kurtvd19

Gary:
The history is that we move the conferences so that as much as possible East and West coasts plus the Midwest are covered as close to equally as we can do so.  This is so that all members can attend a conference without having to travel clear across the country as often as possible. 
Since 2013 there have been 4 Eastern events, with the 2020/2021 being in CA that will be a third Western event.  The only Midwest event since 2013 was 2014 in St. Louis.  So, we are overdue for a Midwest conf.
The 2021 event will be in CA where the 2020 event was to be held.  We plan on the 2022 event being a Midwest event possibly at a Great Lakes location.
We have talked with the Mariner's Museum in VA and it is a likely location but there have been absolutely no plans made beyond 2022.
A membership survey will be done before we make any plans beyond 2022.
Kurt
 

BADGER 150 DOUBLE ACTION AIRBRUSH SET   SOLD
The Badger 150 is an exceptionally reliable airbrush made to provide the modeler with an airbrush able to spray any type of paint or finish.  It is a double action, internal mix unit.  Internal mix airbrushes provide the best finish when using an airbrush.  Double action airbrushes are not the best choice for beginners.
This airbrush set is complete with fine, medium, and large orifice spray heads and matching needle sets, a braided air hose, two sizes of paint bottles and a 1/4 oz. color cup for small jobs.
The medium needle/spray head set up is currently in place as it is the most used in painting model ships.
To purchase this new today would cost at least $150. 
I have tested this set and can assure the purchaser it works great.  It was previously owned by the late Steve Wheeler and was used to paint several models that all won gold awards in competition at the WI Maritime Museum contests.  Some of the models also won best of show awards.  YOUR RESULTS MIGHT VARY.
The price is $50 plus normal USPS shipping (at exact cost) US and Canada only.  The proceeds will go to the WI Maritime Museum in Manitowoc, WI.  PayPal preferred.  Please reply by PM.

AZTEK AIRBRUSH SET
This is the deluxe set of the Aztek Airbrush – I think it was produced by Testor’s.  I have never used this brush and have not tested it.  But it was formerly owned by the late Steve Wheeler and he took great care of his tools and it appears to be immaculate.
This does not include an air hose or instruction book.                                                                                      SOLD
Cost is $25 plus USPS shipping (at exact cost) US & Canada only.  PayPal preferred.
Please reply by PM.

this is the only answer 🤪

AZTEK AIRBRUSH SET
This is the deluxe set of the Aztek Airbrush – I think it was produced by Testor’s.  I have never used this brush and have not tested it.  But it was formerly owned by the late Steve Wheeler and he took great care of his tools and it appears to be immaculate.
This does not include an air hose or instruction book.                                                                                      SOLD
Cost is $25 plus USPS shipping (at exact cost) US & Canada only.  PayPal preferred.
Please reply by PM.

BADGER 150 DOUBLE ACTION AIRBRUSH SET   SOLD
The Badger 150 is an exceptionally reliable airbrush made to provide the modeler with an airbrush able to spray any type of paint or finish.  It is a double action, internal mix unit.  Internal mix airbrushes provide the best finish when using an airbrush.  Double action airbrushes are not the best choice for beginners.
This airbrush set is complete with fine, medium, and large orifice spray heads and matching needle sets, a braided air hose, two sizes of paint bottles and a 1/4 oz. color cup for small jobs.
The medium needle/spray head set up is currently in place as it is the most used in painting model ships.
To purchase this new today would cost at least $150. 
I have tested this set and can assure the purchaser it works great.  It was previously owned by the late Steve Wheeler and was used to paint several models that all won gold awards in competition at the WI Maritime Museum contests.  Some of the models also won best of show awards.  YOUR RESULTS MIGHT VARY.
The price is $50 plus normal USPS shipping (at exact cost) US and Canada only.  The proceeds will go to the WI Maritime Museum in Manitowoc, WI.  PayPal preferred.  Please reply by PM.

