jbshan
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jbshan got a reaction from David of Berwick in Droopy Ropes
Dilute white glue and gentle stroking until set?
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Droopy Ropes
Dilute white glue and gentle stroking until set?
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jbshan reacted to dafi in Plank bending for real
That is all you need ...
... for planks sufficient long for that:
XXXDan
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jbshan got a reaction from Eddie in What is the most EPIC kit available???
One gent took a stock kit of a destroyer (USS Kidd, I believe) and turned it into a multiple blue-winning model by adding features and detail. That's pretty epic.
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jbshan got a reaction from trippwj in Framing British Ships circa 1706
Maybe I should define some of my terms:
Floor- hull frame timber that crosses the keel, equal on each side P&S.
First Futtock- hull frame timber that does not cross the keel, and in early times did not even contact the keel.
Scarph- Two meanings, 'giving scarph to', where joints of adjacent timbers are staggered so not to line up along the hull,
A joint between two timbers involving hooks, tapers, coaks, etc., where one continues the line of the other.
Chock- a triangular-shaped piece of wood bolted to and inset into the join between two timbers, in lieu of 'scarph' definition 2, reinforcing what otherwise would be a simple butt joint.
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jbshan got a reaction from dgbot in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Charlie, I think you would be safe in using the elevating screw in your time frame (1818-1825). I wouldn't rely on what sort may or may not have been used in a kit. Who knows where they may have gotten their information, and a European prototype may not fit an American/British vessel. The Americans were casting their own by 1812, so were not reliant on captures to arm their ships.
I don't know if this is pirated, but try this:
https://sites.google.com/site/shipwrightsfaq/smf-researchnotes/smf-RN-Carronade
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jbshan got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Plank bending for real
Your carpenter only patches up short lengths which do not need bending, or can be 'carved' to fit the gap made by an enemy ball. For a better repair, you go to a friendly yard in India or you anchor and build repair facilities sufficient to get home.
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jbshan got a reaction from Elijah in Section Deck Between Gunbays by mikiek - FINISHED - Panart - 1:23
Port lids should be about twice the thickness of the outer planking, Mike. Outer layer would match the hull planking, tumblehome, any wale or thicker plank present where the opening crosses, to make the outer surface smooth when the port is closed.
The inner layer would be set back or held back a bit to make a rebate to fit inside the port lining. Reference the destructions for your Niagara model. Oops, your Niagara won't help. Goodwin, Construction and Fitting will help, if you have it.
Also try this:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7390-gun-port-lids/
The pics show how thin the lids are, also one or two show the lip formed by the port lining.
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jbshan got a reaction from EJ_L in How much are you willing to pay
One place you can do fairly inexpensive and perhaps free, and it will last a long time and many different model vessels is books. The online used market is pretty good, all those old guys passing and their wives wanting to sell the books, and some places have really good library loan programs to locate the unusual titles. You don't need the pristine copy still in the original wrapper, so should be able to find good quality for a fraction of original.
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jbshan got a reaction from druxey in Plank bending for real
Your carpenter only patches up short lengths which do not need bending, or can be 'carved' to fit the gap made by an enemy ball. For a better repair, you go to a friendly yard in India or you anchor and build repair facilities sufficient to get home.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in How Realistic Can One Make Sails?
Looks good.
I was suggesting pencil for the seams, but at the next smallest scale, where you couldn't do panels.
If there were more rows of reef points, there might (would) be a panel/strip on the after side, just to give more support along the reef line. You could add a panel right on top of the large panels you have now. There are other panels added for reinforcement, as well as many books showing where they go.
Yah, the bolt ropes are a problem, as well as having to make too large stitches, scale stitches would disappear except in really large scales.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in How Realistic Can One Make Sails?
Looks good.
I was suggesting pencil for the seams, but at the next smallest scale, where you couldn't do panels.
If there were more rows of reef points, there might (would) be a panel/strip on the after side, just to give more support along the reef line. You could add a panel right on top of the large panels you have now. There are other panels added for reinforcement, as well as many books showing where they go.
Yah, the bolt ropes are a problem, as well as having to make too large stitches, scale stitches would disappear except in really large scales.
