Roger Pellett

I just stumbled on to this; an interesting project that I’m looking forward to seeing nicely done.
 
The US Navy had some specialized and interesting small boats outfitted to service their fleet of flying boats while still in the water.  If you look in their 1955/1954? Boat Book you will find drawings of these craft.  One could make a great companion to your model. A copy of their Boat Can be found on the Navy’s history site.  Or Google Navy Aircraft Refueling Boat
 
Roger
 
 

Don’t quote me on this as I’m really no expert, but I don’t know of any amphibious aircraft that are fully capable of landing on the open ocean in anything more than almost calm conditions.
 
From what I’ve read, a seaplane is a catch all term for any type of water capable airplane. A flying boat is a seaplane in which the fuselage is boat shaped and provides the primary floatation. A float plane being the other option.
 
Andy

Today was the day when the modelling gods decided I needed a good poking. 
 
I soaked the paper for the wet palette and soaked the sponge. Added BBs to the paint and got a good consistency. New brushes at hand and ready to go.
I picked up the daffadar in the universal clamp and had a brushful of yellow paint poised and, to my horror, the figure fell out of the clamp. I guess I didn't clamp the base tight enough.
The day being what it was the daffadar landed on the Nabopolassar figure which was lurking on the bench. Both heads detached and the soldiers base fell off. 
No obvious damage and the pieces were glued back in place but that shut down any painting plans for the morning. I turned my attention to removing the masking from my Flower Corvette and found that paint had seeped through the masks EVERYWHERE. I've never had a result as bad as this.
Maybe stuffing teddies isn't a bad idea after all.
Alan

I do not know if Dutch kids better behave then American kids, but that is the risk one has to take who build a Cannon.
Constant

Our local Solid Waste Disposal Site, aka “The Dump” has a large section where visitors can take away items thrown away by others.  The stuff is free.  They have one entire building full of furniture.   Next time I go there I’ll have to see if I can find any mahogany.  It’s probably all veneer but Duluth does have a large number of old very large homes, once residences to wealthy families, so maybe I’ll strike gold.
 
Roger

If you have already done so, I highly recommend that you get or borrow a copy of the book Coffins of the Brave.  Edited by Kevin Crisman it includes chapters on the archeological evidence from each of the wrecked American and British warships found on the Great Lakes and Lake Champlain.  In most cases he includes drawings reconstructed from this evidence.  You should be able to borrow a copy via inter-library loan as I found half a dozen via WorldCat in Colorado libraries.  The University of Denver has a copy.
 
The value of this book is that it includes information on many smaller ships built in a frontier setting.  While the bows always seem to be missing from the wreckage there are a couple of examples where remnants of cant frames exist.
 
Roger 

I don’t know what your artistic vision is for this model but if it is to accurately show hull structure, framing, deck beams, etc. I’m sure that you realize that the vessels built to defend the American Lakes were not built to British dockyard standards.  I have read that Noah Brown was told by one of the naval commanders that Lake vessels only needed to be capable of winning one battle. For example, Brown sandwiched Eagle’s deck beams between two deck clamps and omitted all knees.  As a consequence Eagle was built in a few weeks and was able to take part in the battle to prevent the British from invading via Lake Champlain.
 
Cant frames should be as simple as possible.  Also, Noah Brown had no need to conserve lumber.  Another possibility would be to “ghost” this unknown area.  This could be done by substituting a different construction technique; even a solid shaped block.
 
These are suggestions offered because you are still in the design stage.  In the end, it’s your model of an interesting subject.
 
Roger

An interesting project, well done!
 
Since this will be on public display just hope that kids don’t sneak in and try to shoot this thing!😀😀  But then Dutch kids are probably better behaved then American ones.
 
Roger

in reading MSW build logs for kit built models I find that builders often get concerned with details.  This seems to be especially true with rigging.  Almost never does the builder seem to be concerned with what should be the question to be asked before buying the kit in the first place:
 
”If I build this kit will it accurately reproduce the lines (shape) of the actual vessel’s hull?”
 