Gary:
The history is that we move the conferences so that as much as possible East and West coasts plus the Midwest are covered as close to equally as we can do so.  This is so that all members can attend a conference without having to travel clear across the country as often as possible. 
Since 2013 there have been 4 Eastern events, with the 2020/2021 being in CA that will be a third Western event.  The only Midwest event since 2013 was 2014 in St. Louis.  So, we are overdue for a Midwest conf.
The 2021 event will be in CA where the 2020 event was to be held.  We plan on the 2022 event being a Midwest event possibly at a Great Lakes location.
We have talked with the Mariner's Museum in VA and it is a likely location but there have been absolutely no plans made beyond 2022.
A membership survey will be done before we make any plans beyond 2022.
Kurt
 

Gary:
The history is that we move the conferences so that as much as possible East and West coasts plus the Midwest are covered as close to equally as we can do so.  This is so that all members can attend a conference without having to travel clear across the country as often as possible. 
Since 2013 there have been 4 Eastern events, with the 2020/2021 being in CA that will be a third Western event.  The only Midwest event since 2013 was 2014 in St. Louis.  So, we are overdue for a Midwest conf.
The 2021 event will be in CA where the 2020 event was to be held.  We plan on the 2022 event being a Midwest event possibly at a Great Lakes location.
We have talked with the Mariner's Museum in VA and it is a likely location but there have been absolutely no plans made beyond 2022.
A membership survey will be done before we make any plans beyond 2022.
Kurt
 

AZTEK AIRBRUSH SET
This is the deluxe set of the Aztek Airbrush – I think it was produced by Testor’s.  I have never used this brush and have not tested it.  But it was formerly owned by the late Steve Wheeler and he took great care of his tools and it appears to be immaculate.
This does not include an air hose or instruction book.                                                                                      SOLD
Cost is $25 plus USPS shipping (at exact cost) US & Canada only.  PayPal preferred.
Please reply by PM.

BADGER 150 DOUBLE ACTION AIRBRUSH SET   SOLD
The Badger 150 is an exceptionally reliable airbrush made to provide the modeler with an airbrush able to spray any type of paint or finish.  It is a double action, internal mix unit.  Internal mix airbrushes provide the best finish when using an airbrush.  Double action airbrushes are not the best choice for beginners.
This airbrush set is complete with fine, medium, and large orifice spray heads and matching needle sets, a braided air hose, two sizes of paint bottles and a 1/4 oz. color cup for small jobs.
The medium needle/spray head set up is currently in place as it is the most used in painting model ships.
To purchase this new today would cost at least $150. 
I have tested this set and can assure the purchaser it works great.  It was previously owned by the late Steve Wheeler and was used to paint several models that all won gold awards in competition at the WI Maritime Museum contests.  Some of the models also won best of show awards.  YOUR RESULTS MIGHT VARY.
The price is $50 plus normal USPS shipping (at exact cost) US and Canada only.  The proceeds will go to the WI Maritime Museum in Manitowoc, WI.  PayPal preferred.  Please reply by PM.

AZTEK AIRBRUSH SET
This is the deluxe set of the Aztek Airbrush – I think it was produced by Testor’s.  I have never used this brush and have not tested it.  But it was formerly owned by the late Steve Wheeler and he took great care of his tools and it appears to be immaculate.
This does not include an air hose or instruction book.                                                                                      SOLD
Cost is $25 plus USPS shipping (at exact cost) US & Canada only.  PayPal preferred.
Please reply by PM.

Gary:
The history is that we move the conferences so that as much as possible East and West coasts plus the Midwest are covered as close to equally as we can do so.  This is so that all members can attend a conference without having to travel clear across the country as often as possible. 
Since 2013 there have been 4 Eastern events, with the 2020/2021 being in CA that will be a third Western event.  The only Midwest event since 2013 was 2014 in St. Louis.  So, we are overdue for a Midwest conf.
The 2021 event will be in CA where the 2020 event was to be held.  We plan on the 2022 event being a Midwest event possibly at a Great Lakes location.
We have talked with the Mariner's Museum in VA and it is a likely location but there have been absolutely no plans made beyond 2022.
A membership survey will be done before we make any plans beyond 2022.
Kurt
 

Gary:
The history is that we move the conferences so that as much as possible East and West coasts plus the Midwest are covered as close to equally as we can do so.  This is so that all members can attend a conference without having to travel clear across the country as often as possible. 
Since 2013 there have been 4 Eastern events, with the 2020/2021 being in CA that will be a third Western event.  The only Midwest event since 2013 was 2014 in St. Louis.  So, we are overdue for a Midwest conf.
The 2021 event will be in CA where the 2020 event was to be held.  We plan on the 2022 event being a Midwest event possibly at a Great Lakes location.
We have talked with the Mariner's Museum in VA and it is a likely location but there have been absolutely no plans made beyond 2022.
A membership survey will be done before we make any plans beyond 2022.
Kurt
 

An adjustable drafting chair is what I use for the couple of different height tables/benches in my shop.

