Izzy Madd

Well, After many hours nay weeks of wracking my brains and even a few seconds thinking about it. I've finally found out what the last model I made 35 years ago. I felt it was but I've just seen the exact same model up for sale still untouched. Sadly I think I've got enough for now but here it is. And for those observant enough to recognise her it is... Yes. Nothing less than the good old Vicky. I think it must be some sort of record though. As I never finished it back then and now I'm about to start. Well working up to it. All over again so if this take me say five years that forty years from start to finish one model... And back then if you didn't have to go forward to dozen pages to find out exactly where something perhaps should be you had put it in the wrong place. So don't complain about instructions today. It's far to simple. I don't like being rushed

Don't know if you can get it but I've found "french's mustard" work great as does liver of sulphur. Liquid is best and lasts a bit longer but more expensive. And they all stink which can be bad for you if breathed in for too long so best done outside.

Looking at the picture Nenad. If you got a short length of copper wire hammered the end flat then curled the ends and bent the wire into a U shape then soldered. The trim down when it's all solid and bigger to hold? If you need I can supply images.

Not quite sure what you are making? But again cut three strand and tape, twist even solder far ends together. Then open them out to the exact position you want then tape all to the table and solder in one go nothing move and less to remove with the file as most is cut off. Hope this helps. Best wishes Izzy

Great to have you back on here at your own pace. Take care and war, welcomes. If it's any help I've found if soldering parts like this repeat her than doing two separate part make a "U" shaped piece then you can solder both at once without needing to hold three things then trim to right size after. Also I found washing soldered parts under the hottest water possible 70-80 degree C straight away washes the flux of with out scrubbing and save corrosion. Welcome back my friend

I know this isn't about "Wooden Willy" but it is about vintage wood kits. Now I know way back when kits were a little more basic than today and you had to guess or discover a lot about what and how things should be but these pictures below are taking the Mickey. And these represent the entire contents... It makes billing look positively generous and molly coddling. What's the next one down a log and a penknife. And the one below that an acorn...

Great to see you back my friend. Small steps taken slowly. Still reach your goal. Don't rush into anything yet but so long as you move along you are not being overwhelmed by the past. Pleased to hear your getting time in the fresh air and sun. Especially with those special memories. Wonderful to hear from you. Take care of yourself.

Hi, I've just been looking at McKays large scale drawings and noticed that the messenger attaches to the capstan at the top.? I'm sure your super accurate and I just wondered why you went for the other way. Which you said worked great. Just wondering which source was used as reference?

I only "like your words because it marks, however brief, your return. Your presence has been missed in many ways. But always with understanding. I'm glad to hear you are all able to shoulder this incredible burden. But don't dismiss sadness as a weakness as it is as needed as copeing. However long you need to regain some sort of order back is never too long. As you will always be welcomed back with glad heart and open arms. Don't over do the self therapy. And loose yourself in the process. As with all thing my friend, moderation. And don't dismiss those places and things you shared. As that is how she will remain with you all. In your hearts. As someone not forgotten is never truly gone. Just not quite so close. The days and weeks ahead will be rough for all. But you will come through the other side. And while it's wonderful to hear from you. I'm sure in time you'll return as a regular steadying comrade in arms as it were. And you have a beautiful song to treasure along with all the good times. Least of which were the coming of your two children, who will be able to pick you up if you stumble upon this hardest of roads. The flags will raise tonight in honour of your return and in memory of your loss. Return soon my friend. But in your own time. And in your own way.

No problem as regards Wills past any thing else I can tell you just ask. It's my first wood build but as a veteran woodchuck I'm loving it. I'm also doing the Cutty sark 1/350, in plastic, for a bit of fun. And Cutty Sark in 1/130 in plastic at the same time. It makes it more interesting... That's as well as developing a new caulking medium. And re inventing a lost varnish. That I was assured could only be made using liquid nitrogen and or the assorted concoctions. Up to now I've made enough to make four litres when mixed. It's a dry powder. And the only chemical I've used is elbow grease. That's what education does for you. Oh and if you want the sails the correct red shade as they always were. It used to be done with fish oil, red oxide and urine... Nowadays they use red oxide and linseed oil. But if you don't mind taking the p**s by all means use the original recipe. And here's hopeing you only get the sort of fires you put a nice big juicy steak on.

