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aviaamator
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aviaamator reacted to captainbob in SS Mariefred by captainbob - 1:96
Thanks Patrick, it was a fun learning experience. So I guess I'm not too old to learn yet.
Bob
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aviaamator reacted to captainbob in SS Mariefred by captainbob - 1:96
Hi All,
I have to move away from research for a while to build a little more. Or I will know everything there is to know about the Mariefred and never build her. The Mariefred is a very early (1903) steel boat. So like Nils (Mirabell61), I had to plate her, rivets and all. Maybe I shouldn’t say so but it was a lot easier that I thought it would be. The main problem is finding the right foil for the job. Most of what I found at the hardware store was too thin and doesn’t look right. There were four or five brands where us non-professionals find what we want. But walking down to the end of the store where the contractors go, I found the heaver foil that is needed. I found an old clock gear that I made into a ponce wheel and with just a little practice . . . here’s the results. I’ll accept it as a first try. Now paint and on to the rest of the boat.
Bob
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aviaamator reacted to captainbob in SS Mariefred by captainbob - 1:96
Thanks to all of you. The curved portion is frequently referred to as an eyebrow. But under the eyebrow there is some sort of carving. That's what I'm looking for.
Bob
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aviaamator reacted to Dan Vadas in SS Mariefred by captainbob - 1:96
Unfortunately Captain Bob passed away before completing his model. He will be missed by all who knew him.
Danny
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aviaamator reacted to captainbob in Block size calculations
Is this what you are looking for?
From "Elements of Mastmaking Sailmaking & Rigging" by David Steel, 1794
Block Length is 8 times the width of swallow.
Block Breadth is 6 times the width of swallow.
Block thickness is 1/2 the length of the block.
Width of Swallow is 1/16" plus 1.1 times the rope diameter.
Sheave thickness is 1.1 times the rope diameter.
Sheave diameter is 5 times the sheave thickness.
Pin diameter is the thickness of the sheave.
Pin hole diameter is 1/10 less than the diameter of the pin.
Double Block thickness at partition is 1/6 less than the breadth of the swallow width.
Bob
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aviaamator reacted to Vinnie in Block basics
Hi there guys. I’m currently working on Mamoli’s HMAV Bounty and I’m reaching the tiller rigging stage. I’m trying to do a quality job and am happy with my progress so far but I’m approaching the rigging stage and don’t want my rigging job to let the model down.... I have several questions that will probably seem really basic to some of the seasoned modelers on here. But I’m struggling to find information or clear answers on the subject.
Firstly is it correct that the thicker rope between the block and the loop that goes through the eyebolt in the illustrated picture on my bounty plans is from a separate smaller rope making it appear to be thicker? Or is it the same rope? Which is the ideal way to do it? Is here any good videos or books that I can download that can show me how to do these kind of basics? I have no shortage of ropes so either way doesn’t bother me...I’m just trying to do it most realistic looking way possible and learn.
Secondly the way the plans are asking me to fix the eyebolt into the the deck seems unusual to me. And I just wanted to clarify that it isn’t another mistake in the plans (which I have noticed a few)
The eyebolt has a width of .5 mm and drilling a 1.5 mm hole in the deck sounds wide to me, even for a folded eyebolt. Just wanted to check that this is common practice.
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aviaamator reacted to JerseyCity Frankie in rigid ratlines
Here’s some photos of me bending on some rat boards on Wavertree two years ago. Note I’m using a Heaver to put each turn on bar tight. This lashing is called a Square Lashing. The wood was, I think, white oak. The lashing material is tarred Marline and as the heaver is applied it’s easy to break the marlin, but if you put it on Just Right the tar will start to squeez out of the fibers. That’s when the turn is on tight enough. When the seizing is complete, that ratboard isn’t going ANYWHERE.
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aviaamator reacted to kpnuts in King George V by kpnuts - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Hi all I was given this and the Bismark for a Christmas pressie from my daughter and son I bought what i thought was the pe for this kit (which cost more than the kit and I now discover is still not the full pe for it, i will buy the rest but just have to wait a bit) so I was thinking I quite like the pics by Eduard and pontos (others are availiable) of the pe on the finished ship with no paint on it and was thinking maybe I would do that with just a slight difference being I would weather the pe but leave it unpainted. What do you all think, I quite like the pe showing I think it adds interest(i know it's not very accurate but let's face it I'm pretty rubbish with this modelling lark and I very seldom build as per the instructions anyway.
So here is my start on this build
Made a start on the decking (Will be using pastels for the decking this is just the base coat.
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aviaamator reacted to Rustyj in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
All I can say is you better stock these kits by the gross!
Looking very good!
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aviaamator reacted to Amalio in HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
A model for the best museums in the world.
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aviaamator reacted to Beef Wellington in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED
Of course everything is looking good! One thing that jumped out at me was the ladders in your earlier post, looks like there are two ladders coming up from lower deck, one port and one starboard, looks to be a very challenging setup to avoid accidents if both sides are being used simulataneously and doesn't seem to leave much headroom space when coming up - do you know if that is a unique French design?