In the past, some kit manufacturers were, putting it politely, “casual” concerning this.  This could be particularly true of Clippers as overlooked subtle differences between different vessels could still allow models of different ships to both look impressive. There was also a tendency by manufacturers to save money by widely spacing bulkheads, supposedly solved by the ubiquitous double planking.
 
The manufacturers of POB ship model kits seem to have upped their game in the past few years and several offer kits that can produce accurate and stunning models.  I would, therefore, be cautious about buying an old kit.  
 
Many kit builders also have a stash of kits that they intend to build someday. These stashes can represent many lifetimes of ship model building.  My stash is not ship model kits but books. I have shelves of books for researching projects that I was once excited about building but now realize won’t get built.
 
My advice to you: Finish the project(s) that you are now working on, and take satisfaction on jobs well done.  Then decide what you want to build based on skills and interests at that time.  Meanwhile save your £100.
 
Roger

Some different advice:
 
Assuming that you have access to a basic collection of hand tools and know how to use them, your first model should be the one that you really want to build; kit or scratch it really doesn’t matter.  Plodding thru a beginner kit that does not interest you will not increase your interest in the hobby.  It is my opinion that .most ship modeling projects are abandoned when the builder loses interest not because they are too difficult.
 
I likewise, do not see plastic modeling as an entry to building wooden models.  Plastic modeling appears to have reached a level of sophistication where it can stand on its own as a separate modeling experience.  While I don’t personally build plastic models, I enjoy scanning the threads posted for both ship and aircraft plastic models.  Much of the work is incredible.
 
Another entry point would be the series of kits developed and sold directly by the Nautical Research Guild.  So far they offer three modeling kits:  A planking model, A capstan model, and coming soon a rigging model.  These are short term projects that would give the novice builder a taste for ship modeling without a making a major time or cost commitment.
 
Roger

in reading MSW build logs for kit built models I find that builders often get concerned with details.  This seems to be especially true with rigging.  Almost never does the builder seem to be concerned with what should be the question to be asked before buying the kit in the first place:
 
”If I build this kit will it accurately reproduce the lines (shape) of the actual vessel’s hull?”
 
In the past, some kit manufacturers were, putting it politely, “casual” concerning this.  This could be particularly true of Clippers as overlooked subtle differences between different vessels could still allow models of different ships to both look impressive. There was also a tendency by manufacturers to save money by widely spacing bulkheads, supposedly solved by the ubiquitous double planking.
 
The manufacturers of POB ship model kits seem to have upped their game in the past few years and several offer kits that can produce accurate and stunning models.  I would, therefore, be cautious about buying an old kit.  
 
Many kit builders also have a stash of kits that they intend to build someday. These stashes can represent many lifetimes of ship model building.  My stash is not ship model kits but books. I have shelves of books for researching projects that I was once excited about building but now realize won’t get built.
 
My advice to you: Finish the project(s) that you are now working on, and take satisfaction on jobs well done.  Then decide what you want to build based on skills and interests at that time.  Meanwhile save your £100.
 
Roger

in reading MSW build logs for kit built models I find that builders often get concerned with details.  This seems to be especially true with rigging.  Almost never does the builder seem to be concerned with what should be the question to be asked before buying the kit in the first place:
 
”If I build this kit will it accurately reproduce the lines (shape) of the actual vessel’s hull?”
 
In the past, some kit manufacturers were, putting it politely, “casual” concerning this.  This could be particularly true of Clippers as overlooked subtle differences between different vessels could still allow models of different ships to both look impressive. There was also a tendency by manufacturers to save money by widely spacing bulkheads, supposedly solved by the ubiquitous double planking.
 
The manufacturers of POB ship model kits seem to have upped their game in the past few years and several offer kits that can produce accurate and stunning models.  I would, therefore, be cautious about buying an old kit.  
 
Many kit builders also have a stash of kits that they intend to build someday. These stashes can represent many lifetimes of ship model building.  My stash is not ship model kits but books. I have shelves of books for researching projects that I was once excited about building but now realize won’t get built.
 
