherbourne drawing looks as if it is a shifting bowsprit. Some of the other examples do as well, there are two with an additional 'fid' hole forward of the bitts, and several look as if there would be clearance above the bitts for the bowsprit to shift aft, as does Alert. (Aside) If nothing else, those pics show there is more than one way to skin that cat. No two alike, are there?
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Generally, I would suggest cleaning, restoring the rigging as far as you can determine it was originally installed, and to the same level of sophistication, and basically returning a refurbished piece of folk art to its owner. Otherwise you might as well buy a current Mayflower kit and go that route. I think to go further would be a big heart breaker.
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A two-car garage ought to be big enough to still be able to have something in build after you have this one on display. You don't want to be cramped. Do be careful going back and forth between plans sets. The books (4 vol. set) are in French feet, as I understand it.
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Thanks, Daniel. I have a dime the size of a manhole cover that can be confusing to some people. I see what you're saying. Interesting that Longridge shows top hinges and Goodwin working a little later shows forward hinges. Presumably both had the same source, although perhaps Trincomalee or Unicorn entered in there somewhere, if not a source for authors, as a source for restorers.
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Just to make sure we go totally off topic, what is that white oval shape on top of the coin in the first pic? I have seen something similar in a few other posts.
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I took a blowup of the Smithsonian 3D scan. The rail seems to end at about the cathead, but there is more stuff down inside, apparently. Blocking?
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The best I've seen is 'Construction and Fitting', Peter Goodwin. He shows a solid scuttle lid that is the same thickness as the port lid. It is secured inboard with the sliding deadbolt in dafi's post #4, bottom picture. This should not be surprising since Goodwin was Curator of Victory and the pic is of Victory. Goodwin says this is the original style, that later scuttles had glass. Perhaps the kit scuttle lids are intended to represent this later style.
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That's the kind I'm talking about. You stick your bars in the holes and pull. Chuck's has iron cogs for the pawls. Mine could become iron with some paint. Post #11 above is a little simpler. You will need to decide how or if the bowsprit interacts with the windlass.
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Copper on Hermione
jbshan replied to JagMkV's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thank you, Gaetan. I defer to your more rigorous scholarship. So, Jag, there are the relevant dates. -
Don't worry about me going off topic again. I already removed about six posts of mine from a thread where the original question was not what the questioner wanted an answer to.
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