Moxis
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Moxis reacted to Bob Cleek in Lower cost (?) shiny metal parts
I don't see why one couldn't use the process for brass as well, although I think it might be faster to build up thickness with copper and then brass, nickel, or gold plate the copper. In the days of real chrome trim on autos, I believe they plated the iron with copper and then the copper with chrome. The plating process is the same for any metal, although the electrolyte mixtures may vary, I think. All the brass and copper fixtures on the old "boardroom models" of the great ocean liners were gold plated. It wasn't "realistic," as they were all painted on the prototypes, but it was a style in modeling at the time.
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Moxis got a reaction from mtaylor in Lower cost (?) shiny metal parts
Very interesting. It begins to be clear that you can electroform or electroplate items relatively easily at home with copper, but us ship model builders would need parts made of, or at least look like made of brass. So I think it is not possible to apply brass surface directly on conductive paint, but you need first to electroplate the part with copper.
But how about gold plating, can it be applied directly on conductive paint? Gold plating could be perfect on small items, it will look like polished brass, never oxidize and very thin layer of gold doesn't cost very much more than plating the parts first with copper and after that with brass.
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Moxis got a reaction from mtaylor in Lower cost (?) shiny metal parts
Very clever indeed. Could it be possible to brush plate brass directly on the conductive paint? And which products he was using for brush plating?
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Moxis got a reaction from Rudolf in 19th Century French portable binnacle
When I was making a round compass cowl for my Maaninka steamer, I first made a suitable sized ovalish ball out of plasticine. On the ball I applied a thin coat of a gel of milled fiberglass and epoxy, but left the underside open. When the epoxy was cured I removed the plasticine so I had a thin ballform coating which was sanded smooth and painted with brass colored Alclad. When weathered with black pigments the result looked quite realistic, although was not shiny polished unit as normal with these things. Thin celluloid plate was glued inside the cowl as a glass and nice compass rose found in Internet was scaled and printed & attached under glass. Then the cowl was glued on top of a wooden pinnacle.
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Moxis got a reaction from Roger Pellett in 19th Century French portable binnacle
When I was making a round compass cowl for my Maaninka steamer, I first made a suitable sized ovalish ball out of plasticine. On the ball I applied a thin coat of a gel of milled fiberglass and epoxy, but left the underside open. When the epoxy was cured I removed the plasticine so I had a thin ballform coating which was sanded smooth and painted with brass colored Alclad. When weathered with black pigments the result looked quite realistic, although was not shiny polished unit as normal with these things. Thin celluloid plate was glued inside the cowl as a glass and nice compass rose found in Internet was scaled and printed & attached under glass. Then the cowl was glued on top of a wooden pinnacle.
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Moxis reacted to stuglo in Show me yours tools !
I have bought quite a few power tools in recent years , most already mentioned, but I would suggest the my belt sander is used almost daily. When used c arefully, it saves a huge amount of time
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Moxis reacted to agamemnon9 in Show me yours tools !
Hello Moxis .... Firstly I don't like 3D very much, I like to draw my plans by myself, I have a better connection, it's also emotional ... The only time I used a big printer in a specialized printing house it is for my ground level plan, for the rest I use photos in books or on the internet and also videos ..... For the carvings I use Dremel a lot .. To make columns I use my proxxon leathe ... Sometimes I make my own tools, for example when I want to sand the inside of my four leaf clover, I take a round wooden stick and I glue my paper sand on it . After having drawn a piece I always wonder how to do it, I look for a way, sometimes it work sometimes not but I always find a solution. Thank you Moxis ..have a nice day
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Moxis got a reaction from tkay11 in 19th Century French portable binnacle
When I was making a round compass cowl for my Maaninka steamer, I first made a suitable sized ovalish ball out of plasticine. On the ball I applied a thin coat of a gel of milled fiberglass and epoxy, but left the underside open. When the epoxy was cured I removed the plasticine so I had a thin ballform coating which was sanded smooth and painted with brass colored Alclad. When weathered with black pigments the result looked quite realistic, although was not shiny polished unit as normal with these things. Thin celluloid plate was glued inside the cowl as a glass and nice compass rose found in Internet was scaled and printed & attached under glass. Then the cowl was glued on top of a wooden pinnacle.
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Moxis got a reaction from mtaylor in Show me yours tools !
Hello Agamemnon9, could you explain how you make those wonderful carvings?
And if you consider new tools, how about a small CNC router or 3D printer and a good 3D design program?