My advice to you: Finish the project(s) that you are now working on, and take satisfaction on jobs well done.  Then decide what you want to build based on skills and interests at that time.  Meanwhile save your £100.
 
Roger

in reading MSW build logs for kit built models I find that builders often get concerned with details.  This seems to be especially true with rigging.  Almost never does the builder seem to be concerned with what should be the question to be asked before buying the kit in the first place:
 
”If I build this kit will it accurately reproduce the lines (shape) of the actual vessel’s hull?”
 
In the past, some kit manufacturers were, putting it politely, “casual” concerning this.  This could be particularly true of Clippers as overlooked subtle differences between different vessels could still allow models of different ships to both look impressive. There was also a tendency by manufacturers to save money by widely spacing bulkheads, supposedly solved by the ubiquitous double planking.
 
The manufacturers of POB ship model kits seem to have upped their game in the past few years and several offer kits that can produce accurate and stunning models.  I would, therefore, be cautious about buying an old kit.  
 
Many kit builders also have a stash of kits that they intend to build someday. These stashes can represent many lifetimes of ship model building.  My stash is not ship model kits but books. I have shelves of books for researching projects that I was once excited about building but now realize won’t get built.
 
My advice to you: Finish the project(s) that you are now working on, and take satisfaction on jobs well done.  Then decide what you want to build based on skills and interests at that time.  Meanwhile save your £100.
 
Roger

in reading MSW build logs for kit built models I find that builders often get concerned with details.  This seems to be especially true with rigging.  Almost never does the builder seem to be concerned with what should be the question to be asked before buying the kit in the first place:
 
”If I build this kit will it accurately reproduce the lines (shape) of the actual vessel’s hull?”
 
In the past, some kit manufacturers were, putting it politely, “casual” concerning this.  This could be particularly true of Clippers as overlooked subtle differences between different vessels could still allow models of different ships to both look impressive. There was also a tendency by manufacturers to save money by widely spacing bulkheads, supposedly solved by the ubiquitous double planking.
 
The manufacturers of POB ship model kits seem to have upped their game in the past few years and several offer kits that can produce accurate and stunning models.  I would, therefore, be cautious about buying an old kit.  
 
Many kit builders also have a stash of kits that they intend to build someday. These stashes can represent many lifetimes of ship model building.  My stash is not ship model kits but books. I have shelves of books for researching projects that I was once excited about building but now realize won’t get built.
 
My advice to you: Finish the project(s) that you are now working on, and take satisfaction on jobs well done.  Then decide what you want to build based on skills and interests at that time.  Meanwhile save your £100.
 
Roger

in reading MSW build logs for kit built models I find that builders often get concerned with details.  This seems to be especially true with rigging.  Almost never does the builder seem to be concerned with what should be the question to be asked before buying the kit in the first place:
 
”If I build this kit will it accurately reproduce the lines (shape) of the actual vessel’s hull?”
 
In the past, some kit manufacturers were, putting it politely, “casual” concerning this.  This could be particularly true of Clippers as overlooked subtle differences between different vessels could still allow models of different ships to both look impressive. There was also a tendency by manufacturers to save money by widely spacing bulkheads, supposedly solved by the ubiquitous double planking.
 
The manufacturers of POB ship model kits seem to have upped their game in the past few years and several offer kits that can produce accurate and stunning models.  I would, therefore, be cautious about buying an old kit.  
 
Many kit builders also have a stash of kits that they intend to build someday. These stashes can represent many lifetimes of ship model building.  My stash is not ship model kits but books. I have shelves of books for researching projects that I was once excited about building but now realize won’t get built.
 
My advice to you: Finish the project(s) that you are now working on, and take satisfaction on jobs well done.  Then decide what you want to build based on skills and interests at that time.  Meanwhile save your £100.
 
