dafi

To once again contradict all those who think that the printer is the solution to all trying and an easy way to the part ... In the meantime I have converted some of my resin castings into printed parts. The form is just a bit more sharp. Here are the timber heads. And the anchors now have their shape according to Steel and other contemporary sources. The edge between the shaft and arm is sharp by now and not as rounded as in modern sources as AOTS and others. The shaft has the nut in the area of its head, the stock has the matching counterpart. I was particularly taken with the small kegde anchor. It was probably stowed on the aft starboard best bower. With the pin lock and the pin securing line. And a very, very small detail after Steel: The anti-slip device of the shaft. Simply split the end of the arm and bend it open. Can be pressed together again for repair purposes and then again fits through the hole 🙂 Still missing the family pictures of the anchors 🙂 Stowing of the Stream Anchor on the aft port Best Bower. The head of the shaft with its characteristic bevelled corners and the indicated woolings of the rings. And anchor buoys and anchor shoes were also redone. XXXDAn

After this short side walk, I continued on the middle deck.... Now with all parts, so also etching supports for the fall protection. Then with paper strips determining center and left and right edges ... ... aging parts and glueing the coaming in place. Note that the staircase will not fit through the top because of the rabbet, so it must be pulled up from below with thread ... ... flaps inserted ... ... and the thread pulled with surgical precision and ready the open version 🙂 Then closed the flaps, removed the supports and inserted the capstan. Here is the whole thing then finally with my small scaling companion. And in the overview 🙂 All the best, Daniel

Once again the typical Dafinist shift of the scene of crime. Since I know that I soon will need another stern for the Vic, I dared to tackle an issue that I could only solve by clever colouring when I created the last one. But one after the other. Here are the parts of the kit as they fell out of their box. First the courageous cut to separate the lower part, which makes the assembly immensely easier later. Then I filed out the name cartouche and levelled it with a matching sanding block. The wood structure also went to wood-structure-heaven. Then a cut between the profiles above the pilasters ... ... and one below. Then using the chisel to discard of the old pilasters. Then trimmed the profile from the top side ... ... and cut it so deeply from below that it came out in one piece. And everything smoothed out with the small files and the matching sanding blocks 🙂 And then *tata* the new pilasters came out of the hat 🙂 And in situ. Fits 🙂 I also re-pilastered the side galleries. Here the comparison with the originals of the kit. And the parts are so fine that I only saw in the super macro that the volutes of the pilasters had slipped up a bit during the first adjustment, or better saying that the upper volutes had not moved down with the rest when they were shortened ... So I went back to the computer, moved the volutes in the 6 panels and reprinted them ... So, as a little titbit, the following picture. I wanted to know if this resin can be moulded under heat like the cast resin. And I was surprised, a short dip in hot water and you can almost tie a knot in the pilaster ladder. Honestly - I swear! The reason for this action is that the kit parts are getting on in years and have plenty of sink marks in the area of the pilasters that are very difficult to iron out. But admittedly, it also looks nicer. I am already looking forward to do the the painting. This is how it will look like. Ok, and the printer is already running, more pictures soon. XXXDAn

Thank you Thomas 🙂 XXXDAn

Ok, looks a bit better now 🙂 The sailers will be able to pass in between the flaps and do not have to jump them 😉 Now the support fold in the coaming, so that the flaps do not swing down, the plug holes for the iron corner posts of the guardrail, the stairs correctly aligned and good it will be. 🙂 XXXDAn

Why I always make so many test installations and pictures of it? Because sometimes I'm just stupid ... Test fit of the companionway: coaming and stairs - check - fits! Other side ... - check - fits! Other side ... - check - fits! Door flaps inserted, since the companionway is below the radius of the capstan bars ... - check - fiiiiiiiiiiiiiieeeeeeeehhhhhhh... Crap, find the mistake ... GRRRRRRR!!!!! XXXDAn