An adjustable drafting chair is what I use for the couple of different height tables/benches in my shop.

An adjustable drafting chair is what I use for the couple of different height tables/benches in my shop.

A problem with cutting planks - or anything thin - between the blade and the fence is the rotation of the blade will send it back at the operator with the slightest amount of pinch or a twist of the cut piece.  On big saws this has injured operators severely as well as killed some.  I don't think anybody has to worry about a fatal injury from our model saws but don't think this can't injure you.  Using a push stick helps cancel this out but one chews up a lot of push sticks when doing thin strips because the push stick has to be real thin when doing real thin planks.  If you have ever had a push stick hit by the blade tooth you know the kind of shock that can be transmitted to your hand. 
 
It can all be avoided when using a tool to the left of the blade so there is nothing adjacent to the cut piece and it can fall away from the blade rather than come back at you and it's easier to use a push stick when one is pushing on the thicker part of the sheet.
 
This is something that is used with full size table saws but the fixtures/tools that work on the big saws will not work on our small saws.  I adapted the idea to a fixture I use on my Byrnes saws. 

The fixture is set to the left of the blade as shown above (Lefties you probably set your fence to the left of the blade so when I say left or right do the opposite).   Measure where to place the fixture as shown below - measuring from the blade to the tip of the fixture for the thickness you want for the strips.  With the sheet material moved into contact with the fixture on the left and the fence on the right.  Lock the fixture down.  This only locks the gauge part to the aluminum piece that fits into the groove on the saw table.  I cut the aluminum to be a tight fit that still slides back and forth within the groove until I tighten it a bit more and the aluminum piece locks into the groove - notice the slit in the length of the aluminum piece - there is a counter-bore on the underside so the flat head machine screw makes the edges spread a bit wider when the screw is fully tightened.
 
Move the fixture back towards you so there is a gap between the leading edge of the blade and the fixture as shown above and fully tighten the locking screw as described above.  Turn the saw on and use a push stick to push the wide sheet material to cut the strip.  When the strip is cut, it will fall to the left of the blade, move it out of the way and then pick up the sheet material and place it between the fixture and the fence - forward of the blade.  Move the fence over to bump the sheet material up to the fixture and cut the next strip.
 
On the Byrnes saw the thickness of each strip will be as close to exactly the same thickness as you can ever get.  When I started cutting strips this was I measured each strip to see the variation - if any - and found that +/- 0.0005" maximum was what I was getting.  Wood can change that amount or more from day to day with humidity changes in the shop.  A bit of practice on how tight to make the fit between the fixture and the fence is needed but by the time one cuts a dozen strips the variation will be what I listed or less.
 
The fixture shown below was my first generation tool that I used for several years before I made the one out of Plexiglas.
 

The first generation fixture below
 

 

A problem with cutting planks - or anything thin - between the blade and the fence is the rotation of the blade will send it back at the operator with the slightest amount of pinch or a twist of the cut piece.  On big saws this has injured operators severely as well as killed some.  I don't think anybody has to worry about a fatal injury from our model saws but don't think this can't injure you.  Using a push stick helps cancel this out but one chews up a lot of push sticks when doing thin strips because the push stick has to be real thin when doing real thin planks.  If you have ever had a push stick hit by the blade tooth you know the kind of shock that can be transmitted to your hand. 
 
It can all be avoided when using a tool to the left of the blade so there is nothing adjacent to the cut piece and it can fall away from the blade rather than come back at you and it's easier to use a push stick when one is pushing on the thicker part of the sheet.
 
This is something that is used with full size table saws but the fixtures/tools that work on the big saws will not work on our small saws.  I adapted the idea to a fixture I use on my Byrnes saws. 

The fixture is set to the left of the blade as shown above (Lefties you probably set your fence to the left of the blade so when I say left or right do the opposite).   Measure where to place the fixture as shown below - measuring from the blade to the tip of the fixture for the thickness you want for the strips.  With the sheet material moved into contact with the fixture on the left and the fence on the right.  Lock the fixture down.  This only locks the gauge part to the aluminum piece that fits into the groove on the saw table.  I cut the aluminum to be a tight fit that still slides back and forth within the groove until I tighten it a bit more and the aluminum piece locks into the groove - notice the slit in the length of the aluminum piece - there is a counter-bore on the underside so the flat head machine screw makes the edges spread a bit wider when the screw is fully tightened.
 
