Roger Pellett

Mike,
 
I looked at Chapelle's History of the American Sailing Navy and History of American Sailing Ships as well as Coffins of the Brave to see what I could find. The US Navy did build several two masted lateen rigged "row galleys" in the very late 1700's and early 1800's. Some of these fought in the war of 1812, on the Chesapeake and on Lake Champaign. Gunboats also fought on Lake Ponchatrain but I don't know which design. As noted above the galley Allen was excavated on Lake Champlain and another on the Chesapeake near Badensberg, MD. An archeology report for the MD gunboat is available on the Internet.
 
I could find no design (Chapelle) or archeology report that represents the model that you are building. The long head and protruding stern platform are anachronisms. The American gunboats were double ended.
 
It would appear that the kit manufacturer either copied a Mediterranean design or imagined one and called it an American gunboat for marketing purposes.
 
Roger

Mike,
 
I looked at Chapelle's History of the American Sailing Navy and History of American Sailing Ships as well as Coffins of the Brave to see what I could find. The US Navy did build several two masted lateen rigged "row galleys" in the very late 1700's and early 1800's. Some of these fought in the war of 1812, on the Chesapeake and on Lake Champaign. Gunboats also fought on Lake Ponchatrain but I don't know which design. As noted above the galley Allen was excavated on Lake Champlain and another on the Chesapeake near Badensberg, MD. An archeology report for the MD gunboat is available on the Internet.
 
I could find no design (Chapelle) or archeology report that represents the model that you are building. The long head and protruding stern platform are anachronisms. The American gunboats were double ended.
 
It would appear that the kit manufacturer either copied a Mediterranean design or imagined one and called it an American gunboat for marketing purposes.
 
Roger

Mike,
 
I looked at Chapelle's History of the American Sailing Navy and History of American Sailing Ships as well as Coffins of the Brave to see what I could find. The US Navy did build several two masted lateen rigged "row galleys" in the very late 1700's and early 1800's. Some of these fought in the war of 1812, on the Chesapeake and on Lake Champaign. Gunboats also fought on Lake Ponchatrain but I don't know which design. As noted above the galley Allen was excavated on Lake Champlain and another on the Chesapeake near Badensberg, MD. An archeology report for the MD gunboat is available on the Internet.
 
I could find no design (Chapelle) or archeology report that represents the model that you are building. The long head and protruding stern platform are anachronisms. The American gunboats were double ended.
 
It would appear that the kit manufacturer either copied a Mediterranean design or imagined one and called it an American gunboat for marketing purposes.
 
Roger

Latest attempt at a hooked scarf.  Long legs are parallel and the short notches are perpendicular to the long legs.  This is before being glued, which tightens up the joint even more.
 

 
Much better this time.
Maury

Some years ago I built a chebec. Before I started with the project I made a long study of those beautiful ships. I used the drawings in the book;'" Die chebecke und andere schiffstypen des Mittelmeerraumes" written by Wolfram Mondfeld. I used the drawings in the book only as a basis and I soon discovered that I had to solve many mystery.
The drawings which are available are often not correct. Practically every drawing is copied from the few things that are known and these were in some cases fantasy.
One of the main things is the aft deck of the ship. It is Always depicted as one very large grating. Technically this is impossible on the real ship. The structure will be very weak and has to be supported by al lot of thick beams. Especially when you think that the openings in the gratings may not be larger than 7,5 x 7,5 cm, otherwise the sailors will break their legs.
In the 19th century a few men measured the last remainig chebecs. One of them was Frederik Henrik Af Chapman. He published his drawings in "Architectura Navalis Mercatoria". Under the nrs17 and 18 in his book you can find the results. The deck I mean is totally different. Only a few gratings are drawn. In the sience museum in London exists a model built according his drawings. The hull is correct. Unfortunally Chapman never gave details about masts, rigging and sails. On the London model these things are not as it has to be.
Generally spoken there are two types of chebecs. The first was used by the Barbarian raiders, and was directly derived from the galley. The second was the chebec which was derived from the first and was built by the French. You are building a second type. In London stands an example of the first type.
I built the first type as you can see on my website www.constntwillem.nl
There is a lot more to tell about this magnificent ship. I wrote down the results of my study. I can see that you live in Germany and maybe you can read my study which is in the Dutch language. If you are intersted I can sent you a copy.
I am fully aware of the fact that I have not solved every mystery. I may be totally wrong on some aspects and I stand open for every comment.  But I like to help everyone who is intending to built this ship, which is a beauty.
Constant

Bob, I used the microwav to bend a piece of 1/8 x 2/16in pear the other day. It worked fine. I also have a wooden steam box powered by a "Wagner Power (wallpaper) Steamer) that I built for steaming canoe ribs and planking but it is a hassle to set it up for a little model part.
 