Hello Raymond, these are Preiser 74090. Heavily modified 🙂 XXXDAn

Thanks for the Likes gentlemen. In the meantime, it has turned out that I have a nice challenge as I had only sketched out all the inner structures at the beginning of furbishing the lower gun deck and was that I was only going by sight ... But as soon as one has to handle reference or chain dimensions, it becomes tricky ... The mast partners and carlings of the main cargo hatch had to be moved several times until they finally fitted. And the deck beam cemented in so tightly that it was too difficult to replace it for a fresh one without scars ... So first I had to define reference points for further work. You can't get in there any more with a caliper or a measuring compass. Therefore, a thin strip of paper with some excess length placed on the beam, one side to the stop and something sharp pressed into the bend edge of the excess on the other side. Thus the respective length was fast determined. Then fold the strip in half and you have the exact center. Put it back on the beam and mark the middle spot. This quickly determines the center line of the deck. Or, as with the hatch, place a piece of paper on top and mark the width with a scalpel. Hatch dimension quickly and accurately determined. Fortunately I was able to clean up the messed deck beams, uffz! Then the sequence of hatches were determined. And also the Brodie stove has finally a prospect of a home 🙂 Then started working my way forward starting at the back capstan. As to be expected, there's a second companionway in the way of the capstan bars. Marking the place of the companionway was useful, when I took it away it turned out that the removed deck stanchions from the lower deck batterie were stored right where the stairs is coming down. So the stanchions were to be turned 90° and placed under the stairs. It's looking better already. XXXDAn

Just bringing it up again. Did anybody have any new encounters with this topic in the meantime? Cheers, Daniel

I'm having a bit of a headache with my bits on the Victory. According to McKay and the Heller kit, the pins are set very tightly there. The forward foremast bit is still manageable, according to AOTS the cross bar has 5 ropes, so some space is left in between for the coils. For the aft foremast bit of the same length, there are 17 pins for 16 ropes. It then looks like this: This is McKay´s belaying sceme from one side to the other (with reference number of the AOTS): 108 Fore Yard Slab line 211 Main Top Gallant Bowline 125 Fore Top Yard reef Tackle Pendant free 148+140 Fore Top Gallant Tye + Fore Top Gallant Halyard 92 Jib Halyard 170 Main Yard Bowline 168 Main Yard Buntline 94 Fore Yard Truss Pendants 168 Main Yard Buntline 170 Main Yard Bowline 91 Jib Stay free 131 Staysail Stay 125 Fore Top Yard reef Tackle Pendant 211 Main Top Gallant Bowline 108 Slab line Fore Yard Can this be true? - Aren´t there too many pins on the cross bar? - Too many ropes that could go somewhere else? Is the bit too narrow? - Should there be less pins and some ropes being attached to same pins? What does Steel say about the dimensions of the bits? Any other advice on bit dimensions and number of belaying points? And therefor: What is the tightest spacing of of the belaying points/pins? Questions about questions ... XXXDAn

Sometimes I am stupid ... I had already described the initial situation a long time ago. The bits of the kit were "a bit" strange in their shape. Thereupon I had fiddled new ones ... ... and because I need some of them for different tasks, I casted them. A complicated mold with two-component silicone putty inlets - top tec [/img] The other day, I noticed that the bits are still pretty low, even though I had my scale mate with me when I took the photos ... ... grrrrr... Here again the summary: Kit Version 1 anno 2016: So consulted the McKay and printed the parts in these dimensions. And since I want to be a model builder, i tinkered around with the printed parts, and got this 🙂 For the belaying pins I made a template to cut to length, with wire feed from the left, and catch basket underneath, goes smooth and quickly and well cut to 6 mm. Then a montage holder with through holes - needed print wise - taped with mirror tape to a wooden stick and filled with the cut offs. The mirror tape actually secures the wire pieces against falling out. After that I leveled the lengths a bit ... ... it looks like this: Then prepared the pin head. White glue in cup 1, water in cup 2 and the mixture in cup 3. And for that the brush does not dry out when the pin is left to dry, it is brought to the right height with a clothes peg so that its tip is in the water. Then the glue is applied in several layers on both sides of the head. The thinner the glue, and the more layers there are, the more uniform the result. So do not make the first layers with a too thick glue-water mixture! And always let it dry befor the next touch up. That's why I use the white glue "express" version, so that work can proceed quickly. In my case it was 6 to 8 layers. When the head has the right size and form, let it dry well and paint it 🙂 Then paint the bit itself with the base color ... ... and keep the holes open. After that I like to put thinned ink in all the inside edges, it adds depth. Next a light wood color on all scuffed edges and finally some white brushing on all outside edges, it just always gives a good look. Then inserted the pins, secured with white glue - which dries transparent - level the top side, bring it to a leveled length on the underneath side where necessary to adjusted the lengths and added the color. And what used to look like this ... ... then becomes like this. So even printed parts need a lot of love and affection from a tender modeler's hand 😉 XXXDAn

I would be very cautious with McKay as these are no contemporary evidence. Also he draws the deck patterns with all planks in approx 6 meters long without respecting the beams underneath. There are some nice contemporary plans like the ones mentioned above or also published by Steel. But I always am tempted to see those as idealized schematic proposals. In the yard they imho had to be sparing with the material, especially in war times. So I believe they never would have cut a plank short just to fit the pattern, especially as the strongest version of building was using as long planks as possible. 🙂 And anyway, I am following since long all excavations available - none of them shows 1:1 all the theory of Steel and others ... XXXDAn