Move the fixture back towards you so there is a gap between the leading edge of the blade and the fixture as shown above and fully tighten the locking screw as described above.  Turn the saw on and use a push stick to push the wide sheet material to cut the strip.  When the strip is cut, it will fall to the left of the blade, move it out of the way and then pick up the sheet material and place it between the fixture and the fence - forward of the blade.  Move the fence over to bump the sheet material up to the fixture and cut the next strip.
 
On the Byrnes saw the thickness of each strip will be as close to exactly the same thickness as you can ever get.  When I started cutting strips this was I measured each strip to see the variation - if any - and found that +/- 0.0005" maximum was what I was getting.  Wood can change that amount or more from day to day with humidity changes in the shop.  A bit of practice on how tight to make the fit between the fixture and the fence is needed but by the time one cuts a dozen strips the variation will be what I listed or less.
 
The fixture shown below was my first generation tool that I used for several years before I made the one out of Plexiglas.
 

The first generation fixture below
 

 

A problem with cutting planks - or anything thin - between the blade and the fence is the rotation of the blade will send it back at the operator with the slightest amount of pinch or a twist of the cut piece.  On big saws this has injured operators severely as well as killed some.  I don't think anybody has to worry about a fatal injury from our model saws but don't think this can't injure you.  Using a push stick helps cancel this out but one chews up a lot of push sticks when doing thin strips because the push stick has to be real thin when doing real thin planks.  If you have ever had a push stick hit by the blade tooth you know the kind of shock that can be transmitted to your hand. 
 
It can all be avoided when using a tool to the left of the blade so there is nothing adjacent to the cut piece and it can fall away from the blade rather than come back at you and it's easier to use a push stick when one is pushing on the thicker part of the sheet.
 
This is something that is used with full size table saws but the fixtures/tools that work on the big saws will not work on our small saws.  I adapted the idea to a fixture I use on my Byrnes saws. 

The fixture is set to the left of the blade as shown above (Lefties you probably set your fence to the left of the blade so when I say left or right do the opposite).   Measure where to place the fixture as shown below - measuring from the blade to the tip of the fixture for the thickness you want for the strips.  With the sheet material moved into contact with the fixture on the left and the fence on the right.  Lock the fixture down.  This only locks the gauge part to the aluminum piece that fits into the groove on the saw table.  I cut the aluminum to be a tight fit that still slides back and forth within the groove until I tighten it a bit more and the aluminum piece locks into the groove - notice the slit in the length of the aluminum piece - there is a counter-bore on the underside so the flat head machine screw makes the edges spread a bit wider when the screw is fully tightened.
 
Move the fixture back towards you so there is a gap between the leading edge of the blade and the fixture as shown above and fully tighten the locking screw as described above.  Turn the saw on and use a push stick to push the wide sheet material to cut the strip.  When the strip is cut, it will fall to the left of the blade, move it out of the way and then pick up the sheet material and place it between the fixture and the fence - forward of the blade.  Move the fence over to bump the sheet material up to the fixture and cut the next strip.
 
On the Byrnes saw the thickness of each strip will be as close to exactly the same thickness as you can ever get.  When I started cutting strips this was I measured each strip to see the variation - if any - and found that +/- 0.0005" maximum was what I was getting.  Wood can change that amount or more from day to day with humidity changes in the shop.  A bit of practice on how tight to make the fit between the fixture and the fence is needed but by the time one cuts a dozen strips the variation will be what I listed or less.
 
The fixture shown below was my first generation tool that I used for several years before I made the one out of Plexiglas.
 

The first generation fixture below
 

 

A problem with cutting planks - or anything thin - between the blade and the fence is the rotation of the blade will send it back at the operator with the slightest amount of pinch or a twist of the cut piece.  On big saws this has injured operators severely as well as killed some.  I don't think anybody has to worry about a fatal injury from our model saws but don't think this can't injure you.  Using a push stick helps cancel this out but one chews up a lot of push sticks when doing thin strips because the push stick has to be real thin when doing real thin planks.  If you have ever had a push stick hit by the blade tooth you know the kind of shock that can be transmitted to your hand. 
 
