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jbshan

Gone, but not forgotten
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  1. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in French Pre-Dreadnought Battleship Carnot   
    And the spiffy paint job does so much for their appearance.
    I would think the vast number of portholes would greatly diminish their pretenses at armour protection.
  2. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from wefalck in I used latex paint to cover the hull of my Steingreber Admiral Vernon.   
    One would want to make sure, using house paint, that the layers didn't build up and hide any detail.  Using it below the waterline, where tallow or other thick goo would have been used you should be all right.
  3. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from PeteB in Lexington by jbshan - The Lumberyard - 1/64 - from the Seaways Practicum by Clay Feldman   
    Here is a link to a page with further links to three pages concerning building the boat to go on deck, a 22 ft. yawl.  Most of the information for this boat comes from W E May, The Boats of Men of War, which I highly recommend.  These pages originally appeared in my club's newsletter.
     
    http://uvsmgshipmodelguild.wikispaces.com/Scratchbuilding+a+Ship's+Boat
     
    This link will no longer work. 
     
    The wiki people want $150 for the privilege of using their site and that ain't happenin'.  I'll maybe find another place to put the material.
  4. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from PeteB in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit   
    Charlie,
    Considering the requirements for fastening and caulking, this is what I come up with for the structure of a hatchway.  Your 'coaming' would be 'hatchway' in the sketch.  If the coaming sits on top of the deck, caulking it would push the two apart. 
    The way I have it, the pressure is against the fasteners instead of along them.
     

  5. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from Jim Rogers in Syren by JesseLee - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale: 1:64   
    There should be enough of a gap to keep things secure.  Use extra and file back to the correct shape.
    Pic is of the rudder post (left) and stern post (right) on an Arab craft.  Pin on rudder drops into the gudgeon on stern post, gravity holds it in place.  Yours probably has more of a zig zag edge where the pintles are set in a notch in the rudder post.
     

  6. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from Eric W in Deafness on a 74 gunner   
    For somebody on the lowest end of the economic scale, life aboard ship was not much worse than on shore.  While not the nicest, the food was usually plentiful and on a regular time table, they had a place to sleep that wasn't under a bush in a field, they could be punished in what is to us a barbaric fashion ashore as well as afloat.  In a British ship that was long at sea but close enough to a shore base to get regular provisions, considering that the crew was young men in the peak of physical condition, the death rate was less than the population ashore.
    There are usually two sides to any story.  Many of the horror tales were told in the 19th century as reformers were becoming active, after the war was won.
    Now, as to deafness, probably.  They could tie a scarf around their heads, but probably a long-serving gun crewman would not hear as well as somebody not exposed to that racket.  They had to hear well enough to understand and carry out orders, after all.
  7. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from John Allen in Philadelphia by Elijah - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale - Continental Gunboat   
    Welcome to the world of Philadelphia.  There are several folks with logs here.  If you saved or can get the issues of Ships in Scale that contain the build by Kurt van Dam that is another resource.
  8. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from Elijah in US Brig Niagara by mikiek - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First wooden ship build   
    ditto.
    You get a sense of the multitudes involved, which shows up in the monotony for each item.
  9. Like
  10. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from coxswain in Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64   
    They seem to have left out some helpful things, like some sort of framing aft for the end of the bulwarks and transom and something to help you get that bow right.  (Remember, I didn't use the plywood, I framed things up individually.)  I inserted framing pieces into the stern block around the ports in the transom and for the 'fashion pieces' at the corners and ran my inside the top timbers piece back to that.  At the bow, I had to pad out the whole block area, and I extended the padding up to the rail.  I'm not sure if it would have helped you with the ply, but I have an s-shaped section just below the rail at the bow, giving them a slight flare.
    I seem to recall also having egregiously uneven top timbers (bulwark extensions).  I had to sand back and pad them to get a smooth curve.  Just look along the line of the ply and you can see if it wobbles in and out.  That last port you'll just have to sand things back to match the port opening.  I didn't wind up with that problem, I don't know why.  Perhaps by not using the ply I made a mistake there and it actually helped me instead of my usual mistake that hurts.
  11. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from coxswain in Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64   
    That why I put it there. 
    I'm not doing a traditional 'build log' since I have so many things going on (4 at last count), but I hope to be able to use it to post things that can help others over humps and bumps along the way.
    One other hint, not in any way related to where you are at on your model.  I've seen a lot recently on how to steam or soak or otherwise prepare plank for bending.  Try saliva.  It's a naturally occurring solvent that penetrates the wood fibers and allows them to bend more easily.  I've used it on two models so far.  Just don't use the technique on ebony, the wood made by the devil.
  12. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from coxswain in Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64   
    There you go!  Nice shapes on that blocking.
    Before you get there, I used the plywood bulwarks to mark out on the hull for port locations then threw the (put into the scraps box) plywood.
    I inherited this model as the basic 'egg crate' with plans sheets so have had to mostly do it off the cuff.  Note I have installed stiffener blocks, sheer piece, both for stability, blocking outlining the gun and oar ports, and blocking where the shrouds will be pinned.  This will be in the thickness of the hull, covered both sides with the outer and inner planking.  I also removed the plywood under deck and will use stripwood of the proper thickness for the deck.  The bulkheads are close enough together not to need the sub deck, which is pretty thin in any event.
    The knee of the head and cutwater was not well done, and the bow blocks were too small, so I redid the stem with several pieces (which don't show well here) and you can see the hawse pieces I added to pad out the bows of the hull.  It seemed easier to use the correct forms to get to the final result rather than make up some other system myself.
    Nirvana, you're pretty quick with the 'like'.  Try it with the pic I intended to send with the text.