Ahoy there, It's the weekend again and what would it be without a whacky weekend quiz. No I don't means what is a tatting shuttle. I mean look at the anti quainter image below. It's in B&W on purpose you'll see why next time. On the left is the improved version. On the right is the horrible Billing version. So the question is which looks better and anyone who says they look the same will end up like Cap'n Flint. Oven ready... And to save you suffering as what the difference is... And in case your wondering that at the top is a tasting shuttle. And yes the one right is the left one and the rope is real not plastic. The turnaround is curtesy of Apple. And unless you want to end up like Bonney here I suggest you don't give me any snide remarks either

I think the main reason for "Will" being used is the fact that it was one of the last four made for Everads transport. All named after members of the family. Sadly Enid ends up stuck on the sands a Dunkirk. While Will made it back. But also in the late seventies it was bought by OCL which was then taken over by P&O. But also had what was called the most beatuiful barge captain a young lady who still part owns it in her own right now. An if you go online you can have a virtual tour. It's a lot different to when OCL first bought it as that's when we first met as it were a friend who worked for OCL obtained two new family members that day so that me and my mother could spend the day on one of the few still remaining. And it was a typical British summers day. Cold wet and raining. And all they had for seating was long HARD benches and not enough of them. One feature may not discover as I'm one of the few left to know but OCL wanted to rename it along with three others it intended to get. They were all going to be named along the lines of Luggit, Tuggit, Haulit and I've never been able to remember the fourth. But Lady Luck stepped in and it stayed renamed "Will" as part of the last sale agreement.great little boats and right on the cutting edge of there technology. So much so that the captains would wrap chains around the outside of the hull so as to stop loose cargoes shifting and splitting them wide open as they only had one skin on them so as they could carry more. And the deck level would be lower than the sea level. Hence the raised cargo hatches.

Quick question Has anyone one on here ever tried using a "tatting" shuttle for rigging?

Hi, I don't know if your aware or if it would make any difference. But John McKay's book has several alterations especially in the galley area. A steam trunk is added and the magazine forward has been altered. Also I've never seen the quarter da it's mentioned before. And as they are such a large external feature they would easily be noticed if not included.

Thanks as I say it's just a concept at the moment but as I would need so many for my other builds I'll be able to see if it's viable in bulk.

Another day goes by. And another day this community remains in mourning for your loss. And another day the flags remain in salute of those not here. Your pain is shared by many but sadly it is unable to lessen it. Take stength from each other my friend, you your son and daughter. But know also to take strength from the feelings of an entire global community that has no borders. Just feelings. Until your return.

So say 25p each would be about right then... Only there only costing me 2.75p to make.

Has anyone any suggestions as to what I can use to replace these hideous life belts Billing give you? And by suggestions I mean ones you tell the vicar. Please.

Several seeds and a plant pot, plus a pen knife. And a lot of time learning how to use the wood that will eventually grow from the seeds...

I've found after many years dealing with slow witted apprentices that K.I.S.S(keep it simple, stupid) works best. So I just used to tell them "keep the soft fleshy bits away from the hard sharp bits. Works for any tool especially the thick ones...

As regards stropping and whipping and a lot of other parts "Ashley's book of knots" spelling may be wrong but it's free if you look around the web. But this is the ultimate bible of knots even now. And contains every knot you'll ever hear of never mind use. Also it's from the 50's so is relive the to the way sailing knot work was done. But I'd suggest getting some cordage about two or three metres. And make the knots splices and whippings full size so you know what your trying to recreate. And same as with the stropping of blocks actually test the strength of the joint as what can seem weak will tighten and vica versa. As well as going overhand as opposed to underhand can make a lot of difference even on scale models. Just whipping an eye loop looks terribly weak but just by wrapping thin cord around a doubled rope four times its width can hold incredibly well. Yes the originals were also stitched through as part of the whipping. But you'll be or I would adding PVA/ water mix to hold it all. I'd also suggest adding a drop or two of liquid soap as this aids the penetration. And I'd mix the two 4 part glue to 1 part water. And it's wired as it makes it dry dull and harder. But almost as strong because it gets into the fibres. Some say use CA for me this is a disaster waiting to happen. As firstly if there's any nylon polyester or such in the lines they will begin to melt and weaken the thread so leading to potential snapping. Secondly the line goes rigid and this causes two problems sooner or later. If the line is not in its final position you've then got a rigid line pointing the wrong way. And a rigid line snaps not bends. Thirdly. Sorry to go on but I've seen some awful rope work on what is a beautiful job all because people want a quick job. Thirdly the thread will wick the CA probably as much as 20mm easy. And this makes the thread change colour compared to the rest and the previous issues. Fourthly if the glue gets on wood or plastic fitting, not sure what you are using. With wood same as the thread it will soak in changing it and plastic melts. Fifthly PVA and water can be dissolved with neat Dettol if you put a line in wrong. IMO. And dries within 20seconds so not much longer than CA. So for what it's worth avoid CA in my opinion.