It can all be avoided when using a tool to the left of the blade so there is nothing adjacent to the cut piece and it can fall away from the blade rather than come back at you and it's easier to use a push stick when one is pushing on the thicker part of the sheet.
 
This is something that is used with full size table saws but the fixtures/tools that work on the big saws will not work on our small saws.  I adapted the idea to a fixture I use on my Byrnes saws. 

The fixture is set to the left of the blade as shown above (Lefties you probably set your fence to the left of the blade so when I say left or right do the opposite).   Measure where to place the fixture as shown below - measuring from the blade to the tip of the fixture for the thickness you want for the strips.  With the sheet material moved into contact with the fixture on the left and the fence on the right.  Lock the fixture down.  This only locks the gauge part to the aluminum piece that fits into the groove on the saw table.  I cut the aluminum to be a tight fit that still slides back and forth within the groove until I tighten it a bit more and the aluminum piece locks into the groove - notice the slit in the length of the aluminum piece - there is a counter-bore on the underside so the flat head machine screw makes the edges spread a bit wider when the screw is fully tightened.
 
Move the fixture back towards you so there is a gap between the leading edge of the blade and the fixture as shown above and fully tighten the locking screw as described above.  Turn the saw on and use a push stick to push the wide sheet material to cut the strip.  When the strip is cut, it will fall to the left of the blade, move it out of the way and then pick up the sheet material and place it between the fixture and the fence - forward of the blade.  Move the fence over to bump the sheet material up to the fixture and cut the next strip.
 
On the Byrnes saw the thickness of each strip will be as close to exactly the same thickness as you can ever get.  When I started cutting strips this was I measured each strip to see the variation - if any - and found that +/- 0.0005" maximum was what I was getting.  Wood can change that amount or more from day to day with humidity changes in the shop.  A bit of practice on how tight to make the fit between the fixture and the fence is needed but by the time one cuts a dozen strips the variation will be what I listed or less.
 
The fixture shown below was my first generation tool that I used for several years before I made the one out of Plexiglas.
 

The first generation fixture below
 

 

A problem with cutting planks - or anything thin - between the blade and the fence is the rotation of the blade will send it back at the operator with the slightest amount of pinch or a twist of the cut piece.  On big saws this has injured operators severely as well as killed some.  I don't think anybody has to worry about a fatal injury from our model saws but don't think this can't injure you.  Using a push stick helps cancel this out but one chews up a lot of push sticks when doing thin strips because the push stick has to be real thin when doing real thin planks.  If you have ever had a push stick hit by the blade tooth you know the kind of shock that can be transmitted to your hand. 
 
It can all be avoided when using a tool to the left of the blade so there is nothing adjacent to the cut piece and it can fall away from the blade rather than come back at you and it's easier to use a push stick when one is pushing on the thicker part of the sheet.
 
This is something that is used with full size table saws but the fixtures/tools that work on the big saws will not work on our small saws.  I adapted the idea to a fixture I use on my Byrnes saws. 

The fixture is set to the left of the blade as shown above (Lefties you probably set your fence to the left of the blade so when I say left or right do the opposite).   Measure where to place the fixture as shown below - measuring from the blade to the tip of the fixture for the thickness you want for the strips.  With the sheet material moved into contact with the fixture on the left and the fence on the right.  Lock the fixture down.  This only locks the gauge part to the aluminum piece that fits into the groove on the saw table.  I cut the aluminum to be a tight fit that still slides back and forth within the groove until I tighten it a bit more and the aluminum piece locks into the groove - notice the slit in the length of the aluminum piece - there is a counter-bore on the underside so the flat head machine screw makes the edges spread a bit wider when the screw is fully tightened.
 
Move the fixture back towards you so there is a gap between the leading edge of the blade and the fixture as shown above and fully tighten the locking screw as described above.  Turn the saw on and use a push stick to push the wide sheet material to cut the strip.  When the strip is cut, it will fall to the left of the blade, move it out of the way and then pick up the sheet material and place it between the fixture and the fence - forward of the blade.  Move the fence over to bump the sheet material up to the fixture and cut the next strip.
 
