amateur

Hi Philemon,
 
what surprises me is that in all the builders-contracts there seems to be no reference to any drawings, nor to the approval of such drawings before the work commences. One of the members here (Werner) has spent literaly weeks in the Dutch archives and nowhere seems to be anything that points at such drawings or the use of them. Only from almost a century later (Pieter Zwijdrecht), there seems to be a number of linedrawings that were used in shipdesign (and I assume, also the building of those ships).
Any thoughts on that?
 
The drawings in the scheepvaartmuseum are three drawings that are available in the web: a longitudinal section of a threedecked ship, attributed to Sturckenburg, and two technical looking drawings of a smallfrigate (most Berlin-reconsteuctions are based on those drawings).
A coupke of years ago Ab Hoving published a review of these drawings, suggesting a more in depth research of these drawings: He notices some problems with the drawings. They are made on paper that has a watermark that is (or seems) newer than the date on the drawing, there are technical terms in the drawings that do not match the terminology in the builders contracts, the construction/frames do not match what we know of building practice in that period, They have no provenance and they came in possession of the museum in a period that there was a huge demand for 'stuff from the golden age'.
 
I will look for a web-link.
 
Jan

Finishing touches on my first dabble in the Card model world.
 
I made the lattice lantern windows using the kit template and glued thread, fiendishly difficult to bend into a tube, but it sort of went into shape.  Glazed with some thin clear sheet, topped off with a tiny weather vane.
 
This little model now has a spot in our nautical themed Summerhouse, as approved by the Admiral.  Finally a picture of the real thing taken on holiday a few years ago.
 
Thanks for the likes and follows on this first trip down the card "rabbit hole"  I have another to do, but first I better get back to my neglected "Nisha"!

60 dollars seems to be the lowest shipping costs I can get Makes buying rather expensive ….
Perhaps a problem for all packages from there to here, but in this way american webshops are not avserious option for european buyers
 
Jan

60 dollars seems to be the lowest shipping costs I can get Makes buying rather expensive ….
Perhaps a problem for all packages from there to here, but in this way american webshops are not avserious option for european buyers
 
Jan

60 dollars seems to be the lowest shipping costs I can get Makes buying rather expensive ….
Perhaps a problem for all packages from there to here, but in this way american webshops are not avserious option for european buyers
 
Jan

Yrah,, and it is self-classified as ‘good enough, but not perfect’. Makes me wonder:  How would a ‘very good, near perfect’ look like??
 
I only know paint by brush, those airbrush-jobs look terrific. But I guess it takes more thsn you can see (in talent, time and experience) to get it ‘not perfect’ like this…
 
Jan

Both wing structures done now. Here they are sitting together with the fuselage --nothing glued together yet, only to give an idea of the size. My cutting mat is about 11" wide, so yeah, compared to what I usually build, it's big!
 

Thank you all for your feedback and likes.   
And I'll add a little more about anchors. This is a spare anchor.

Bower anchor

Yrah,, and it is self-classified as ‘good enough, but not perfect’. Makes me wonder:  How would a ‘very good, near perfect’ look like??
 
I only know paint by brush, those airbrush-jobs look terrific. But I guess it takes more thsn you can see (in talent, time and experience) to get it ‘not perfect’ like this…
 
Jan

OK, beside 'talent' which is a big word and I do not consider applicable to me, the other two ingredients are correct. I started with brush painting (my other hobby is actually... 'brush painting') and then I moved to airbrush. However, I soon realized that the time spent in airbrushing models was too short, too insufficient to learn reasonably the basic techniques and, in addition, it needed a long preparation in building the model before I could get into action with it. Hence, I started to spray paint on scrap cardboard and the like trying several effects that I wanted to reproduce. This way, I could get some of the 'time' and the 'experience' that were needed.
Excuse me for this unsolicited long digression and thanks to all of you that offered benevolent comments and 'likes' 🙂,
cheers,
Dan

Yrah,, and it is self-classified as ‘good enough, but not perfect’. Makes me wonder:  How would a ‘very good, near perfect’ look like??
 
I only know paint by brush, those airbrush-jobs look terrific. But I guess it takes more thsn you can see (in talent, time and experience) to get it ‘not perfect’ like this…
 
Jan

Yrah,, and it is self-classified as ‘good enough, but not perfect’. Makes me wonder:  How would a ‘very good, near perfect’ look like??
 
I only know paint by brush, those airbrush-jobs look terrific. But I guess it takes more thsn you can see (in talent, time and experience) to get it ‘not perfect’ like this…
 
Jan

Yrah,, and it is self-classified as ‘good enough, but not perfect’. Makes me wonder:  How would a ‘very good, near perfect’ look like??
 
I only know paint by brush, those airbrush-jobs look terrific. But I guess it takes more thsn you can see (in talent, time and experience) to get it ‘not perfect’ like this…
 
Jan

Yrah,, and it is self-classified as ‘good enough, but not perfect’. Makes me wonder:  How would a ‘very good, near perfect’ look like??
 
