Roger Pellett

I have a Rockler thin rip jig that I use with my 10in table saw.  It works great as by using it you don't have to pinch the wood between the fence and the saw.  There is also a U tube video of a guy using one of these to rip paper thin strips with a bandsaw.
 
Roger
 
 

I have a Rockler thin rip jig that I use with my 10in table saw.  It works great as by using it you don't have to pinch the wood between the fence and the saw.  There is also a U tube video of a guy using one of these to rip paper thin strips with a bandsaw.
 
Roger
 
 

Some updates ...

The deck planking is installed and scraped.  It gets another coat or two of stain.  I'll see how I like the mottled look as I move along.  The finish is quite different on boards that were scraped vs. those just sanded. 
A lot of masking to do to prevent bleeding into beams or bitts, etc. before I apply any more stain.


Maury
 

Your skill with that angle grinder is impressive!
 
Roger
 

Your skill with that angle grinder is impressive!
 
Roger
 

Thwart Knee Fillers
 
The build guide and plans differ a little in the curving of the knee filler pieces. The guide shows a wider curve ending at the wales while the plans show a tighter curve blending to an almost vertical section up to the wales. I chose to mimic the plans version using some 1/16" castello boxwood with the grain running parallel to the thwart. The boxwood is much more robust than the basswood especially at the point where it meets the thwart. The maple knee strips were bent separately in a jig then glued together approximating the shape of the filler pieces.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 

 
The thwart pads are straightforward although the the photos of the Delano boats show that the padded knees are not as tapered toward the center line as the un-padded knees.
 

Comments or questions always welcomed,
Mike
 

I own three table saws, a Preac, Byrnes, and a 10in Delta. I use all three.  I use the 10in for heavy duty ripping from billets that I harvested myself. The Byrnes is used,to rip, material 1/4 in and thinner, and the Preac is especially useful for cutting small grooves for applications like making blocks. 
 
Roger

It may be worthwhile to reflect on the function of the (topping-)lifts. They are there to steady the yard, not to 'lift' the yard, which is done with the halliard. So, when the topsail(s) is/are set, there is no immediate need for the lifts, as the yard is also stabilised by the braces. One can probably let go the lift(s) when close-hauled and the problem is solved.

Part 7 – Frames


 
 
The HAER documentation says that Kathryn’s frames are ‘highly irregular’, rather than giving dimensions.  After measuring the frames in several of the drawings I decided to use a sided dimension of 4” and a moulded dimension starting at 5” at the sheer and increasing to 8” for most frames.  This makes the frames of the model 1/8” thick, and varying from just over 1/8” to ¼” in the moulded dimension.  All frames are single frames, so on the model they will be quite fragile until supported by the interior and exterior planking and other components.
 
 
Since Kathryn’s sides and bottom are flat, there are no curves to contend with in the frames – other than the rounded chine.  The following is the drawing for frame 12 – the forward-most square frame:
 
 

 
Pin-indexing is used to ensure the pieces of the frame line up with the drawing.  EdT in his Young America build log gives a good description of pin-indexing, and I also included it in my Dunbrody build log, so I won’t go into a lot of detail here.
 
Individual frame pieces as well as the pinning template for the frame are marked using a prick punch
 
 

 
And are then drilled using the Sensitive Drilling Attachment on the milling machine.
 
 

 
The frame pieces are then trimmed to the printed lines using the disk sander.
 
 

 
The frames will be very delicate, and there won’t be much glue surface keeping the frame components together or keeping them attached to the keelson, so some additional reinforcing is required.  The frames will eventually be secured to the keelson with structural bolts, and the joint of the frame pieces will be reinforced by dowels, so pilot holes need to be drilled.  The holes for the structural bolts are at an approximate 45 degree angle, so these holes need to be started with a center drill as shown in the following photo.
 
 

 
The pilot holes are then drilled in the frame components.
 
 

 
The drill used for pin indexing is a #63 drill, and the best approach is to use the sensitive drilling attachment for this drilling.  However, the drill used for pilot holes for the reinforcing bolts and dowels is a #55, and the best approach for this drilling is to use the z-axis hand-wheel to get sufficient force in the drilling.  This would normally mean constant changing of drills and chucks, but I’m fortunate to have another solution in my shop.
 
 
I’ve tried miniature drill presses, but have not been happy with the ‘less expensive’ options (less expensive until an x-y table is added).  Recently, Sherline offered a discount on the milling column for the lathe.  This attachment serves very nicely as a second drilling station (or mill if necessary), so I now have the sensitive drilling attachment with the #63 drill in the milling machine, and a chuck with a #55 drill in the milling column on the lathe and have no need to change drills or chucks in the middle of the process.
 
