aviaamator

HI ALL
SOME MINOR WORKS HAVE OCCURRED RECENTLY ALTHOUGH NOT AS MUCH AS I WOULD HAVE LIKED.
SHIPS PUMPS ARE DONE......WOODEN PARTS FROM STEAMED PEAR , HANDLE BRACKET FROM BLACKEND BRASS AS IS DISCHARGE PIPE AND STRAPPING BANDS FROM BLACK PAPER.
ALL TEN EQUALLY SPACED HOLES HAVE BEEN DRILLED......THEY NOW NEED SQUARING OFF.
IVE ENCLOSED PHOTOS OFF THE SET UP FOR DRILLING WHICH IS A LITTLE HEATH ROBINSON BUT IT WORKS.
ONCE THE CAPSTAN IS FINISHED IT WILL BE TIME TO START PLANKING INBOARD...IN STEAMED PEAR.
THE PHOTOS SHOW SOME DRAWINGS OF A CAPSTAN AND SHIPS PUMP FROM AOTS ENDEAVOUR WHICH IS OF THE SAME TIME PERIOD AND I USED AS A PRIMARY REFERENCE.
CHEERS FOR NOW....MICK

My experiences are not finished yet, I pushed the limit by adding two 2X extender in the spotting scope assembly.
 
Installation of the first molding
 
The position of the top frames will be final. All the frames are now glued together as a whole,  even if before, many were not glued together by the top spacers. I think I gave the frames enough time to stabilize, with also the stability of the humidity before the spring begins, not really began here, it was minus 15 this morning.
 
The blade profile exist simply because I did it few years ago. The idea for the holder is that it can be hold by both hand. It runs on the top of the plank as in second picture. In fact, I used my biggest vice on the height table. The vice is a secure method to hold the plank. When the molding is done, then the width is cut on the saw.
 
Before the installation of the moldings, a batten was installed as a guide as we have in many other modeler, just like Mark. Even if the line was already traced, the beauty of this batten is that it can be adjusted more precisely before simply because the batten is not glued. Also the batten is in one piece only to assure a smoother curve. Another advantage, the curve is easier to follow with the molding because it can  rest on a existing curve well fixed with clamps. The laser line is also very helpfull it helps to see the regularity of the curve, ad ecerything can be corrected before all is glued. It is much more difficult to install the molding with the correct curve without a guide.

Work proceeds on the starboard wales, with only three planks--the most twisty of all--to go. While the uppermost one is steamed and clamped against the hull waiting to dry, here is an update.
 
I have decided to mock up a single gunport and adjacent wales, to see how I am going to manage controlling the red stain around the port, against the plain external planking and the black wales. Like the black wales, I am concerned about the red stain around the gunports running into the grain of the adjacent planks, and only a test will tell me.
 
I did have a little more success using the Transtint black dye mixed into the urethane clear finish. Rather than dealing with a watery liquid like shoe dye or ink, this allows me to pad on a tinted gel. And it has the same level of matt as the uncolored finish. 
 
I will also experiment with airbrushing the blue acrylic paint onto the stem, and also onto the upper works where the friezes will go. That should help me keep a clean line. I am thinking about ordering the Caldercraft Admiralty paint "French Blue", unless someone has had a bad experience with this paint, or thinks it is not the right color. They are supposed to match the colors around Nelson's time, which is almost a half century after the Bellona; I can only assume the blue color would not have changed, for lack of any further evidence. I have only the second Bellona model to go on, for a match.
 
Mark
 

Thank you, Amalio, for your kind thoughts. I have mostly learned from books and especially from the great modellers on this site. And a lot of mistakes!
 
I am having to carve/shape the last two planks, and while taking a break from this, I looked more carefully at where paint/stain will meet edges and surfaces around the gunports. I have drawn a little sketch to think this through. I was surprised to see that the red paint comes over the top of the spirketting, meeting the black of the spirketting on a scribed line; and where the wales cross the last two gunports, I will have the black of the wales meeting the red of the gunport on the edge between the two, on the same piece of wood. And, the edges of the clear outboard planking will meet red paint on their outside corners at the edge of the port. These are the real test points of whether stain will work, or whether I need to edge these points with paint matched to the red stain elsewhere. Now I know what my test pieces need to look like.
 