I only know paint by brush, those airbrush-jobs look terrific. But I guess it takes more thsn you can see (in talent, time and experience) to get it ‘not perfect’ like this…
 
Jan

Well, there has been more than the usual amount of excitement in our household this weekend on the non-modeling front. Saturday, the wife hopped into her car to go shopping only to discover that all her car's systems were dead, dead, dead. Happily, the cause turned out to be merely a defective battery, which was still under warranty, so I got a new one at no cost -- easy-peasy. Today, though, I got a call informing me that my daughter had been in an accident. Happily, again, no one was hurt and the damage to both vehicles was minor, but she suffered a flat tire and a damaged rim. Of course, being Memorial Day today, no shops were open, so I can't get her a new rim and tire until at least tomorrow. 😬  Just another of life's speed bumps. 🙄
 
Okay, back to the 'Cat. In this first image, I have used my talent for 'judicious camera angles' to hide some of the more hideous seams I have made in a long time. I'll lay part of the blame on the kit's design, but part of the blame is on me.
 

 
Deciding that I needed a break from fuselage work, I put one of the wing structures together. The tabbed construction goes a long way toward making sure that everything aligns correctly; it also make the construction sequence a little iffy to figure out at times, but in the end it all came together, so I'll call that a success.
 

 
Now on to the other wing -- and hopefully no more car issues!!

I wish I was that un-perfect..... That is beautiful work....

Yrah,, and it is self-classified as ‘good enough, but not perfect’. Makes me wonder:  How would a ‘very good, near perfect’ look like??
 
I only know paint by brush, those airbrush-jobs look terrific. But I guess it takes more thsn you can see (in talent, time and experience) to get it ‘not perfect’ like this…
 
Jan

Yrah,, and it is self-classified as ‘good enough, but not perfect’. Makes me wonder:  How would a ‘very good, near perfect’ look like??
 
I only know paint by brush, those airbrush-jobs look terrific. But I guess it takes more thsn you can see (in talent, time and experience) to get it ‘not perfect’ like this…
 
Jan

The pic you showed of the original rigging (or at least, the remainders of it) do not show any signs of ratlines on the aft mast. 
I would leave them out, without ratlines, she has a cleaner look.
 
Jan

Thanks Keith, I hope my fittings and details are as good as yours.
I finally can show the effect of the plating and seams....well sort of. It's a long job, made longer by the fact that the pressure switch on my compressor has  died so have to wait a week before I can spray again.
 
Hull plates, some glued, others temporarily taped.


Weld seam, this will get widened when softened and rolled into groove.

Deck panel glued down forming waterway, the 1mm thickness replicates the 1 1/2 Semprene deck. the mast base can be seen as well as the various vent holes.
The 2mm holes in the waterways are the scupper positions.


Plates on the Fan Room roof being glued, these have not been sanded for distortion yet..

Thanks for the likes, and the comments Captain Slog, Chris and Ian.
 
Not much to tell this time. The funnel is in place. This was a simple rolled tube with a joiner on the inside. The whistle that is alongside the funnel was made from a dowel as suggested in the instructions. A printed version came with the kit, but trying to roll a long, three mm diameter tube, proved to be beyond my skills. In particular the actual whistle at the top of the tube looked weird as it was an integral part of the print. The latter was therefore made from a short length of dowel. The completed whistle was attached to the funnel using small brass eye pins. The three guy ropes are elastic thread and the one running towards the stern is attached to a hand winch used when the funnel needed to be lowered. That winch is a card tube with the handle made from styrene rod.
 
Also visible are two bench seats that were laser-cut.

That’s it for now, not a lot more before it’s finished.
 
Cheers

The Main Rail...please excuse what is probably an overly long and detailed explanation.  But why not...hopefully I wont forget to mention anything.
 
I have examined a lot of headrails on kits and I havent found one that I liked.  So I am trying hard with the headrails on the Winnie to do them justice.  It is however impossible to replicate what you see on contemporary models without a lot of carving and hand work.  Trying to avoid as much of that as possible I have made some simplifications but I think it will pass mustard as they say.  
 
The main rails are boxwood.  Like the hair brackets and cheeks they will be made in layers with several components.  Do not sand any of the char off these parts unless mentioned in the steps for their assembly.  The parts fit rather precisely. 
 
Step one:  The first two parts of each rail are glued together.  These are 1/8" thick.  Get a nice clean tight joint but dont sand the surfaces of the joint.  Try flipping one of the pieces...try both for a best fit before gluing.  The other sheet below is for step 2.
 

STEP 2: These parts are 3/64" thick.  Take the timberhead piece first and glue it onto the main rail.  Make sure its positioned nicely on top.
 