 

 
Constructing the frame consists of aligning the pieces by laying the bottom piece on top of the side piece (using the pins for alignment)
 
 

 
Then using a hobby knife to mark the joint on the side piece of the frame.
 
 

 
After the side piece is trimmed to fit using the disk sander, the pieces are then glued in place and left to cure.
 
 

 
When the gluing is completed, the hole for the reinforcing dowel is drilled into the side piece of the frame.
 
 

 
The dowel is glued into the frame and clipped off.
 
 

 
Since the frames are mortised into the keelson on each side, aligning the frame on the keelson requires that each side is aligned separately to allow for possible mis-alignment of the mortises.  A jig is used for this purpose.  This is the same jig that was used to align the Dunbrody frames.
 
 

 
In addition to the jig, a template for the frame, consisting of the frame drawing cemented onto a flat piece of 1/16” thick basswood, is clamped to the framing jig and aligned with the centerline.
 
 

 

 
 
The frame piece is clamped to the framing template while the glue attaching the frame half to the keelson cures.
 
 

 
 
The same process is followed for the opposite side of the frame.  The following photo shows the first frame (#12) installed.  Only 25 frames to go.
 
 

 
One last item:  I wanted a modeling setup that would allow me to work on all sides of the build without turning the shipway.  It would also be ideal if I could raise or lower the model depending on what was being worked on at the time.  I was able to find an adjustable table in IKEA – known as a Skarsta sit/stand table.  Using a simple hand crank, the table extends from a minimum height of 27.5”
 
 

 
to a maximum height of 47.25”
 
 

 
 
My old back is very grateful for the working height!!
 
 

 
 
Thanks everyone (and thank you IKEA!)!

Keep in mind that more sail does not necessarily mean more speed.  Displacement hulls (hulls unable to plane) cannot travel at a speed much faster than the square root of their waterline length.  At this "hull speed" the hull is bounded by the waves that it creates.  Adding more sail then only increases the heeling of the vessel which does bad things- often increases weather helm and increases leeway.  
The Duluth Community Sailing Association used to own a nice 32 ft ketch.  The boat's mainsail was large and very full cut.  We soon learned that in any sort of breeze the boat would reach hull speed with just the jib and mizzen.  Setting the large bag of a mainsail only put the lee rail under.  Fun but not efficient sailing.  Usual rig was just jib and mizzen except in light air.
Roger

I have moved ahead with the subdeck. I wanted to install this prior to finishing the sanding of the outer hull so I could have a little more rigidity while I complete the hull fairing. First I cut and fitted the paper template and then used the template to make and fit the actual subdeck. Once the subdeck is glued in place, I can proceed with hull fairing and then planking. Here are the photos.
 
Russ

I spent today making a start on the fairleads. The forward fairleads are fairly standard while the rear fairleads have 3 rollers each.
 The fairleads are .875" long x .120" wide by .160" high. I made them from bar which was first machined to .875" wide by .160" thick using a fly cutter.
 

The profile of the fairleads were first formed from a series of holes drilled along the length of the bar and then connected by a .080 diameter end mill. The fairleads were then cut from the bar using a slitting saw.
 

Just to be a bit confusing the dimensions were worked out in millimetres.
The corners were then cut off to give the finished shape (the top has still to be cut)
 

Mounting holes and holes for the rollers were then drilled.
 

 

Beautiful work.  This project proves that a model of even the most humble vessel if we'll built can be stunning and yours is.
 
Roger

Update
Build log part 54
 
railing has been added to the mid ship platform, and funnel 3 + 4 understructures have the lights fitted. Also all vents and gratings fitted.
The upper platform is supported from the lower deck at both outer sides. These supports fit between two davits in order to enable their swing function...
 
Nils
 

foreground (bottom, left) are the boats winches
 

The command bridge area now requires some attention
 

I`m pleased with the progress, its not so very far more to go...
 

the model is comprising 86 vents in different sizes
 

must be thousands of "rivets" holding the plates together...
 

one of the deck-crew taking a rest on the aft anchorchain gear
 

deck curvature can be noticed here...
 

I own three table saws, a Preac, Byrnes, and a 10in Delta. I use all three.  I use the 10in for heavy duty ripping from billets that I harvested myself. The Byrnes is used,to rip, material 1/4 in and thinner, and the Preac is especially useful for cutting small grooves for applications like making blocks. 
 