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Moxis got a reaction from VTHokiEE in 19th Century French portable binnacle
When I was making a round compass cowl for my Maaninka steamer, I first made a suitable sized ovalish ball out of plasticine. On the ball I applied a thin coat of a gel of milled fiberglass and epoxy, but left the underside open. When the epoxy was cured I removed the plasticine so I had a thin ballform coating which was sanded smooth and painted with brass colored Alclad. When weathered with black pigments the result looked quite realistic, although was not shiny polished unit as normal with these things. Thin celluloid plate was glued inside the cowl as a glass and nice compass rose found in Internet was scaled and printed & attached under glass. Then the cowl was glued on top of a wooden pinnacle.
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Moxis reacted to Bob Cleek in Scroll Saw or band saw... help me pick the right one.
I've reviewed the published comparisons. Dewalt is the highest rated of the mid-price-range scroll saws. Hegner is at the top of any list, along with a couple of others, all highly-priced accordingly.
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Moxis reacted to mnl in Scroll Saw or band saw... help me pick the right one.
I have the Hegner. I consider it without peer. It is dead quiet and very smooth. It takes either scroll saw or jewelers saw blades.
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Moxis got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Scroll Saw or band saw... help me pick the right one.
So far I have thought that the best scroll saw ever is Hegner. https://www.hegner.co.uk/products/machine-tools/scrollsaws.html It could be interesting to see a comparison between Dewalt and Hegner.
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Moxis got a reaction from mtaylor in Scroll Saw or band saw... help me pick the right one.
So far I have thought that the best scroll saw ever is Hegner. https://www.hegner.co.uk/products/machine-tools/scrollsaws.html It could be interesting to see a comparison between Dewalt and Hegner.
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Moxis got a reaction from mtaylor in Epoxy over PVA
I have used milled fiberglass mixed with epoxy to a gel like stuff and applied it inside the hull. When cured it strengthens the hull considerably and makes it watertight.
https://www.amazon.com/Great-Planes-Milled-Fiberglass-Ounces/dp/B001BHEGRO
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Moxis got a reaction from bruce d in Scroll Saw or band saw... help me pick the right one.
So far I have thought that the best scroll saw ever is Hegner. https://www.hegner.co.uk/products/machine-tools/scrollsaws.html It could be interesting to see a comparison between Dewalt and Hegner.
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Moxis got a reaction from thibaultron in Epoxy over PVA
I have used milled fiberglass mixed with epoxy to a gel like stuff and applied it inside the hull. When cured it strengthens the hull considerably and makes it watertight.
https://www.amazon.com/Great-Planes-Milled-Fiberglass-Ounces/dp/B001BHEGRO
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Moxis got a reaction from mtaylor in Corel Draw
Thanks Per and Jaager. My Corel version was many years old, I think it was #7 or near. No key or anything left, so I think it is not possible to restart it any more.
GIMP might be nice. I have to study it more carefully. I don't need this software very often, so don't want to invest hard earned money for it.
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Moxis got a reaction from Torrens in Bandsaws
Thank you guys, now I know I have a 7,8" bandsaw (wheel diameter 200 mm), a nice old Delta which could be bigger and more accurate. But with it I have built a lot of models and it fullfills my needs satisfactorily.
I had a Delta scroll saw too, but never learned how to use it properly. Or maybe it just was not the perfect tool, so I let it free to recirculation for somebody else's frustration. A Hegner would be my dream, but too expensive for a retired person. So old school manual jeweler's saw is what I am using to produce small accurate parts. Time I have enough!
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Moxis got a reaction from mtaylor in Bandsaws
Thank you guys, now I know I have a 7,8" bandsaw (wheel diameter 200 mm), a nice old Delta which could be bigger and more accurate. But with it I have built a lot of models and it fullfills my needs satisfactorily.
I had a Delta scroll saw too, but never learned how to use it properly. Or maybe it just was not the perfect tool, so I let it free to recirculation for somebody else's frustration. A Hegner would be my dream, but too expensive for a retired person. So old school manual jeweler's saw is what I am using to produce small accurate parts. Time I have enough!
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Moxis reacted to Bob Blarney in Bandsaws
one more thing - avoid 3-wheel bandsaws - most can be very cranky.
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Moxis got a reaction from bruce d in Bandsaws
Thank you guys, now I know I have a 7,8" bandsaw (wheel diameter 200 mm), a nice old Delta which could be bigger and more accurate. But with it I have built a lot of models and it fullfills my needs satisfactorily.
I had a Delta scroll saw too, but never learned how to use it properly. Or maybe it just was not the perfect tool, so I let it free to recirculation for somebody else's frustration. A Hegner would be my dream, but too expensive for a retired person. So old school manual jeweler's saw is what I am using to produce small accurate parts. Time I have enough!
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