One of the few boats that survived is the one of the Vasa. If I remember well it predates the ship of 1628 by far. One sees a light convexity towards the end, also the inside has a clear direction, also the position otf the mast. Near the stern there are two small posts for the rudder. [img]https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Stockholm/Stockholm-180323_8913.jpg[/img] [img]https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Stockholm/Stockholm-180325_9570.jpg[/img] [img]https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Stockholm/Stockholm-180325_9614.jpg[/img] [img]https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Stockholm/Stockholm-180325_9615.jpg[/img] [img]https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Stockholm/Stockholm-180325_9616.jpg[/img] [img]https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Stockholm/Stockholm-180325_9617.jpg[/img] [img]https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Stockholm/Stockholm-180325_9618.jpg[/img] XXXDAn

Let it do someone professional, they said ... XXXDAn

Just to continue the topic. Achilles from our german forum did build a magnificent Queen Charlotte 1790 in 1:48. Included was of course the double decked pump that could be seen in the drafts shown in the NMM. First the lower deck with the casing on the forward pump going to the middle deck. The aft pump is a classical "one deck" pump. ZAZ0159 And here is the upper part of the forward pump protruding in the middle deck. ZAZ0160 Also nicely to be seen the different openings on the cistern casings to interlock them or give extra discharge possibilities. ZAZ0157 XXXDAn PS: A picture from this truly wonderful model was taken, when I was allowed to make the layout for the cover of Joachim Müllerschön´s (MSW Nickname: Schiffebastler) most interesting book about the Color Blue in historic Shipbuilding 🙂 https://www.amazon.com/colour-blue-historic-shipbuilding-antiquity/dp/3749419884/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=müllerschön&qid=1612969575&sr=8-8

My understanding too is that the single one is the elm tree pump. Often they were fashioned in this octagonal shape, with the hole in the middle. They served as fresh water pumps for multiple purposes. If I can distinguish properly, one of the plans show the Unite with the 4 french pumps that were single wooden tubes with a metal joint in the middle. ZAZ3181 https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/82972.html The decks plan fits to this ZAZ3183 https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/82974.html The deck plan is in this sense strange, as this pump would be to near the bit. Also the fore and aft hols are shown different. ZAZ3184 https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/82975.html This side elevation shows a different pump than usual and a curved pillar. Could this be a hint. I can´t distinguish the front one due to the resolution: ZAZ3182 https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/82973.html XXXDAn

I hope it is ok, to sum up an overview to the remarks from Rob Napier in LEGACY OF A SHIP MODEL Examining HMS PRINCESS ROYAL 1773 Seawatch books https://www.seawatchbooks.com/ItemDisplay.php?sku=110002

Thank you Gary, as usual many great and new input ! My understanding today is, that in our days the Vic in P. is equipped with a pump for two-deckers (third rate) or lesser vessels. As all three-deckers (First and second rate) of that age she should have a setup including one pair pump going to the middle deck as to be seen in the 1788 plans in NMM. Chain pumps: Let me sum up the open questions: - Why not in the two-deckers? Benefits would have been the same. Probably the cranks would be in the way or the whole ensemble too exposed within the waist? It is here where the boats were stowed and sails were handled. - Even though all the hints known to me suggest that the tubes from the lower cistern and the upper cistern were in line, the quality of the drawing still does not satisfy me, as they could contain simplifications. So still looking for the real technical way of working. - What mechanics? Gary mentions the cranks on the lower deck not being used to turn the upper pump. Are there any proves for this or is this still a working thesis? - When and how was the exhaust on the lower cistern used? Every time that that scupper was not submerged to save height and therefor work? Elm tree pumps In my model I still have at the moment the 3 elm tree pumps going up to one deck each. The 1788 deck layouts and the model of HMS Queen suggest that there was one pump ending in the lower deck, two ending in the middle deck and none in the upper deck (in contrast as seen today). Reason could be as it would be exposed to the elements as the waist is open at that space. So I would shorten that long pump on my model. All the best, Daniel