Mark
 
 

Hi Mark. Nice job sir and I must say your  drawing our outstanding. Mine comes out looking like a first grader in art class. Keep up the good work sir. Gary

Thanks, Gary, for the comments. It is kind of hard to realize now, but I learned to draw before CAD was invented or at least used in architecture offices. I am a dinosaur! Gaetan, I haven't checked my family tree lately....🙂
 
It took pretty much all day, but I got the second to last plank in on the wales. It has a very sharp twist athwartships, and a good bend aft. I could not get a clamp on the end for love or money to steam it to shape. And I could not imagine a former that would deal with the springback accurately. So I fayed a double wedge shaped piece onto the inner surface, fitted it to the hull surface, and sanded down the outer surface to parallel. The join is on the under surface of the wale, where hopefully no one will ever look and the black stain will cover it (as long as none of you give away the secret).
 
The final piece is even worse, and I can't visualize yet exactly how it lands and what its aft edge looks like. The second Bellona model shows a sharp corner at the lower, aftmost edge (see photo), but the sheer drawing shows it gracefully rounded. I will put a big block against the location tomorrow and start carving until it looks right.
 
Mark
 
 

Hi all. Recently, after finishing my miniature model of "Dorade" I started on my new model, a 1/192 scale model of the 54m long schooner "Ingomar". Built in 1903 and designed by Nathaniel Herreshoff, Ingomar was one of the fastest and most successful racing schooners of its day. Such is the beauty of this boat, that it has been recreated now by Graafships; the only problem being that the person funding the project, unfortunately ran out of money and only the hull has been built. The hull is currently for sale. Hopefully someone rich enough will buy the hull and complete the project; thereby creating a modern full size version of this beautiful ship. Any rich people out there?
 
Anyhow, back to my model! Given the small size of the hull (13 cms approx), I agonised about what sort of material the hull should be built from. Whatever I chose had to be structurally strong enough to be cut into small enough strips to simulate the frames, etc. Also, the fact that the full sized ship was steel framed, basically meant that I couldn't use wood. Much to my distaste, I reluctantly settled on plasticard to build the keel and hull! I've always shied away from plasticard, but this time, it was the only logical choice. I will paint the hull's frames and keel later to make it look like it authentic.
 
The hull will be built with as much of the internal accommodation as possible installed in the hull and visible through large cutaways of the hull and exposed deck beams.
 
I hope you enjoy the photos. More photos will follow as work progresses.

Only very brave people could fly these planes! Class work!

The covering so far just to give an idea
 
 

The rope doesn't look very good, Alas...

Anchor, until only experimental. If you do not like me , then make out of steel.

For some time he was not engaged in the construction of the model, because it is impossible to remain indifferent when people die in the fire, small children... There are no more words, only work helps to distract a little from this tragedy. I wish everyone good health!!!

I offer my deepest condolences to the families of the lost hockey players, as well as to all of Canada...My youngest son is riding on the ice, and his skating is the inscription: Ottawa...   

Anchor, until only experimental. If you do not like me , then make out of steel.

I've slightly changed the way anchor parts are assembled. And another thing: today I went to work after the holidays!!! Bored!

Anchor, until only experimental. If you do not like me , then make out of steel.

I offer my deepest condolences to the families of the lost hockey players, as well as to all of Canada...My youngest son is riding on the ice, and his skating is the inscription: Ottawa...   

Anchor, until only experimental. If you do not like me , then make out of steel.

For some time he was not engaged in the construction of the model, because it is impossible to remain indifferent when people die in the fire, small children... There are no more words, only work helps to distract a little from this tragedy. I wish everyone good health!!!

I continue locksmith work...

A little more, a little more...

A little more..

Continue to work on a gun carriage carronade... Not an easy task, but I chose this hobby for myself!

Dear friends! I've been pondering how to present the figurehead in the form of a snake, and stopped on this variant! I like it! Scales are manufactured with the help of a nozzle on a soldering iron. This detail in the photo for the experiment, not for installation on the ship.

Jung develops milling equipments, he says: -" Dad! Let me try!"  Earlier it was afraid of this machine, and lathe, and boring mastered much earlier! That's my boy!