Gaetan Bordeleau

I recently hurt my leg so, I will not be working very much on the model for a while
 
I began this actual model in 2017 and I use Lightroom as a catalogue for  the photos. Up to this day, over 3250 photos are classified  in files. I have selected 12 photos representing my vision of this model through light variations in photography. After selecting these photos, it is clear that most of the photos were taken inside the model ship of a 74 guns at 1/24 scale. This model, is the fourth one of this series. Each model had different goals.
 
One goal, for this model is to try to photograph inside all the decks at the same time and if possible to have a good level of lighting at each deck. To get there, the deck planking is as far as possible: absent, so that more light can go through.
 
3 types of cameras were used: camera, action camera and phone camera. For the photos inside the model, the action camera works best and sometime, when I get lucky, the phone camera gives good results, but I rarely use the camera phone. 
 
What would be the best advice I could give to an aspiring photographer? Light is always the first thing to check. there are also 2 other things that I always take great care:
 
First, I always photograph as close as possible to the same height of the object. By example, if I take a photo of the outside model, I will position the camera at the same height of the model or even lower sometimes. At the contrary, if I take a photo at a much higher position than the model, it will look like more like a toy.
 
Second, I always check so that the camera is parallel with the horizon. These simple 2 advices will get more realistic photos simply because it will be as if the photo was taken at the same height as the human eye. It is never interesting for the eye to see a model which is not parallel with the horizon.
 
 

I recently hurt my leg so, I will not be working very much on the model for a while
 
I began this actual model in 2017 and I use Lightroom as a catalogue for  the photos. Up to this day, over 3250 photos are classified  in files. I have selected 12 photos representing my vision of this model through light variations in photography. After selecting these photos, it is clear that most of the photos were taken inside the model ship of a 74 guns at 1/24 scale. This model, is the fourth one of this series. Each model had different goals.
 
One goal, for this model is to try to photograph inside all the decks at the same time and if possible to have a good level of lighting at each deck. To get there, the deck planking is as far as possible: absent, so that more light can go through.
 
3 types of cameras were used: camera, action camera and phone camera. For the photos inside the model, the action camera works best and sometime, when I get lucky, the phone camera gives good results, but I rarely use the camera phone. 
 
What would be the best advice I could give to an aspiring photographer? Light is always the first thing to check. there are also 2 other things that I always take great care:
 
First, I always photograph as close as possible to the same height of the object. By example, if I take a photo of the outside model, I will position the camera at the same height of the model or even lower sometimes. At the contrary, if I take a photo at a much higher position than the model, it will look like more like a toy.
 
Second, I always check so that the camera is parallel with the horizon. These simple 2 advices will get more realistic photos simply because it will be as if the photo was taken at the same height as the human eye. It is never interesting for the eye to see a model which is not parallel with the horizon.
 
 

This morning, I tried to understand WB in less than a page:

This morning, I tried to understand WB in less than a page:

This morning, I tried to understand WB in less than a page:

This morning, I tried to understand WB in less than a page:

Thank you guys for your inputs.
 
Yellow cedar, may be I could get from British Columbia, it would be expensive to ship in Quebec but the look of the grain is interesting
 
Maple, very easy to get here in Quebec. I think I would need to get lucky  to get a nice batch. The problem is the large spacing between each year which I think is larger than cherry. In comparison sanding maple and cherry are 2 different world.
 
We have 3 different opinions and cherry is in everyone list. I remember very well in 2013, I did participate in a kind of contest for model ship builders. Here is what a judge wrote about cherry: ''The biggest issue with this model was the choice of wood used. In many cases, the grain appeared out of scale.  Reading the rest of his comments, it was  very clear that it was impossible to satisfy this gentleman; but he was not completely wrong. If I had 1 question for him; it would have been: if cherry was wrong, then which wood would have been right?
 
Exactly as Chuck and Jaager previously wrote, we must  carefully select the boards we are going to use.  
 
Here is an example of cherry wood enhanced with tung oil. Although I am probably more selective today, and I could  even get a step higher in the quality control to select ''the perfect look wood'',  all along the cutting procedure from a 2  by 12 inches up to few millimeters thick. 
 
 

This morning, I tried to understand WB in less than a page:

This morning, I tried to understand WB in less than a page:

My surface grinder and my Hardinge lathe run on 3 phases... and I have only 2 phases.
 
The third phases that also runs on 240 volts is supplied  by a motor, through a rotary phase converter.

Yes Sir, this is how it should be made!
 