*push* 🙂 As I am working on this topic, I just bring it up again to see, if anybody has new thoughts or even evidences. Let me sum up the thoughts so far. Until approx. 1760 all major ships of the British Navy - First-rate, Sec.-rate, Third-Rate, forth-rate - had a set of 2 pair of chain pumps in the lower gun deck. So far, so good. This is also shown in all standard literature, contemporary and modern ones. Afterwards this setup was only for two-deckers and lesser ships, three-deckers got a new set-up for their chain pumps. In the first step plan showing the inboard profile of three deckers show one of the pair of pumps - mostly the forward pair - extended to the middle deck, showing something like a coq wheel and a turning handle. See NMM 'Sandwich' 1759, 'Barfleur' (1768), 'Princess Royal' (1773). This gives the impression that it was only to provide more manpower and no transport of water. Next step was that in the middle deck got an extra cistern with an exhaust outlet (if the level of details of the drawing show that). This suggests that the water was transported to the middle deck and drained from there. The cisterns in the lower deck all kept their outlets. 'Royal George' (1788); 'Queen Charlotte' (1790) Final step was the full set of two pair of cisterns in both decks all with water outlets. 'Hibernia' repair 1821 The best guessed reasons so far: - more man could man the pump - the water could be discharged by a higher scupper if the ship was heeled in a way that the lower scuppers were submerged.

And here we go again. Short positional test of the guns in interaction with the capstan. Guns run out ... ... stowed ... ... cleared out of the radius of the capstan bars. The next stages of construction will require the missing deck beams. Here is the status. The missing beams give a spaciousness and light that never existed. Beams pre-bent in a template. Supports prepared. Yes, you might be amazed, actually these are parts of the kit 😉 Because of the main mast, no deck beam can be set at this point. Therefor, two strong carling bridge the gap and also give guidance to the mast. But alas, there's my double-deck pump in the way. This mystery, the haunting specter of all plans between 1790 and 1860.*** *** Either the mast does not fit through ... ... or they are too far apart. A quick look at the model of the Princess Royal reveals that the pump cases are built around the carlings, so one inner tube lies to the left and one to the right of the carling. So pump torn out, a through hole was dug into the case, carling fitted. A cotton pad was put as dirt trap underneath and the groove for the carling was carved. And done. XXXDAn

Small intermezzo - gadgets Tweezers fitted with a small angled groove, so I can hold and place my deck pillars angled and canted 45°. My collection of converted wooden clothespins is also growing. And for works within the hull, always put a cotton pad underneath and the dirt gets caught. Also no parts can escape down through companionways if sealed with cotton. And if you need to get things out of obscure corners, the shish kebab with double-sided tape on its tip has proven itself - gets into places that tweezers have never gone before. XXXDan

I always understood that those eyebolts on the outside were a french/continental preference. The english preferred just spikes on the inside for as far as I recall for impermeability and anti-rotting reasons. I remember once reading about a vicious comment about the all those frensh "iron ships". XXXDAn

Thank you! Profiling the coaming: First a slight curvature analogous to the camber, and then the edges rounded. Still tinkered some more gratings, ... [/img] ... and all fitted together. Here in a closed state, ... ... and here open. The whole set open in situ 🙂 Here the slots in the grating for the rudder rope. And closed in situ. XXXDAn

Here still on request as a supplement the hidden stern port from Goodwin's "operating manual".... The other day - about 8 years ago or so - I had the companionway installed next to the capstan. But as is so often found on English ships, there was a companionway just inside the capstan bars´ turning circle. But how was this companionway closed when the capstan was operated? The first thing to notice was that the already made coaming on the model was not complete. As what do you do in such a case? One swings the blade ... ... and builds a new coaming 🙂 Of course, the sharp-eyed observer will not miss the fact that there is a small 90° twist here in coming n#1. So I had to do it again and here it is the new quadruple coaming combination, from left to right: In the first field comes the rope for the tiller cable, then the companionway, a free coaming and the enclosure of the capstan. Today in P. there is a grating underneath the capstan. However, since the contemporary models I know have a solid two-piece wooden plate there, I decided to use one as well. The adjacent panel I have provided with a grating, so there can be a visual and auditory contact between the decks. The companionway here is covered by simply planks. Quick and effective to set up and clear away. Possibly the companionway could also have been covered by a grating. Therefore I covered the field in the direction of the capstan with planks. Or as seen on the Amazon class Frigate model in the NMM SLR0315 https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66276.html a double leaf flap. Very elegant solution. Closed it's good to walk on, open it also serves as a railing and doesn't need to be stowed anywhere else. https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Sammler34/Victory-Spill-210120_6593.jpg Also the flaps can be opened when the capstans bars are fixed. Could this be a way of solving the mystery of how to close the companionway? ... XXXDAn

In one of the posts shown above there is the drawing of William Rivers. He was on Victory from 31-05-1790 to 25-01-1812. Is it known to when dates the drawing? XXXDAn