dafi
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Everything posted by dafi
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I like the "Art Brute" Plenty of 1 mm holes in safe distance to the edge, all around the frame, then the scalpel and then the files 🙂 For this, even I use a motordrill 😉 XXXDAn
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Do not think so 🙂 I think there is a misinterpretation that got its own life. As the culprits had a red and blue scarf there was the interpretation them to represent the marines and sailors. It appeared that the damages the culprits took - one left an arm, one a leg - were coincidenting with the major wounds of the 2 groups at the battle. And this took a life on its own ending up in the believe that were a marine and a sailor standing beside the coat of arms. But that is imho. The article publishing this picture originates from 1891, so it is not contemporary. Also the Independent revealed that since approx. 1815 both of the Culprits were on board 🙂 https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/hms-victory-royal-navy-battle-trafalgar-b1799397.html?fbclid=IwAR1tZj6hC8OtZAaXlQtRrkZbT_ohxLmznkYIvSj1t82CGkgjvAPcVjbcOUo XXXDAn
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And an easy but effective one still: open the lower door to the side galleries*** 🙂 XXXDAn ***if you dot plan to put someone there seeking privacy 😉
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Forgot to say: Rest is looking great 🙂 Do not forget the enlarging of the wales in between the fenders. XXXDAn
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To be honest, the holes for the gunport lid lanyards appear quite messy on the pictures. Did you drill them with a motor drill? Looks like the molten material enlarged some holes quite a bit. Would you perhaps consider to close them with original Heller sprue, heated up and pulled into right thickness and then stuck in and with plastic glue sealing the old holes? This would give a great base for the new holes as it is then a homogenous replacement with the hull. For the new holes use a pointed scribing iron to mark the exact place first and then drill a hole by hand using a 0,5 mm drill 🙂 If ever later a bigger hole is needed, it is not a problem to enlarge the holes with another drill - also done by hand. If it sound good, just try out on one port first, before takling all the other ones. All the best, DAniel
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I usually do both 🙂 The reason is very simple. The painting might leave some microscopic places blanc and once the light shines on, it then might call a lot of unwanted attention. I had to realize this already long times after finishing a project, suddenly with the right (or better wrong) light one sees a nice golden blink. With blackened parts this does not happen. But even with black there are more than 50 shades of black 😉 So with overpainting blackened part with a thin touch of paint, the parts will blend in perfectly and no shiny monsters will appear 🙂 All the best, Daniel
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Hello Bill! Bahooooooooo and off we go!!! Basically any blackening product will do. I use the cheap one from Krick, not the best but works. Take a small glass bottle and poor enough of the stuff in, leave the parts in over night. Take the parts out and rinse well. Before glueing take care to scratch off the black stuff or the superglue will only hold the black stuff back and not the brass inside … I just blacken the pieces as they are. If ever the parts do not take the blackener in, try a solvent first, if no reaction then try another brand. Smaller parts I leave on the sprue, as they would be difficult to retrieve. Also there are blackners that can be applied with a brush.They usually also work faster. Then one can easily „paint“ the parts on the sprue.Have a search in MSW for the theme. But even blackened I apply a thinny coat of the surrounding black color for that there is the same shade. Bigger parts that can be retrieved easily out off the soup I take off the sprue before blackening. XXXDAn
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Of course I will. See it as luck or a curse 😉 One remark: It is a pleasure to help. Still it is your build and if ever I say too much please give a sign. XXXDAn
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No idea either. Sure it represents the breech. One more tip: If you assemble the carriages, have a look that the ejection marks point to the inside 🙂 XXXDAn