  13. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from coxswain in Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64   
    Save and refrigerate the blood.  You can use it to coat the gun carriages or something when the time comes.  Just call it 'Iron Oxide'.
    Yah, I had no tools either.  I think I worked with the block hanging over the end of the table or something like that.
  14. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64   
    They seem to have left out some helpful things, like some sort of framing aft for the end of the bulwarks and transom and something to help you get that bow right.  (Remember, I didn't use the plywood, I framed things up individually.)  I inserted framing pieces into the stern block around the ports in the transom and for the 'fashion pieces' at the corners and ran my inside the top timbers piece back to that.  At the bow, I had to pad out the whole block area, and I extended the padding up to the rail.  I'm not sure if it would have helped you with the ply, but I have an s-shaped section just below the rail at the bow, giving them a slight flare.
    I seem to recall also having egregiously uneven top timbers (bulwark extensions).  I had to sand back and pad them to get a smooth curve.  Just look along the line of the ply and you can see if it wobbles in and out.  That last port you'll just have to sand things back to match the port opening.  I didn't wind up with that problem, I don't know why.  Perhaps by not using the ply I made a mistake there and it actually helped me instead of my usual mistake that hurts.
  15. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64   
    There you go!  Nice shapes on that blocking.
    Before you get there, I used the plywood bulwarks to mark out on the hull for port locations then threw the (put into the scraps box) plywood.
    I inherited this model as the basic 'egg crate' with plans sheets so have had to mostly do it off the cuff.  Note I have installed stiffener blocks, sheer piece, both for stability, blocking outlining the gun and oar ports, and blocking where the shrouds will be pinned.  This will be in the thickness of the hull, covered both sides with the outer and inner planking.  I also removed the plywood under deck and will use stripwood of the proper thickness for the deck.  The bulkheads are close enough together not to need the sub deck, which is pretty thin in any event.
    The knee of the head and cutwater was not well done, and the bow blocks were too small, so I redid the stem with several pieces (which don't show well here) and you can see the hawse pieces I added to pad out the bows of the hull.  It seemed easier to use the correct forms to get to the final result rather than make up some other system myself.
    Nirvana, you're pretty quick with the 'like'.  Try it with the pic I intended to send with the text.