Thank you Jorge,
 
I know that photography is not very popular but it does not mean that I cannot try some experiences with light.

My surface grinder and my Hardinge lathe run on 3 phases... and I have only 2 phases.
 
The third phases that also runs on 240 volts is supplied  by a motor, through a rotary phase converter.

My surface grinder and my Hardinge lathe run on 3 phases... and I have only 2 phases.
 
The third phases that also runs on 240 volts is supplied  by a motor, through a rotary phase converter.

Yes Sir, this is how it should be made!
 

My surface grinder and my Hardinge lathe run on 3 phases... and I have only 2 phases.
 
The third phases that also runs on 240 volts is supplied  by a motor, through a rotary phase converter.

I have 2 mills, 1 on the table and 1 on the floor. Also 1 drill press on the table because most of the small mills do not have the handle to make it as well a mill and a drill press. Proxxon has 1 model but it is expensive. The floor model serves as a mill and as a drill press.
 
Does a table model is essential for a model ship maker, of course the answer is no. The work can also be done by hand on wood but it is fun to work with a small mill and this tool can be more accurate than a knife.
 
I rarely use the table mill, may be 1 time  every few months. On the other end, I use the floor model every week. I use the mill more often than the lathe. I bought my first lathe and mill about 30 years ago and never regret it. 
 
Like the table mill, the floor mill will ease the work you can do on metal and it will do it better than if it is done by hand. Especially with metal, the work will be done I do not know, 50 or 100 time faster, because cutting and filing metal by hand... you get tired very fast.
 
The table mill can do work on metal and the main difference with a larger one is the quantity it will remove in 1 pass.  With the table mill, you will remove 1 or few thousands at the time and with the larger ones, it can be anywhere from 10 to 100 time faster.
 
If you never intend to build some parts in metal, a floor model will never be necessary. A table mill is a nice tool  and fun to use for a model ship enthusiastic. It will be use as much for wood and metal and as any other tool, it will facilitate your work and it will help precision to assembly some parts  in less time.
 
 

I have 2 mills, 1 on the table and 1 on the floor. Also 1 drill press on the table because most of the small mills do not have the handle to make it as well a mill and a drill press. Proxxon has 1 model but it is expensive. The floor model serves as a mill and as a drill press.
 
Does a table model is essential for a model ship maker, of course the answer is no. The work can also be done by hand on wood but it is fun to work with a small mill and this tool can be more accurate than a knife.
 
I rarely use the table mill, may be 1 time  every few months. On the other end, I use the floor model every week. I use the mill more often than the lathe. I bought my first lathe and mill about 30 years ago and never regret it. 
 
Like the table mill, the floor mill will ease the work you can do on metal and it will do it better than if it is done by hand. Especially with metal, the work will be done I do not know, 50 or 100 time faster, because cutting and filing metal by hand... you get tired very fast.
 
The table mill can do work on metal and the main difference with a larger one is the quantity it will remove in 1 pass.  With the table mill, you will remove 1 or few thousands at the time and with the larger ones, it can be anywhere from 10 to 100 time faster.
 
If you never intend to build some parts in metal, a floor model will never be necessary. A table mill is a nice tool  and fun to use for a model ship enthusiastic. It will be use as much for wood and metal and as any other tool, it will facilitate your work and it will help precision to assembly some parts  in less time.
 
 

I have 2 mills, 1 on the table and 1 on the floor. Also 1 drill press on the table because most of the small mills do not have the handle to make it as well a mill and a drill press. Proxxon has 1 model but it is expensive. The floor model serves as a mill and as a drill press.
 
Does a table model is essential for a model ship maker, of course the answer is no. The work can also be done by hand on wood but it is fun to work with a small mill and this tool can be more accurate than a knife.
 
I rarely use the table mill, may be 1 time  every few months. On the other end, I use the floor model every week. I use the mill more often than the lathe. I bought my first lathe and mill about 30 years ago and never regret it. 
 
Like the table mill, the floor mill will ease the work you can do on metal and it will do it better than if it is done by hand. Especially with metal, the work will be done I do not know, 50 or 100 time faster, because cutting and filing metal by hand... you get tired very fast.
 
The table mill can do work on metal and the main difference with a larger one is the quantity it will remove in 1 pass.  With the table mill, you will remove 1 or few thousands at the time and with the larger ones, it can be anywhere from 10 to 100 time faster.
 
If you never intend to build some parts in metal, a floor model will never be necessary. A table mill is a nice tool  and fun to use for a model ship enthusiastic. It will be use as much for wood and metal and as any other tool, it will facilitate your work and it will help precision to assembly some parts  in less time.
 