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Dear Bill, I hope you do not mind that we get beyond your build log 🙂 For the above mentioned links, one has to click onto the arrow on the top right corner to go to the mentioned entry. But there is nothing about Turner shown there. I think @Morgan mentioned something hehe in MSW. The best interpretation so far imho is from Maik and to be found in our german forum: https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t7042f1475-HMS-Victory-Spurensuche.html https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t5671f1475-William-Turner-quot-The-Victory-From-Quarterdeck-to-Poop-quot.html https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t6980f1475-Turners-Deckszeichnungen-der-Victory-reloaded.html https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t7001f1475-HMS-Victory-nach-Trafalgar-ein-letzter-Zeuge.html You have to subscribe and you will find a "select language" button in the left bottom corner of the window. Automatic translation of course, but it gives the idea. But now back to Bills wonderful build! All the best Daniel
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All perfect sirs 🙂 Just a small explanation: I used the three stripes of 0,4 mm x 1 mm as this is standard material and the 0,4 mm x 3 mm is a special size I will not use too often. And seeing the prizes of Evergreen ... Also to come back to the build barricades on poop and forecastle: I discovered the footer on the instructions: "pictures showing an alternate version ..." The part Bill was asking about is a wooden cover, some planks outside the hammock cranes, protecting them a bit more. This was standard by 1803, when the Vic came out of the repair. Also in this picture the forecastle bulwarks are risen, a detail that was also state of the art in 1803 and is documented nicely in Turners drawings. All the best, Daniel Here is some more detail about it:
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Hello Bill do not worry to ask. But its always better to do like on a place like here as others can participate too - or even give you the right answer already before i find it 🙂 Yes you are right, it is about the thin and larger white lines in between the middle and upper gun deck ports. Easy to be done and with a good effect. Thank you for the question, I now can precise the instructions a bit 🙂 All the best, Daniel
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Thank you sirs for all this ongoing discussion. And you are right. The upper wale is to narrow in the mold so it could/should be enlarged a bit on the bottom and on the top. It also facilitates to fix the preventer chains. As I always try out results of new research there is in the same picture the risen forecastle bulwarks - and also some on the poop deck. I already have several hulls for different purposes floating around, so I sometimes have to combine the tasks. Originally this picture was set for another context in one of the other pages, showing Portsmouth and a possible version of Trafalgar. Sorry if this confused you lot. As the research advances always new hints or even evidences pop up, and I strongly do believe we will never be able to build a "100% accurate" 1805 Victory. So all work on the Vic always will be "state of the research". All instructions are updated from time to time to represent all the feedback that I get from you guys out there and also the my own new enlightments to assure you some good quality modeling time and best results 🙂 All the best, Daniel PS @Ian_Grant Wonderful model!
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Within the next days there will be available the assembly instructions for the resin parts, also including some hints for the painting 🙂 As usual, it got more detailed than planned, but the whole lot for anchors, side entry and the stern is already now 26 pages full of technics and hints, and some more still coming as I have to finish the painting to shoot the fitting pictures 🙂 The german version is almost finished and the translations will come soon afterwards. All the best, DAniel
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Regarding your question on plate 6: It depends how far you feel like going. Best effect for the new hinges is of course if the ports are closed. If opened they officially should be a tad up more then horizontal, so the hinges can be seen clearly but even more the eyebolts. But this also means extra fiddly work. If the lids are up more than 45° - in reality not to be done as for lanyard reasons - then of course no one sees the difference. All the best, Daniel
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Hello Bill, sorry for the delay, I was not in the office for a while. Should be there today and tomorrow and will have a look for your order 🙂 All the best, Daniel
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Just do so 🙂 Same scale as my Vic so you can copy and not too difficult and great effect with the full variety of all needed sizes. Most rope shops have sizes optimized for larger scales. XXXDAn