  16. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from KenW in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype   
    For anybody wanting to shape flags, go out and sit at the mall, Burger King, maybe a factory or other commercial concern, wherever there's a flag of the size you want to model.  Remember these things were huge.  The largest ensign for Constitution would have been about the size of the Star Spangled Banner at the Smithsonian which is 30 X 42 feet.  Watch your chosen subject in the breeze.  It may have a basic waviness with small ripples running over the surface as you sometimes see in old van de Veld paintings.  In any event, watch it for a while, take a few pics, try to 'get into' the movement.  There should be a general radialness to it from the upper corner where the halliard is.  Then use Chuck's paint brush handles.
  17. Like
  18. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from Canute in Brigs Niagara and Lawrence   
    And apparently the Brown's yard and Bergh's were adjacent to each other, about where the New York Navy Yard would be established in later years.  Maybe that was zoning or maybe that was just a good place to have a building slip.  Yes, a small world, and you keep running into the same individuals, or maybe I should say the usual suspects.
  19. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from Canute in Brigs Niagara and Lawrence   
    I keep my small change in my parse.
    Queen Charlotte, if I have my time line right, was built in partial response to the US building of Oneida, which was a pure warship.  Oneida was, yes, on Lake Ontario, but the British boosted things to a higher level on Lake Erie as well.  The Provincial Marine was a quasi-navy service that performed the government's business up and down the lakes, but also was available to carry civilian merchants' goods and personnel when Govt. business didn't fill up the vessel.  You should perhaps think of a cross between the mail packet service and the East India Company that was well-armed but with fair cargo capacity and owned and operated by the Govt.
    Detroit, Lawrence and Niagara were all launched in 1813.
  20. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from Canute in Brigs Niagara and Lawrence   
    Nice camels!
    Queen Charlotte was built at Amherstburg specifically as a warship, for the Provincial Marine.  She was launched in 1810, a 'Corvette Brig to carry sixteen guns'.  She was built to a draught of William Bell for a ship rather than as a brig.  Robert Malcomson, Warships of the Great Lakes, quoting original documents.
    She was somewhat smaller than Detroit and the US Brigs, and on the day carried 16 guns on the broadside plus one on a pivot.
  21. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from Canute in Brigs Niagara and Lawrence   
    Well, Charlie, actually, since I believe that the Niagara was raised in 1876 and sent to Philadelphia where her exhibition building burned around her, all the original wood went up in flames.  There may be a few token pieces of the hull that was raised in 1913 on board (I heard as part of a door in the Capt's cabin) but nothing of any significance, and in any case that hull I believe to have been Queen Charlotte.
  22. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from Canute in Brigs Niagara and Lawrence   
    in re plans for Detroit, I don't think so.  She was not really completed when Barclay took the squadron out to meet the Americans, he lost, and his base was shortly thereafter taken by the American forces.  Like with the US brigs, I suspect if there were any plans and they got sent to Washington, the Navy Yard was burned the next summer.  Queen Charlotte was built a few years earlier and there is some information on her, but I think no specific as built plans.
  23. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in Brigs Niagara and Lawrence   
    Melbourne Smith made reference to others of the Brown brothers' works of which we have more information in his new design for Niagara.  He also made the hull long enough to accommodate the correct number of guns and carronades on deck, which the 1913 and 1933 versions did not, as Chapelle noted at the time.  The story of Smith's reconstruction is in Seaways' Ships in Scale, end of '91, start of '92, for those who have the magazines or CD.
  24. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from Heronguy in Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64   
    They seem to have left out some helpful things, like some sort of framing aft for the end of the bulwarks and transom and something to help you get that bow right.  (Remember, I didn't use the plywood, I framed things up individually.)  I inserted framing pieces into the stern block around the ports in the transom and for the 'fashion pieces' at the corners and ran my inside the top timbers piece back to that.  At the bow, I had to pad out the whole block area, and I extended the padding up to the rail.  I'm not sure if it would have helped you with the ply, but I have an s-shaped section just below the rail at the bow, giving them a slight flare.
    I seem to recall also having egregiously uneven top timbers (bulwark extensions).  I had to sand back and pad them to get a smooth curve.  Just look along the line of the ply and you can see if it wobbles in and out.  That last port you'll just have to sand things back to match the port opening.  I didn't wind up with that problem, I don't know why.  Perhaps by not using the ply I made a mistake there and it actually helped me instead of my usual mistake that hurts.
  25. Like
    jbshan got a reaction from mikiek in Brigs Niagara and Lawrence   
    And apparently the Brown's yard and Bergh's were adjacent to each other, about where the New York Navy Yard would be established in later years.  Maybe that was zoning or maybe that was just a good place to have a building slip.  Yes, a small world, and you keep running into the same individuals, or maybe I should say the usual suspects.
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