Then take the long thin strip shown above and glue it into position next  This piece will have the top edge flush with the bottom layer.  But you will notice this is true only on the ends with a space for another piece we will add later.  It is delicate so be careful.  That top edge is flush.
 

Step 3:  Take the next piece which is 1/32" thick and has a laser etched center which is hollowed out.  Glue this into position as shown below.
 

Step 4:  Remember the hair brackets???  There is a 1/64" thin delicate strip which will be inserted into that laser etched area.  Just like we did for the hair brackets.  Now this next step needs to be done carefully and delicately.  You can and should gently round off (or bevel) the top and bottom edge of this thin veneer strip.  Once inserted it will accentuate the beaded look we are shooting for.  Use a lite touch and very fine sandpaper.  400 grit.

Step 5: The final piece of the assembly.  A 3/64" thick piece that will be positioned on top of the rail.  It is laser cut with notches to accept the grating strips for the head...much later.   The angles have been predetermined for you.  This piece will bend nicely to conform to the curved shape of the main rail.  Just apply glue in the slot first and gently push it down so it starts to bend.  It should just fit into place.  Make sure you orient it correctly with the correct end facing the correct way.  Examine the photo below.  Now so far it doesnt look pretty because its a laser char mess.  
 
But now we can finally sand the heck out of the top and bottom edges of the head rail.   You can do that now.  And dont be shy.  I left a lot of meat on those top and bottom beads of the fancy profile.  Go ahead and remove that char....fill any gaps in the seams etc.  Just the top and bottom edges for now....and the timberhead.   
 

Step 6:  In this photo you can see the top edge all cleaned up nice and tidy.  No Char.   The bottom edge is clean as well.  But you will notice that one of the main rails is noticeably thinner than the other.   In this step we will gradually taper the main rail.  It should be 5/32" thick at the timberhead end.....and gradually taper to 5/64" thick at the forward end.  Maybe even a bit thinner.  Most of this will be removed from the inboard side of course.  But you can and should sand the outside edge (the fancy part towards the forward end) just a bit.  The beaded profile is a bit heavy at this point.  So you can gently sand mostly the forward end a bit to reduce the thickness just a hair....it makes the beaded profile look more delicate and to scale.
 
Then sand the inboard edge to remove most of the material.  You will notice that the nice notches in that strip for the grating strips will starts to get smaller and smaller as you reduce the thickness of the main rail.  That is fine.  You only need the smallest notch for the job when we get to it.  Get a nice even taper as shown on the completed main rail.
 
Once you finish creating the taper....go ahead and sand/file/carve that timberhead on the inboard and outboard edges to match the other two sides.  Like you would do for any other timberhead in this project.  You can see that it is done on the completed main rail below.
 

 
Step 7:  In the photo the rails are only temporarily in position.  But do notice the paint job.  The top and bottom edges are painted black along with the inboard edge.  But this painted area only goes up to the seam on the parts.  In fact, the black paint should cover all the seams for the various parts we used to assemble the main rails.  
 
Important other notes:  to get the main rail to sit nicely against the hull you will need to notch out the inboard side of the rail near the back corner.  You will understand what I mean when you get to this step.   You can also notch away the fancy molding on the hull if needed or do a combination of both.
 
In addition...the forward end of the main rail needs to be sanded to fit tightly against the stem and the hair bracket.  This is a very complex joint.  Basically you need to sand a "V" on the front edge.   Before you do this just place it in position and study the angles.  Study the photos below as well.  You are really only sanding these angles into the top bead of the main rail.   The part that sticks out on top.  You will know what I mean.   Do this with some fine grit sandpaper.  
 
Also note that I sanded the stem down flush with the tops of the main rail now that I know where they will go.  I had left it taller so it can be tweaked at this time.  I left it unpainted so you can see it in the photos.   This area .....with all of these crazy angles...will have a small flat piece glued on top.  A thin flat protective piece I believe is called a "bolster".  So it will cover these joints.  But do your best to keep them clean and neat.
 
One last note....everyone's hull will be different.  Depending on where you placed your catheads,  how you shaped the bow, how you placed your hair brackets on the stem....your model will be slightly different.  If to need to shorten the main rail that is easy enough.  Do it from the forward end of course.  But if you need to make it longer, it will be time to get creative.   Or make another set of main rails from scratch slightly longer.   
 
On a positive note I think the fancy beaded profile of the main rails came out very good.   Not over done or too large.   Sanding them down a bit really made them scale beautifully.  Dont be afraid to sand the outboard face of the main rail to make those beaded profiles  shallower.  Basically you will be reducing the top and bottom beads of the profile.

all gone ome for their supper
 

Nice model!
normally Corel has a rather basic numbering system, showing what goes where. Not easy to follow, but it leaves little to guess (only number matching)
As soon as I understood the system, it worked like a charm.
 
can you give a pic of the plans, that might help in finding the solution to your problem(s)
 
Jan