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aviaamator reacted to Chuck in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
Thanks!!!
I never posted how I am going to handle the shifted or bent frames. This is how it will be done. Its basically the same as the traditional frame you saw already where you flip over the pieces for a better fit. BUT....the top timbers are 1/4" thick vs 3/16" thick like the other parts of the frame. You can see the components below. After making so many of these I have found that it is best to glue the two pieces for each side of the frame together first. Note how the top timbers (2-C) are thicker.
Once the tightbond is dried, I dont sand any of the char off yet. But I did remove the alignment tabs to make shaping the shifted top timber easier.
Then I glue some specially prepared templates to the outside edge of the frame showing the bend as shown above. I used rubber cement but anything low tack will work. Then its just a matter of shaping to match the template. I used a sharp #11 blade to just shave away the majority of the wood that needed to be removed. Then I used some 220 grit sandpaper to finish it off nicely. Once done you can remove the template as seen below. Then its just like any other frame where you glue these two parts to the other frame sections.
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aviaamator reacted to Chuck in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I did reach a milestone of sorts. I have completed all seven frames in phase one. The frames will be built and installed in three phases to make it easier to manage. Phase one has seven frames. Once the frames are all done and dry fit in the keel, you can start adding the port framing. The port framing is tricky but manageable. You will be removing the frames quite a bit to tweak them and the slots for the port sills so you can get a good fit. Same is true for the sweep port framing. Once you have the port framing dry fit nicely, then we can glue all the frames in this phase permanently to the keel. Then glue the port framing in too!!!
I havent glued it together yet....but that is the next step. What you see in the photo are all the frames and port sills simply dry fit port and starboard. I will glue it all together after the Connecticut show. Then the frames can be faired outboard...and the alignment tabs you see on the inboard side removed as well...but I get ahead of myself. Then its onto phase two and another seven frames done exactly the same way.
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aviaamator reacted to archjofo in HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
Fantastic work, Albert !
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aviaamator reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
Hello,
finally the etched parts have arrived.
So I made another prototype for the double blocks for the backstays.
The attachment on the channels is shown here with a cross pin.
Whether that is historically provable, I do not know. But I can not do this
find information, neither in the literature nor on the Internet.
Maybe you know a solution for this?
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aviaamator reacted to Kevin Kenny in How Realistic Can One Make Sails?
Has anyone ever used silkspan to make sails. I found this excellent video that suggest this is a good material to use.
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aviaamator reacted to Cathead in How Realistic Can One Make Sails?
Here's a mockup of a sail made panel-by-panel. I liked how my bond-paper sails came out on my longboat build, so decided to use that method again. This mockup is just cheap printer paper, cut into scale 24" strips and glued together along the seams in the pattern shown by the USGS drawing I linked above. The upper one is just a cutout with the seams drawn on; the lower one is the paneled sail. I really like the three-dimensional appearance. The real thing will need to be colored and detailed, but I proved to myself that I could assemble a paper paneled sail here the seams are partially real and not just simulated. Anyone else have thoughts? This took a couple hours to make, not too bad.
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aviaamator reacted to mtaylor in How Realistic Can One Make Sails?
The is an article in the Database here: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-rigging-and-sails.php that might help. If nothing else, it's a starting point. Hubert (Shipmodeling for Dummies) has some excellent methods also.
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aviaamator reacted to Blue Ensign in How Realistic Can One Make Sails?
Silkspan or Modelspan as it seems to be called now is an excellent medium for making sails certainly at smaller scales.
I used it on my French Seventy-four build, and the effect of wind behind the sail is simply achieved using a hair dryer.
There is a technique to forming the sails but all the various strengthening patches along with seams and cringles can be incorporated, and it is both strong and translucent.
B.E.
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aviaamator reacted to Mike Y in Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
Thanks a lot for comments and likes!
Let's make some epoxy mess first:
Plane it:
Sand it:
The result is silky smooth, even before any finish!
After two coats of OSMO Polyx finish, I finally connected all wiring and permanently glued the case in place. There is no way back!
Oh, I also have a model of a ship, need to show it in the build log every now and then, as is tradition:
Now just a bunch of small things are left - install the skirt, carefully plane/sand everything to get rid of any gaps, make holes for light controls, finish sand and refinish everything.
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aviaamator reacted to ChrisLBren in Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
Love it Mike !!!
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aviaamator reacted to Chuck in Pegasus 1776 by Chuck - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop cross-section
I have been swamped with trying to rebuild my inventory before the Connecticut show. But yes I have made some progress but nothing really new. I basically have caught up to where I was on the earlier version. This is where I am at right now. The good news is that I have completed the set up in shop for some serious model building after the show. I am ready to go and have set up an area to take better pictures.....hopefully. Right now everything is kind of thrown onto the same table....as you can see.
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aviaamator reacted to druxey in HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
Thank you, Mark and Mark. (This is getting confusing!) The sketch just above reflects exactly the route I took with Polyphemus. It worked out nicely. As Resolution was a much 'boxier' shape, two pieces were required to fill the triangular gap, as shown.
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