On the Byrnes saw the thickness of each strip will be as close to exactly the same thickness as you can ever get.  When I started cutting strips this was I measured each strip to see the variation - if any - and found that +/- 0.0005" maximum was what I was getting.  Wood can change that amount or more from day to day with humidity changes in the shop.  A bit of practice on how tight to make the fit between the fixture and the fence is needed but by the time one cuts a dozen strips the variation will be what I listed or less.
 
The fixture shown below was my first generation tool that I used for several years before I made the one out of Plexiglas.
 

The first generation fixture below
 

 

Glenn,
 
Thanks for taking the time to share your learnings and contribute to discussion on this subject. As you say, there are many ways to tackle this task and yours is clearly a valid way. I personally use a jig very similar to the one shown and described by Kurt, and I have also used a method similar to that described by Mark Taylor. All of them are valid. All of them are safe as long as you follow appropriate precautions for your chosen method.
 
Please don’t regret your original post based on a few ill-considered comments. The rest of us appreciate your contribution.

A problem with cutting planks - or anything thin - between the blade and the fence is the rotation of the blade will send it back at the operator with the slightest amount of pinch or a twist of the cut piece.  On big saws this has injured operators severely as well as killed some.  I don't think anybody has to worry about a fatal injury from our model saws but don't think this can't injure you.  Using a push stick helps cancel this out but one chews up a lot of push sticks when doing thin strips because the push stick has to be real thin when doing real thin planks.  If you have ever had a push stick hit by the blade tooth you know the kind of shock that can be transmitted to your hand. 
 
It can all be avoided when using a tool to the left of the blade so there is nothing adjacent to the cut piece and it can fall away from the blade rather than come back at you and it's easier to use a push stick when one is pushing on the thicker part of the sheet.
 
This is something that is used with full size table saws but the fixtures/tools that work on the big saws will not work on our small saws.  I adapted the idea to a fixture I use on my Byrnes saws. 

The fixture is set to the left of the blade as shown above (Lefties you probably set your fence to the left of the blade so when I say left or right do the opposite).   Measure where to place the fixture as shown below - measuring from the blade to the tip of the fixture for the thickness you want for the strips.  With the sheet material moved into contact with the fixture on the left and the fence on the right.  Lock the fixture down.  This only locks the gauge part to the aluminum piece that fits into the groove on the saw table.  I cut the aluminum to be a tight fit that still slides back and forth within the groove until I tighten it a bit more and the aluminum piece locks into the groove - notice the slit in the length of the aluminum piece - there is a counter-bore on the underside so the flat head machine screw makes the edges spread a bit wider when the screw is fully tightened.
 
Move the fixture back towards you so there is a gap between the leading edge of the blade and the fixture as shown above and fully tighten the locking screw as described above.  Turn the saw on and use a push stick to push the wide sheet material to cut the strip.  When the strip is cut, it will fall to the left of the blade, move it out of the way and then pick up the sheet material and place it between the fixture and the fence - forward of the blade.  Move the fence over to bump the sheet material up to the fixture and cut the next strip.
 
On the Byrnes saw the thickness of each strip will be as close to exactly the same thickness as you can ever get.  When I started cutting strips this was I measured each strip to see the variation - if any - and found that +/- 0.0005" maximum was what I was getting.  Wood can change that amount or more from day to day with humidity changes in the shop.  A bit of practice on how tight to make the fit between the fixture and the fence is needed but by the time one cuts a dozen strips the variation will be what I listed or less.
 
The fixture shown below was my first generation tool that I used for several years before I made the one out of Plexiglas.
 

The first generation fixture below
 

 

A problem with cutting planks - or anything thin - between the blade and the fence is the rotation of the blade will send it back at the operator with the slightest amount of pinch or a twist of the cut piece.  On big saws this has injured operators severely as well as killed some.  I don't think anybody has to worry about a fatal injury from our model saws but don't think this can't injure you.  Using a push stick helps cancel this out but one chews up a lot of push sticks when doing thin strips because the push stick has to be real thin when doing real thin planks.  If you have ever had a push stick hit by the blade tooth you know the kind of shock that can be transmitted to your hand. 
 
It can all be avoided when using a tool to the left of the blade so there is nothing adjacent to the cut piece and it can fall away from the blade rather than come back at you and it's easier to use a push stick when one is pushing on the thicker part of the sheet.
 
This is something that is used with full size table saws but the fixtures/tools that work on the big saws will not work on our small saws.  I adapted the idea to a fixture I use on my Byrnes saws. 