Roger

peace 😉
This is a long term project.
Nothing thoughtless is done before moving on.
But every now and then you will see something like this 
Then there is removal and rebuilding😉

Some photos showing the hull with outer stem & keel glued on. Also some initial shaping of the stem piece. Interesting how the parallel planks give some optical illusions, as the ones closest to the keel have their rocker upside down. Some photos are almost unusable from this effect.
 
The aft part of the hull & keel are smoothly faired. The front section of the keel meets the hull at a crease rather than a faired shape. You can see this in the hull photo from Vanity, below. At this stage I don't know for sure if I will need to use any filler or not, in the keel/hull area.

 

Our local Solid Waste Disposal Site, aka “The Dump” has a large section where visitors can take away items thrown away by others.  The stuff is free.  They have one entire building full of furniture.   Next time I go there I’ll have to see if I can find any mahogany.  It’s probably all veneer but Duluth does have a large number of old very large homes, once residences to wealthy families, so maybe I’ll strike gold.
 
Roger

Some different advice:
 
Assuming that you have access to a basic collection of hand tools and know how to use them, your first model should be the one that you really want to build; kit or scratch it really doesn’t matter.  Plodding thru a beginner kit that does not interest you will not increase your interest in the hobby.  It is my opinion that .most ship modeling projects are abandoned when the builder loses interest not because they are too difficult.
 
I likewise, do not see plastic modeling as an entry to building wooden models.  Plastic modeling appears to have reached a level of sophistication where it can stand on its own as a separate modeling experience.  While I don’t personally build plastic models, I enjoy scanning the threads posted for both ship and aircraft plastic models.  Much of the work is incredible.
 
Another entry point would be the series of kits developed and sold directly by the Nautical Research Guild.  So far they offer three modeling kits:  A planking model, A capstan model, and coming soon a rigging model.  These are short term projects that would give the novice builder a taste for ship modeling without a making a major time or cost commitment.
 
Roger

Some different advice:
 
Assuming that you have access to a basic collection of hand tools and know how to use them, your first model should be the one that you really want to build; kit or scratch it really doesn’t matter.  Plodding thru a beginner kit that does not interest you will not increase your interest in the hobby.  It is my opinion that .most ship modeling projects are abandoned when the builder loses interest not because they are too difficult.
 
I likewise, do not see plastic modeling as an entry to building wooden models.  Plastic modeling appears to have reached a level of sophistication where it can stand on its own as a separate modeling experience.  While I don’t personally build plastic models, I enjoy scanning the threads posted for both ship and aircraft plastic models.  Much of the work is incredible.
 
Another entry point would be the series of kits developed and sold directly by the Nautical Research Guild.  So far they offer three modeling kits:  A planking model, A capstan model, and coming soon a rigging model.  These are short term projects that would give the novice builder a taste for ship modeling without a making a major time or cost commitment.
 
Roger

This is my next project and my last.

Good on them for promoting recycling. Our local dump does not allow you to pick up anything someone else left, for some reason.

Our local Solid Waste Disposal Site, aka “The Dump” has a large section where visitors can take away items thrown away by others.  The stuff is free.  They have one entire building full of furniture.   Next time I go there I’ll have to see if I can find any mahogany.  It’s probably all veneer but Duluth does have a large number of old very large homes, once residences to wealthy families, so maybe I’ll strike gold.
 
Roger

Our local Solid Waste Disposal Site, aka “The Dump” has a large section where visitors can take away items thrown away by others.  The stuff is free.  They have one entire building full of furniture.   Next time I go there I’ll have to see if I can find any mahogany.  It’s probably all veneer but Duluth does have a large number of old very large homes, once residences to wealthy families, so maybe I’ll strike gold.
 
Roger

I've put quite a bit of study into guns of this period, and you're certainly on the right track. You might be interested in this gun  from the Genoese ship La Lomellina which sank in 1516 (which I believe was probably built in 1503).

And this picture which I believe shows the Lomellina's predecessor, which sank in 1503, as it is flying the flag of the Lomellini family, and which has some interesting cannons.

 
Steven