Jump to content

dafi

Members
  • Posts

    2,372
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dafi

  1. Hello @97Bill, as I am far off having started the yards, I have no idea about the dimensions yet. My guess is 80 cm height, length 100 cm+ and the width 35 cm (65+ with stunsails). @Kelp I used the copper in the exact width and ran them down in long lines, not single plates. A toothpick was great to form the overlap of tiling. And it holds perfect to the date, several years already on there. XXXDAn
  2. The only gun drill on film I know that is quite true is on Master and Commander , especially on the bonus disc. All other ones are not very trustable, the idle members just standing around "bored", also having all the space in the world, as the neighbor crews are missing ... I tried some time ago to give a better impressen onto this topic here: XXXDAn
  3. As there is an ongoing discussion about Victory´s midship section at the very moment, I would like to bring up this topic again, that still puzzles me. And I think others too 😉 I also realised, that I never presented the renderings I did those days trying to understand the possible setup on the Victory in about 1788 to 1805. As said before, a mere guess based upon the available sources. The 3 light brown tubes are the elm tree pumps. For the "long" pump I opted for no cogwheel in the lower deck, therefor no half round hood. All the best, DAniel
  4. Have a look at NMM for plans of other first, second and third rates of that period. All layouts are identical. Just look for the bigger changes in the layout and when they took place. Then you should be able to create a quite accurate and true model :-) For the deck section in front of the main mast, you have a great reference in the 1765 models displayed in NMM. XXXDAn
  5. Dod you consider to show the hammocks in a covered mode? Just a block of balsa or foam in the right dimensions, and some paper handkerchiefs with some PVA applied can do a great job in your scale to represent the canvas cover. Here is a tarred version 🙂 https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66307.html XXXDAn
  6. As I am a very shy and ´umble person, I forgot to present myself 😉 So I looked for a template ... https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Sammler33/Utrecht-170527_3805-(1).jpg ... carved a tiny bit ... https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Sammler33/IMG_1141-(1).jpg ... and here it is the small minni-me 🙂 https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Sammler33/IMG_1147-(1).jpg https://www.mediaharmonists.de/bilder/Sammler33/IMG_1149-(1).jpg Even with my silver medal present 😉
  7. Thank you for the nice comments and likes! Final spurt: Marines approx 1770 onwards Marines approx 1800 onwards Royal Navy Offizier approx 1910 with his Agfa-box-camera ... ... and two sailors.
  8. In our german forum we have a nice collection of fire hearths throughout the centuries. 🙂 https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t4032f643-Kochen-auf-See-Herde-und-Feuerstellen-auf-Schiffen-2.html#msg176014 Note: Registration needed to see the page XXXDAn
  9. Wooden structures on plastic - with me the first thing to be scratched of as long as it is not minimum scale 1:4 🙂 See my Vic, made a great difference. XXXDAn
  10. There are plenty of different scalers. And each gives different results, so one has to try out to find the wanted effect. I use pen scribers, the back of cutter blades - there are different thicknesses - , the back of scalpel tips and scalers from the dental purposes. And use a sttel ruler 🙂 Use each time a blank sheet and try out, sometimes it is scribing, sanding and rescribing 🙂 Another tip: Replace the 3 part section by a fresh sheet from the hobby shop. It is much easier. Take te oriinal decks as template for the outside form, then scribe without having to bother for all the disturbing things on the deck and then just do the openings. Like tis it is easier to scribe and one has not to bother the 2 split-lines. Those always tend to leave traces as the joint react differently to the scribing tool than the rest of the line. XXXDAn
  11. As far as I know this picture was taken about 1880, no spanish flue yet in sight. Boats being hoisted out with the help of the yards. XxXDAn
  12. Just another off topic to the picture in the first post: Have you realized all the people painting the ship? There are two man on top of the davits in question, two are painting the main topmast, two are painting the fore topmast and there were more doing works in the missing parts of the picture 🙂 XXXDAn
  13. Small remark off topic: One can easily identify the area of the impact, as there is the external gangway on the left and the small platform just left of the hole 🙂 XXXDAn
  14. @shipmanHere they are 🙂
  15. These "side"-davits were not present at Trafalgar for sure, the earliest proof I know is about 1860. Even the aft Davits do not show up as evidence before 1824. All contemporary drawings, paintings and plans I know do not show these davits until 1807- The last one without is from Robert Dodd, published in 1807, still with the old beakhead bulkhead. First appearance are on drawings John Christian Schetky 1824 and 1827 and Edward William Cooke 1828. Ever since these are a prominent feature on all following illustrations. The same goes for the stern davits, who first shown up in 1920 if I am not mistaken. But these are my little thought after looking at this detail for a long time already. Take your own conbclusions 😉 XXXDAn PS: Clarkson Stansfield´s "Victory being towed into Gibraltar after Trafalgar" was made after 1857 afaik, so I would not take too much into consideration for the details.
  16. Hourrrrraaaaaaay, pictures are working now. It looks like there was a Rich Text Format among. Do not know why, but ok to know for the next time. Had to reinsert the links in an unformatted form. XXXDAn
  17. Its always great to have friends that keep an open eye and give valuable hints. Special thanks go to @Morgan who helped me so much already and here came his updates. The bolster of the anchor lining was to be extended more to the front. Possibly to have the possibility for someone to stand there if the catting needed an action from there. And the small flap on top of the carronade. Most carronades had ports that were higher than the normal ones. As the solid bulwark was not high enough that was an easy way to protect the wood. Thank you tons Gary! So the bolster needed a good base to adjust the height ... ... and the extension was fitted. With a lil´bit of color it looks like it was already always there. And the flap was an easy Task to be fittet 🙂 And then we took the chance to go and see some modeler mates ... All the best, DAniel For some reasons the pictures do not show ... 😩 😩 😩 [ edit: pictures rescued 🙂 ]
  18. In our german forum we had a nice discussion about the "single bar was 1/3 the maximum beam" . On my Vic it fits perfectly for the lower capstans, but not for those on higher decks as for the curving in of the hull (tumbledome?) as also for the capstans on quarterdecks of frigates with the deck already getting more narrow on top. The conclusion was that the 1/3 beam must have beeb defined by the place and deck the capstan is situated. Here are some thoughts I had some years ago on my Vic Red is the 1/3 beam, the others were variations. The small circles are the stanchions that have to be taken out for the bigger circles of the same color. One can see, that the 1/3 beams works there if the guns are moved. But as the aft capstan was basically worked from the middle deck, these long bars would already touch the hull 😞 XXXDAn
  19. Thank you Gary and druxey. Very nice detail the small flap. Could it also be to protect the bar from the side effects of the shot? Often the ports for the carronades were higher in size for that reason. Also I realised the bolster being extended forward. My interpretation was - as I realisd it mostely underneath gunports - that it would perhaps allow an temporary extension for the board. The step is a great explanation too. I do not think this was for sounding the lead I know it being done out of the channels or another small platform amidship. There too the breaststrap could be fixed more easily that allowed the men to lean against and have the hands free. Difficult to be seen, but the strap is there 🙂 XXXDAn
  20. This is the jack to lift up the deck beams on english ships to remove the pillars as described by Blaise Olivier ... As Commander Data would express: Fully functional 😉 XXXDAn
×
×
  • Create New...