The fixture is set to the left of the blade as shown above (Lefties you probably set your fence to the left of the blade so when I say left or right do the opposite).   Measure where to place the fixture as shown below - measuring from the blade to the tip of the fixture for the thickness you want for the strips.  With the sheet material moved into contact with the fixture on the left and the fence on the right.  Lock the fixture down.  This only locks the gauge part to the aluminum piece that fits into the groove on the saw table.  I cut the aluminum to be a tight fit that still slides back and forth within the groove until I tighten it a bit more and the aluminum piece locks into the groove - notice the slit in the length of the aluminum piece - there is a counter-bore on the underside so the flat head machine screw makes the edges spread a bit wider when the screw is fully tightened.
 
Move the fixture back towards you so there is a gap between the leading edge of the blade and the fixture as shown above and fully tighten the locking screw as described above.  Turn the saw on and use a push stick to push the wide sheet material to cut the strip.  When the strip is cut, it will fall to the left of the blade, move it out of the way and then pick up the sheet material and place it between the fixture and the fence - forward of the blade.  Move the fence over to bump the sheet material up to the fixture and cut the next strip.
 
On the Byrnes saw the thickness of each strip will be as close to exactly the same thickness as you can ever get.  When I started cutting strips this was I measured each strip to see the variation - if any - and found that +/- 0.0005" maximum was what I was getting.  Wood can change that amount or more from day to day with humidity changes in the shop.  A bit of practice on how tight to make the fit between the fixture and the fence is needed but by the time one cuts a dozen strips the variation will be what I listed or less.
 
The fixture shown below was my first generation tool that I used for several years before I made the one out of Plexiglas.
 

The first generation fixture below
 

 

A problem with cutting planks - or anything thin - between the blade and the fence is the rotation of the blade will send it back at the operator with the slightest amount of pinch or a twist of the cut piece.  On big saws this has injured operators severely as well as killed some.  I don't think anybody has to worry about a fatal injury from our model saws but don't think this can't injure you.  Using a push stick helps cancel this out but one chews up a lot of push sticks when doing thin strips because the push stick has to be real thin when doing real thin planks.  If you have ever had a push stick hit by the blade tooth you know the kind of shock that can be transmitted to your hand. 
 
It can all be avoided when using a tool to the left of the blade so there is nothing adjacent to the cut piece and it can fall away from the blade rather than come back at you and it's easier to use a push stick when one is pushing on the thicker part of the sheet.
 
This is something that is used with full size table saws but the fixtures/tools that work on the big saws will not work on our small saws.  I adapted the idea to a fixture I use on my Byrnes saws. 

The fixture is set to the left of the blade as shown above (Lefties you probably set your fence to the left of the blade so when I say left or right do the opposite).   Measure where to place the fixture as shown below - measuring from the blade to the tip of the fixture for the thickness you want for the strips.  With the sheet material moved into contact with the fixture on the left and the fence on the right.  Lock the fixture down.  This only locks the gauge part to the aluminum piece that fits into the groove on the saw table.  I cut the aluminum to be a tight fit that still slides back and forth within the groove until I tighten it a bit more and the aluminum piece locks into the groove - notice the slit in the length of the aluminum piece - there is a counter-bore on the underside so the flat head machine screw makes the edges spread a bit wider when the screw is fully tightened.
 
Move the fixture back towards you so there is a gap between the leading edge of the blade and the fixture as shown above and fully tighten the locking screw as described above.  Turn the saw on and use a push stick to push the wide sheet material to cut the strip.  When the strip is cut, it will fall to the left of the blade, move it out of the way and then pick up the sheet material and place it between the fixture and the fence - forward of the blade.  Move the fence over to bump the sheet material up to the fixture and cut the next strip.
 
On the Byrnes saw the thickness of each strip will be as close to exactly the same thickness as you can ever get.  When I started cutting strips this was I measured each strip to see the variation - if any - and found that +/- 0.0005" maximum was what I was getting.  Wood can change that amount or more from day to day with humidity changes in the shop.  A bit of practice on how tight to make the fit between the fixture and the fence is needed but by the time one cuts a dozen strips the variation will be what I listed or less.
 
The fixture shown below was my first generation tool that I used for several years before I made the one out of Plexiglas.
 

The first generation fixture below