 

I have 2 mills, 1 on the table and 1 on the floor. Also 1 drill press on the table because most of the small mills do not have the handle to make it as well a mill and a drill press. Proxxon has 1 model but it is expensive. The floor model serves as a mill and as a drill press.
 
Does a table model is essential for a model ship maker, of course the answer is no. The work can also be done by hand on wood but it is fun to work with a small mill and this tool can be more accurate than a knife.
 
I rarely use the table mill, may be 1 time  every few months. On the other end, I use the floor model every week. I use the mill more often than the lathe. I bought my first lathe and mill about 30 years ago and never regret it. 
 
Like the table mill, the floor mill will ease the work you can do on metal and it will do it better than if it is done by hand. Especially with metal, the work will be done I do not know, 50 or 100 time faster, because cutting and filing metal by hand... you get tired very fast.
 
The table mill can do work on metal and the main difference with a larger one is the quantity it will remove in 1 pass.  With the table mill, you will remove 1 or few thousands at the time and with the larger ones, it can be anywhere from 10 to 100 time faster.
 
If you never intend to build some parts in metal, a floor model will never be necessary. A table mill is a nice tool  and fun to use for a model ship enthusiastic. It will be use as much for wood and metal and as any other tool, it will facilitate your work and it will help precision to assembly some parts  in less time.
 
 

Thank you Jorge,
 
I know that photography is not very popular but it does not mean that I cannot try some experiences with light.

I have 2 mills, 1 on the table and 1 on the floor. Also 1 drill press on the table because most of the small mills do not have the handle to make it as well a mill and a drill press. Proxxon has 1 model but it is expensive. The floor model serves as a mill and as a drill press.
 
Does a table model is essential for a model ship maker, of course the answer is no. The work can also be done by hand on wood but it is fun to work with a small mill and this tool can be more accurate than a knife.
 
I rarely use the table mill, may be 1 time  every few months. On the other end, I use the floor model every week. I use the mill more often than the lathe. I bought my first lathe and mill about 30 years ago and never regret it. 
 
Like the table mill, the floor mill will ease the work you can do on metal and it will do it better than if it is done by hand. Especially with metal, the work will be done I do not know, 50 or 100 time faster, because cutting and filing metal by hand... you get tired very fast.
 
The table mill can do work on metal and the main difference with a larger one is the quantity it will remove in 1 pass.  With the table mill, you will remove 1 or few thousands at the time and with the larger ones, it can be anywhere from 10 to 100 time faster.
 
If you never intend to build some parts in metal, a floor model will never be necessary. A table mill is a nice tool  and fun to use for a model ship enthusiastic. It will be use as much for wood and metal and as any other tool, it will facilitate your work and it will help precision to assembly some parts  in less time.
 
 

Hi Mark,
 
Carving is a fascinating subject and you are doing good. The more you try it, the more you gain confidence and the better are the results.
 
As for Tung oil, I have a good idea why it is popular because I have been using it for years and here are some reasons:
 
-Tung oil is clear of debris in comparison with linseed oil by example
-Easy to apply and then you rub the excess
-Applied by thin coats, one is usually enough
-No strong odors, non sticky
-Instantly give 100 years to the look of the wood
-The wood grain is highlighted by using this oil
-Easy to photograph, no shiny effect like shellac by example

Hi Mark,
 
Carving is a fascinating subject and you are doing good. The more you try it, the more you gain confidence and the better are the results.
 
As for Tung oil, I have a good idea why it is popular because I have been using it for years and here are some reasons:
 
-Tung oil is clear of debris in comparison with linseed oil by example
-Easy to apply and then you rub the excess
-Applied by thin coats, one is usually enough
-No strong odors, non sticky
-Instantly give 100 years to the look of the wood
-The wood grain is highlighted by using this oil
-Easy to photograph, no shiny effect like shellac by example

Hi Mark,
 
Carving is a fascinating subject and you are doing good. The more you try it, the more you gain confidence and the better are the results.
 
As for Tung oil, I have a good idea why it is popular because I have been using it for years and here are some reasons:
 
-Tung oil is clear of debris in comparison with linseed oil by example
-Easy to apply and then you rub the excess
-Applied by thin coats, one is usually enough
-No strong odors, non sticky
-Instantly give 100 years to the look of the wood
-The wood grain is highlighted by using this oil
-Easy to photograph, no shiny effect like shellac by example