By the way, if you can build a model like YA the way you are doing it, you don't need to lie about your golf game!
 
Roger

Bob, I used the microwav to bend a piece of 1/8 x 2/16in pear the other day. It worked fine. I also have a wooden steam box powered by a "Wagner Power (wallpaper) Steamer) that I built for steaming canoe ribs and planking but it is a hassle to set it up for a little model part.
 
By the way, if you can build a model like YA the way you are doing it, you don't need to lie about your golf game!
 
Roger

I have two types of proportional dividers.
The one shown below is a lot more accurate than my mechanical type and faster too.

Bob, Rather than messing with a steam box get a plastic or glass pan of water, soak your wood in it and then nuke it, wood, pan, and water in your microwave. Cook it long enough to full boil for several minutes. Works great!
 
Roger

Don't forget that ships do not necessarily sail at their designed water lines. Warships may leave port deeply laden but during their cruise they use up provisions, possibly ammunition, and their fresh water supply is constantly changing. Trim also changes as stores and ammunition are moved about and the Captain may decide to shift armament about, to change the rake of the masts or to deliberately change trim by shifting ballast.
 
Merchant vessels may carry cargos of different densities- such as coal outbound and grain home. Whaling ships would change trim as knocked down barrels were assembled and filled with oil.
 
It is therefore reasonable to assume that different areas of the copper sheathing would look quite different, with the belt above water the typical green verdigris and that submerged brown. The action of water at the bow would differ from that at the stern, affecting the finish of the copper differently but I don't know how.
 
I agree with Frankie that a too literal reproduction of details such as nails does not look realistic. A more impressionistic treatment looks better.
 
A number of years ago builder Rob Napier publishedd an article in then NRJ regarding the colors on the yacht Northern Light. He used paint ovrer the copper sheathing at the waterline to give it a weathered look. I believe that it is number 36. Look it up on their web site.
 
Roger

I am interested in purchasing a book published by Ancre Publications. The recently published book does not appear to be available from any of my usual US sources (Amazon, Alibris, etc.). I realize that Ancre is a reputable company but I have no experience with buying books from foreign sources and from them in particular.
 
Can anyone who has purchased books from them offer me any advice? Do they have a US dealer that either stocks their books or who can order from them?
 
Roger

They're like any other tool. It depend what you are doing and what tools and methods you "like." If you buy plans of the same scale of the model and if you are convinced that the plans are accurate, then you will not need them.
 
If you redraw plans from archival materials then they might be useful, although more accurate methods exist such as using a pair of regular dividers to determine a measurement on the drawing's graphic scale, then using an architect's scale to plot the dimension on the new drawing or part. This system is preferable because drawing distortion is often not uniform. If you are redrawing a drawing without a graphic scale then proportional dividers are more useful.
 
Roger

Bob, Rather than messing with a steam box get a plastic or glass pan of water, soak your wood in it and then nuke it, wood, pan, and water in your microwave. Cook it long enough to full boil for several minutes. Works great!
 
Roger

Thanks everyone. The hand surgery went well. Now I just have to be patient to let heal. I appreciate everyone's thoughts. The good news is I should have full use of the hand which I have not had for awhile. Luckily, this is my left hand and I am righty!

I've had a pair for many, many years.  I use mine mainly for planking. Simply set the proportion to the number of planks remaining in a planking section and measure the width of the plank at each frame directly off the hull.
 
John

Bob, Rather than messing with a steam box get a plastic or glass pan of water, soak your wood in it and then nuke it, wood, pan, and water in your microwave. Cook it long enough to full boil for several minutes. Works great!
 
Roger

They're like any other tool. It depend what you are doing and what tools and methods you "like." If you buy plans of the same scale of the model and if you are convinced that the plans are accurate, then you will not need them.
 