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jbshan got a reaction from RichardG in How much are you willing to pay
One place you can do fairly inexpensive and perhaps free, and it will last a long time and many different model vessels is books. The online used market is pretty good, all those old guys passing and their wives wanting to sell the books, and some places have really good library loan programs to locate the unusual titles. You don't need the pristine copy still in the original wrapper, so should be able to find good quality for a fraction of original.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Re-purposed Pland Bending Tool
The blade and backer don't meet parallel, unless there is a cam I don't see. Your curve might go off at an angle.
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jbshan got a reaction from FriedClams in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Charlie, I think you would be safe in using the elevating screw in your time frame (1818-1825). I wouldn't rely on what sort may or may not have been used in a kit. Who knows where they may have gotten their information, and a European prototype may not fit an American/British vessel. The Americans were casting their own by 1812, so were not reliant on captures to arm their ships.
I don't know if this is pirated, but try this:
https://sites.google.com/site/shipwrightsfaq/smf-researchnotes/smf-RN-Carronade
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in Re-purposed Pland Bending Tool
The blade and backer don't meet parallel, unless there is a cam I don't see. Your curve might go off at an angle.
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jbshan got a reaction from hornet in Re-purposed Pland Bending Tool
The blade and backer don't meet parallel, unless there is a cam I don't see. Your curve might go off at an angle.
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jbshan got a reaction from Canute in Plank bending for real
Your carpenter only patches up short lengths which do not need bending, or can be 'carved' to fit the gap made by an enemy ball. For a better repair, you go to a friendly yard in India or you anchor and build repair facilities sufficient to get home.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in Plank bending for real
Your carpenter only patches up short lengths which do not need bending, or can be 'carved' to fit the gap made by an enemy ball. For a better repair, you go to a friendly yard in India or you anchor and build repair facilities sufficient to get home.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in How much are you willing to pay
One place you can do fairly inexpensive and perhaps free, and it will last a long time and many different model vessels is books. The online used market is pretty good, all those old guys passing and their wives wanting to sell the books, and some places have really good library loan programs to locate the unusual titles. You don't need the pristine copy still in the original wrapper, so should be able to find good quality for a fraction of original.
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jbshan got a reaction from Landlubber Mike in How much are you willing to pay
One place you can do fairly inexpensive and perhaps free, and it will last a long time and many different model vessels is books. The online used market is pretty good, all those old guys passing and their wives wanting to sell the books, and some places have really good library loan programs to locate the unusual titles. You don't need the pristine copy still in the original wrapper, so should be able to find good quality for a fraction of original.
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jbshan got a reaction from Canute in How much are you willing to pay
One place you can do fairly inexpensive and perhaps free, and it will last a long time and many different model vessels is books. The online used market is pretty good, all those old guys passing and their wives wanting to sell the books, and some places have really good library loan programs to locate the unusual titles. You don't need the pristine copy still in the original wrapper, so should be able to find good quality for a fraction of original.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Charlie, I think you would be safe in using the elevating screw in your time frame (1818-1825). I wouldn't rely on what sort may or may not have been used in a kit. Who knows where they may have gotten their information, and a European prototype may not fit an American/British vessel. The Americans were casting their own by 1812, so were not reliant on captures to arm their ships.
I don't know if this is pirated, but try this:
https://sites.google.com/site/shipwrightsfaq/smf-researchnotes/smf-RN-Carronade
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jbshan got a reaction from Cathead in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Charlie, I think you would be safe in using the elevating screw in your time frame (1818-1825). I wouldn't rely on what sort may or may not have been used in a kit. Who knows where they may have gotten their information, and a European prototype may not fit an American/British vessel. The Americans were casting their own by 1812, so were not reliant on captures to arm their ships.
I don't know if this is pirated, but try this:
https://sites.google.com/site/shipwrightsfaq/smf-researchnotes/smf-RN-Carronade
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jbshan reacted to michaelpsutton2 in Questions about double wale
I think that there were some transitional ships built in which the middle strake was thicker than the regular plank but not yet as thick as the wales theselves. All three strakes would be paintied black and would give the appearance of a solid wale.
At what point were the wales constructed with the anchor stock pattern?
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