Roger

Thank you all for your constructive and complementary comments, and for the visits.
 
The Saga continues.
I finished cutting out the parts for the new Davit. The 8x32 thumbscrews make it much easier on my fingers Allows me to concentrate more on following the line than being a human clamp.
 

 

 
All the parts cut and cleaned up.
 

 
And dry assembled I turned down the shaft from some 3/16 which allowed me to start at the small end which is .025" then the long part is .038" and the handle end .081" while it was still part of the 3/16 shaft i drilled the cross hole in the same way as for the sliding collar that moves the davit forward.
The picture shows the hole being drilled in the collar which was shaped afterwards in the pin vise with some #4 flat files.
 
 
 
 

 
The main frame side parts were annealed before folding, I needed to keep reminding myself that these parts were handed a left and a right (made that type of mistake too many times to count.)
 
Set them up in the new clamps in the third hand I am liking the difference between the two types the parallel one holding the side and the single screw one holding the centre plate, it takes a while sometimes to do the set up but I cannot imaging going back to the old unit with the crocodile clips
 

 
Used the Duz-all flux and a tiny flake of solder the hot air soldering gun and away she went. the next picture shows the other end after it was soldered.
 
 
 
After cleaning it up in some hot vinegar and baking soda with a toothbrush A coat of Modelmaster black enamel.
 
Michael
 

I thought I should update even though I am banned from the workshop until the decoration of the lounge and dining room is finished. Optimistically this is scheduled for a week today. In the meantime I took time out to order an Excalibur 21 inch throat scroll saw. I need a plan for broaching this with my wife before the delivery van arrives. Oh hum!
 
Keith,
Lesson 1. Intercept said package (priority) if the boss gets it first your cooked. #2 Do not do not buy flowers, take out to dinner, or do anything out of character the boss will ask what have you done. #3 Do not hide said package, trust me the boss will find it by accident. Do not have a friend buy it with cash you rat holed and say look what I bought on EBAY at a 1/3 of what it cost. Always ask the boss first or do what I do buy something of equal value dependent on equal cost saw cost # 1,500? buy a piece of jewelry equal price before you buy the saw then the boss will acquiesce. Lessons from 48 yrs of marriage. 
Your skill with metalwork is awe inspiring I bet that lathe sings when you work it!
 
 

The inner bulwarks are done.
 
 

 
The partners are not yet glued in place.
 


 
I've faired the tops of the inner and outer bulwarks for the main rail.  Not sure whether I put in the deck planking before the rails.  The bow and transom have arched rails so some serious bending is yet to be done.
Maury
 

The name Mahogany, at least here in the US, is used for several different tropical hardwoods. Some if the stuff is pretty poor, stringy and course grained. I believe that the real stuff is Honduras Mahogany, very difficult to find today. Mahogany salvaged from old furniture is therefore like gold.
 
Roger

Kieth, A great project beautifully executed! Your deck structures are particularly impressive. For many years I have been thinking of building a 1:32 scale model of a Royal Navy Steam Pinnace. The bright finished cabin aft presents a particular challenge but your deck structures are an inspiration. I have several chunks of Mahogany salvaged from an old chair. It is at least 75 years old, tight grain and deep colored that I have been thinking of using for this purpose despite model building book advice that Mahogany is not a good choice. Your work proves the exception to the rule.
 
Roger

Six or seven years ago, my wife and I were visiting Stockholm, and I saw this ship along the pier with steam up.  I walked up the gangway and told them that I volunteered for an organization in the US working to preserve an historic steamship (the SS Meteor) and that I would like to see their engine room.  They said OK.
 
The power plant is a thing from the past- coal burning boiler hand fired, reciprocating engine with auxiliaries driven from the crosshead.  I don't remember which it was, a compound or a triple.
 
Unfortunately, she was booked for a private party so we could not take a cruise.  She is very elegant with lots of polished brass and varnished brightwork and should make a handsome model.
 
There is a whole fleet of these but almost all have been converted to diesel.
Roger
 
P.S.  I believe that she has an iron or steel hull.o

Ken, thanks for posting the pictures. Glad to hear that you have power. Fingers crossed for second wave!
 
Roger

Ken, Thanks for the info. I hope you get your power back soon. Evening news showed California Coast, being hit hard.
 
Roger

Nice Work! I'm curious though. Do they still "fish" for abalone? If so, how does it differ from the scene that you portray? Doesn't the diver need some sort of tool to pry the abalone from a rock or does he just pick them up?
 
Again, a beautiful job.
 
Roger