If you redraw plans from archival materials then they might be useful, although more accurate methods exist such as using a pair of regular dividers to determine a measurement on the drawing's graphic scale, then using an architect's scale to plot the dimension on the new drawing or part. This system is preferable because drawing distortion is often not uniform. If you are redrawing a drawing without a graphic scale then proportional dividers are more useful.
 
Roger

Thank you all for your kind comments and likes
 
Following John's (Jim Lad) suggestion I mounted a sheave at the head of the bowsprit.
I then finish off the other detail using bits of brass wire, tube and turned bar.
 


 
I also made and fitted the reinforcing plates at the top of the hawsepipes.
 


 
The mahogany for the bowsprit is light in colour and my best effort in correcting this involved 2 coats of Georgian Mahogany stain followed by 2 coats of Walnut. Not quite dark enough yet though!!!!
 
 
 
 
 

No, I don't have a build log. I began the model before I joined the forum and at the moment the model looks pretty rough. I will try to post some material.
 
Many years ago, the company that I worked for was working on a joint bid with a Spanish company to supply piping assemblies for a power plant in Spain. The drawings were of course easy to understand but the specifications which of course we're in Spanish were not. We hired a translator from a local College to provide a translation but his results were unintelligible because he did not understand the engineering terms. I eventually found out that I could figure out what was going on by relating Spanish terms to the technology that I understood. For example it is easy to make the connection between "vapour" and "steam". I suspect that the same would be true for Ancre's books only available in French. Fortunately, my book is available in English and I was greeted this morning with an email asking which version that I wanted.
 
Roger

No, I don't have a build log. I began the model before I joined the forum and at the moment the model looks pretty rough. I will try to post some material.
 
Many years ago, the company that I worked for was working on a joint bid with a Spanish company to supply piping assemblies for a power plant in Spain. The drawings were of course easy to understand but the specifications which of course we're in Spanish were not. We hired a translator from a local College to provide a translation but his results were unintelligible because he did not understand the engineering terms. I eventually found out that I could figure out what was going on by relating Spanish terms to the technology that I understood. For example it is easy to make the connection between "vapour" and "steam". I suspect that the same would be true for Ancre's books only available in French. Fortunately, my book is available in English and I was greeted this morning with an email asking which version that I wanted.
 
Roger

No, I don't have a build log. I began the model before I joined the forum and at the moment the model looks pretty rough. I will try to post some material.
 
Many years ago, the company that I worked for was working on a joint bid with a Spanish company to supply piping assemblies for a power plant in Spain. The drawings were of course easy to understand but the specifications which of course we're in Spanish were not. We hired a translator from a local College to provide a translation but his results were unintelligible because he did not understand the engineering terms. I eventually found out that I could figure out what was going on by relating Spanish terms to the technology that I understood. For example it is easy to make the connection between "vapour" and "steam". I suspect that the same would be true for Ancre's books only available in French. Fortunately, my book is available in English and I was greeted this morning with an email asking which version that I wanted.
 
Roger

I am interested in purchasing a book published by Ancre Publications. The recently published book does not appear to be available from any of my usual US sources (Amazon, Alibris, etc.). I realize that Ancre is a reputable company but I have no experience with buying books from foreign sources and from them in particular.
 
Can anyone who has purchased books from them offer me any advice? Do they have a US dealer that either stocks their books or who can order from them?
 
Roger

I have bought three of Ancre's books (in English) and one set of plans. Service (to the UK) was prompt and reasonably priced.
Ken

First step for building the Stern was this rail. It will be the base for the counter and the stern. Its a very big rail but it will be the base for the decorations.
 

 
To make this rail in one operation was a little bit complicated. Therefore I have made it in to steps. First the big one, and than the smal decorationrail. 
 

 

 
Cheerio Hartmut

Thanks Guys!
 
The book that I am going to order is "The Ship's Longboat 16980- 1790. For a number of years I have been interested in building series models built to the same scale (1:32)'of warship's boats from different periods. I am well on my way to completing the third boat in the series, a Royal Navy Longboat based on a drawing published in May's warship boat book. Detailed information is hard to find so I was excited to find that Ancre has published this new book.
 
Roger