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Dear Sirs, thank you for all the interesting discussion here and the very nice comments! Did not have too much time lately as for real life purposes, but it was a joy to discover the discussion here. Thank you all for that! Yes it is right. Of course one can leave the brass blank, especially wooden ship builder do this by choice sometimes. But the main reason for the parts are to provide extra or better detail than the kit can offer. When I started the kit some years ago, I had to learn to solder to replace the chains by custom made ones out of brass wire. Time consuming but great effect and well worth it. Actually the second picture that @Ian_Grant shows in #59 are real "hand made" ones, before I did the etch parts. Thanks for showing the old pix, Ian, one nicely sees the difference. But after the first set one only thinks - been there, done that. So laziness from my side was to help developing the etch chains. Let me put it straight: the Heller kit is one of the finest available. In the days it was released - some 50 years+ afaik - it was state of the art. The idea of faking the dead eyes was - seen by those days - magnificent. Only times have changed and we model makers have risen our standards. Also the plastic moulding has limitations as for thicknesses in both ways. Details smaller than 0,5 mm were difficult and thicknesses over 1,5 mm create sink marks. For the missing thickness one can double the material with sheet as shown here nicely with the gun ports. All details smaller than 0,5 mm are a wonderful subject for etch parts. Also in this aspect we have improved a lot. We expect today many details, we did not bother 2 decades ago. And the last thing is that the research is far beyond the knowledge of the days that the kit was created. Side entry or not, stern davits, side davits and knowledge of many other things has changed. So we can take a chance to adjust a bit. If one ever wondered over the strange binnacle displayed by the kit, a matching one was on display in Portsmouth in the 1950ies 😮 So Bill, great start here and to all of you: Have fun and enjoy modeling! All the best, Daniel
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Thank you Sirs 🙂 Once you take a look at the whole thing manned, you immediately see how tight it is inside and out. Seen from above, it's clear that even the diving away under the swifter and running back that some people assume will be somewhat difficult here, and could quickly throw the others out of rhythm. If, while the bars are being inserted, the rest of the crew is heaving the guns over, a smooth work flow is guaranteed while turning. I'm not talking about work safety here but of a smooth rotating flow 🙂 The Swifter was led by a notch at the end of the bars. Whether there was only ever a knot in front and behind the bar or whether it was secured for example by a half hitch I will still find out. Interesting also in the lower perspective. Jumping over the guns wasn't possible there either, the deck beams were only a few centimeters above the heads, and the outer sailors probably have to watch out with the hanging knees anyway ... Here you can see it nicely what I mean, at 0:15 - This action combined with deck beams one would then hear a rhythmic "Klock" when hard wood (sailor's thick head) hits hard wood (deck beams) ... Jumping the gun Simply delightful to see. And for the naval officers in the boats finally a possibility to look unpunished under skirts, as the girls up there come along on the spar ... It remains exciting 🙂 XXXDAn
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The days I have again made some guns, 2 horizontal, two lashed upwards, one with etched parts but unpainted and an old one painted but without etch parts. Then some shipwrights came by and installed a makeshift deck in the aft capstan area. The caulkers came also immediately and left a giant mess with their tow and tar ... I'll spare you the curses of the sailors who had to clear the deck, they were terrible, but afterwards the whole thing looked passable again. Here is shown the area covered by the capstan bars´ radius. And this is where the guns come into play: in their normal position, they are simply in the way of the spars. But stowed lengthwise on the ship's side, it looks much more spill user-friendly. Here in the lashed position with the muzzle on top, without chair and the coin. Here with the barrel in the horizontal position, chair and coin inserted. And just to check: even when run out, it's not enough for a decent bar radius. It remains exciting 🙂 XXXDAn
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@Hubac's Historian For the highlight figures like officers I use more care and putty but also lot of paper as for the frog tails, belts and other stuff. For the common seamen I usually just scratch off all modern items as pockets, watches and zips 🙂 The rest is done by then paint. The plastic is a good one, just like the kit itself, so no problem in putting putty and paint, not like the airfix 1/72 figures that are done in a soft plastic. XXXDAn
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Of course it tickled my fingers and was already overdue, but finally I could slap some colour on the pilasters 🙂 First some ochre, then a bit of heavily thinned ink for the depths and finally some white brushed over it for the heights, and then the whole thing on a black background - oh how cool 😎 This is the area as I did it with the original part of the kit to compare. Also the form of the pilsters now is correct 🙂
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